Which saw for a cut on a 6 foot post?

[Brian Kent]

OK, I psyched myself out. All I need to do is cut off a standing fence post at about the 6 foot mark. Every time I picture doing it I picture injuring myself. So what is the safe tool to use (I know - any of these, if I am careful, but…)

Western cross-cut hand saw.
Japanese pull saw.
Jigsaw with 4" blade.
Circular saw.
Grenade.
Chain saw.

I would not even ask this except I haven't gotten it done for months.

Thanks

[ChrisA Edwards]

Me, I'd use a circular saw, but I'd clamp a straight piece of wood, below the cut, to act as a guide and also support for the saw.

And being only 5'7", I'd be on a step stool or ladder so I'm not reaching more than chest height.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brian, I would use a circular saw with a pice of ply clamped to the post as a guide......Rod

[Tom M King]

If it doesn't have to be pretty, a chainsaw will work fine. I use my lightest weight saw, and cut on the top of the bar so the chips are thrown away from me. You can make a decent cut like this to marked lines, and clean up the edges with a block plane.

For pretty cuts, I use a 10-1/4" circular saw, or 16-5/16" saw if it's a 6x (doubt you would have one of these since you're asking), and a guide that is clamped on with a big C-clamp.

A handsaw will work too, but choose a sharp one with large crosscut teeth.

edited to add: When we're building fences, I use one of these instead of standing on a ladder to lop posts:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-39-1-2-in-x-12-in-x-20-9-16-in-Aluminum-Work-Platform-with-225-lb-Load-Capacity-AP-20/100662616 There are a number of different models, including some with adjustable heights. They're much less tiring, and safer, than standing on any ladder.

I avoid ladders, whenever possible, and especially on uneven ground.

[Mike Kees]

Any of them,however I especially like the grenade choice.:D

[Doug Dawson]

OK, I psyched myself out. All I need to do is cut off a standing fence post at about the 6 foot mark. Every time I picture doing it I picture injuring myself. So what is the safe tool to use (I know - any of these, if I am careful, but…)

Western cross-cut hand saw.
Japanese pull saw.
Jigsaw with 4" blade.
Circular saw.
Grenade.
Chain saw.


Either of the hand saws will do, but because the wood is probably treated, the Japanese saw will be slow, and I find them awkward to use horizontally and produce a perfectly square cut.

If it were me, it would be quick and dirty with a chain saw, from a perch on a the other side of a ladder, wearing chaps of course. That way, if something goes horribly, _horribly_ wrong, the ladder gets mangled, not you. Be careful not to inhale any of that dust, it will mess you up, no matter how you do it. (Wear a dust mask.)

[Jerome Stanek]

just dig a deeper hole

[Bill Carey]

just dig a deeper hole

LOL - thinking outside the post.

I would use a sawzall. Easy peasy. But if you decide a grenade is the way to go, please post a video!

[lowell holmes]

I have a skill saw, table saw, miter, band saw, and hand saws. Unless it is 4x6 or larger, I normally use a handsaw or miter saw.
Long boards do better on saw horses with hand or skill saw. I also have a bayonet saw.
You really need one tool of each kind. I have 9 handsaws, all rust free, good handles and sharp. My Most valuable hand saw is a D12 Disston .

[Dan Baginski]

If it’s a post for a farm type fence then I think a chainsaw would be just fine. If it’s a little more decorative then a circular saw with some straight edges.

If the grenade doesn’t work, maybe a howitzer?

[Matt Day]

Lowell, the fence post is upright.

[lowell holmes]

I would use a handsaw. A circular saw might grab a knot and jump on you.
You might look for a Disston D-7 D-8 or D-12.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+sharpen+and+set+a+hand+saw&oq=how+to+sharpen+and+set+a+handsaw&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.26336j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[Eric Schmid]

Clamp two speed squares below the line you’re cutting and on opposite sides. The off-set is equal to the measurement from the base plate to the far side of the blade, 1 1/2” for a Skilsaw. Have the long end of the speed square on the starting side of each cut. Make the cut half way (or more) from each side. Keep the base plate firm against the post.

If I have more than a few inches of post above the cut I will leave a bit of wood in the center to finish with a handsaw, western style.

I recently discovered the new Skilsaw has rounded corners on the baseplate. If you’re saw won’t rest easily on the thin edge of a speed square use a piece of scrap wood.

If you keep the edge of the saw on the guide and the base firm on the post you’ll be fine.

[Tom M King]

I have about a quarter mile of 4-board to rebuild this Spring. Come help, and you will get plenty of experience.

[roger wiegand]

If it doesn't need a smooth finish then a chain saw. If you cut the top at an angle the water will run off some and they will last longer.

[John Gornall]

My choice for posts - Prazi Beam Cutter

[Bill Dufour]

After the cut is done pour some wood preservative on the top of the post.
Bill D.

[Mike Cutler]

My choice would be, and is, a Sawzaill and the correct blade.
I did 5 new fence posts this way this past summer when the neighbors tree fell through our fence.
I'm assuming that these are just 4x4 pressure treated posts and not some fancy pre-made architectural design posts.

[John Goodin]

The fence builders around here use a chain saw. Personally, I like the sawzall idea which is a good bit lighter and would give a cleaner cut.

[lowell holmes]

A wood worker will take whatever saw he has and go cut it unless he is looking for a reason to buy a new toy.

If that's the case go get one you like and a speed square to mark the cut line.

[Adam Herman]

i would grab the chain saw and do it, without thought.

[Andrew Seemann]

Gee wiz, you woodworkers can't leave the fine woodworking behind at the shop's door:) It's a fence post, not a Hepplewhite highboy.

If there is an outlet nearby then sawzall, if not, then a Swede saw (tubular firewood bow saw).

[Jacob Reverb]

just dig a deeper hole

Or raise the ceiling!

MS660 FTW!

[Mike Cutler]

The fence builders around here use a chain saw. Personally, I like the sawzall idea which is a good bit lighter and would give a cleaner cut.

A chainsaw, while working sideways off a ladder, or holding over your head, should be a big cause for concern. I'm not gonna lie, I've done both on more than one occasion:o, but the sawzall was much easier.

[scott vroom]

I've always made that cut with a circular saw while standing on a secured tall ladder.

[Tom M King]

If it doesn't need a smooth finish then a chain saw. If you cut the top at an angle the water will run off some and they will last longer.

I actually tried that, on alternating posts out of the same bundle. It made absolutely no difference in life. Those were installed in 1980, out of the old PT stuff, and they all need replacing this Spring.

You can make a decently smooth cut with a chainsaw, by cutting on top of the bar, and following a line with a sharp chain. I framed a house like that once while we were delayed with getting power run to the site. That was when I was young, before I owned a generator.

[Dave Cav]

I'll provide the third or fourth vote for a sawzall. If you don't already have one, you can get an adequate one at Harbor Freight for nineteen bucks.

[Doug Dawson]

Gee wiz, you woodworkers can't leave the fine woodworking behind at the shop's door:) It's a fence post, not a Hepplewhite highboy.

If there is an outlet nearby then sawzall, if not, then a Swede saw (tubular firewood bow saw).

Nobody has mentioned the best choice of all. Tie a length of fiber optic cable to the post, grab a beverage, and wait. Take care of it for you.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Given your choices, I'd use a western crosscut handsaw, especially if you have one with 7, 8, or 9 tpi. Fast enough and there's little chance that you'll hurt yourself unless you fall off whatever you're standing on.

[Mike Kees]

Hopefully he has cut that post by now...

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Stephen. It will take all of 10 or 15 minutes.

[Bill Orbine]

Get somebody else to cut the post.

[Rich Engelhardt]

a Swede saw (tubular firewood bow saw).+1 - that's what I've always used for (wet) PT.
On cedar, I use a sawzall.