What 12" Combination Jointer/Planer should I get?

[Tony Shea]

This question may have been asked multiple times here but thought I'd start a new one. I am really looking hard at the 12" combo machines out there and thought I'd ask who has had experience with any of these machines. I have been using handplanes up to this point as a jointer and running everything through my lunchbox planer. I love hand tools but am over flattening everything by hand. I use stock wider than 8" quite often therefore want something larger and would really enjoy the space savings of not having to have a large 12" jointer as well as a planer. I work in my basement so shop space is limited. Getting tools down in the basement is another interesting task that prevents me from getting a long parallelogram jointer. Money is also something I really need to consider, this is just a hobby after all.

So having said that I really like the looks of the Minimax FS30 but is a bit more $ than I'm looking to spend. So I have been looking at the Jet JJP-12. This Jet is straight knives an I'm worried I will regret not getting the HH version. Is the helical head version worth the significant extra cost? Then there are the Grizzly versions. I own the Grizzly 17" Bandsaw and really like this. Are their Jointer/Planer combo machines like the G0634XP? It seems like you get a very nice machine with spiral cutter head for only $3K. This Grizzly is very tempting but I really don't want to be messing around with tables I can't get parallel or any other detrimental feature.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated or at least some advise on how to best spend the $. I'm sure some people on this section of the forum have experience with some of these machines. I usually hang out in the Neanderthal section so don't really see what happens over here. Again I'm sorry if this subject has been beat to death.

[Jamie Buxton]

You'll get plenty of opinions on this one. My own choice was a Hammer A3-31, twenty years ago. For me, it has a good price/performance point. If it walked out in the middle of the night, I'd buy another tomorrow.

You should also use SMC's Search function to find the other zillion threads about this topic.

[Doug Dawson]

This question may have been asked multiple times here but thought I'd start a new one. I am really looking hard at the 12" combo machines out there and thought I'd ask who has had experience with any of these machines. I have been using handplanes up to this point as a jointer and running everything through my lunchbox planer. I love hand tools but am over flattening everything by hand. I use stock wider than 8" quite often therefore want something larger and would really enjoy the space savings of not having to have a large 12" jointer as well as a planer. I work in my basement so shop space is limited. Getting tools down in the basement is another interesting task that prevents me from getting a long parallelogram jointer. Money is also something I really need to consider, this is just a hobby after all.

So having said that I really like the looks of the Minimax FS30 but is a bit more $ than I'm looking to spend. So I have been looking at the Jet JJP-12. This Jet is straight knives an I'm worried I will regret not getting the HH version. Is the helical head version worth the significant extra cost?

No experience with the Jet combo, I have Powermatic separates. But I wouldn't even _consider_ getting a machine that didn't at least have the option of a helical head. I used to do most of my finish jointing/thicknessing by hand, and that has dropped off dramatically, to the point where most of the time I'm just doing finish sanding or scraping. It is absolutely worth it. You must do this. Straight knives are, like, the stone age, man.

Other people can comment on the Jet, which seems to be the leading _affordable_ combo machine, by many accounts.

[Tony Shea]

You'll get plenty of opinions on this one. My own choice was a Hammer A3-31, twenty years ago. For me, it has a good price/performance point. If it walked out in the middle of the night, I'd buy another tomorrow.

You should also use SMC's Search function to find the other zillion threads about this topic.

I have certainly looked at this machine as well. I just can't find a solid source to price this machine out at. Is there a good place in the US to buy a Hammer?

[Bryan Lisowski]

I have certainly looked at this machine as well. I just can't find a solid source to price this machine out at. Is there a good place in the US to buy a Hammer?

You need to order from Felder directly. Once you set up an account you can begin to get accurate pricing. The machines are built to order.

[Chris Fournier]

Minimax has the heaviest castings and a Tersa head suits me just fine. Owned the FS30 and now another Minimax combo. I use a helical head on my shaper and the Tersa on my jointer planer. Don't let the helical head hang you up, it is an option, but not clearly superior to the Tersa in my opinion and practice. None of the Euro equipment will let you down.

[Dan Friedrichs]

The price/performance of the Minimax or Hammer equipment likely represents a significantly better value than the Jet/Grizzly stuff.

For Hammer, at least, they sell direct to customer, so you'd contact one of their sales people if you're interested (Liz Rogers is one: E.Rogers@felderusa.com).

Current pricing on the A3-31 on their website is $4,995 with the helical head, but I know they've recently been on sale for significantly less.

Worth keeping in mind that the euro equipment is well-respected and will likely hold value much better than the Jet/Grizzly stuff.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Hammer A3-31 with Helical Cutter head and large extension table, got mine around September 2018. Delivered was just over $5k delivered.

Very pleased with it to date.

[Frank Martin]

My first one was the Grizzly J/P. I am happy that I no longer own it. I would highly recommed the Minimax version as I have a 5-function Minimax combo that is in a totally different league compared to Grizzly. I have not used Hammer but seems to get very good reviews.

[Jacob Mac]

I have the FS30, and I am underwhelmed. Tables aren't flat and there is zero customer service. Fence isn't all that great either. So I wouldn't get too worried about not getting one.

[Rod Sheridan]

I am on my second Hammer A3-31 and really like it.

Mine has the digital height gauge, love it, set the planer at the dimension I want, no test cuts, no measuring.

I also have a couple of table extensions I share with my J/P.......Regards, Rod

[David M Peters]

I've had the Rikon 25-210H (https://www.rikontools.com/product/25-210h) for a number of years, a variant of the Jet 12" model. For a long time I struggled with keeping it calibrated as the front table stops (adjustable bolts that the table swing down onto) would drift over time. Some blue Loctite appears to have solved that problem as they've stayed put for the last year.

The biggest sin Rikon committed is not including the adjustment arm for the outfeed table. My outfeed table eventually drifted out of position so I ordered Jet parts to add that adjustment handle. A plus for Rikon is they include an outfeed table for the planer

But with that said if you want to spend time woodworking and not futzing with machines I'd just save up and buy the Hammer A3-31.

[Art Mann]

I own the Jet JJP12-HH with the helical head. I had some issues with it initially but those are resolved. I am very satisfied with it and would not spend the extra money on a more expensive machine if I had to do it again. I will say that you should get a helical cutter head regardless of brand. It is well worth it in terms of quietness and the ability to plane highly figured wood without chip out.

[lowell holmes]

I have separate jointer and planer. I see no reason for a combination machine. They both do a good job.

[Matthew Curtis]

I own the Jet JJP12-HH with the helical head. I had some issues with it initially but those are resolved. I am very satisfied with it and would not spend the extra money on a more expensive machine if I had to do it again. I will say that you should get a helical cutter head regardless of brand. It is well worth it in terms of quietness and the ability to plane highly figured wood without chip out.

I agree with Art Mann. A helical head would be a must if I did it again. I have a 12" grizzly with the straight knives. It has done well for me. I have also seen the hammer version a couple of years ago. So much quieter than my grizzly. Probably due to the helical head more than anything. The grizzly switch over is easy and only takes a few seconds. The hammer looked even easier.

[Curt Harms]

I have a Jet JJP-12 with straight knives, bought it before helical heads were available. For me, I'm not sure a helical head would be worth the upgrade, I haven't found a situation where straight knives just didn't get it done but then I tend to work with straight grained domestics. I'm certain that for woods with interlocking grain or figure the helical head is well worth the $$$.

A search will find an old thread about Jet planer bed settings. I don't have the required precision setup equipment but am able to produce edges that can be glued up with reasonable clamping pressure and no gaps. I'm not sure what else I'd need. The only change I did make was to replace the infeed jointer table lock knob with a larger wheel. I do move the table to change cut depth and I found the factory knob too small. The outfeed is only moved when changing knives so I didn't worry about that one.
401719

[hugh lonner]

I bought the Hammer A3/31 with helical head and love it. I have had a couple minor issues (essentially things going out of alignment) over the years, but had really patient great service just calling their 800 number and I was able to fix both issues myself. I would buy it again if I lost it, although thankfully it is hard to misplace something that big.

That said I seriously considered the Jet HH and the FS30 and I'm pretty confident I would have been very happy with either of those if I'd gone that way. I talked to an owner of the Jet before deciding and he loves his.

The one thing that I would not give up is the digital height gauge. It is amazing to be able to plane, flip over to the jointer and then later (seconds, hours, or months later) go back to the same setting with accuracy better than .1mm.

Also I love my helical head, but my impression is that tersa (or equivalent) can be just as good - at least those who have them seem to love them just as much as we love our helicals - I haven't used Tersa so can't compare myself.

You can find the price on Hammer machines on their website (I think it is called the online store) and it seems they go on sale once or twice a year. The sales are pretty substantial. I didn't have any luck negotiating, but I just waited until it went on sale. I picked Hammer over the FS30 because it was quite a bit cheaper on sale. Again I'm sure I would have been happy with either, but I love mine.

[Frank Drackman]

I own the Grizzly G0634XP 12" J/P and love it. The tables were not coplaner when it was delivered and it took me a few days to get it perfect. I would work on it for a bit then walk away to think.

I used an accurate straight edge, feeler gauges, along with a Oneway Multi Gauge. Once set it has stayed in tune for about two years. I previously owned a Mini Max CU 300 Smart that I sold before moving and setting up my current shop so I am familiar with the setup and use of a similar machine.

If my current unit was stolen, I would purchase it again without hesitation.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I had a Dewalt 735 with a Byrd Shelix cutter head and a Jet 6" jointer with a helix head.

I loved both of these tools, but decided I need to upgrade the planer. I was very close to buying a Powermatic 20" with helix head, but am a little tight on shop space.

My Dewalt was alright and for the price it did a good job, but was still very loud in use and was limited in the depth of cut, so multiple passes were the norm to get to my desired thickness. I planed about 700 linear feet of rough sawn 5/4 to about 1.125", which in passes through the planer were equivalent to about 3500ln/ft.

I put my Dewalt and Jet jointer up for sale and they went in two days.

The Hammer A3-31, although it gives up an inch in width in the planning mode, it cuts through wood incredibly and I gained double the width in jointing capacity.

With the helix head, it is so quiet, you can continue a conversation while it's cutting a 10" board.

Whichever model you decide upon, I strongly suggest you go with a helix style cutter head, they are so easy to maintain, quiet in operation and produce a wonderful cut.

[Art Mann]

The 12 inch jointer capacity is the reason I sold my separate jointer and planer and bought the combo machine. No regrets.

[John TenEyck]

My advise is to buy the first used Hammer or MM that comes along at a good price. Let the first owner take the depreciation hit and resolve any quality issues. A friend of mine was looking at an FS-35 recently for $1500, about 20 years old, which would be an excellent deal in my book. Besides paying less than half the price of a new machine you can see it run and check to see if the tables are coplaner, if everything works as it's supposed to, etc. Buying new is no assurance things will be perfect, not by a long shot if you do some due diligence. I bought an FS-35 about 3 years ago and got it down into my basement shop by disassemblying it and carrying down the pieces. If you got a 17" bandsaw into your shop you can get a J/P down there, too. And FWIW, I have straight knives on my machine and don't feel handicapped. A Tersa head would have been great but the one I found had straight knives. Helical head? Sure, but that was clearly out of my price range. And for what I paid for it I had less trouble justifying an upgraded dual drum sander, used of course.

John

[Art Mann]

If I would have waited for the first used Hammer or MM combination machine to come along, I would died of old age before buying one at all. I have watched Craigslist in my area for probably 10 years and I haven't seen one yet. It is unfortunate but true that good used woodworking equipment is not available in all areas.

[Patrick Varley]

If I would have waited for the first used Hammer or MM combination machine to come along, I would died of old age before buying one at all. I have watched Craigslist in my area for probably 10 years and I haven't seen one yet. It is unfortunate but true that good used woodworking equipment is not available in all areas.

Agree. I actually saw a Felder combo J/P on Western PA CL for the first time a few months ago. Doubt I'll ever see it again. If you were really looking 2nd hand, your chances would be better (though perhaps still not great) at auctions. For anyone that lives in the Midwest, I'd say the Air Works Auction would be the best chance to find something second hand. But as the OP lives in Maine, that's not very helpful. There may in fact be something like that in the NE, though and others may know about it.

[David Kumm]

You need to learn how to ship efficiently when you go the used route. Seldom do machines come up next door. The benefit to combo machines are they are often lightly used and depreciate quickly enough so you can get a 700 or 900 for Hammer money. New machines travel across the world to get here and an additional 500-1000 to get a higher end used machine to your door can be built into the price. Dave

[Mike Kees]

I agree with John.I buy all my machines used for the same reasons John stated. I purchased a 16' Paoloni jointer this summer (used) after missing a Minimax 14" combo in a auction. About a month later some guy had a Minimax for sale that had been in storage for 12 years. Win some,lose some. The money saved and knowing what you are getting make up for it though.

[Prashun Patel]

I have the Hammer A3-31 and also recommend it. It's quiet. The fence stays pretty well aligned vertically. The switchover is pretty easy. I haven't had issues with it.

The thing is, when shopping for a bandsaw, I got some advice to get a Minimax when I was considering a Grizzly. I ultimately went with the Grizzly, and am pretty happy with it.

This is to say, I suspect if you get the Jet or Grizzly, you'll be just fine in the end. The difference for me comes whenever i have a minor issue:

When my Hammer squeaks when raising the table, or when it joints slightly concave I think "I screwed up; should have lubed or adjusted it better".
With the Grizzly, when a bearing needs adjustment, I think "Damn, I bet the Minimax wouldn't have this problem."

This is to say, I suspect brand bias may be at play in determining satisfaction with the tool.

You really should try both if you can muster.

[John TenEyck]

If I would have waited for the first used Hammer or MM combination machine to come along, I would died of old age before buying one at all. I have watched Craigslist in my area for probably 10 years and I haven't seen one yet. It is unfortunate but true that good used woodworking equipment is not available in all areas.

The OP is in Maine. Boston isn't far. I had to drive 6 hours each way to get my FS-35 and don't regret it. I had a 16" industrial jointer shipped across two states for a friend. All in he spent about $3.5K for a machine that would cost north of $12K new. Pro and prosumer machines like MM and Hammer J/P's will last for several generations of hobbiest use so there's no worry of wearing out a used one.

Cast a wider net. Machines are out there.
New is nice but used machines offer a far better value if you shop wisely.

John

[Erik Loza]

My 2-cents, accept or reject as you please: If you're going to buy a combined machine, go European. I realize there are some happy owners here of the Asian budget versions but I talked to a number of people back in the day who went the Chaiwanese route and got complete lemons. As in, "Unusable and I don't want another one". The typical mass-produced Asian thing: High sample variation/sketchy QC. Maybe you get a good one... Except it's not a like shoes from Zappos where you just slap the return label on a box. Best of luck with your search.

Erik

[Martin Siebert]

I have a question for the folks that currently own one of these 12" combo machines...what is your honest opinion of how well they will face join a board??? Like 8 foot long??? I ask this because, one, they really seem cost effective, and two, they appear in the photo ads I have seen to have a somewhat short looking table length. My next machine will be a big 12 inch jointer. I have pretty long tables on the PM jointer I have now and I like the way I can fairly easily get a board flat and square. I feel like I wouldn't necessarily want to go with a machine that has shorter tables on it for this reason. Am I wrong for thinking this way??? I am interested in face jointing and have a big 20" PM planer and a 735, so I would never use the planing option. I ask this because there sure don't seem to be many big jointers for sale, at least not in my neck of the woods....Thanks in advance for any info.

[Derek Cohen]

Martin, what you ask is complicated by you already owning a 20" planer. I have the Hammer A3-31, which I purchased as it was a cost-effective way for me to get a 12" jointer. The longest boards I joint are probably 6-7'. Most of what I joint is in the 3-4' range. The furniture I build is mid-size. I have never felt that the length of the tables compromises what I build. I have had rough sawn boards of 8-10', but simply never work on them at this length. Sawing them shorter (as needed), and jointer shorter lengths is less wasteful (the desired thickness is reached with less waste). In your case I would either sell the planer and get a combo, or just get a separate jointer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Martin, I have a Hammer A3-31.

The longest boards I typically joint are about 6 feet long. I do have extension tables however I don't normally use them except on the planer outfeed (at 6 metres/minute feed small pieces were falling on the floor before I caught them).

The longest piece I've jointed has been a bed rail, I did use the extensions, short one on the infeed, long one on the outfeed.................Regards, Rod.

[Ray Rodriguez]

I've owned the Grizzly J/P combo unit for about 1.5 years now and am pretty happy with it. The Hammer units from what I've seen look very nice and the fact that you don't have to remove the fence in order to convert from jointer to planer seems like a great feature. As with all things Grizzly you tend to get a bit more than you pay for BUT there is always the chance you receive a machine that isn't up to spec and/or needs a ton of adjustment to be usable.

[Erik Loza]

I have a question for the folks that currently own one of these 12" combo machines...what is your honest opinion of how well they will face join a board??? Like 8 foot long??? I ask this because, one, they really seem cost effective, and two, they appear in the photo ads I have seen to have a somewhat short looking table length. My next machine will be a big 12 inch jointer. I have pretty long tables on the PM jointer I have now and I like the way I can fairly easily get a board flat and square. I feel like I wouldn't necessarily want to go with a machine that has shorter tables on it for this reason...

It sounds like you answered your own question. In my experience, it’s a matter of expectations. If your expectation is to be able to use a 12” J/P just as easily as a stand-alone longbed jointer, then you will probably be disappointed. If your expectation is to have a compact, somewhat mobile machine that takes the place of two and frees up space in the shop, then you will probably be happy.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

I have a question for the folks that currently own one of these 12" combo machines...what is your honest opinion of how well they will face join a board??? Like 8 foot long??? I ask this because, one, they really seem cost effective, and two, they appear in the photo ads I have seen to have a somewhat short looking table length.

I'll ask you back how often you really need to flatten an 8' long board that's going to stay 8 feet long? Even if I had a wide jointer with long beds, I'd still be breaking my material down closer to component size before actually milling it flat and to thickness because that's the best way to get the best results. I do skim long boards so I can see what's there if they are rough, but pretty much never try to flatten something longer than about 5-6' for final use. A table or island top is the exception and I use auxiliary work support to help me control boards for that task.

[John TenEyck]

I used to have an Inca J/P, with tables only 32" long - total! I often face jointed stock 6' long, and sometimes even longer. Of course it required more attention than it does now with my MM FS-35, which seems really long to me at 63?", but it wasn't all that hard.

I'd much rather have a wide jointer with shorter tables than a narrow one with longer.

John

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have a question for the folks that currently own one of these 12" combo machines...what is your honest opinion of how well they will face join a board??? Like 8 foot long??? ....Thanks in advance for any info.

Here are some table specs, you'd need a pretty huge jointer (10' long) to match the A3-31 possible bed length. These extensions, although pricey, will fit on the Infeed and Outfeed end. There are shorter ones available. I have a shorter one permanently attached to the planer outfield.

https://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/ExtensionTable1_zps9whornec.jpg

Outfeed table with extension
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/ExtensionTable2_zpsooxd9tfr.jpg

[Ben Rivel]

Another Hammer A3-31 owner here and that would be my suggestion for at least the lowest option. Based on my research (assuming buying new only) I wouldnt recommend any combo unit less than the A3-31.

[Jamie Buxton]

ChrisA, what do you do when you change over to the planer? Remove the extensions and set them aside, or do they somehow stay connected to the jointer tables?

[ChrisA Edwards]

Yes, in fact, I've not really needed to use the long extension (in picture above) yet. I only have this one long extension, I'll buy a second one if and when I think I need it.

I just wanted to show that the bed on this machine can be extended and made quite long, not sure the other brand J/P's have this functionality.

The extension has a quick release handle (don't know what these are called) and it just slides off.

With the long extension on, you cannot switch the machine mode from jointing to planing without first taking the extension off, that takes about 20 seconds.



https://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/ExtensionTable3_zps1uucffq2.jpg

[Martin Siebert]

Gentlemen, thanks a million for your answers to my question!!! It sounds like everyone is entirely comfortable face jointing boards that are at least 5-6 feet in length. I wasn't aware that extension tables were available. One would think that a combination machine, being more complicated to manufacture, would cost at least as much as a jointer of the same capacity, but in this case even the good ones are still very cost effective when you compare. Never been a fan of combo type machines...nothing against them, just never gave one due consideration until now. The basic job and end result are simplistic. I have to say, at this point it doesn't appear that having a dedicated machine is an advantage especially since the combo is considerably less money. Thanks again fellas!!!

[Jim Becker]

The big advantage to a J/P combo, Marin, is the wide jointer capacity with an identically sized thicknessing planer in the same footprint for a cost that's less than "big" separates. Combos are not for everyone and for every situation, but I honestly believe that most "solitary" woodworkers would not be negatively affected in a major way by owning and using a J/P combo once they discovered that the "common objections", such as changeover time (a minute if that) and bed length (not material most of the time and easily overcome when it is) were not bad like they thought they would be. Personal preference may be what it is, but "functionally"...these machines have what it takes to do the job.

[Matt Mattingley]

Pick and choose the best you can afford.

I have a hammer A-31 with the helical head. Depending on the weight of the board, I can comfortably do almost anything under 7 feet by myself with no extra set ups.

I do get some 10 and 12 foot boards. I either cut them in half, set up in feed and out feed tables or get a helper.

On rare occasions with thicker, long boards... with a promise of short time worked,... I call on the wife. I try to keep it quick and she’s learned the hand jesters as there’s not very much talking.

She appreciates the saying “thank you, you’re fired” as that is her cue, she is relieved from her dusty duties.

[Matt Mattingley]

The big advantage to a J/P combo, Marin, is the wide jointer capacity with an identically sized thicknessing planer in the same footprint for a cost that's less than "big" separates. Combos are not for everyone and for every situation, but I honestly believe that most "solitary" woodworkers would not be negatively affected in a major way by owning and using a J/P combo once they discovered that the "common objections", such as changeover time (a minute if that) and bed length (not material most of the time and easily overcome when it is) were not bad like they thought they would be. Personal preference may be what it is, but "functionally"...these machines have what it takes to do the job.
With the higher end, self adjusting planer table... this could be a good benefit for a two or three men shop with a small footprint. I can do a full changeover and usually be set up in under two minutes. $5000 for a hammer to $15,000 for Martin or Format(Felder) is not in my recovery budget.

A Jointer/planer usually has a benefit on the planer mode. Besides the obvious, large planer. The amount of horsepower. Most jointers really only need one horse power for every 4 inches. Most planners need one horsepower for every 4 inches +1 hp for the feed rollers for every 12 inches. So... for most two in one machines, the cost it is a little heavier than one single machine. But… Single motor machines, that are two and one, I find usually cost about 3/5 of two separate machines. They usually need a bigger single motor or two motors. Yeah the footprint is usually decreased. But this is a sacrifice that usually needs to be weighed on individual basis.

Helical carbide heads most often require more horsepower due to cutting edge technology. Carbide will usually outlast high-speed steel almost 10 to 1. Value of carbide versus high-speed steel needs to be weighed by the consumer. I personally went with carbide inserts as my chainsaw hits way too many nails.

I usually produce my own lumber from others wanting trees cut down im residential. I use the scrap for heating, through a very efficient thermal syphon, air tight heating system, HVAC. 95% of my sawdust/chips are burn for a family/shop heat. One man’s garbage is another man’s gold.

I do have a neighbour lady which purchases clean oak long shavings for $5 a bag to put around her Rose Gardens for the winner. Waste not want not.

[Curt Harms]

Gentlemen, thanks a million for your answers to my question!!! It sounds like everyone is entirely comfortable face jointing boards that are at least 5-6 feet in length. I wasn't aware that extension tables were available. One would think that a combination machine, being more complicated to manufacture, would cost at least as much as a jointer of the same capacity, but in this case even the good ones are still very cost effective when you compare. Never been a fan of combo type machines...nothing against them, just never gave one due consideration until now. The basic job and end result are simplistic. I have to say, at this point it doesn't appear that having a dedicated machine is an advantage especially since the combo is considerably less money. Thanks again fellas!!!

I learned a lesson early in my ownership of the Jet JJP-12. I had a bowed poplar board about 9' long and thought to myself "this is why I bought a wide jointer". I was was able to remove the bow but the ends were about 3/8" thick by the time I was done:o Now I skip plane rought boards to get an idea of the grain then cut to rough length before flattening and planing. Much less waste and easier to handle. One rule of thumb I've heard is you can face joint a board 1.5X - 2X the length of the jointer beds.

[Monte Milanuk]

One rule of thumb I've heard is you can face joint a board 1.5X - 2X the length of the jointer beds.

I've heard that before as well, and always wondered how/if that applied to the combo machines with the shorter beds? Also, is that 1.5-2x the total bed length (end to end) or just the infeed table length - I've heard it both ways...

[John TenEyck]

I've always heard it's 1.5X the combined length of the tables. Long tables just make it easier, but you can face or edge joint boards flat far longer than the length of the tables if you pay attention. But geometry still wins and Curt's example is what's going to happen to a board with that much bow in it regardless of how long the tables are. Take a chalk line and snap it on a badly bowed board so you have the least waste. You can't do any better than that w/o cutting it shorter first regardless of how long the jointer tables are.

John

[john snowdon]

When I set up my shop 9-10 years ago, I bought the Jet JJP-12 with straight blades (only way it came). It has worked well, changes over in 30 seconds and saves me a ton of shop space. I'm a hobbiest and most of the boards I use are under 5'. I check for coplanar every January when I recoat/treat all my tools' cast iron surfaces and rarely have to touch it. I just looked at the cost of a new Hammer A3-41 with 3 knives. It is $5,760. A new JJP-12, also 3 knives, $2,800. The difference is almost what I paid for my SawStop PCS. Sure, helical would have been nice (if they had it then) but I'm happy with my decision, my boards are square, I like the $$ and space savings provided by a combo unit, and love the SawStop I bought at the same time with my savings. Good luck with your decision. I am sure having done your research, it will be the right one for you.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I'll admit the Hammer prices are high, but you are comparing a 12" Jet to a 16" Hammer, a little apples to ranges in size.

My A3-31 (12") was $3900 with the helical head, but the bill came to $5000 with a couple of options and shipping, which is often free with Jet tools.

[Ben Rivel]

I'll admit the Hammer prices are high, but you are comparing a 12" Jet to a 16" Hammer, a little apples to ranges in size.

My A3-31 (12") was $3900 with the helical head, but the bill came to $5000 with a couple of options and shipping, which is often free with Jet tools.
Same here and I thought so too until I compared the pricing for the cheapest 12" jointer I could find new on the market and a good 12" floor standing planer both with helical heads. Then I realized the A3 series is priced right where it should be especially for the quality of tool it is.

[john snowdon]

Yup! My bad. I mistyped the google entry as a A3-41, not A3-31 and landed on a 16, not a 12 page. Sorry. Listed price is $4,195 for 3 knife. It is 4 hp.
n

[Tim Derr]

Hey Tony,

I see a bunch of people mentioning the Hammer to you.
If you have not already, give Felder a call. 866-792-5288.

Someone will be glad to help you out. Keep your mind open in going through this process. There are a lot of great machines out there.

All the best

[Tony Shea]

Hey Tony,

I see a bunch of people mentioning the Hammer to you.
If you have not already, give Felder a call. 866-792-5288.

Someone will be glad to help you out. Keep your mind open in going through this process. There are a lot of great machines out there.

All the best

I can honestly say that I will be saving up for the Hammer now. This thread has talked me into it. I was leaning towards this machine initially but if people were in the camp the extra cost wasn't worth it then I would not bother spending it. But I think I will be much more happy with the Hammer.