Need help to remove this drill press chuck

[Jason Winterrowd]

I have been trying to remove the chuck from this Delta 14 inch bench top drill press. The teeth of the key are worn down. I cant find another that fits, so I want to put on a keyless chuck. I think this is a tapered chuck and I 401365401366have tried everyway I can to remove it but it will not budge. Any advice?

[Matthew Curtis]

Heat may help

[Jamie Buxton]

Sometimes the quill is hollow, so you can drop a drift down it to tap the chuck's shaft out.

[Doug Dawson]

I have been trying to remove the chuck from this Delta 14 inch bench top drill press. The teeth of the key are worn down. I cant find another that fits, so I want to put on a keyless chuck. I think this is a tapered chuck and I 401365401366have tried everyway I can to remove it but it will not budge. Any advice?

A pickle fork (a.k.a. ball joint separator) for a truck might do the trick; you can rent them from auto supply shops. As long as it fits, one tap with a hammer should do it.

[Gary Ragatz]

Have you tried a little Liquid Wrench?

[Mark Carlson]

I had a similar problem and bought a set of wedges that fit my chuck. From amazon. Worked like a charm.

[Dick Mahany]

On my Delta benchtop drill press, I used an automotive pickle fork as mentioned above since I had one handy, but I've used a wedged cold chisel equally successfully. Prying didn't work very well but a few sharp taps around the neck between the chuck and quill quickly popped out the most stubborn chuck. The keyless chuck was a nice upgrade from the original keyed version.

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[Bill Jobe]

Agree on the pickle fork. And the pickle juice on the fork will help prevent rust.:rolleyes:

[Shiraz Balolia]

There are two ways that the drill chuck could have been mounted. One is that there is an internal taper in the spindle. Lower the spindle and look at the spindle. If there is a slot in the spindle, then you need to watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJ3jyEbcse4

If there is no slot, then post #7 may be a good way. You need to be careful as you could damage the spindle or its run out.

We have also done a video explaining the birds and bees of Drill Chucks and arbors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx8ssz8CAo8

[Bill Jobe]

I'd try a straight down tap on the fork, flat side down if it has one, as close to the spindle as possible. Maybe a little more than a tap.
I agree that tapping it the way it is designed to be used might damage the spindle.

[Doug Dawson]

I'd try a straight down tap on the fork, flat side down if it has one, as close to the spindle as possible. Maybe a little more than a tap.
I agree that tapping it the way it is designed to be used might damage the spindle.

It's just a friction fit, so you don't have to give it much of a tap on the end. Still it's a good idea to hold/control the fork and have something cushiony (even just thick tape) in the crook of it.

And don't forget to have something (or somebody) to catch the chuck when it falls. Owch.

[Bruce Wrenn]

.

And don't forget to have something (or somebody) to catch the chuck when it falls. Owch.A balled up towel works nicely.

[Bill Dufour]

theory is pickle fork forcing on inner race so the bearing is not brinnelled. Lower the quill all the way and look for slot for taper wedge. If there is no slot then break out the pickle fork. probably best to use two forks in opposite directions so force is applied perpendicular not at an angle.
Bill D

[Tom M King]

Advance Auto has a loaner tool program, but I don't know the details. A Ball Joint Removal Fork is only around 10 bucks though, and can be bought from any auto parts store, and maybe even HF. They do come in different sizes.

google "drill press chuck removal youtube" and you should be able to find many ways to do different types, and maybe even the same drill press as yours.

[Scott Dorrer]

Post #9 above. Lower quill, insert wedge, tap, tap. Watch your toes!!

[mreza Salav]

Or if you have bearing puller you can try that.

[Dave Sabo]

Bearing puller isn’t going to work.

All the machinists I know will shoot you if you used a pickle fork.

The proper way (if you don’t have a spindle slot ) is to use chuck wedges.


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[roger wiegand]

I didn't know there was an actual tool to do this, so I basically made what Dave shows above with a couple of wedges made from scrap maple. Worked fine. Love having a keyless chuck now!

[Tom M King]

Thanks Dave! Looks like there are a number of them for different taper types, and cheap too:
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/97032726?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Tool+Holding+-+PLA_sYa9cDnHl___164124448283_c_S&mkwid=sYa9cDnHl|dc&pcrid=164124448283&rd=k&product_id=97032726&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4biBRC-ARIsAA4WaFg93byTaqwfYtgFKwMo-zCmxlp_CTuI7n_wcXbZ_10rGrRny7gDVnEaAu-NEALw_wcB

[Dave Sabo]

The first pic is a drift that you'd use in the slot in your spindle - if you have one.

Many home shop presses don't have that feature , so you'd need the wedges - PLURAL

[Bill Jobe]

I thought those where pickle forks.

(That should tell you how many front ends I've worked on)

[Rich Engelhardt]

A 1/4" straight router bit, chucked into my drill press & routing a line in a piece of plywood worked like a champ to get the chuck off my drill press.

A spinning chuck with a razor sharp bit dancing around on the floor added to the excitement of the day...

I don't really recommend my method......I did learn from that though that a drill press is a drill press & not a morticer or drum sander..... ;).

[Jason Winterrowd]

Well I had no idea what size wedges to order so I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pickle fork. 3 easy taps and the chuck fell right off.

Thank you to everyone that offered help!!