What do you do to prep a new chuck for use?

[Clint Bach]

Say your new scroll chuck arrives and you open the package and marvel at your new greater than sliced bread toy. What next? Just put it on the lathe and turn something? Of course you inspect it for all the parts and damage and such... Do you wipe it off and use it? Clean the surfaces with something? Take it apart beburr things lub it and put it back together?

What are your suggestion to get a new chuck ready for service.

thanks,

clint

[JohnC Lucas]

I suppose it depends. If you buy a Vicmarc it comes ready to use. Just screw in the insert and start having fun.

[Robert Henrickson]

If you have to do more than install an adapter (if necessary) and perhaps give the surfaces a wipe, perhaps you have bought the wrong chuck. Especially if disassembly for deburring is needed.

[Fred Belknap]

Just put it on the lathe and use it. I have OneWay chucks and they are practically no maintenance. I do blow it out pretty regularly.

[Clint Bach]

Good simple info.

It's a nova chuck. Not in my possession yet.

[Prashun Patel]

Check the jaw screws, and make sure the insert lock nut is set.

[Michael Mills]

I don't believe you need to do anything but wipe off excess oil/grease if there is any.
I have 7 Novas, two I purchased used.
A used one was very gunked up so I took it apart and gave it a bath.
I sprayed all interior moving parts with two coats of aerosol graphite; looks like a black teflon coating.
Liked it so well I did all of them so that there was nothing to attract or hold dust.
I do like Fred and just hit them with the air gun. Most are 8+ years old now and still operate smoothly with no indication that I need to re-coat them.

[John K Jordan]

I've also never done anything when new (19 Novas here). After considerable use or if feels like it might benefit I'll take apart, clean out any dust, and apply a Teflon-based dry lubricant. (good for the spindle threads on the lathe too, and the sliding parts inside the banjo and tailstock.) I've only done this once and to just a couple of chucks. (BTW, after the compressed air and wire brush, there's nothing better for cleaning/degreasing than aerosol brake cleaner - I bought a case.) Otherwise they are like the Energizer bunny.

It is a good idea to occasionally check the screws. I heard of one guy who traced a problem to a loose screw. In the chuck, that is.

JKJ


I don't believe you need to do anything but wipe off excess oil/grease if there is any.
I have 7 Novas, two I purchased used.
A used one was very gunked up so I took it apart and gave it a bath.
I sprayed all interior moving parts with two coats of aerosol graphite; looks like a black teflon coating.
Liked it so well I did all of them so that there was nothing to attract or hold dust.
I do like Fred and just hit them with the air gun. Most are 8+ years old now and still operate smoothly with no indication that I need to re-coat them.

[Charles Taylor]

I've bought two Nova chucks. Still have one; another Creeker bought the other. Just wiped them off and put them on the lathe.

I also bought a Delta-rebranded Nova chuck. Had to take that one apart and address some tightness in the jaws' movement. I hope that was a rare exception.

[Peter Blair]

I install an adaptor if required and then Slam it on the lathe and give it a go!!

[Richard Dooling]

John,

I know that silicone based lubricants are problematic in the shop because of the possibility of contaminating finishes. Is teflon safer and is it a particular brand of teflon?

Richard


I've also never done anything when new (19 Novas here). After considerable use or if feels like it might benefit I'll take apart, clean out any dust, and apply a Teflon-based dry lubricant. (good for the spindle threads on the lathe too, and the sliding parts inside the banjo and tailstock.) I've only done this once and to just a couple of chucks. (BTW, after the compressed air and wire brush, there's nothing better for cleaning/degreasing than aerosol brake cleaner - I bought a case.) Otherwise they are like the Energizer bunny.

It is a good idea to occasionally check the screws. I heard of one guy who traced a problem to a loose screw. In the chuck, that is.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

John,

I know that silicone based lubricants are problematic in the shop because of the possibility of contaminating finishes. Is teflon safer and is it a particular brand of teflon?

Richard

Teflon itself is inert. The lube I use dries fairly quickly and leaves nothing detectable on the surface. I wouldn't put it (or any other lube) directly on wood to be finished. I have used it on threads I cut in dogwood to fasten to something to the lathe spindle.

I use the Dupont brand in a plastic bottle:
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-Squeeze-x/dp/B00BCVXUR6

Also available in an aerosol can but I prefer the bottle, been using the same bottle for years. Mine is like the one in the link but in a clear plastic bottle. The clear bottle is nice since the extremely fine teflon particles settle to the bottom and I like to see that it is well in suspension while shaking the bottle. If I had the black bottle I'd probably just shake it a little longer, maybe 10 seconds instead of 5.

After applying to anything, I move the parts together to distribute the liquid. When dry it is not the least sticky and won't collect dust.

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks John!