Turtle Wax to protect Table Saw Surface?

[Tom Overthere]

I just bought a new Delta Unisaw, and winter has indeed struck. My shop space is pretty much un-heated and occasionally a bit damp.

Q1. Is Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell liquid car wax suitable for protecting the table surfaces from rust (and setting up a good gliding surface)? I bought the green 16oz squeeze bottle. The label does NOT mention SILICONE (or any other ingredients, for that matter).
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Q2. Do I simply apply per the instructions for automobiles? Is there any add'l prep specific to bare milled surfaces?
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Q3. Can I coat the miter gauge channels with it, as well?
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Q4. The channels/slots are a little bit grimy/gummy, so I’d like to clean them BEFORE waxing. What works best for that?
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First post. Thanks.

[David Fried]

Tom,

Being in New England, living on lake, with a stream running by the shop, with a unheated shop, I am the poster boy for rust! When temps pass through the dew point condensation forms on everything.

When people said use paste wax on your tools I used car wax. Liquid turtle wax at first. It offered very little protection (read NO protection) even when used in conjunction with Boeshield T-9. I tried auto paste wax with similar poor results.

In both cases, after passing a board over the surface the wax was gone.

I finally bought some paste wax for wood for a project. Worked great on the wood so I tried it on my bandsaw. I applied it liberally ( about 10 times as much as needed ) and let it dry while I went to work. I returned eight hours later to find it hard as a rock!! After working it with steel wool and mineral spirits I got things under control. When applying the wax to metal, I now just let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes before buffing. I don't let it dry! Seems to work great - no rust and no more expensive magic solutions!! I clean surfaces with mineral spirits, including the mitre slots, before waxing and I do wax the mitre slots. ( I'm curious what others do ).

I would forget car wax but glad you asked because I didn't and I regret it.


Dave Fried

P.S. Welcome to the Creek!

[Scott Donley]

Hi, I would not use it, but thats just me. You might read this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26409&highlight=paste), should answer your ? And welcome :)

[scott spencer]

Hi Tom - The rule of thumb is to use a non-automotive paste wax like Johnson's or Minwax b/c those don't contain silicone like most automotive paste wax does. I like to apply the Boeshield T-9 for rust prevention and the wax to augment that, plus it reduces friction.

[Dick Parr]

I use Johnson's and it does a great job of protecting and allowing stuff to glide over the surface's. I put a coat on once a month whether it needs it or not. Just got into the habit. Put it in the miter slots on the bottom of my cross sleds and rails.

I picket up one of those turtle wax electric polishers from the Depot (about 6" in dia) and it works great and saves the arms.:rolleyes:

[Howard Acheson]

I don't know about Turtle Wax but many auto liquid and semi-soft paste waxes contain water to make them soft and easily spread. Not a good thing to actually add water to the tabletop.

While tests have shown that Boeshield T9 is the best protectorant, frequent applications of a furniture paste wax seems to work well for many.

[Per Swenson]

Hello,

A few things,

Auto wax is a no-no as the silicones will transfer

to your wood and create a finishing nightmare.

Besides, they aren't that good.

Nothing wrong with Boshield.

Nothing wrong with renaissance wax or butchers wax.

Just do not apply Boshield over any wax, the results are akin

to Cosmoline. Heh-heh I have proof.

The other way around works fine.

Per

[Bill Fields]

Folks:

Move to the Phoenix area. These matters will disappear.

Example: I moved my seldom used 12" RAS outside, but I commisioned a local seamtress to build a fabric shell for it. Shell built--0 percent condensation and rust OFF.

Then again--we have a drying probem here.

BILL FIELDS

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hi Tom,

.... This thread may help your confidence level :).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19411&highlight

Good luck

Boyd




I just bought a new Delta Unisaw, and winter has indeed struck. My shop space is pretty much un-heated and occasionally a bit damp.

Q1. Is Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell liquid car wax suitable for protecting the table surfaces from rust (and setting up a good gliding surface)? I bought the green 16oz squeeze bottle. The label does NOT mention SILICONE (or any other ingredients, for that matter).
<o ="">:p</o>
Q2. Do I simply apply per the instructions for automobiles? Is there any add'l prep specific to bare milled surfaces?
<o ="">:p</o>
Q3. Can I coat the miter gauge channels with it, as well?
<o ="">:p</o>
Q4. The channels/slots are a little bit grimy/gummy, so I’d like to clean them BEFORE waxing. What works best for that?
<o ="">:p</o>
First post. Thanks.

[tod evans]

i have used plain `ol furniture wax for years and swear by it. tod

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks to all for the helpful repies(!).

I'm glad I *didn't* proceed with the Turtle Wax idea. Based on your advise, I think I'll go with the Johnson's Wax (easy to find and been around forever...)

How do you guys CLEAN and/or PREP a new milled cast-iron top before the first coat of wax?

Thanks, Tom

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks to all for the helpful repies(!).

I'm glad I *didn't* proceed with the Turtle Wax idea. Based on your advise, I think I'll go with the Johnson's Wax (easy to find and been around forever...)

How do you guys CLEAN and/or PREP a new milled cast-iron top before the first coat of wax?

Thanks, Tom

[Dennis Peacock]

Johnson's paste wax is a good way to go. I've used it for years with very good success. :D

[Allen Bookout]

I have been using Boeshield T9 and then covering it with Minwax but was still getting some rust here on the salt water. A few of weeks ago I removed the rust with WD40 and scotchbrite and applied the T9 as usual. Then covered it with wax. I was puzzled that I was not getting any rust at all with the last treatment and then noticed that a can of Mothers California Gold Original Formula Carnauba Cleaner Wax was sitting where I normally keep the Minwax. I am sure that I used it rather than the Minwax and it appears to be doing a much better job. I cannot find out (have not called the company yet) if it contains silicone. Anyone here know? Allen

[Bill Lewis]

Well Tom, it looks like you got the answer to your question. All I can add to it is a big "me too"

I used to use whatever I had, auto waxes, liquid or paste. but as others have said, they don't last. I then spotted some Johnson's paste wax in Lowe's one day and decided to try it. Much better. BTW I found it with the cleaning supplies, not the finishing supplies.