Felder KF500 Pro question

[Greg Parrish]

Looking at a used 2007 era KF500 Professional and have some questions.

Anyone know if this unit can use router bits in the shaper? Seller doesn’t think so but searching seems to imply with a proper collet it’s possible. If so, does Felder carry needed parts for a machine this age?

Also, how much space to either side of the blade center do I need for the total slide movement? I’m having a hard time pinning down if I have enough space for the slide to move from full back position to full forward position.

Anything else to consider with with regards to this machine versus the current units?

thanks.

[Jim Becker]

On the second question, what is the length of the wagon? My 2600mm/8'6" slider requires 19' for a full end-to-end throw.

[Mike Kees]

I have a Felder k700 ,I think mine is 21' total on a 10' slide.

[Greg Parrish]

I think it is 2050mm or 80.7 inches. Not sure if the saw is still available but it was recently listed. About a 5 hour drive from me. Just thinking it might be a good alternative to my current cabinet saw with separate router table if it actually fits my small space.


This saw does have the reduced 31” right side fence so that would help reduce horizontal footprint even though large cuts are left of blade.

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Greg, that machine should be able to take felder’s high speed router spindle. I actually have one for sale if you end up buying this machine and want to run router bits. I think it is an option with the machine when you order it. It should come standard with a 30mm or 1-1/4” spindle. It would have been an add on for the original purchaser to have the router bit collet.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks.

Unfortunately, I dug out the specs for floor print size on the used KF500 listed here on the forum, as well as the variants of the Hammer B3 and I just don’t have space for one without a major change up. I’d have to give up a bunch of tools I feel in order to gain the slider due to the outrigger table. Even when combined with the 31” right side setups, the outriggers would eat up a lot of floor space that I need for other things. With only 440 sq ft, I’m tight on space as it is. About the only way I think I could see it working for me is if I had gone with a full combo machine where the right side of the saw is the jointer/planer, but having just bought the A3-31 that isn’t an easy option now.

So, back to looking at a new fence on mine instead I guess.

[Jim Becker]

...or...you would buy a winning lottery ticket and just get a bigger shop. :) :D

[Greg Parrish]

...or...you would buy a winning lottery ticket and just get a bigger shop. :) :D

Ha. I wish. Maybe one day.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I normally don’t have the outrigger on the machine as it’s only used for big stuff. Saves a lot of space and when you want to use it it takes a minute and no tools to put it on.

I was under the impression that the spindles weren’t removable on those machines???

Regards, Rod

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. Good point Rod. Not sure about the spindles. The owner didn’t seem to think so but the website indicates that there are options available. Maybe they have to be ordered and installed with original purchase though. I would want to be able to use router bits but maybe that isn’t practical in the same way a router table works as I’ve never used a shaper table.



Hi, I normally don’t have the outrigger on the machine as it’s only used for big stuff. Saves a lot of space and when you want to use it it takes a minute and no tools to put it on.

I was under the impression that the spindles weren’t removable on those machines???

Regards, Rod

[Greg Parrish]

Just found the router module mentioned and it says must be ordered at time of machine build so it must not be swapable.




Thanks. Good point Rod. Not sure about the spindles. The owner didn’t seem to think so but the website indicates that there are options available. Maybe they have to be ordered and installed with original purchase though. I would want to be able to use router bits but maybe that isn’t practical in the same way a router table works as I’ve never used a shaper table.

[Jim Becker]

You could consider a short-stroke slider and do longer rips conventionally, too. You get the precision for cross-cutting that way. Many of these machines have a shorter miter support that can stay on the machine so you don't have to sport a big outrigger all the time. I have been leaving my outrigger on the machine since I did some space adjusting, but for most of the time I've owned my slider the outrigger lived off the machine. so I could walk past it. :)

[Rod Sheridan]

Just found the router module mentioned and it says must be ordered at time of machine build so it must not be swapable.

Hi Greg, the new 500 series uses the MF spindle system which has the removable spindles, which is the Hammer system.

The larger models (700/900 series) have the full height removable spindles.

My Hammer has the fixed 1” solid spindle with sleeves for 1 1/4” and 30mm . That’s actually handy as I can share cutters between the saw and shaper.

The 500 is a nice machine, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it.....Regards, Rod

[Greg Parrish]

So should I expect that a KF500 Pro will be the same table height as my A3-31? Only thinking that the combo machines have the jointer at table saw height but wasn’t sure about the separates. That might open up some placement options if they are the same height.

[Greg Parrish]

UPDATE

im buying the KF500 Pro listed here on our forum. Made a deal with the seller and going to pick it up on Saturday. Very excited even though I’ll be sad to see my PM66 go once I sell it.

speaking of my PM66, I’ll have it for sale soon if a local friend doesn’t end up taking it. It’s a pure caddy with all the bells and whistles. If he doesn’t buy it, I’ll list it soon for anyone near north Florida that wants some good ole fully restored American iron with lots of accessories. :)

[Jim Becker]

WOW! Congratulations, Greg!!! You are really transforming your shop very quickly for sure!

There are a number of great threads here that provide great information about using a slider and some interesting (and essential) jigs that will make your life complete. :) Be patient as you will learn to do some things differently than with the cabinet saw that you will ultimately be pleased with the results. Precision can be amazing.

[Greg Parrish]

WOW! Congratulations, Greg!!! You are really transforming your shop very quickly for sure!

There are a number of great threads here that provide great information about using a slider and some interesting (and essential) jigs that will make your life complete. :) Be patient as you will learn to do some things differently than with the cabinet saw that you will ultimately be pleased with the results. Precision can be amazing.

thanks Jim. I’m so excited and can’t wait. I can see all the benefits it will offer. Combined with the recent acquisition of the hammer A3-31, it should really change up my shop. Not looking forward to more possible layout shuffle but it is what it is. Once put in place and tapped into the dust collection network it should make for a fun few years building projects. :)

[Jim Becker]

Yes, that's the thing...the combination of the two combinations, as it were, are for me, the "ideal" setup for a small shop. I often wish I would have gone for the saw/shaper, but the deal I got on the slider compared to having to order the S/S was substantially better financially. (Hence, my "poor man's shaper" with the BenchDog setup on my slider) Having the sliding table saw function will also reduce your need to edge joint and that means leaving the J/P in planer mode most of the time. I bounce between the two machines frequently during projects and they are so complimentary, it's sometimes "scary". Along that line, I have the outrigger side of my slider adjacent to the J/P which means I can also use the slider and outrigger to temporarily hold material as I'm milling it on the J/P. Think about that as you decide how you're going to orient things so they are even more complimentary.

[Greg Parrish]

Jim, got a picture showing the orientation you mean?

On another note, the eagle has landed. After a long two days traveling to Atlanta and back, the Felder is now in my shop awaiting its setup. Needs to have the dust hose inside replaced and the belt on the scorer blade replaced but otherwise will just need a tune up and calibration once I get it situated. Unfortunately, no room to do anything until I get the PM66 setup sold and moved out. So I’ll spend some time getting this one cleaned up and ready to go.

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[Jim Becker]

Yup...right side of this pano you can see how the J/P and Slider are positioned relative to each other.

https://sggckw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mCDyJwKdqeX8kKwtek4PEDbWPpWIOWtgdNwUMzLCIoWrnmQJ CVG79eaWp1_NDYXgIt7IF79t33QyKtO4BJOVpRhg9lyS865x7-WFHbrv-oX_j9mG-nbS0raHIsjL1IIzSdzNUOpO2Ds3nd4bSWZx2YOaX_nrgY4wVal t_x_DBRWC_4QUhxwWRqavjzNNtzfKA3PPIZd-cRijK93ZL5b4iNQ?width=660&height=327&cropmode=none

And in this older shot from the other direction
https://rqgqzq.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mNSqsO13L3jFSTdyg2X-WM6rB-Dh_ENUZR5rRQ3J1-GEJXvqjwBGK9_8csuxifuPKsQKiXMlo0dn0x8MEW2Hh2CMIii8 0McKGUrldonB6cFiicUsQyG2U64oUBYzMD_uux6ISNMseFWPG3 ujLxyF7S8xErJVtvTlhrK7GF9FIaA8j7OO7yBaLD0KNrpJs5bw zDu5BwkAN_fKmoCCwIPpxkw?width=660&height=319&cropmode=none

Congratulations on the new machine! It looks like a fine addition to your shop. Of course, now you get to figure out where all those parts go. LOL Hopefully, there will be nothing "extra" left over. Heh...heh...

[Greg Parrish]

That looks like a good idea. Not sure if my layout can do that but I’m going to think about it now. Thanks for sharing.

[Jim Becker]

That is also the "narrowest" area of my shop, which is why I shortened my saw on the right side table/fence to suit.

[Greg Parrish]

This saw had the right side shortened by Felder to 31 or 32 inches also. That would limit the ability to rip a sheet of ply in half but not much else. I have the table that was removed and could replace the fence bar and measure tape if I find it lacking though.


That is also the "narrowest" area of my shop, which is why I shortened my saw on the right side table/fence to suit.

[Greg Parrish]

Any use for the Incra miter 5000 sled that I have on the Felder?

I have an Incra 1000HD that i had planned to use possibly as I saw where someone else adapted one to their slide for certain cuts. That said I’m not sure if it really adds anything beyond the factory slide, miter bar and clamps.

I guess i need to build a Fritz and Franz jig. Maybe that is where I wondered if the 5000 might be adapted some how.

[Patrick Kane]

I dont think the bar will fit the channel in the Felder. With that said, you can definitely buy incra extrusions and stops to make your F&F jig out of. Mine was made on the cheap out of 3/4" ply, an old stanley tote, and incra/woodpeckers t tracks with measuring tapes. I think it is Derek from down under that has an elaborate F&F jig with incra extrusions. His is maybe the most expensive and elaborate version ive seen.

[Jim Becker]

A miter gage designed for a North American cabinet saw or similar isn't really going to be overly useful with a slider and shouldn't actually be needed. That function should already be available on the saw. I suppose it could be adapted if there isn't a short miter function with the machine like I have with mind, however, but you wouldn't likely be sliding it in the slot on the top of the wagon. You'd probably clamp it down on the wagon and use the slider movement through a cut because that's going to be more precise.

[Greg Parrish]

Got it. I’ll sell the 5000 miter sled either with my PM66 or separately then.

Post number 3 here is where I saw the Incra 1000 in use. I have the factory short and long miter bar so this may not do me any additional good but this is why I asked. Was just looking to see if there was any point in keeping them.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230613-Hammer-K3-Winner-What-I-ve-learned-in-the-last-6-months&p=2412105#post2412105


another curious question. My table is cut down to 32”. Is there any way to split a sheet of plywood in half, or would I need the 48” fence bar/table back on it?

[Patrick Kane]

What outrigger do you have? If i make a 48" cut, im referencing off the outrigger stop and not the rip fence. You will find you use the rip fence as a secondary stop and not really a proper rip fence--most of the times, atleast. My machine also has a 31-32" rip fence(dumb, because i have the aftermarket blade guard that extends to 48-49" to the right), but for 48" offcuts to the right of the blade i flip the rip fence down and out of the way and reference the cut off the crosscut fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

As others have said, I don't see a use for it.

Now, a Fritz und Franz jig and a deflector wedge, those are useful.................Regards, Rod.


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[Patrick Kane]

I really really need to make one of those, Rod. What magnets did you use?

[Jim Becker]

Patrick, I made one and used the magnetic "switches" available from Lee Valley for mine. A nice scrap of ash plus a little woodworking and my wedge was ready for use.

[Rod Sheridan]

I really really need to make one of those, Rod. What magnets did you use?

Hi, bottom of page 1 has the part number for the Lee Valley magnets...........Rod.

[Greg Parrish]

Any issues with these feet? It was missing the factory feet and I had these on hand. Looks somewhat similar to the feet on the A3-31. These are somewhere around 3/16 to 1/4 inch.will give me the ability to level the saw I think but if anyone has pictures of the factory feet I would appreciate seeing them.

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[Rod Sheridan]

Should be fine, have you used the machine yet.

I’m hiding in the shop as it’s -16 today, not as bad as my sister, it’s - 30 where she is......Rod

[Greg Parrish]

Should be fine, have you used the machine yet.

I’m hiding in the shop as it’s -16 today, not as bad as my sister, it’s - 30 where she is......Rod

Holy cow and I though 39 here in FL was cold. No use on it yet. Saw it run but nothing more. I’ve got a bunch to do still to get it ready. Waiting on scorer belt, dust shoot adapter for inside, etc. I also need to change the power plug to fit my outlets, get the outside dust collection rigged up (got my two adapters today), and then get everything checked for level and alignment. Need the power magic gone also to make room.

Im in no rush. Want it all done right before I move forward. :)

[Jim Becker]

Greg, we are expecting 8 degrees F in the morning with a minus 13 degrees F wind chill from the back side of this storm/Arctic blast. It's not hanging around, but the morning will be brutal for anyone having to go out.
--
The feet should be fine.

[Greg Parrish]

Don’t have the new saw running but still have some functionality. Knocked out a personalized cutting board as a gift for one of my customers. Soon as I can get the Powermatic sold and moved out, I can start setting the the new layout connections up. Hopefully this is the last change for a while. Phew...........

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[Greg Parrish]

Man o man. The folks who had this saw must have ordered almost every outrigger and slider option. I’m lost on what some of this is, but I can tell it all needs to be aligned during initial setup. Without making some adjustment in position I don’t think leaving the outrigger open all the time is really an option due to walkway access. I may look at shifting my layout to a diagonal position but that may not afford enough room. Would like to be able to leave outrigger on all the time though.

Looking at this more, I’m thinking the best layout with the slider is when the saw is fitted up to a wall on the opposite slide so you have the most space to left of blade. That make sense?

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[Greg Parrish]

Okay, some questions for the experts. i figured out the shorter miter setup

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But what the heck is this piece? Can’t figure out what it goes to. Shaper maybe?
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And does this look right? No instructions on this cast iron extension but I’m assuming it is to clamp on to this rail and extend cast iron outfeed. But the clamp bar doesn’t seem quite long enough to grab this properly and it will just pull off easily.
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Thank you

[Jim Becker]

Yes, it looks like you scored the "it slices it dices" accessories assortment there, Greg! That's a good thing, IMHO. Some Felder/Hammer familiar folks will have to help with some of your specific questions about "doo-dads". I will mention that on my slider, I use the short miter by-far the most, both because it's the best for the majority of my crosscutting work and because it supports the workpiece behind the cut. I do leave my outrigger on now since I shortened my right side table a couple years ago and to your point, that right side is "effectively" against a wall. That works nicely for a slider because the majority of the action is on the left. I believe I previously showed you that my J/P is parallel with my slider on the outrigger side and that makes for a very complimentary arrangement for bouncing back and forth between the machines as well as allowing me to use the outrigger to hold boards I'm milling at the J/P in a way to avoid bending down to pick them up as they are being processed. I actually use the whole sliding saw for that, bouncing material between the outrigger and the rest of the saw as I make each pass at the J/P. I really like this arrangement, but it took awhile to get it refined and finalized...and I was also dealing with that stairway obstruction mid-shop, too.

It will probably take you a little bit of time to figure out the best arrangement for your shop for work flow and aside from the DC pains with moving things around, you at least have the mobility capability for each of the machines to figure things out.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks Jim. That’s sort of what I was thinking. A triangle between jointer/planer, sliding saw and miter station would cover most of my use. But, of course that means reconfiguring the rest of it all again. Still probably worth the effort to get this nailed down though. And I want it pinned down before I get my wiring added in a week or so. LOL

regarding the extras, I think I got more value in extras than what I even paid for the saw in whole. Some of these parts are $500 to $600 each. To to mention I picked up a pallet jack too.



Yes, it looks like you scored the "it slices it dices" accessories assortment there, Greg! That's a good thing, IMHO. Some Felder/Hammer familiar folks will have to help with some of your specific questions about "doo-dads". I will mention that on my slider, I use the short miter by-far the most, both because it's the best for the majority of my crosscutting work and because it supports the workpiece behind the cut. I do leave my outrigger on now since I shortened my right side table a couple years ago and to your point, that right side is "effectively" against a wall. That works nicely for a slider because the majority of the action is on the left. I believe I previously showed you that my J/P is parallel with my slider on the outrigger side and that makes for a very complimentary arrangement for bouncing back and forth between the machines as well as allowing me to use the outrigger to hold boards I'm milling at the J/P in a way to avoid bending down to pick them up as they are being processed. I actually use the whole sliding saw for that, bouncing material between the outrigger and the rest of the saw as I make each pass at the J/P. I really like this arrangement, but it took awhile to get it refined and finalized...and I was also dealing with that stairway obstruction mid-shop, too.

It will probably take you a little bit of time to figure out the best arrangement for your shop for work flow and aside from the DC pains with moving things around, you at least have the mobility capability for each of the machines to figure things out.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, getting that pallet jack was a very nice addition...handy not just for moving the saw (I rented one when mine arrived and the one time I had to move it) but other things over time. (As long as you have a place to park it) Make a quick and dirty cardboard mockup of your shop and tools to approximate scale and sit at your kitchen table and play with it. That's a lot easier than moving the wee-beasties around a lot. Once you think you have things good for workflow...move them in the shop temporarily so you can do a walk around. I'm about to do a similar exercise to determine if I want to make some changes to the south end of my shop where the CNC, miter station (which is currently fixed), workbench and bandsaw are.

[Greg Parrish]

More questions to add to above. LOL. Again, thanks for any help :)

this one is about the score blade bracket deal. I can’t figure out what the diagrams are telling me other than maybe it turns one way when score installed and another when no score blade installed. Manual isn’t clear. Any input?

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And other than depth of cut, why would I use a 10” blade on here if I have 12” blades? Between what came with the saw and what I picked up in a package deal new from Felder, I now have blades of multiple diameters. My mind says just run the 315mm / 12” ones and be done but I’m sure there is a reason. I do see different rpms mentioned on the blades. Is there a use for all these sizes?

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[Jim Becker]

The only reason to use a 10" blade on the saw is if you want to continue to use something you already have, IMHO. I just finally got completely switched over to 12" and it's eliminated the need to do certain adjustments to my riving knife, etc., and having the extra depth of cut is handy. I have exactly one 10" blade I'd still run on my saw and that's a very aggressive 20T Forrest WW-II ripping blade. That said, if you have a bunch of Felder bored blades that are usable, use them when they are appropriate. :)

If you have a scoring blade, install it, get it adjusted and leave it on the machine. You will loving having it available for sheet goods and it's even nice sometimes for solid stock when you absolutely have to avoid any trash on a cut edge no matter what.

[Greg Parrish]

Ive got the six in the picture and the scoring blade pictured. Your comments are along the lines I was thinking. Think I’ll try to sell the 10” versions and just use the new 12” blades.

Now if if I could just figure out how to get the new scoring belt on. LOL. Fighting with it now but can’t see it for routing over the two pulleys, the tensioner and the flywheel on the saw blade shaft. Fun, fun.



The only reason to use a 10" blade on the saw is if you want to continue to use something you already have, IMHO. I just finally got completely switched over to 12" and it's eliminated the need to do certain adjustments to my riving knife, etc., and having the extra depth of cut is handy. I have exactly one 10" blade I'd still run on my saw and that's a very aggressive 20T Forrest WW-II ripping blade. That said, if you have a bunch of Felder bored blades that are usable, use them when they are appropriate. :)

If you have a scoring blade, install it, get it adjusted and leave it on the machine. You will loving having it available for sheet goods and it's even nice sometimes for solid stock when you absolutely have to avoid any trash on a cut edge no matter what.

[Greg Parrish]

Okay, duh moment. Got the scoring blade belt on finally. And realized what the 250mm blades are for. To use scorer you must use 250mm blade and 80mm scorer. This picture shows the label I was confused by earlier and a 315mm/12” blade mounted. No room for scorer with this blade so my blade purchase may have limited value but will still be handy for solid woods. Just means having t take the scorer blade on and off a lot. Oh well. Must be the deal with the hammer internals. Wish it would mount the 12” and scorer but oh well.
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[Jim Becker]

AH...that's a difference between your saw and mine...my scoring blade is set far enough back that it's compatible with the 12" blade.

[Greg Parrish]

Yep. That’s the hammer internals I guess. Not a big deal but on a mixed media project it means lots of blade changes or using only 10” blades. Anyway, given the fact that I only paid $3,400 for the whole package, I can’t complain. As mentioned I think there is that much in accessories here.

Then I managed to trade my used Powermatic PM66 and grizzly 17” in a deal for the MM16, so I think I did okay there too.

anyway, short of a full blown combo unit that had the J/P in it, I’m so thrilled with this new setup I can’t stand it. Just wish I knew how to just tear into it and set it up without the learning curve. LOL.

The weeks it it will take me between work and family obligations make the setup seem to take forever but I keep reminding myself that these are my “forever” tools. Yeah, right. But that’s what I keep telling myself. LOL



AH...that's a difference between your saw and mine...my scoring blade is set far enough back that it's compatible with the 12" blade.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Greg, the bracket prevents you from mounting a 12 inch blade when the scoring saw is fitted.

I always use a 10 inch unless I need the added height when ripping rough material....Rod

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks Rod. Unfortunately the learning curve is steep on these things. I ordered the 12” kit while it was on sale. That said had 8 realized it would have l8 item value I’d probably have stuck with10” blades except one for thicker stock. Oh well.

Made ok progress today on setup. Got the plug installed and the saw powered up. Lots more to go but think I’m ready to start leveling and aligning the saw next weekend when I get back in the shop. :)



Hi Greg, the bracket prevents you from mounting a 12 inch blade when the scoring saw is fitted.

I always use a 10 inch unless I need the added height when ripping rough material....Rod

[Jim Becker]

It sounds like for this particular machine, using the 10" blades most of the time like Rod mentioned may actually be the way to go so you can leave the scoring blade on and leverage it quickly for when it's the right tool for the job.

[Mike Kees]

Enjoy,Felders are sweet sliders.

[Jim Becker]

Greg, I don't know if you noticed it, but Ben has some very nice Felder accessories for sale in the Classifieds if your machine is compatible with them.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. Yes, we talked but I had ordered the whitehill combo block which covers the rebate cutter, and the slot cutter is too large for my shaper hood, which I think is the upgraded 240mm model but still 10mm too small. :)


Greg, I don't know if you noticed it, but Ben has some very nice Felder accessories for sale in the Classifieds if your machine is compatible with them.

[Greg Parrish]

Got electrical sorted out yesterday. Working through blade alignment, saw leveling, etc today.

looks like I have to make a call to Felder in morning. None of the digital height and angle gauges I ordered from the e-store work on my machine. Also, I don’t need a box of 12” blades since I can’t mount a 12” and scorer. Looks like I need the, to research if there is a part number that fits my 2007 model for the digital angle gauge for shaper and spindle. Also want to swap the 12” blades for 10” models for simplicity. Should generate enough credit to exchange for 10” blades and put towards an adjustable slot cutter but we will see what they say.

Need to to figure out a power feeder and mount bracket next. I’m thinking of just getting a STEFF 2038 instead of the Felder F38, but not sure if I’ll be missing anything if I do. Looks like the STEFF model is heavier and also looks like STEFF makes the Felder units.

Anyway, making slow progress on setup between work obligations.

[John Kee]

Got electrical sorted out yesterday. Working through blade alignment, saw leveling, etc today.

looks like I have to make a call to Felder in morning. None of the digital height and angle gauges I ordered from the e-store work on my machine. Also, I don’t need a box of 12” blades since I can’t mount a 12” and scorer. Looks like I need the, to research if there is a part number that fits my 2007 model for the digital angle gauge for shaper and spindle. Also want to swap the 12” blades for 10” models for simplicity. Should generate enough credit to exchange for 10” blades and put towards an adjustable slot cutter but we will see what they say.

Need to to figure out a power feeder and mount bracket next. I’m thinking of just getting a STEFF 2038 instead of the Felder F38, but not sure if I’ll be missing anything if I do. Looks like the STEFF model is heavier and also looks like STEFF makes the Felder units.

Anyway, making slow progress on setup between work obligations.

You will need a tilt away bracket and should consider a gas assist shock to aid in raising and lowering. I originally got a F38 for my and it worked OK. PIA to change speeds. 2 years ago found the Comatic DC30 and now use it on my shaper and moved the F38 to my AD951. IMHO the DC30 is superior for 2 reasons, first easy to adjust speed and extremely easy to change from horizontal feeding to vertical feeding. I have no connection to the supplied link but found them extremely easy to deal with especially living in Canada. Many members of the Felders Owner Group have also recommended this as a great upgrade and is the preferred venue for brand specific questions.

https://www.shopgearinc.com/products/co-matic-power-feeders/3-wheel-variable-speed.php

[Mike Delyster]

You will need a tilt away bracket and should consider a gas assist shock to aid in raising and lowering. I originally got a F38 for my and it worked OK. PIA to change speeds. 2 years ago found the Comatic DC30 and now use it on my shaper and moved the F38 to my AD951. IMHO the DC30 is superior for 2 reasons, first easy to adjust speed and extremely easy to change from horizontal feeding to vertical feeding. I have no connection to the supplied link but found them extremely easy to deal with especially living in Canada. Many members of the Felders Owner Group have also recommended this as a great upgrade and is the preferred venue for brand specific questions.

https://www.shopgearinc.com/products/co-matic-power-feeders/3-wheel-variable-speed.php

Like John I all so had a F38 which I found a pain to change speeds and to change from horizontal to vertical feeding. I’m not sure, but I think I was told before the F38 is a rebadged Steff.
Living in Canada I bought one of the Cantek DC feeders through Ackhurst in Edmonton. It’s the same feeder as John linked above, but with a different name and paint colour.
http://www.akhurst.com/product/dc30-3-roll-variable-speed-power-feeder/

[Mike King]

In the 5 years I’ve had my CF741, I’ve never used the scoring blade. I don’t work much with sheet goods, but when I do I have found the cuts to be quite clean without scoring. It’s a pain to setup the scoring blade. Ymmv.

[John Kee]

In the 5 years I’ve had my CF741, I’ve never used the scoring blade. I don’t work much with sheet goods, but when I do I have found the cuts to be quite clean without scoring. It’s a pain to setup the scoring blade. Ymmv.

I use it daily but then I work with a lot of varying sheet material. Scoring is typically only for sheet goods, while you can get some good cuts, in some sheet goods, its very blade and material sensitive. Scoring basically eliminates this and the associated bottom blowout. While it can be a bit tedious the first time, once you understand the procedure you have to use to do to get to your final setup it becomes much easier, it rarely takes more then 5 minutes now.

[Greg Parrish]

Watched the video. For the money it looks like the right way to go. Thanks for the lead.



Like John I all so had a F38 which I found a pain to change speeds and to change from horizontal to vertical feeding. I’m not sure, but I think I was told before the F38 is a rebadged Steff.
Living in Canada I bought one of the Cantek DC feeders through Ackhurst in Edmonton. It’s the same feeder as John linked above, but with a different name and paint colour.
http://www.akhurst.com/product/dc30-3-roll-variable-speed-power-feeder/