Advice on First Chuck

[Wes Mitchell]

First real post in the Turner's forum. Long time lurker, and I've mostly frequented the engraving section.

I'm planning on upgrading from a small HF lathe to a Laguna 18/36 by the end of the month, and I'm looking for some advice on my first chuck. There seems to be quite a few options out there, and it's somewhat confusing. I'm just looking for an all-around option right now. Currently I mostly make wands, but I hope to get into bowls/platters at some point.

Right now I'm leaning towards the Supernova2. There's an Anniversary kit with 2", 4", and 5" jaws. Prices seem to vary wildly. One site has the set listed for $169, but Rockler sells the same set for $308. This chuck fits the 1-1/4" 8TPI spindle on the 18/36. If I go with something like the G3, does that mean I buy the Nova Insert/Adapter, 1-1/4" 8-TPI?

Admittedly Nova is the brand I've researched the most, but do other brands work the same way?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[Prashun Patel]

I have two Supernova 2's and a G3 (and also the Laguna 18/36). The Supernova is larger, which is great for your bigger turnings.

The G3 is fine; yes you need to buy the right insert for any chuck. For the 18/36 is it is indeed 1 1/4" x 8tpi.

The Nova jaw sets are interchangeable.

A small point, but the SN2 takes a hex key, whereas the G3 takes a larger chuck key. On the 18/36, more holes on the accessory tray will accomodate the SN2 key than the G3 key. VERY small point, I know.

[David M Peters]

It's great having lots of choices, but yeah the chuck market is tough to digest all at once! As far as I know, Vicmarc & Nova offer the widest variety of jaw choices; that SN2 kit sounds like a great choice.

Personally, I've went with a Vicmarc VM100 as my general purpose chuck; I have two of them to reduce jaw changes. For larger work I have a Hurricane HTC125.

[Don Jarvie]

Hurricane 125 here. Excellent chuck.

[Al Wasser]

Novas are good chucks and will serve you well. If you need an insert be sure you get a Nova to fit a Nova chuck. A different brand insert may cause the chuck to not run true.

[Mike Goetzke]

Hurricane 125 here. Excellent chuck.

+1

When I was looking for a first chuck few years ago they offered a Hurricane HTC-100 chuck with something like 6 jaw sets for a reasonable price. Was nice to have them on-hand to try. Since then I have bought their HTC-125 chuck too and a couple jaw sets for it. You may want to contact thewoodturningstore and see if they still sell the kit.

Mike

[Wes Mitchell]

I have two Supernova 2's and a G3 (and also the Laguna 18/36). The Supernova is larger, which is great for your bigger turnings.

The G3 is fine; yes you need to buy the right insert for any chuck. For the 18/36 is it is indeed 1 1/4" x 8tpi.

The Nova jaw sets are interchangeable.

A small point, but the SN2 takes a hex key, whereas the G3 takes a larger chuck key. On the 18/36, more holes on the accessory tray will accomodate the SN2 key than the G3 key. VERY small point, I know.

Prashun, thanks for the tips. Your name has definitely come up a time or two during my search.

[Wes Mitchell]

It's great having lots of choices, but yeah the chuck market is tough to digest all at once! As far as I know, Vicmarc & Nova offer the widest variety of jaw choices; that SN2 kit sounds like a great choice.

Personally, I've went with a Vicmarc VM100 as my general purpose chuck; I have two of them to reduce jaw changes. For larger work I have a Hurricane HTC125.

David, there certainly are a lot of choices. The SN2 kit seems a little too good to be true. The site is Tools Plus outlet. It says it is a dedicated 1-1/4" 9TPI chuck, so the insert is not an option. Maybe that is why the price is so much lower.

[Wes Mitchell]

+1

When I was looking for a first chuck few years ago they offered a Hurricane HTC-100 chuck with something like 6 jaw sets for a reasonable price. Was nice to have them on-hand to try. Since then I have bought their HTC-125 chuck too and a couple jaw sets for it. You may want to contact thewoodturningstore and see if they still sell the kit.

Mike

Mike, I did look at their site. I don't see anything in the way of kits, and the HTC100 with one set of dovetail jaws is $200. Sounds like you got a great deal!

[Thomas Wilson80]

David, there certainly are a lot of choices. The SN2 kit seems a little too good to be true. The site is Tools Plus outlet. It says it is a dedicated 1-1/4" 9TPI chuck, so the insert is not an option. Maybe that is why the price is so much lower.

I recently purchased the SN2 kit from ToolsPlus and it is great - the kit does not come with an insert type chuck so you won't be able to use it on a lathe with another sized spindle. I also have a Oneway Talon, but I like the SN2 much better and use it exclusively now.

You can buy different SN2 kits that include the insert type chuck but then have to buy the insert separately for around $15-20, but I didn't see any insert types that included as many jaws for such a low price.
Tom

[Wes Mitchell]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I went ahead and ordered the SN2 kit from ToolsPlus. Thanks Thomas for confirming that it was a legit deal.

[John K Jordan]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I went ahead and ordered the SN2 kit from ToolsPlus. Thanks Thomas for confirming that it was a legit deal.

Amazon currently has it for $188 so the Rockler price seems way too high.

I think most of the chuck brands are fine. I have 19 Nova/Teknatool chucks since I don't like to change jaws (and for a couple of other reasons) and I like them a lot. I do not like the geared chuck key on the original Supernova chuck but the hex key on the Supernova2 is wonderful. (The G3 also has a geared chuck key which is better than the original SN but not much.)

There may be one potential problem with a direct threaded chuck. While the inserts for the insert types have hex flats so I can take the chuck off the lathe with the wrench, the one direct thread Titan chuck I have does NOT have a way to use the wrench. You have to loosen the chuck some other way, such as use/abuse the chuck key. I know many people do this all the time but I don't - I've seen some chucks damaged by enthusiastic turners. I plan to machine a couple of flats on mine to accept the wrench.

Also one issue with the Nova hex key that is easily fixable: it has a ball end which can slip out of the socket if not careful. Some people have damaged the socket and Nova has had to provide replacement parts. The easy fix is grind the ball off the end.

JKJ

[Bryan Lisowski]

That is a good deal on the SN2 chuck, thanks for the heads up.

[Brice Rogers]

...

There may be one potential problem with a direct threaded chuck. While the inserts for the insert types have hex flats so I can take the chuck off the lathe with the wrench, the one direct thread Titan chuck I have does NOT have a way to use the wrench. You have to loosen the chuck some other way, such as use/abuse the chuck key. I know many people do this all the time but I don't - I've seen some chucks damaged by enthusiastic turners. I plan to machine a couple of flats on mine to accept the wrench.

Also one issue with the Nova hex key that is easily fixable: it has a ball end which can slip out of the socket if not careful. Some people have damaged the socket and Nova has had to provide replacement parts. The easy fix is grind the ball off the end.

JKJ

Your points are valid.

I have a plastic washer that seems to help getting a really strong "lock-up". So, I usually use the chuck key to unscrew it. And usually the amount of force required is really pretty low. But if I'd had a significant catch (less likely these days) it is more stubborn. That is when I slip in a board or rod into the chuck jaws or give it a "yank". You are spot-on that you don't want to use the chuck key is the required force is high.

There seems to be more lower-priced 1 x 8 chucks than 1-1/4 x 8 chucks. I liked the "value proposition" of the Griz 5-1/2" chuck set. I got a bunch of different sized jaws plus a set of Cole jaws at a reasonable price. But it is only available in 1 x 8 direct thread. So I bought a 1 x 8 to 1-1/4 x 8 adapter. Griz sells two: one at under $10 and one around 30 or 40. I bought the cheap one and the runout is close to zero. I haven't bothered to put on a dial indicator but optically it looks great. Also things like a Beale 1" tap, faceplates, etc., are better priced as 1 x 8 than 1-1/4 x 8. Also 1 x 8 bolts and nuts are pretty common while a 1-1/4 x 8 are specialty items. If I ever have such a horrible catch that I snap a 1" diameter shaft but where a 1-1/4 shaft would hold - - well then I've got some serious problems. It is more likely that my 1/2" gouge or my cast-iron banjo is going to give up the ghost than the adapter. Just my thoughts.

[John K Jordan]

The problem many people have with the plastic washers (and the reason I quit using one) is they can cause imprecise registration with the headstock spindle. As long as the connection is tight enough it's not a problem until the chuck is removed from the lathe then remounted later.

I remove and remount chucks a lot, not only when a student not finish a piece in one session but for my own work - put one project aside and work on something else. Also I don't sand things like bowls and platters on the lathe but take them off the lathe to smooth and sand, sometimes remounting.

It's far worse to use a board or something in the chuck jaws to remove the chuck since that involves taking the piece out of the chuck - it's almost impossible to get it registered again once the wood is removed from the jaws. Close is often not useful. The chuck wrench solves all these things.

Good thoughts about the adapter - a quality adapter sounds like a good solution for some with a chuck that doesn't fit their lathe. I don't use them myself since all my scroll chucks, screw chucks, faceplates, and taps and such have the 1-1/4x8 inserts or direct thread. Ruth Niles even offers a direct-threaded mandrel now with a 3/8" thread on the working end for her bottle stoppers and such.

JKJ


Your points are valid.

I have a plastic washer that seems to help getting a really strong "lock-up". So, I usually use the chuck key to unscrew it. And usually the amount of force required is really pretty low. But if I'd had a significant catch (less likely these days) it is more stubborn. That is when I slip in a board or rod into the chuck jaws or give it a "yank". You are spot-on that you don't want to use the chuck key is the required force is high.

There seems to be more lower-priced 1 x 8 chucks than 1-1/4 x 8 chucks. I liked the "value proposition" of the Griz 5-1/2" chuck set. I got a bunch of different sized jaws plus a set of Cole jaws at a reasonable price. But it is only available in 1 x 8 direct thread. So I bought a 1 x 8 to 1-1/4 x 8 adapter. Griz sells two: one at under $10 and one around 30 or 40. I bought the cheap one and the runout is close to zero. I haven't bothered to put on a dial indicator but optically it looks great. Also things like a Beale 1" tap, faceplates, etc., are better priced as 1 x 8 than 1-1/4 x 8. Also 1 x 8 bolts and nuts are pretty common while a 1-1/4 x 8 are specialty items. If I ever have such a horrible catch that I snap a 1" diameter shaft but where a 1-1/4 shaft would hold - - well then I've got some serious problems. It is more likely that my 1/2" gouge or my cast-iron banjo is going to give up the ghost than the adapter. Just my thoughts.

[Rich Aldrich]

I had SN2 chucks but found issues with the limited jaw opening compared to the Strong hold. I normally turn tennons to hold the bowl blank with the chuck. I found during the drying process the tennons shrink so much that by the time you true up the tennon, the SN can’t grip it to final turn. There is a lot more travel with the Stronghold. I have since finished those bowls with the Stronghold Chuck. It might not seem like a big deal but I turn a lot of burl.

I am sure there was a better fix for my problem but the Stronghlod works for me.

[Clint Bach]

Btw, the supernova 2 anniversary kit doesn't come with any jaws that will hold a small round or square spindle. Like a wand... A two inch or slightly less tenon is the smallest size. You will probably need to buy at least one extra jaw set.

C

[John K Jordan]

Btw, the supernova 2 anniversary kit doesn't come with any jaws that will hold a small round or square spindle. Like a wand... A two inch or slightly less tenon is the smallest size. You will probably need to buy at least one extra jaw set.

My favorite small Nova jaws are the mini spigot jaws: https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-mini-spigot-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/
I use them a lot to grip 1/2" squares. Some of the other small spigot jaws only have one screw per jaw segment but these have two. I turn the handles, clappers, and connection pieces for these little handbell ornaments from 1/2" squares:

401522

But I don't use jaws for thin spindles like wands, conductor batons, and such. Instead, I turn a short #2 Morse Taper on the end while holding between centers, quick and easy to make once you know how. This taper fits in the headstock spindle socket and has lots of advantages, there is better clearance at the end since the chuck is not in the way, no jaws to bang careless fingers, a longer blank can be turned on a smaller lathe, and best, I can take the piece off the lathe and remount at any time without losing precise registration - usually not possible with a chuck. Here is one on a blank and a couple on finished wands but not yet cut off and hand finished. (I have turned 100s this way)

401521

I also sometimes use collets for thin spindles and especially for finials. These are #2 Morse taper collets that fit in the headstock socket and this size will hold a 1/2" tenon, easier to make than the taper. Great for thin things that need to be turned unsupported by the tailstock. The collets are cheap ($10 or so) and are threaded for a 3/8" drawbar, easily made. They have the same advantages as the wood #2MT with the further advantage of a secure hold even when the tailstock is removed.

401520

My other favorite Nova jaws for fairly small things are the 35mm, 45mm, and the long nosed jaws. The most worthless set of jaws I bought are the step jaws. I'll give them away for free for the first person who knocks on the my door wanting them. (they are not worth the knock!)

JKJ

[Robert Henrickson]

My favorite small Nova jaws are the mini spigot jaws: https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-mini-spigot-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/
I use them a lot to grip 1/2" squares.

[snip] My other favorite Nova jaws for fairly small things are the 35mm, 45mm, and the long nosed jaws. The most worthless set of jaws I bought are the step jaws. I'll give them away for free for the first person who knocks on the my door wanting them. (they are not worth the knock!)
JKJ

Despite being primarily a spindle turner, I have yet to use mini-spigot jaws (or perhaps once every year or two?), perhaps because I do not do *very small* diameter spindles. The 35 and 45 mm jaws, however, I use very frequently in spindle turning. I highly recommend them. I have a set of step jaws which I've never used. I agree as to how useless they are.

[Dave Bunge]

My favorite small Nova jaws are the mini spigot jaws: https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-mini-spigot-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/
I use them a lot to grip 1/2" squares.

My other favorite Nova jaws for fairly small things are the 35mm, 45mm, and the long nosed jaws.

JKJ

John (and Robert):
Couple of questions on these small Nova jaws for use in spindle turning:

1. What is the profile inside of the mini spigot jaws? Are they smooth, same diameter top to bottom, or do they have the slight indentation/mini dovetail like the 50mm jaws? I couldn't tell from the pictures or descriptions on the Nova site.
2. For the 35 and 45 mm jaws, which type do you use? The spigot versions that have the serrated teeth or the bowl version that are smooth inside?

Thanks,
Dave

[John K Jordan]

John (and Robert):
Couple of questions on these small Nova jaws for use in spindle turning:

1. What is the profile inside of the mini spigot jaws? Are they smooth, same diameter top to bottom, or do they have the slight indentation/mini dovetail like the 50mm jaws? I couldn't tell from the pictures or descriptions on the Nova site.
2. For the 35 and 45 mm jaws, which type do you use? The spigot versions that have the serrated teeth or the bowl version that are smooth inside?

Thanks,
Dave

The small jaws I have (mini spigot, pin jaws, 25mm, and 20 mm) are smooth inside and smooth* + dovetailed outside.

*The outsides of these are cylindrical all the way to the base so the jaws can expand nicely into a drilled hole. But unlike the larger dovetailed jaws, the dovetail is machined into the OD end, keeping the same max diameter.

The smooth inside diameters on these jaws are between 5/16" and 3/8". The heights of the taller jaws from the top of the chuck are 1-3/8"+, great for long 1/2" square blanks since on a SN2 chuck I can sink them over 2" into the jaws and chuck body to shorten protrusion of the part I'm working on, then extend them further to work on the next piece. Note also that the 20mm jaws appear to be identical to the 25mm jaws but with the end turned down to a smaller diameter, leaving a 25mm step at the base of the jaws.

If I had just one I'd get the mini spigot jaws.

I use these larger jaws for larger spindle work (note there are several views, click under the photo),
35mm jaws, serrated inside, dovetail outside:
https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-35mm-spigot-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/

45mm jaws, serrated inside, dovetail outside:
https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-45mm-spigot-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/

Long nose, dovetail outside, dovetail + serrated inside
https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-long-nose-chuck-accessory-jaw-set/

Those serrated inside are very good at holding a long spindle when a long tenon is first turned. However, I mostly use them on square stock, grabbing the corners between the jaws. This is the way I usually hold short 2" square stock with the std 50mm jaws but with the extra depth of the three jaws above they are very secure for holding longer unsupported square stock. For example, I can easily chuck an 10-12" 2x2 or 8" 1.5x1.5 blank and turn something first on the end (unsupported by the tailstock), part that off then turn another one, etc. I do this for small things like tops and eggs since making two or three from one long piece uses less wood then using two or three shorter blanks.

BTW, an unsupported longer blank will also work with the std 50mm/2" jaws too but with some wood there can be vibration on first one but it's not really a problem and easily controllable once you know how. I first support the end with the tailstock to turn the blank round then remove the tailstock to turn the thing. I'll get two eggs out of this blank and have a shorter piece left over for something else.

401543

FWIW, you can turn any of these jaws down on the wood lathe to true them up if needed (rare) or to make a smaller custom size. (Before truing be sure the problem is not a bit of dust or a burr or something under the jaws.) I use a Thompson scraper. Here's a 25mm jaw set I'm turning down to 19mm for a special use.

401544

JKJ

[Robert Henrickson]

JKJ's reply covers the 35 and 45 mm jaws well. My only addition is that I use these jaws when I'm turning 1x1 spindles up to almost 18" in length.

[Dave Bunge]

Thanks John and Robert for the info on the smaller Nova jaws. I'll be getting some in the near future. Surprisingly, to me at least, homedepot.com had the lowest price by a decent margin vs other online vendors I checked.

[John K Jordan]

Thanks John and Robert for the info on the smaller Nova jaws. I'll be getting some in the near future. Surprisingly, to me at least, homedepot.com had the lowest price by a decent margin vs other online vendors I checked.

They do look cheaper. Or get the mini jaw set, four jaws for about $30 each and sell the extras to turners at your club. It does include step jaws but of the two types of step jaws Nova offers, they are the more useful.