Crosscut Sled Question

[Ed Gibbons]

Will be building a sled for my table saw. Some suggest 3/4” ply for the sled while others suggest 1/2”.

Recommendations & feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Pat Barry]

My most recent was a 1/2" BB plywood with doible miter slot tracks. I like it because it is stiff, lighter than 3/4" material I previously used and gives that little extra cutting depth.

[Carl Beckett]

My most recent was a 1/2" BB plywood with doible miter slot tracks. I like it because it is stiff, lighter than 3/4" material I previously used and gives that little extra cutting depth.

This was my last sled build as well, 1/2" Baltic Birch. For fixtures and add ons that will get a lot of use, I found using the higher quality plywood (BB) is a better overall experience.

The only caveat I have is that it was my third sled so I had a good idea of what I wanted the design to be. The previous two sleds with 3/4" shop grade plywood. They were heavy, but functioned fine.

[Nick Lazz]

Ed I built mine with 3/4”. I have built them in the past but this time I copied Nick Ferry’s plan. The hardware is a little expensive but it is a treat to use.
https://nickferry.com/2015/07/table-saw-cross-cut-miter-sled-in-one-ep58/

[Dick Mahany]

My latest cross cut sled is 1/2" Baltic birch. I routed slots and relieved the backside to take T-bolts since the thickness didn't allow for T-tracks. It is plenty strong enough with the 1/2" material and the lighter weight is a real plus for me.

400753

Years ago when I had a full size table saw, I built this version of a super-sled that I found somewhere on the internet. It was 3/4" MDO plywood and was a very capable cross cut sled, but it weighed enough that I barely used it.

400754

[Jim Becker]

Thinner has the advantage of less reduction in cut depth...your saw blade can only raise so much. If you use good quality material for this, you shouldn't have any issue at all using the .5" thick material for your sled. IMHO.

[Robert Engel]

I went with 1/2" on my last iteration.

One before that was 3/4 MDF. Too heavy!!

[Art Mann]

My first sled was 3/4". There have been many subsequent sleds and they have all been 1/2". That first sled was a lot heavier and the weight offered no additional benefits. Also, my first sled fence was made of oak. All subsequent sled fences have been made of poplar. Again, the heavier material offered me no additional benefit. One of these lighter sleds was built in about 2006 and it was still working well when I sold the saw in 2017. The only durability issue I have had with sleds is one I built with quarter sawn red oak runners. They became loose and sloppy over time.

Even my newest sled is too heavy for many applications. I am planning on building an ultra light sled that uses 1/4" material for small projects.

[Chris Schoenthal]

Like everyone else, my first couple of sleds were out of 3/4", but were heavy to use. More recently, I've used 1/2" and have 4 now. One large, one pretty small, a miter sled and a panel sled.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My latest one was made from 1/2" Baltic birch and based on the William Ng design using the 5 cut method of accurizing it.

[Eric Rinard]

Agree with everyone above. My current 3/4 is too heavy.
Will also be rebuilding with 1/2 for a standard and miter sled.

[Rege Sullivan]

The last sled I made was 3/4 on the back rail. Two pieces of 3/4 glued together on the front rail and 1/4 tempered hardboard, tempered side down. Works great and the rough surface helps hold stock in place. Won't last forever but none of mine do. If you use hardboard use construction adhesive not wood glue on the rough side. My only complaint... can't see a pencil Mark's very well.

[Andrew Joiner]

I made a big sled as a test. I used 1/8" plywood. It's as accurate as my old thick heavy sled. It's the one I use for everything now.

[Jim Allen]

The last sled I made was 3/4 on the back rail. Two pieces of 3/4 glued together on the front rail and 1/4 tempered hardboard, tempered side down. Works great and the rough surface helps hold stock in place. Won't last forever but none of mine do. If you use hardboard use construction adhesive not wood glue on the rough side. My only complaint... can't see a pencil Mark's very well.

I'd love to see a picture, sounds intriguing.

[Charlie Jones]

My last sled was 3/4 with a heavy oak fence. It worked great. I just built a 1/2 of Baltic Birch ply. I used 3 layers of 1/2 Baltic Birch ply for the fence.ay last sled had red oak runners and they were beginning to get sloppy. I am trying PVC for this new one.

[Keith Outten]

Consider 1/4" thick white PVC sheet for your sled. PVC is never affected by humidity and stays perfectly flat. Pencil marks wipe right off with a damp towel or cloth.

A couple years ago I built a sled for my band saw from 3/4" PVC which I had in my shop and it has been a great sled. If I ever build another sled I will use 1/4" PVC for less weight and 3/4" thick PVC for the fence, the stuff is really durable and PVC glue is pretty much a permanent bond for the fence. I'm using Corian Solid Surface material for the runners.

[julian abram]

Consider 1/4" thick white PVC sheet for your sled. PVC is never affected by humidity and stays perfectly flat. Pencil marks wipe right off with a damp towel or cloth.

A couple years ago I built a sled for my band saw from 3/4" PVC which I had in my shop and it has been a great sled. If I ever build another sled I will use 1/4" PVC for less weight and 3/4" thick PVC for the fence, the stuff is really durable and PVC glue is pretty much a permanent bond for the fence. I'm using Corian Solid Surface material for the runners.

Interesting, where can a fellow purchase 1/4" sheet PVC? Guess I'm a little surprised it is rigid enough for use as sled material. Learned something.

[Andrew Joiner]

Interesting, where can a fellow purchase 1/4" sheet PVC? Guess I'm a little surprised it is rigid enough for use as sled material. Learned something.
I thought thin would not be rigid enough as well. I found that as long as the base of the sled can hold the runner and the fence at 90 degrees it's accurate. Thinner sheet stock will flex more but conform to the flat machine surface easier. If a thicker sled gets bowed you must press down harder to flatten it.
My 1/8" sled has a slight bow to it that's consistent, so holding the stock down as you cut it makes the sled flat. It's very lightweight with a single UHMW runner. It can crosscut 38" accurately with only 1/8" for the offcut to drop. It's this design, but no sawhorse. I have a workbench support :
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4DwTlAk9glA/WkMwSVRb9OI/AAAAAAAACiY/ccyfVLdGs5wUOC2VG7p5k3Yavd2zJxcmACLcBGAs/s1600/FWW%2BSliding%2BTable.jpg

[Steve Demuth]

I have and value sleds made both from 1/2" baltic birch and 3/4". The 1/2" is smaller, light, and extremely handy. I like the large 3/4" one because I have embedded threaded inserts in it. It's rigid enough that I can use those to screw cam clamps down for holding small pieces. That way I can use it for some very awkward cuts, even on small pieces, safely. I really like the idea of the 1/4" PVC though.

[Mike Manning]

My latest one was made from 1/2" Baltic birch and based on the William Ng design using the 5 cut method of accurizing it.

What Ken said.

[glenn bradley]

Mine are all 3/4" BB ply. for the largest sled this is a weight issue. For the ones 30" wide and smaller it is not. If and when I re-make a larger sled I will try the 1/2" with slots and dado's for the t-bolt accessories. The t-track is all that really pushes me to the 3/4" material.

[Tom Bender]

I'm with Andrew, mine is 3/16" plywood. One hand to put it on or off. I have no idea why anyone would use 3/4" unless it was all that was available.