Seriously Considering Getting Rid of my Table Saw

[David Justice]

Has anyone done this? I have a SawStop, but it's big and I really don't use it that much. I use a track saw for all plywood cutting and for ripping long boards. Most other cuts I usually go to my band saw. Really thinking of selling the SawStop and getting a MFT table for the track saw. I think that this would cover all of my cuts.

Curious if anyone has gone this way and how it worked out?

[Doug Walls]

A friend of mine that works in the remodeling/construction trade & made one of the Paulk workbenches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt77_jugVZs&feature=player_embedded

He mainly built it for being able to take it to job sites, But when he's not using it he stores it up-right in the corner of his garage.

Doug

[Curt Harms]

If your bandsaw will work with a real carbide blade that may work. For me it wouldn't unless I upgraded my bandsaw (Rikon 10-325) to something like a Minimax. The Rikon, while it works very well will not produce cut as smooth as a table saw.

[Dick Mahany]

It depends on what type of work you typically do. I sold off my Unisaw and went the MFT / Tracksaw route when I down sized a few years ago. I regretted it big time after building a large entertainment/media wall.. I missed the ability to easily and repeatably rip narrow stock for face frames, mill dados and conveniently cut small parts for boxes and small cases. Since I don't have room for a full size table saw without getting rid of several other tools, I went with the DeWalt portable on a rolling stand. Much happier now. My bandsaw also factored into that decision, but it just wasn't the answer for what I do.

I know others have parted with their table saw and haven't missed it, but it didn't work for me.

400752

[Jeff Heath]

Maybe the best way for you to find out is to throw a cloth over the top of your saw, and put a piece of plywood over it, and use it for a cutting table. I wouldn't want to be without my table saw. After 30 years plus, I'm just too use to having one. I do a lot of fast joinery, dado's, etc....using it, and while I could certainly figure out another way of doing each and every function, it wouldn't be as fast. I also have a Festool track saw, and use it to break down sheet goods. Instead of spending all of that money on the Festool table, I made a set of horses at the right height, and put a 3/4" sheet of plywood on them. On top of the plywood, I lay a 1" sheet of polystyrene foam. The foam cushions the bottom of the ply (sometimes very expensive A grade stuff) from scratches, and also acts as a sacrificial surface to keep from cutting up my table. After 6 months or so, when it's all used up, I replace it for $10.

Shut your saw down, and give it a try. That'll tell you whether or not you can go without.

[Carl Beckett]

My brother did this and it suited him just fine to use the bandsaw. He is primarily a hand tool woodworker though.

I like the idea of just 'going without' using it for a while (make it into a layout table) and see....

[Simon MacGowen]

Shut your saw down, and give it a try. That'll tell you whether or not you can go without.

This is the best approach in my view, unless your sawstop has been in an idle state for a long time.

Simon

[Randy Heinemann]

I, too, would suggest trying to go without using the SawStop for awhile before selling it. I dumped my old tablesaw and went to a track saw several years ago. This wasn't a big deal for me since the old tablesaw was really difficult because the tablesaw was, in fact, old, the arbor had too much wobble in it, and it was underpowered to begin with. I found, after a year or so, that ripping with a tracksaw was difficult no matter which of the many methods available I used. I ended up buying a job site saw for these jobs and it works well for the smaller stuff.

I guess, If I had owned a good tablesaw at the time, I would likely have just continued to use it because I feel it is still one of the most universally useful power tools in the shop. So, I wouldn't sell it just yet until I tried to go without using at all.

[Jay Kepley]

I've thought about the approach you're considering, but I'm going to keep my table saw. If your SS has casters, couldn't you store it in a corner, then pull it out when you need it? I know I would regret getting rid of it. The tool I want to get rid of is the SCMS. It takes up too much room, and it is a terrible dust creator. It seems to me that an MFT arrangement (either the MFT/3 or a DIY MFT) with a track saw would be a possible replacement at least for something 2" or less. I've got a small Hitachi 10" CMS that is very accurate that I could use when necessary. Good luck with your decision.

[Richard Coers]

Since the track saw came on the market, this subject comes up very frequently. Surprised you couldn't formulate an answer from all the previous discussions. It's all personal preference. No way can I do any woodworking without a table saw. Center of the shop, gets used 100 times more than every other machine. Track saw collects a lot of sawdust from just sitting in the corner.

[Jeff Booth]

I agree with the previous poster, I have all of the other toys but the table saw is the center of all of my activities. No board ever makes it onto a project without going through my table saw, often half a dozen times.

[Simon MacGowen]

A friend of mine that works in the remodeling/construction trade & made one of the Paulk workbenches

Doug

Holy smoke. That workbench seems to take up more space than a sawstop ics! His shop sure has tons of space.

If I remember correctly, he also has a sawstop jobsite saw.

Simon

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, most of my work is solid material so I could eliminate the table saw.

The band saw allows you to process rough material into pieces that can be dimensioned with a jointer and planer.

My panel processing would normally be limited to panels for frame and panel doors and gables, so hand saw accuracy would be as good as I would need.

Grooving and rebating I do on the shaper so I really could do without a table saw if I bought a track saw and a mitre saw.

As others have suggested, lower the blade and remove the guard from your saw, use it a s table for a few months and see what you think.........Rod.

[Andrew Seemann]

It may work for you, but it would not work for me. I primarily use my table saw to rip medium size parts, like table legs, stretchers, drawer fronts, and also to make small pieces. I can't imagine trying to do that on a track saw. It sounds inaccurate at best and terrifying at worst. A bandsaw doesn't have the accuracy or finish I am looking for either.

[Brian Hall]

late 90's I sold my delta tilting arbor saw and bought a unisaw with 50" fence. the unisaw was just too big for garage and sold it.. 20 years later I am still without a table saw.


I miss that tilting arbor

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Shut your saw down, and give it a try. That'll tell you whether or not you can go without.

Excellent suggestion! Try it!

[Peter Kuhlman]

I sold my cabinet saw when moving and going to a small basement shop. Have a Dewalt DW7491? Job site saw that collapses nicely and use that for all my ripping needs. I can’t imagine doing narrow ripping any other way than on a table saw of some sort. All other cuts are with my Festool track saw mostly on a MFT/3 or on saw horses.

[Charles Lent]

Get rid of my table saw? The tool that I use most often in my shop?

I've thought long and hard about this, since track saws became available, but I came to the conclusion that I just prefer having the ability to do everything the way that I have done it all my life versus learning new ways to do everything that I'm doing now on my table saw some other way is just not something that I want to do. I've gone through 5 table saws in my life starting with one that would never cut anything straight, to finally getting a Unisaw that seems to be more accurate than I could ever hope for, and then selling it off to start using a track saw and other tools and learning new ways to do everything that I've always done on a table saw just isn't going to happen in my remaining lifetime. At 77 it's too late in my life to try.

No thanks, I'm keeping my 40 year old 3rd owner used Unisaw and Wixey DRO. Track saws have a purpose, and so do the rest of my woodworking tools, but I still try to use whatever tool will do the best for each purpose, and I don't feel that anything can totally replace my Unisaw.

Charley

[Ben Rivel]

Get the MFT first, try it out a bit and THEN decide if you can live without your SawStop.

[lowell holmes]

I will not give up my contractor's saw. I really value being able to make absolutely square cuts. I can do it on my band saw but I prefer the table saw.
I have a plywood track that I can use skill saw on. It works pretty much like a track saw.

[Keith Outten]

I haven't used my table saw for a couple years. Depending on your needs its possible to never miss a table saw and some will always say its impossible. For me the door closed on my table saw when I got my Felder FB 610 band saw. Smaller band saws I have had in the past could never retire my table saw but the FB 610 will rip lumber, plastics and any other material I use faster then a table saw and its a lot safer. I own a track saw but I only use it when I am off site. I do have a panel saw though that takes care of breaking down large sheets.

Basically I have alternative ways of working without a table saw that are convenient and safer.

[Andrew Hughes]

I also use my bandsaw a lot more then my tablesaw and I really like my tablesaw.The thing that sways me away from the table saw is the 1/8 saw kerf is huge compared to a bandsaws kerf. 2 cuts is a 1/4 inch :eek:
I have a Rk blade on my bandsaw and the kerf is really small i must be getting frugal?

[Brian Holcombe]

I have never had a table saw in my workshop. It’s an easy tool to replace for ripping, I prefer to use a bandsaw for that. Everything I rip to size is edged in the planer, so I have perfectly parallel edges. It’s not an easy tool to replace for accurate crosscuts. Track saws can do it with the right additional equipment. SCMS’s are not accurate enough to really replace it. Radial arm saws might be accurate enough.

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm a serious hobbyist and I upgraded table saws as I could afford it and ended up with a new 3HP Unisaw. In our kitchen remodel I made many/many cabinet frames and raised panel doors and found I used my track saw for about 90% of the cuts so I sold my TS. Six months later I bought that small Bosch bench top since I found I really needed a TS in my shop. Then one afternoon I got lucky and found a 1950 Uni for $150 on CL - sold the bench top. Completely restored the Uni with my youngest son. It doesn't get used a lot but runs smoother that any TS I've had and another advantage is the table top on this older saw is smaller that the new ones so it doesn't take up much space in the shop.

[Jim Chan]

When I first started woodworking, I thought I didn't want a tablesaw due to the inherent danger and space. Bought an mft and ts75. A year later, after being frustrated with the accuracy and inability to cut small or narrow pieces, I ended up with a used powermatic saw. The mft was converted into an outfeed for my tablesaw, with the protractor/rail bits tossed to the wayside. I still use the tracksaw to break down sheet goods, but refine them on the ts. In my experience, the mft cannot match a ts for versatility, accuracy, repeatability, or speed. Try cutting joinery like dovetails, box joints, grooves, dadoes, with an mft. Need to sneak up on a cut and take a few thou off? have fun. (I like hand tools for that, but sometimes it's just faster to do while your standing at the ts) You can rip narrow stuff on the bandsaw, but refining on the jointer and planer is another step that just takes time. I have a minimax, which I love, but even with a resaw king it still needs a bit of cleaning up. Plus you'll probably waste more material compared to a thin kerf ts blade if you aren't careful with getting rid of drift.

Anyway, I think the mft guide was a waste of money and I haven't used it in 10 years. The table itself is useful, but if I had the experience I have now, I wouldn't spend 700 for that. I recently built a paulk inspired bench with storage for my power tools and love it. The larger surface area let's me cut full width sheet goods with parf dogs, something you cant do with the mft because it's too small. Also as a general workbench, its wobbly as all get out. Years ago I solved that problem by building a 6in thick, 8 foot roubo lol. My poor mft has been relegated to a place to stack wood while I cut it on the ts. :)400946

[Simon MacGowen]

My poor mft has been relegated to a place to stack wood while I cut it on the ts. :)400946

Your experience is echoed by many. Woodpeckers, TSO etc. came up with expensive solutions for tracksaw and MFT users to solve all kinds of problems that can be handled with ease on a tablesaw, but many tracksaw users using the after-market accessories will tell you they are "happy." Their tools , their money, who is to complain?

To suggest that the bandsaw can do the job of a tablesaw is like saying a handsaw can do the job of a tablesaw. A bandsaw can do some of the tasks of a tablesaw and vice versa, but they don't replace one another. You have given some good examples why a tracksaw +MFT can't fulfill the functions of a tablesaw, some of them, like dados, are also impossible to be done with a bandsaw.

A woodturner may never need a tablesaw, but it does not mean any other woodworker should turn their tablesaws into an assembly table.

Simon

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I bought a track saw and ditched the table saw. A month later, I was looking for a new table saw. The track saw doesn’t work well with narrow stock. I still prefer it for ripping and for dimensioning plywood, but I need a tablesaw.

[Edwin Santos]

What do you hope to gain by ditching your table saw? Space? Money?

I generally feel that even if a tool gets used only once in a while, it's worth having, especially now that you own it. I admit the table saw is not my favorite tool, but it is my go-to for precise mitering, precise crosscutting and I tend to use a dado set a lot. Today I need to cut some 1/4" dadoes at a 8 degree angle. It would be a huge pain to try and jig up the router table to do that whereas the tilting arbor on the table saw makes it very easy. What about non-through cuts and rabbeting where one cut is with the workpiece on edge? I don't think there is a way to do that with a track saw. What about tenon shoulders?

I can assure you, the week after you get rid of your table saw, you'll need to make some of these cuts and you will keep thinking about how easy it would have been with your table saw and it will drive you mad. Murphy's law.
My $.02.
Edwin

[Bryan Lisowski]

I tried ditching my table saw for a track saw, and decided to keep. I found narrow stock to be a problem, I also thought if you just need to shave a bit off the track saw wasn't a solid option. The only way I would get rid of the table saw would be if I had 2 bandsaws and was doing more hand tool work.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Has anyone done this? I have a SawStop, but it's big and I really don't use it that much. I use a track saw for all plywood cutting and for ripping long boards. Most other cuts I usually go to my band saw. Really thinking of selling the SawStop and getting a MFT table for the track saw. I think that this would cover all of my cuts.

Curious if anyone has gone this way and how it worked out?

Around 25 years ago I purchased my first table saw: a contractor saw that was replaced last year for a newer contractor saw just to complement my (hand) power saw and an aluminum guide turning it functionally my "track saw".

I have a small shop with only 104 square foot. Unfortunately I did not have space for the dreamed slide saw I would like have so my "second best solution" is just a small contractor saw and my power saw guided by an heavy duty alu guide. When using the power saw I prefer to work on the garage only to cut the wood.

Bottom line: if you can afford the price and space, go to a "seriously decent sized" stationary saw, otherwise you will survive with a power saw. A small (good quality) contractor saw can be a welcome "luxury" for some situations.

[Rod Sheridan]

It may work for you, but it would not work for me. I primarily use my table saw to rip medium size parts, like table legs, stretchers, drawer fronts, and also to make small pieces. I can't imagine trying to do that on a track saw. It sounds inaccurate at best and terrifying at worst. A bandsaw doesn't have the accuracy or finish I am looking for either.

Hi, rip oversize on the band saw, then joint and plane to final dimension. Saw finish is irrelevant as the jointer/planer gets you to correct size, I almost never rip surfaced material.

It's just a different manner of working............Rod.

Crosscutting would be done with a mitre saw

[David Justice]

Wow, tons of good advice here! I am more of a hand tool guy, but I do use machines for breaking down and dimensioning lumber. I don't know why, but I just have always felt very uncomfortable ripping with a table saw, so I alway use my bandsaw. I also use my bandsaw for most crosscuts, then square them up with a shooting board.

Space and that fact that I don't use it much are my motivations for selling. Since I started considering it, I have really been paying attention to how much I use it. My last build was 2 maple end tables and I used the table saw exactly twice. To cut the legs and the top to final length. I could have done both of these with the band saw/shooting board method. I suspect that I used the table saw to save time.

I have thrown a piece of MDF over the saw and am going to use it for the next few months as a work table and see how much/if I miss it.

Thanks all for the advice!

[Matthew Hills]

Sounds like this will be a good experiment, and might work given your description of how you work now.
Please do post your thoughts after some time like this.
(most of these threads lack a conclusion)

Matt