Jet 1642 EVS problem

[Jenny Trice]

So quickly things change! This morning I was looking for advice on a new chuck but as I went to my shop to do some turning today, a much bigger problem has surfaced.

The display is lit with power plugged in but when I pull the red switch and/or increase the speed dial, the lathe does not turn. I will also add that I have recently seen small instances of this problem but it hasn't persisted like it is now.

I have been reading the previous forum posts and it looks like the likely culprits are the switch itself (due to dust) or maybe the inverter.

I opened up the panel and detached the switch and blew compressed air in there to clean out any dust. No change.

My biggest question is what am I chasing? For those who have had switch issues, is this the typical symptom? Should the digital display be lit if the switch is bad?

If it is the switch, do I need to use a Jet part? I saw someone else post that they replaced the switch with a sealed one. Looks like Jet wants to sell the whole switch assembly with the red push pull knob too. Not sure I need that, especially at $90.

If it is not the switch, what else might it be? I did try the reset button on the inverter. No change.

Anything else I can do to try to troubleshoot?

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jenny, have you unplugged the lathe for 10 minutes? Sometimes just allowing it to power down, then power back up after voltages have bled off can work.

Also, I will need your email address for the PDF you requested.

[Dwight Rutherford]

What does the VFD read? The problem could also be the potentiometer (speed dial). An electrician with a multimeter should be able to determine where the problem is. If you need to replace the switch or the potentiometer, they can be found at a Grainger store for considerably less than what Jet wants. If your problem is the inverter, I bought one on E-Bay for $100. It needed to be programmed for my Jet which was relatively easy. Should you need the programming codes, I have them and am happy to share.

[Jenny Trice]

VFD says 0. If I rotate the spindle by hand, the VFD goes up.

[John K Jordan]

I had to take the switch out, take it apart, and clean out the dust. Don't do this over shavings or you may lose a small ball bearing and spring. After cleaning, I sealed the switch well to prevent future problems. I did this maybe 10 years ago.

You could (carefully) test to see if it's the switch by shorting across the contacts. By careful, I mean careful with the rotation - the switch itself only has a few volts on it.

JKJ



So quickly things change! This morning I was looking for advice on a new chuck but as I went to my shop to do some turning today, a much bigger problem has surfaced.

The display is lit with power plugged in but when I pull the red switch and/or increase the speed dial, the lathe does not turn. I will also add that I have recently seen small instances of this problem but it hasn't persisted like it is now.

I have been reading the previous forum posts and it looks like the likely culprits are the switch itself (due to dust) or maybe the inverter.

I opened up the panel and detached the switch and blew compressed air in there to clean out any dust. No change.

My biggest question is what am I chasing? For those who have had switch issues, is this the typical symptom? Should the digital display be lit if the switch is bad?

If it is the switch, do I need to use a Jet part? I saw someone else post that they replaced the switch with a sealed one. Looks like Jet wants to sell the whole switch assembly with the red push pull knob too. Not sure I need that, especially at $90.

If it is not the switch, what else might it be? I did try the reset button on the inverter. No change.

Anything else I can do to try to troubleshoot?

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

[Jenny Trice]

I went and got a toggle switch at the hardware store and was able to get the lathe to run. That gives me confidence that the switch is the problem.

Thanks for the responses. Now I will consider your remote switch Steve. Hopefully you got my email in the PM.

[Jenny Trice]

John, seeing your comment makes me wonder if I am misinterpreting all who have blown dust out with compressed air. Is it the push button side of the switch or the electronic part that is most likely the culprit? I was assuming it is the electronic part and about to order a new one.

[Dwight Rutherford]

The complete switch can be ordered on E-Bay for about $10. The electrical portion is about $7.

[Jenny Trice]

More than a bit ridiculous that Jet wants $90 for it.

[John K Jordan]

John, seeing your comment makes me wonder if I am misinterpreting all who have blown dust out with compressed air. Is it the push button side of the switch or the electronic part that is most likely the culprit? I was assuming it is the electronic part and about to order a new one.

I took the back of the switch apart. I did this a LONG time ago so I don't remember many details about how it came apart or went back together.
There was a lot of dust inside and it prevented the contacts from closing properly. Cleaning out the dust (with brush and gentle air) and cleaning the contacts lightly with 1000 grit paper fixed it. When working on a switch I always put a light film of dielectric grease on the contacts and any other moving parts to lube and protect from corrosion.

Blowing air anywhere on the outside of the switch probably won't do much.

This is the third Jet switch I've repaired, the other two on Jet mini lathes (completely different construction). I've repaired a lot of switches over the years, not especially difficult unless there are broken parts inside. Most are simple contact problems.

As mentioned, this is a low voltage switch. Almost any switch could be substituted rather than buy a crazy-priced new one from Jet. It's intended to be a safety switch to turn the lathe off in an emergency. Generic safety switches are widely available and any would work.

JKJ

[Steve Schlumpf]

Any progress??

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The complete switch can be ordered on E-Bay for about $10. The electrical portion is about $7.

What did you search for? I've tried and got lots of options.
Thanks!

[Dwight Rutherford]

The actual part number of the electrical switch is ZB2-BE102. Use that to search E-Bay.

[Jenny Trice]

I'm back in the work week mode (not yet one of you lucky retirees). I ordered a new switch (just the electrical part) but will also pursue cleaning the original better. I like the 1000 grit sandpaper option. One of those two solutions should do the trick. I did not find much dust in the switch area when I opened it up and blew with compressed air. The contacts on the switch look very slightly discolored (black). I will let you know when I get it fixed. Steve, not sure I will go the remote switch route at this time. Maybe another day or if this switch continues to be troublesome.

[John K Jordan]

Do you have a multimeter (VOM, Volt Ohm meter)? If so, put it in the Ohm or Continuity mode if it has one and test across the terminals on the back and see if they turn on and off. If using the ohm meter setting the reading will go from very high/infinity to about zero if the switch contacts are making contact. If there is a continuity mode it will probably beep. This still doesn't prove that the switch can handle the electrical load under power, but if not making contact that would be the first thing to find and correct. I apologize if you know all this but some people don't and putting it all down saves playing 20 questions.

Switch contacts are usually OK but may be dirty. Very rarely a switch will have burned up contacts, usually a result of some resistance due to oxidation or something at the contact points which gets hot and worse under power. If the sandpaper makes the contacts look clean and you show continuity with the meter things should be OK (assuming no springs or other pieces are broken or missing.) BTW, go easy with sandpaper since some switch contacts have a very thin plating of a highly conductive and protective metal over steel and if you sand through that the steel underneath can start to corrode. If the contacts are in place and I can get to them OK I sometimes clean gently with a folded piece of the finest paper in the shop, pushed between the contacts and pulled out again. If the contacts are removed from the housing, 0000 steel wool, the 1000-1500 grit sandpaper, a pencil eraser, or even a piece of brown paper bag should clean them unless then are pitted from corrosion or electrical arcing/burning.

If the switch contacts are working OK, before closing it up I recommend putting a small smear of dielectric grease on the contacts. Just put a tiny smear on the finger and wipe it on each contact or if in place in the switch put some on a slip of paper and slide it between the contacts. Dielectric grease is available in small tubes at any auto parts store for cheap. It's really not any different from any silicone grease so that will work as well. You don't need a lot, just enough to lubricate and keep the oxygen and any humidity away from the metal.

Lucky retirees? It's a terrible burden to have to get up in the morning when you want to, do what you want to, and go where you want to IF you want to. I usually get up about 4 or 5am, get to go out and feed the animals, haul hay, shovel manure, trim trees, and such so every morning is a Monday morning! (Been retired for 12 years now)

JKJ


I'm back in the work week mode (not yet one of you lucky retirees). I ordered a new switch (just the electrical part) but will also pursue cleaning the original better. I like the 1000 grit sandpaper option. One of those two solutions should do the trick. I did not find much dust in the switch area when I opened it up and blew with compressed air. The contacts on the switch look very slightly discolored (black). I will let you know when I get it fixed. Steve, not sure I will go the remote switch route at this time. Maybe another day or if this switch continues to be troublesome.

[Jenny Trice]

Thanks John. I do have a multimeter and will do some further exploration when the weekend rolls around. I appreciate you taking the time to detail how to check it and will also pick up some dielectric grease. It sounds like you have a busy day every day in retirement, if you want to.

[John K Jordan]

It sounds like you have a busy day every day in retirement, if you want to.

Yes, plenty to do, never get bored! But I still have plenty of time, maybe because I haven't watched any TV for at least 13 years. Today I had a shop woodturning visitor for about 6 hours. By regularly forgetting to eat lunch I avoid a lot of calories. By heaving bales of hay and herding peacocks I get a more than my fair share of exercise, a real help since I'm pushing 70.

Good luck with your switch!

JKJ

[Jenny Trice]

Thanks to all who offered advice on this topic. I got a replacement switch (electronic part) and the lathe is back up and running like a new one. Total cost ~$8.