Problem with steam bending jointed panel

[Michael Losonsky]

I matched and jointed two 1/8" thick 8" wide panels for a
speaker. One of the panels needs to be bent because the
speaker curves toward the back. The wood is figured Oregon Big
Leaf Maple and I judged that I need steam to bend it so
I fixed a panel jig to bend it and all that went well. The problem
is that the bent panel has a crook and doesn't line up with
the other panel. The 2 options I can think of are
1) joint that panel again, which is a hassle because the panel
is bent and the match would be off a bit.
2) kerf bending the panels instead of steam bending, but I worry
the panel will split because it is already 1/8 inch thin.

Any other options?.

[Jamie Buxton]

One fix is to glue curved ribs to the panel to force it into the correct shape. You can hide the ribs inside the box, or apply them outside and call them decoration.

[Peter Christensen]

I would be tempted to buy some maple veneer, some figured for the show areas and plane for the core and insides. I'd laminate them on a form under vacuum or because they are not wide with bungees or surgical rubber tubing.

[Michael Losonsky]

I think need to explain more Here it is dry clamped. The curved panel is
on left:
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Here it is at the top. The right panel is true but the
left panel is flush at the top and bottom only:
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But as you see below not in the middle: The crook is on the left panel.
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Here is my bending jig:
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[Jim Morgan]

Is the curved panel laying flat on the substrate from side to side when it is clamped? If it is standing proud in places, this could cause the sort of gapping you observe. You can use wedges underneath the band to focus clamping force on problem areas.

Tape across the joint (with reinforced packing tape or the like) to pull it tight before you clamp.

[Bradley Gray]

what about a ribbed sled for the table saw? With the proper blade tilt you could control the cut more than jointing.

[Michael Losonsky]

It is flat on the substrate. Basically what happened with the bending is that
it stretched out the middle to the side, sort of like when you roll out dough and
roll out more in the middle :)

[Michael Losonsky]

what about a ribbed sled for the table saw? With the proper blade tilt you could control the cut more than jointing.

That is a great suggestion. Much easier to control the cut. That's what I will do unless I find a way to avoid the crook while bending. I was wondering about
blocks on either side of the jig the width of the panel to keep the shape. Isn';t that the role of the blocks on a steel belt when you bend curves for chair backs,
etc.?

[Bradley Gray]

The end blocks on a steel backing strap are to keep the wood being bent in compression. Your situation is different because you are bending across the grain. Bending is not an exact process (for me anyway). I think you will need to trim after bending.

[Pat Barry]

I would try to hand plane the high spots on the edges in order to get a better fit. From the pictures this would seem the best solution. Just mark the high spots, trim them carefully with a shatp handplane taking thin shavings, repeat as needed.

[Michael Losonsky]

I think I have my answer. Bending is not an exact process, and I need to do the final
jointing with a plane or tablesaw after bending. Thanks everyone!!

[Tom Bender]

Steam it again. It will flatten out in the steam box. Adjust your form to add the extra bend where you need it.

[Michael Losonsky]

The bend is fine. The problem is that there is a crook in what started out as a perfect joint. So
whereas before the two panels where perfectly flush, now the bent panel is not flush anymore
but curves away in the middle.