Table saw featherboard hold downs?

[Dennis McCullen]

I have not come across this, but cannot think of a good reason why it should not be done. Please, if you know of any safety, practical, or other reason NOT to do this, share your knowledge. After successfully making a few wood featherboards for different purposes, I am wondering about gluing a few featherboards, say 6" wide, to a piece of plywood that can be attached to the table saw fence. The plywood can be slotted to allow for varying wood thickness. The idea is to provide a continuous light downward pressure downward toward the table and possibly helping to prevent kickback. I've seen featherboards used before and after the blade for downward pressure, but why not through the cut also? I realize it gets in the way of a push stick which would have to be used further away from the saw's fence, but the notched push shoe I currently used could easily be used 1-1/2 to 2" away from the fence. I have an older saw with no riving knife and the overhead splitter wobbles around to the point of being scary. I commonly use a Magswitch to apply side pressure toward the fence and only ahead of the blade.

[Lee Schierer]

There is no reason why you can't mount a feather board on the fence right where the cutting action is taking place. However as you pointed out pushing the piece through the cut can be a problem. There are several commercially available fence mounted feather board systems, so you don't have to reinvent them on your own. Just google fence mounted feather boards.

Kick back is usually caused by poor saw alignment or poor technique. If you haven't already done it, take the time to align your saw with a dial indicator. The blade should be aligned to the miter slot and so should the fence. Also make sure you saw blade is raised above the piece being cut at least high enough for the bottom of the gullets to be clear of the wood surface. Never use the fence to cross cut a piece that is wider than the face that is riding against the fence.

[Bill Space]

Hi,

I do do something like that all the time. Also have a flat blade guard I attach that extends out over the blade, not shown in this picture.

Sorry about the picture orientation. Tried rotating it several times before uploading but it stayed 90 degrees off all then time.

Edit: When cutting narrow pieces like this I use a dowel rod to push the piece past the blade...

400188

( also on preview looks like I was not able to delete the extra photos :confused: )

You have to click on Edit and then go to advanced settings to delete excess photos. To fix your photo orientation I downloaded the file opened it in "Windows live photo gallery", rotated it and up loaded it back to the site.

[Robert Engel]

I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc. From experience I will say kickback is 99% operator error. However, a misaligned fence can be another cause. Taking time to read your lumber prior to cutting is very important. Another common mistake is having the blade too far above the lumber. One of the highest risk operations for kickback is cutting 1/4" plywood. Gotta be on your toes working with this.

A push block accomplishes what you're after re: holding material down. It also pushes both sides of the cut through the blade (very important!!).

Not intending to be critical, but WADR IMO the set up pictured by Bill is unnecessary. Pulling the material through rather than sticking a dowel rod next to a spinning blade would be much safer, too.

If you're interested I'll tell you how I make this cut safely, accurately, and much quicker using a guide stick and push block.

Dennis, I strongly recommend you install a splitter that actually works on your saw ASAP. I use the MicroJig splitter and it works fine. Your saw will be safer and more accurate.

[glenn bradley]

I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc.

This is my use also particularly for thinner or larger stock like sheet goods. The tablesaw table is (hopefully) very flat so the difference in groove depth caused by an irregular surface (like plywood) or poor stock control can be problematic. Pressure right over TDC on the blade helps with this. For through cuts I use them before and (sometimes) after the blade.

[Bill Space]

I've never seen a reason to do that other than hold down for rabbets, grooves, etc. From experience I will say kickback is 99% operator error. However, a misaligned fence can be another cause. Taking time to read your lumber prior to cutting is very important. Another common mistake is having the blade too far above the lumber. One of the highest risk operations for kickback is cutting 1/4" plywood. Gotta be on your toes working with this.

A push block accomplishes what you're after re: holding material down. It also pushes both sides of the cut through the blade (very important!!).

Not intending to be critical, but WADR IMO the set up pictured by Bill is unnecessary. Pulling the material through rather than sticking a dowel rod next to a spinning blade would be much safer, too.

If you're interested I'll tell you how I make this cut safely, accurately, and much quicker using a guide stick and push block.

Dennis, I strongly recommend you install a splitter that actually works on your saw ASAP. I use the MicroJig splitter and it works fine. Your saw will be safer and more accurate.

Robert, I understand where you are coming from. Can’t argued that ripping on the table saw the way I often do takes more time to set up, but especially for thin strips less than 1/2 inch it is very good.

But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.

I use use push blocks all the time. Anything that keeps one’s hands well away from the blade are highly recommended.

Keep in in mind the original question related to home shop use. Time is not critical as it is in a commercial shop.

All things condidered, the OP’s question is a valid one. As you pointed out, issues like a defective splitter should be addressed immediately. And the table saw should be set up properly. No question there.

From my experience I cannot see how doing what the OP proposed would be a negative safety wise. Time wise might be, but that is likely a non issue.

[andy bessette]

Magnetic feathering boards easily solve this "problem". Been using these for decades without a problem.

[Jon Wolfe]

I've recently built a small "jig" for a featherboard along the fence. I already use featherboards on the left of the blade on the tabletop and I have a splitter and blade guard that I use as often as possible. I only use one along the fence slightly behind the blade and it helps hold down the board tremendously while still allowing me to use a pushstick.

My table isn't set up at the moment but you can see the jig pretty well in these pics. It is just sitting on top of my bandsaw table for the pic.
I use two 1/4 20 bolts so I can slide it along the t-track in the top of my fence and I have a second set of through holes that allow me to cut boards that are taller than the amount the featherboard will adjust. I love it.

Jon in Texas
400186400187

[Lee Schierer]

Hi,

I do do something like that all the time. Also have a flat blade guard I attach that extends out over the blade, not shown in this picture.

Sorry about the picture orientation. Tried rotating it several times before uploading but it stayed 90 degrees off all then time.

Edit: When cutting narrow pieces like this I use a dowel rod to push the piece past the blade...

400188

Note that you can remove the first grey feather board attached to your fence if you use the black "L" shaped piece on your Grip Tite Feater board to do the exact same thing. Then you will have less stuff in the way of making your cut. For pushing pieces past the blade I prefer this type of push stick which holds down as it pushes.

[Dennis McCullen]

Magnetic feathering boards easily solve this "problem". Been using these for decades without a problem.
I love the MagSwitch I use ahead of the blade; it just doesn't work on the aluminum fence I have.

[Dennis McCullen]

Thanks, Lee. The set up I'm picturing would have wooden featherboard 1/2" thick all along the fence attached to a nice chunk of 2X lumber that attaches to the top of the fence with hex bolts and knobs. I actually believe the long featherboard would be best attached with machine screws so there are no knobs in the way of pushing through the cut. My push "shoe" I call it is close to that pictured, notched at the bottom and applies downward pressure. I've used it safely for decades and made a couple for giveaways to newbies.

[Lee Schierer]

I love the MagSwitch I use ahead of the blade; it just doesn't work on the aluminum fence I have.

Grip Tite offered a steel fence plate that attaches to the fence so their magnetic feather boards can be mounted on the fence. They also had a neat roller system that would exert down pressure and also was biased to pull the work piece toward the fence. I have one on my saw and use it all the time.
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[Dennis McCullen]

400570So this is what I have for a prototype. The 1/2" fir and the bolt head let me pass a push "shoe" within 3/4" of the fence. I thought I'd try this just aft the blade. I bought some plastic featherboards and mounted three of them onto a 2x bolted to the top of the fence. I didn't much care for the knobs sticking out an extra 1-1/8" over this. Thanks to all who contributed; we all need all the safety we can get. Things can happen very quickly; we just need to make sure they are only good things.

[Robert Engel]

But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.
Please explain how, with all the feather boards you have there?

[Jon Wolfe]

Looks great Dennis.
I agree about safety.
I think i might disagree about the good things happening quickly though, in my shop they seem to take forever. ;)
Jon

[andy bessette]

I don't want anything on my fence that prevents me from wrapping my hand around it while I feed material.

[Shiraz Balolia]

These two videos might give you some ideas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ5RG1hnM1M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N92KeVWuE2c

[Derek Cohen]

I have not come across this, but cannot think of a good reason why it should not be done. Please, if you know of any safety, practical, or other reason NOT to do this, share your knowledge. After successfully making a few wood featherboards for different purposes, I am wondering about gluing a few featherboards, say 6" wide, to a piece of plywood that can be attached to the table saw fence. The plywood can be slotted to allow for varying wood thickness. The idea is to provide a continuous light downward pressure downward toward the table and possibly helping to prevent kickback. I've seen featherboards used before and after the blade for downward pressure, but why not through the cut also? I realize it gets in the way of a push stick which would have to be used further away from the saw's fence, but the notched push shoe I currently used could easily be used 1-1/2 to 2" away from the fence. I have an older saw with no riving knife and the overhead splitter wobbles around to the point of being scary. I commonly use a Magswitch to apply side pressure toward the fence and only ahead of the blade.

I did this with my previous table saw. It worked very well ...

https://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Power%20Tools/Tablesaw1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4xrkQGvw/Resaw-fence4-zpsnwzme11c.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

Quote Originally Posted by Bill Space View Post
But I will take exception with you recommendation to reach beyond the blade and pull material through. Where I come from this is a Cardinal sin to be avoided. Accident waiting to happen.


Please explain how, with all the feather boards you have there?

Are we here talking about two persons handling the rip, with the helper at the exit end pulling the stock?

I would not recommend doing the pulling if it is just one operator working the saw for two good reasons. The operator has to walk around the table to pull if it is a long piece, and he or she is likely trying to do it quickly which, depending on how well the shop is maintained, could subject himself or herself to tripping in a hurry. Second, the chance of burns on the stock is higher as the blade and wood's contact prolongs.

If it is a short piece, reaching behind and pulling it as Bill pointed out is a big NO NO. Anyone who has a habit of doing that better do himself or herself a favor and get a SawStop. No kidding. That habit is like playing the Russian Roulette. There are many well-documented tablesaw injuries when people tried to reach behind a spinning blade...

Simon

[Bill Space]

I think Simon summed it up well...:)

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

Bill

[Dennis McCullen]

Excellent point, Andy. I'm sure folks would cringe to see me feed stock without the latest way of Gripping, BUT I am accustomed to anchoring my precious right hand by wrapping one or two fingers over the fence, attempting to make pulling that hand into the blade more difficult.
I don't want anything on my fence that prevents me from wrapping my hand around it while I feed material.

[Dennis McCullen]

I did this with my previous table saw. It worked very well … Looks like carriage bolts worked well for giving you more space than any knobs.

https://i.postimg.cc/4xrkQGvw/Resaw-fence4-zpsnwzme11c.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Looks like carriage bolts worked well for giving you more space than any knobs.

[Robert Engel]

I think Simon summed it up well...:)

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

BillI agree reaching behind the blade is a definite no no. But I'm talking about standing behind the saw and pulling material through. My point was with all the superfluous featherboards there is no way to push material through the blade so he resorts to sticking a dowel in there to push the board?

Personally I don't ever pull wood through a cut because I don't ever need to.

I will stand by my opinion that it is overkill. But if you're a bit scared of the machine, by all means use whatever safety devices make you comfortable.

I rarely every use a featherboard to hold a board down. The push block does that. I do occasionally use a magnetic featherboard to keep thin material pressed against the fence or when making cuts with material held vertically like a raised panel.

IMO something like Derek's setup + a riving knife + push block + grey matter between the ears is all you need. :o

[Dan Rude]

I used to do this with feather boards, but bought the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides. They are somwhat expensive, but well worth it. Dave Stanton, does a great review of them and the router table guides. He also made a jig to hold them, saw it after I had drilled and taped my fence on my Sawstop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMYbMbTJdH0 Dan

[Tim Andrews]

Dennis, I like your design and think it’s another step in safety. I’m going to do something similar.

[Chris Parks]

I think Simon summed it up well...:)

As a matter habit I never reach behind the blade ( or over it) regardless of how many feather boards and guards I have in place. Only because I realize if I develop that habit I may do the same thing with less protection in place and bingo, a bad thing could happen.

Bill

I did that and the piece I was picking up slipped from my fingers, hit the blade that then shot the piece into my chest. I don't do it any more. I cringe every time I see someone reach over the top of an unguarded running table saw blade.

[Derek Cohen]

I built a new featherboard hold down for the K3 today. Yes, I know that there is a slider for ripping, but I do also use the rip fence. What I found was that the work piece is prone to lift when passed along the rip fence and there is nothing to prevent kickback. Hence the hold down ...

It is somewhat self-explanatory. There are adjustments for vertical (height of work piece) and horizontal (positioning along the rip fence).

From the front ...

https://i.postimg.cc/8z0M2bX1/K3-1a.jpg

From the side ...

https://i.postimg.cc/htjVZYry/K3-3a.jpg

and from the rear ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Dz4LnbR1/K3-2a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

The bridge solution to the odd-shaped fence's back is clever.

Simon

[Edwin Santos]

Grip Tite offered a steel fence plate that attaches to the fence so their magnetic feather boards can be mounted on the fence. They also had a neat roller system that would exert down pressure and also was biased to pull the work piece toward the fence. I have one on my saw and use it all the time.
400281

I like the Grip Tite products too. It's too bad they went out of business and their products are no longer available.

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Derek,

I'm, gonna use your idea for the Unifence on my 30 year old Unisaw.

[Ben Rivel]

Or you could go the Jessem route: LINK (https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides)

[Stan Calow]

I have the Jessem guides on my router table and am very pleased with them. Much easier to adjust than featherboards.

[Ben Rivel]

I have the Jessem guides on my router table and am very pleased with them. Much easier to adjust than featherboards.
Ive got em on my table saw and router table. I love them!