Rolling pin finish

[Bill Tucker2]

Having been asked to turn some French rolling pins, I'm wondering what kind of finish to put on them to make them work well with flour and be easy to clean. The web indicates using some form of beeswax that is melted into the wood and then buffed off. Also, is there a particular type of wood that works well or more importantly, some types to Not use? Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
bill

[david privett]

I used the beeswax and medical grade mineral oil combo paste works well and when wood feels dry just use as needed.

[david privett]

I used hard maple if it is good enough for butcher blocks I figured it would be good for this too.

[David M Peters]

There's not much point in using wax as it will wear away pretty quickly with use and washing. I'd go with a simple oil finish to give the wood some color and a bit of water resistance. A level up from there might to to use an varnish such as General Finish's Bowl Finish (https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-wood-bowl-finish).

[Marvin Hasenak]

I use maple with a mineral oil and beeswax mix for the finish. In a microwave safe container I added a bottle of minerla oil from the pharmacy about a half ounce bar of beeswax, nuked it a little to melt the beeswax, poured it in to a jar. Apply and hand rubbed it in the wood on the lathe as it was turning. Then wiped it down with a clean cloth.

[Stan Calow]

Won't some of these coatings stick to the dough when in use? You want the roller to be dry.

[Yathin Krishnappa]

Growing up, we had a rolling pin in our house that my grandfather made in his teens. It worked well for some 50 years of being used nearly every day and I don't think it had any finish on it, so I figured that the East Indian Rosewood was good for rolling pins when I needed one. My version has held up well for a year or so -- although it does not get nearly as much use as my grandfather's version.

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

Any close grained hardwood will do, sugar maple being the best. Flour on the dough and rolling pin is what keeps the dough from sticking. I prefer a nice hard gloss finish for the rolling surface. I am also the baker at our house. The last two I made were for pre teen girls and were finished with several coats of wipe on poly and steel wooled with 4-0 in between coats. It won't water proof the wood, but makes it water resistant enough to be quickly hand washed without a problem, if necessary. To me rolling pins are like cast iron skillets, once they have a good surface, just wipe them, don't wash them. Same for a dough board.

[roger wiegand]

I'd prefer unfinished. That's what my grandmother's is, which I still use. Beech is traditional, but maple is also great.

Rolling pie crusts with shortening and butter keeps them oiled up, Mine has never been washed while I've owned it.

[Paul F Franklin]

I turned a rolling pin for my wife 20 or maybe 30 years ago. Used hard maple and behlen's salad bowl finish, several coats. Haven't done anything to it since and it looks like new despite fairly frequent use and washings.

[Chris A Lawrence]

I use pure tung oil to harden the surface of the wood and make it water resistant then buff it smooth. Any close grain hard wood will work like others have said.

[richard shelby]

I would use paraffin wax (home canning type) smear it on, lots of it, and melt it in with a torch. Water should bead up on it. This is how I treat cutting boards and salad bowls.

[CHARLES D Richards]

I made a number of rolling pins at Christmas and the most popular were purpleheart followed by spalted chinaberry. I finished them with one light coat on Mahoney's UtilityFinish.399997

[Bill Tucker2]

Wow...really nice! Guess we'll give this project a try. Thanks everybody for all of the suggestions and advise.
Happy New Year!
bill

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

Leaving the pin unfinished is ok, unless the wood contacts and soaks in oils that can become rancid. Then your rolling pin can take on molds and objectionable smells.

[roger wiegand]

Leaving the pin unfinished is ok, unless the wood contacts and soaks in oils that can become rancid. Then your rolling pin can take on molds and objectionable smells.

Have you had that problem? Mine is at least 70 years old, in constant use for three generations, and it hasn't happened yet.

[allen thunem]

Just an opinion but the shortening from the dough will absorb into the wood. No need for any finish.
The more they get used the better they look and work and feel.

[Reed Gray]

Sugar maple and beech are the woods mostly used by the 'chef' grade rolling pins. Closed grain and hard. As for finish, it seems that many prefer bare, or the oil/wax mix. If I use oil, it is the walnut oils, not mineral. Washing doesn't hurt them if you rinse, but never soak them. Dry with a towel. Wood does like to be out in the open rather than in a cupboard...

robo hippy

[David Hill]

Mineral is great for rolling pins. Apply and wipe, refresh as needed. Mineral oil will NEVER go rancid and is food safe.

[John K Jordan]

Having been asked to turn some French rolling pins, I'm wondering what kind of finish to put on them to make them work well with flour and be easy to clean. The web indicates using some form of beeswax that is melted into the wood and then buffed off. Also, is there a particular type of wood that works well or more importantly, some types to Not use? Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
bill

Bill, I've turned a bunch of these from a variety of woods, walnut, maple, etc. I like finer grained woods best like dogwood and persimmon. I've used an oil finish - well cured it perfectly food safe. But beeswax is my usual finish, straight, no solvant. (I have beehives and plenty of beeswax!)

I've applied beeswax two ways - one is rub it on the wood with the lathe spinning then use a paper towel pressed firmly to create heat and melt the wax. It helps to warm the wax a little if the room is cold. I prefer the second way: warm the wood carefully with a heat gun at low temperature, apply wax to an area, then apply heat to melt the wax. I do this with the the piece mounted on the lathe but turning only by hand. After applying plenty of wax this way I heat areas and wipe off any excess melted wax. A good rubdown by hand with a cloth and it's done. Maybe that's what you mean by "buffing" instead of a buffing wheel like like the Beall.

We are putting wax on a short one this girl made (the longest that little lathe could handle). Some others I've done, end views. I think I start with a 24" blank.

400358 400361

JKJ

[John Hart]

John Jordan is the pro. I'll follow his lead any day