Selling minimax slider for sawstop

[Ryan Pappas]

So I had a beautiful sawstop industrial cabinet saw a couple years ago and decided to sell it and purchase a minimax sc4 elite. Really great saw, I just feel like I got way more out of my sawstop. I was hoping to love the slider for breaking down sheet goods but I have a track saw and tend to use it more when breaking down full sheets. I make lots of end grain cutting boards and have been using my bandsaw over my table saw for most all ripping and cross cutting. When I make table tops it is so much easier using my track saw to square it up than man handling it on the slider.

Am I crazy for doing this or has anybody else done the same and been happy? I’m basically looking for guidance before I choose what to do. I know I could make plenty of jigs and what nots to make it easier but in the end I keep thinking most of what I did was easier on the sawstop.

[Tom Bain]

I wouldn’t give up my slider and go back to a “conventional” table saw, but the work I do may be much different than you (e.g., lots of long cross cuts). It’s ultimately a personal decision and if the Sawstop is a better tool for you that’s fine. Someone is going to get a nice Minimax slider out of that switch!

[Dan Friedrichs]

I also wouldn't go back to a traditional table saw now that I have a slider.

For something modestly-sized and rectangular (like cutting boards), it seems like the crosscut fence on the slider would be almost ideal. What tasks, specifically, do you find harder or more onerous on the slider?

[Ryan Pappas]

I also wouldn't go back to a traditional table saw now that I have a slider.

For something modestly-sized and rectangular (like cutting boards), it seems like the crosscut fence on the slider would be almost ideal. What tasks, specifically, do you find harder or more onerous on the slider?

Squaring up the cutting boards on the slider is great. I don’t rip as much because of the difference in blade width between the ts and bandsaw.
I am not particularly loving anything that needs to be done on the right side of the blade. It feels rather awkward and I don’t like it. I don’t often break down many sheets of plywood at a time so that’s where my track saw seems to work well. Straight line rips would be better if I had a parallel jig I’m sure. Dust collection sucks on my saw but like everything else, I’m sure I could make something or buy like a shark guard to improve that. It needs some adjustment as well. The slider is slightly lower than the cast iron table so any time I clamp a work piece down it doesn’t let me slide very easily.

Basically lots of little things that are adding up for me. Maybe I just need to be more patient and do more with it to become comfortable. I also don’t like when I put a sheet of plywood on the slider I then have to crawl under the sheet to turn the saw on.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Having gone from a traditional to a slider, I entirely agree that there are tasks that seem harder. But many are easier, and I feel all operations are more safe. I rarely do anything on the right of the blade (as I agree it feels awkward and unsafe).

I imagine the wagon being lower than the table would be incredibly irritating. I don't know the Minimax, but if the table is attached similar to the Hammer/Felder, it's quite easy to adjust up/down a bit:
http://davidpbest.com/VA/StonehorseShop/K975_Install/Felder_Commissioning/1-4%20Sliding%20Table.htm

[Ryan Pappas]

Having gone from a traditional to a slider, I entirely agree that there are tasks that seem harder. But many are easier, and I feel all operations are more safe. I rarely do anything on the right of the blade (as I agree it feels awkward and unsafe).

I imagine the wagon being lower than the table would be incredibly irritating. I don't know the Minimax, but if the table is attached similar to the Hammer/Felder, it's quite easy to adjust up/down a bit:
http://davidpbest.com/VA/StonehorseShop/K975_Install/Felder_Commissioning/1-4%20Sliding%20Table.htm


Maybe I just need to get the wagon adjusted properly and maybe get me some sort of parallel ripping jig. That’s where I tend to have to use the right side of the table and can’t get very great results that way.

[James Zhu]

The sliding table should be a little higher (0.004" to 0.008" is ok) than the cast iron table. If you do not have Fritz and Franz jig, make one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE&t=463s).

Brian Lamb makes a nice parallel jig (https://lambtoolworks.com/parallel-fences).

I never work on the right side of the blade, basically, the rip fence is a stop for me.

Get a shark guard for your saw to improve the dust collection and safety. Since you do not have remote on/off button at the end of your slider, one solution is to start saw first or find an aftermarket solution. For the reasons you listed, it is why I ordered overhead saw guard and the remote on-off button for my KF700, that I consider the must-have options for the slider.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Fritz and Franz should really be built and supplied with any new slider (IMO). Essential, indispensable, will totally change how you use the slider.

[Patrick Walsh]

You just gotta force yourself to use the rip fence or work on the right side of the blade. My best guess is your just scared and thus not taking full advantage of the machine.

It took me two years working day in and day out on a slider to get to the point I don’t walk across the shop to the cabinet saw for rip cuts. So I’m not saying anything or busting your chops, I get that it does not feel natural. If you just force yourself to do it sooner or later it will feel as natural as as a cabinet saw.

The idea of having a slider and using a track saw to break down sheet goods and claiming it is easier or faster has me confused. I at one point used a track saw also to deal with sheet goods and found it painfully slow and really really annoying.

Each to his own though, you should do what works best for you and what is safe for you. I just find a slider way more convient for just about everything.

[James Zhu]

Fritz and Franz should really be built and supplied with any new slider (IMO). Essential, indispensable, will totally change how you use the slider.

I wish Mac's airtight clamp is supplied with the slider :)

http://macsblogboard.blogspot.com/p/airtight-clamps-gallery.html

[Ryan Pappas]

You just gotta force yourself to use the rip fence or work on the right side of the blade. My best guess is your just scared and thus not taking full advantage of the machine.

It took me two years working day in and day out on a slider to get to the point I don’t walk across the shop to the cabinet saw for rip cuts. So I’m not saying anything or busting your chops, I get that it does not feel natural. If you just force yourself to do it sooner or later it will feel as natural as as a cabinet saw.

The idea of having a slider and using a track saw to break down sheet goods and claiming it is easier or faster has me confused. I at one point used a track saw also to deal with sheet goods and found it painfully slow and really really annoying.

Each to his own though, you should do what works best for you and what is safe for you. I just find a slider way more convient for just about everything.

Not really but it just feels awkward to me. And I’m positive I haven’t given myself enough time to take advantage of this machine.

Not it saying the track is faster at all. Sometimes it is more convenient for just one sheet. If I were breaking down several sheets the slider would be better every time.

I guess I just wanted to hear from some of you guys who use it often and hear your thoughts. I notice not a single person has said that they would go back to a cabinet saw.

[Jim Becker]

I wouldn't give up my slider and go back to a cabinet saw, even for money. I can't think of anything that I did "better" on the cabinet saw and I work primarily with solid stock. The repeatable precision of the slider is what I favor and while something like SawStop "might" be technically safer due to the flesh sensing feature, I so rarely have my hands anywhere near the blade on my slider that I find it an acceptable risk in that respect.

I think you're struggling with the "learning curve"...there are some things that you just plain do differently on a slider than on a cabinet saw. It's not about easy vs not-easy. It's about different. Other than certain narrow things, I do all my ripping on the wagon. I'm never in the line of fire for a kickback like I would be with a cabinet saw. My edges do not require a visit to the jointer to clean them up like they would if pushed along a fence by hand. The widths are precise because I use a Fritz 'n Franz setup to insure they are that way. Crosscuts are clean and absolutely repeatable in length and again, since I'm standing to the side, should something go awry at the blade, I'm not in the line of fire. But that's me and not necessarily the best for you.

If you are truly unhappy, you should do what makes you most comfortable. A pre-owned slider will garner good money if you do decide to switch back.

BTW, in full disclosure, I tend to initially break down sheet goods with my track saw simply because I struggle with the weight of a full sheet, even for nominal 1/2" material. It's age related and there's not much I can do about that.

[Mike Kees]

I find it interesting when guys talk about a 'learning curve' on sliders. For me that curve was using one for the first time,dang I have to get one of these. I started with a excalibur sliding table and immediately figured out what I had been missing. My next step was a 'real' sliding saw,Minimax Sc2 older and needed some work. I rehabbed it and adjusted it and saw how much better the carriage right beside the blade worked. Sold it and bought a Felder k700s and I am done. I would not want to ever have a cabinet saw only again. These things can do so much more so much faster and more precise. I still have my original Unisaw that gets used less and less,probably could sell it except for the dado ability.YMMV,Mike.

[Patrick Kane]

Do you have room to add a cabinet saw in addition to the slider? I feel you on ripping on the slider. I’ve said that a million times and it’s just one of those things where people agree to disagree. I have both and I want both. I can’t believe you aren’t in love with the slider for making cutting boards? It’s a beautiful machine and process for making end grain. I’ve made some big boys in the last year a half on my slider and it was fantastic. Cutting the strips was much easier on my body, I made one long blank instead of 2-3 shorter blanks(kickback risk on a cabinet saw), and the strips came out perfectly square and true. This last one leads to near perfect glueups and decreases the amount you have to sand end grain, which is the suckiest of sucking. These two 4-6” thick 6-7’ end grain island jobs paid for the used slider. I would probably transition to ripping on my bandsaw before I gave up the slider. Still, I’m a big fan of having both saws.

I agree, sheets goods on a slider is just about as good as it gets. I save my TS75 for truing up islands and table tops I can’t physically lift onto the outrigger.

[Darcy Warner]

I have owned numerous sliders. I despise the typical 126" stroke saws. I hate the beams, don't want to build or use a jig to rip lumber.

The only full stroke sliders I liked are the old martin t75s.

I do love a short stroke old cast iron saw, martin t17, scmi si12, etc.

[Bert McMahan]

For a newbie like myself out there, why is ripping hard on a slider? I thought you could lock the slider in place and use it like a non-sliding saw, is this not the case? Sorry for the rookie question :)

[Darcy Warner]

For a newbie like myself out there, why is ripping hard on a slider? I thought you could lock the slider in place and use it like a standard saw, is this not the case? Sorry for the rookie question :)

Yeah, you can, but the beam is in the way. I don't like reaching over it to rip lumber.

These kind of saws are built for sizing sheet goods and cross cut work.

[Dan Friedrichs]

To elaborate on Darcy's reply - you usually want to stand just to the left of the blade, so you're out of the line-of-fire for any kickbacks - but the beam (the fixed part supporting the sliding part of the slider) is right there. So you end up either standing to the right of the saw blade (unsafe) or reaching over the sliding table (awkward)

[Warren Lake]

First time I went to the old guys shop he had two cabinet saws. I asked why and he said one is for ripping one is for cross cutting. Two people could work but more so for him alone it was faster. The cross cut saw had a wood sleigh on it. Seems primitive but he ran a shop with 425 employees that had everything and 10 of everything there then in his home shop he had all he needed.

I set up the same with two saws one ripping one cross cutting only I put an Excalibur sliding fence on each side of the cross cut saw. Pretty good id say no more spinning a part around after squaring to cut to length. Surprised no manufacturers do that. The only negative was they were first generation of those sliding tables and they were junk. On solid smaller stuff face frame, doors etc worked well. Panels they would not cut consistently square. Set it up perfect cut some panels and for sure something would be off and you spend more time down the road in adjusting for that. Put on heavy stuff like 1 1/4" MDF and even more so.

IVe stood behind big sliders in show rooms and said to sales guys I could not rip on this. They say yes you can. You get used to one way and there is zero chance id be leaning over to rip when the support part sticks out the back and id have to stand to the left. more recently read of the stops to the left and how people rip which the sales guy didnt tell me. All fine but id be faster on a cabinet saw. One rip fence one setting and rip.

I got an entry level slider, one of the small capacity ones and on those and likely a number of them you can stand behind them and rip to the rip fence. A bar does extend out back maybe 7 Inches if remember correctly. I can still stand behind those saws and my inseam is high enough I can stand over the bar as well if i wanted or to the left of it. I think some maybe the hammer stuff nothing extends back or very little on the entry level ones and SCM has two models of what i have and the other model looks like a better slider trace system, not sur how it extends.

I realized even if this is entry level for a slider id keep it for that fact alone that i can stand behind it. the other things and likely 10 of them blow away the General saws I was used to. From the weight of being solid and heavy, to the better fence, to real HP, The generals at 3hp were well underpowered or powered right for what they were, to the blade capacity of up to 16" and on and on.

The slider this one on a bar im not impressed with the setup aspect as changing one thing changes another but the actually motion is excellent compared to the aftermarket tables i had on the other one. You feel the weight to move it but then it just floats. The old excalibur no mass, they start easier but then there is friction all the way, on the days they were really out they were like an exercise machine and I wasn't into putting in the time to keep them on track. Know they made them better and better.

[Steve Mathews]

I'm fairly new to woodworking and know very little about sliders but wouldn't a SawStop with their sliding table be a solution?

[James Zhu]

I'm fairly new to woodworking and know very little about sliders but wouldn't a SawStop with their sliding table be a solution?

Steve Rowe's youtube channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmE9bhjfyhepnFlyXFkWwsQ/videos) has a few videos about the sliding table saw. Saw Stop's added on sliding table is far away from the blade, it is not a true slider.

[James Zhu]

BTW, in full disclosure, I tend to initially break down sheet goods with my track saw simply because I struggle with the weight of a full sheet, even for nominal 1/2" material. It's age related and there's not much I can do about that.

Jim, if you have space, this crazy horse dolly (https://www.thecrazyhorsedolly.com/videos.html) makes handling sheet goods easier.

[Kevin Jenness]

I usually load sheets with the carriage locked and the saw running. For the times when i forget to turn it on first I have a long 3/4" dowel at hand to push the start button under the sheet.

If I had room for two saws I would have a cabinet saw as well as a slider. As is, I would never go back to a cabinet saw alone. 8' straightline ripping, panel handling, Fritz and Franz etc, far outweigh the inconvenience of leaning over the carriage and walking around the beam to set the rip fence- for me.

James, that crazy horse dolly actually looks quite useful. Thanks for the link.

[Greg Parrish]

Assuming it’s in good shape and single phase, trailer it on down to Tallahassee and I’ll trade you even for my Restored Powermatic PM66 saw setup. I would love to have a nice slider. LOL. :)


So I had a beautiful sawstop industrial cabinet saw a couple years ago and decided to sell it and purchase a minimax sc4 elite. Really great saw, I just feel like I got way more out of my sawstop. I was hoping to love the slider for breaking down sheet goods but I have a track saw and tend to use it more when breaking down full sheets. I make lots of end grain cutting boards and have been using my bandsaw over my table saw for most all ripping and cross cutting. When I make table tops it is so much easier using my track saw to square it up than man handling it on the slider.

Am I crazy for doing this or has anybody else done the same and been happy? I’m basically looking for guidance before I choose what to do. I know I could make plenty of jigs and what nots to make it easier but in the end I keep thinking most of what I did was easier on the sawstop.

[John Sincerbeaux]

I am not sure when the first long beam sliders were born but I think the first sliders made were arguably the finest saws ever. The Wadkin PK, Martin T17, Oliver?, Northfield #4, etc. All of these saws were very short stroke(same length as the table) and crazy precise.
I have a Martin T60C short stroke (6’) and would never go back to a cabinet saw. Coupled with AirTight clamps and F&F jigs, this saw has been the biggest game changer for my life of woodworking.
I believe EVERY WW machine should be a “slider”, even router tables and bandsaws.
Happy New Year
Cheers

[Darcy Warner]

I am not sure when the first long beam sliders were born but I think the first sliders made were arguably the finest saws ever. The Wadkin PK, Martin T17, Oliver?, Northfield #4, etc. All of these saws were very short stroke(same length as the table) and crazy precise.
I have a Martin T60C short stroke (6’) and would never go back to a cabinet saw. Coupled with AirTight clamps and F&F jigs, this saw has been the biggest game changer for my life of woodworking.
I believe EVERY WW machine should be a “slider”, even router tables and bandsaws.
Happy New Year
Cheers

Sliding table, aka cut off saws, or cross cut or dado, were made all the way back into the 1860s, 1870s.

[Mike Kreinhop]

When I looked for a table saw, the only choices I had were sliders or contractor saws, as I was not been able to find a cabinet saw in Germany. Now that I have my Minimax SC2, which dominates my shop, I wouldn't replace it with a cabinet saw if one were available.

The only limitation I have found to date is the inability to rip full sheets of plywood or lumber longer than seven feet. This is a limitation of my shop, not the saw. The distance between the wall and the leading edge of the blade is 93 inches and full sheets here are just over 98 inches long, so I can't rip a full sheet. I can crosscut full sheets on the slider without any problems, but I rip full sheets in my garage using the track saw and haul the pieces to the basement.

I don't remember my learning curve being more than a day or two. I use the fence as a cutting reference almost as often as I use the slider deck.

As James stated, the slider must be slightly higher than the cast iron table. I don't know about the SC4, but the SC2 has four M8 bolts and locknuts to set the slider height. I watched the tech commission my saw, and the slider adjustment took him about ten minutes to set up.

[Darcy Warner]

I usually load sheets with the carriage locked and the saw running. For the times when i forget to turn it on first I have a long 3/4" dowel at hand to push the start button under the sheet.

If I had room for two saws I would have a cabinet saw as well as a slider. As is, I would never go back to a cabinet saw alone. 8' straightline ripping, panel handling, Fritz and Franz etc, far outweigh the inconvenience of leaning over the carriage and walking around the beam to set the rip fence- for me.

James, that crazy horse dolly actually looks quite useful. Thanks for the link.

Sheet good saws. 8 foot straight lining does nothing for me, can't remember the last time I ordered stock under 10 feet long. The longer the better.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Coupled with AirTight clamps and F&F jigs, this saw has been the biggest game changer for my life of woodworking.

John, would you mind sharing how you use the AirTight clamps? They look really cool, but I rarely find a need to clamp anything to the table (although I'm a slider newbie). Am I doing something wrong? :confused:

[Richard Coers]

Only you know what kind of saw will work in your shop. I made furniture for 40 years, needed a big saw. Now I go months without ever turning on a table saw. Either turning or cycling. Unfortunately for me, an old Minimax combination machine is only worth pennies of what I paid for it. I keep it around now for the 12" jointer and use a Sawstop for all my other cutting. Damned large footprint for a 12" jointer!

[Ryan Pappas]

I want to thank everyone for their input. It is greatly appreciated. Lots of positive feedback on sliders. I think I’m gonna give it some more time and try and set it up better. Get a few more jigs and see how it goes. I was super excited when I purchased it and did tons of research before hand. I don’t want to sell it. I want to keep it and figure out how I can use it to it’s full potential. Maybe a little more experience with it and I’ll enjoy it more. Really wanted to see if my thoughts were common or not.

[Chris Parks]

For me the lights went on when the Frits & Franz was first discussed on this forum many years ago. Without it the slider is not a complete machine and like others I rarely use the rip fence for anything but a measuring stop.

[John Sincerbeaux]

John, would you mind sharing how you use the AirTight clamps? They look really cool, but I rarely find a need to clamp anything to the table (although I'm a slider newbie). Am I doing something wrong? :confused:

When doing small work, the clamps do the holding rather fingers and pushsticks. Here my 17 yo son is cutting dados on jewelry box sides. Program the dimensions of the dado, the fence and blade adjusts automatically, and the clamps are great for production and of course safety. 399973

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, John - I can see, now, how those could be very handy for smaller pieces.

[David Kumm]

I have three sets on various machines. The are adjustable and cant towards the fence so they always push stock tight. They are also great in keeping ply down on the table tight when cutting bevels or even when scoring or shaping. Both clamps operate with the lever on the near one so you can get into a real production mode, stock against the stop, hit the lever, push the table through, and go again. I was surprised at how they become part of the routine. Dave

[Patrick Walsh]

I also have air clamps and will say they are great.

On the other hand I have made simple clamps that fit into the t slot with those cheap red tipped and handled lever type clamps screwed to a simple piece of plywood or hardwood.

With the above I can work as small of a piece as one can imagine. Maybe dumb but I don’t think so its a non issue to crosscut down to 10” no problem on a slider without clamps just holding the piece with your mitts. Same goes for full sheets of plywood. No need for clamps till say you wanna run say a 45% miter the length of a sheet of plywood. Then you need some kind of clamps to get a even cut. Even they one on the trailing edge and then consistent downward pressure at the blade and I have never had any issues.

People seem to complicate the crap out of stuff mostly I assume because they are overly cautious “probably a good thing” and or scared. I have said before heed to fear as that’s when you are most apt to get hurt. But imop you have to get over those fears.

I remeber the first time I saw someone straightline on a contractors saw on a jobsite sans fence. I was very new to the trades but not new and I thought “your nuts and just asking for it” fast forward six months later and I came to understand that to do a cedar shake roof, siding or even scribe a baseboard to a existing floor it was the only efficientl way to do do it.

I still get looks from other trades on site when I’m roughing down a scribe strip or something on the ts without a fence.

I’m not trying to be a tuff guy or show off I’m just making the point that letting go of being overly cautious is kinda manadatory and that once your no longer scared everything becomes much more safe.

[Kevin Jenness]

Now you've done it.

I say, if you feel comfortable freehanding rips on a tablesaw, fill your boots. I will be over in the corner with my orbital jigsaw and powerplane, well out of the kickback zone.

[Jim Becker]

I had a chance to see a set of those air clamps up close and personal when I attended a recent training seminar at a shop down in southern Virginia. Very drool-worthy for so many reasons, but also really well designed. They happened to be installed on a Felder slider, but I've also watched a video on YouTube with them going on a Martin with the same results. If I win the lottery, I'll definitely be adding them to my saw!

[Andrew Joiner]

Jim, if you have space, this crazy horse dolly (https://www.thecrazyhorsedolly.com/videos.html) makes handling sheet goods easier.
Thanks! The crazy horse dolly looks great. If I had to feed sheets into a slider or table saw I'd get one.
I'm a vertical panel saw devotee. I slide my sheet stock vertically from the rack through my panel saw. No lifting or scratching faces of sheets.

[Jim Becker]

I agree that the Crazy Horse Dolly is very nice and if I had a shop with the right kind of open space, it would be very worthy of consideration. But when I first learned about it some time ago, I realized that there would be no value in my particular small shop because the maneuvering I would need to do to get a sheet onto the dolly would have to take place in the exact spot where just loading it onto my saw would happen. It would be twice the effort...but that's purely because of my shop, not because of the resource. It's a great design!

[Chris Parks]

When doing small work, the clamps do the holding rather fingers and pushsticks. Here my 17 yo son is cutting dados on jewelry box sides. Program the dimensions of the dado, the fence and blade adjusts automatically, and the clamps are great for production and of course safety.

All those clamps, airlines, the fence hanging out the back like that would drive me nuts but that is just me. An F&F jig looks like it would achieve the same thing without the clutter from what I can see in the photos. I realise that production is a world away from the hobby world but that is what I see and no criticism is intended. Unskilled labour for instance would be safer using air clamps and no one could argue that.

[Rob Sack]

I also have a Saw Stop Industrial Cabinet Saw wit an Excaliber Sliding Table from General Industrial Tools in Canada. It is a great combination that is extremely accurate. A best of all, Saw Stop bought out General Industrial and now sells the same sliding table that was formerly sold as an Excaliber.

[John Sincerbeaux]

All those clamps, airlines, the fence hanging out the back like that would drive me nuts but that is just me. An F&F jig looks like it would achieve the same thing without the clutter from what I can see in the photos. I realise that production is a world away from the hobby world but that is what I see and no criticism is intended. Unskilled labour for instance would be safer using air clamps and no one could argue that.

A F&F jig would do the same task but in production, for what I do, the clamps are king.
The fence hanging off the front is just the way it is when using it as a stop. When not in use it takes about 5 seconds to slide forward.

[David Kumm]

I'll add that the clamps are also great when working with rough lumber. I like to straight line one edge even if not the final cut, and crosscut to rough length before dealing with the jointer. The least material that needs to go through the jointer or planer the better. Sawing rough stock with a bow or twist is a dangerous game without a solid way to clamp the piece. Same with a shaper. One vertical and one horizontal clamp holds pretty heavy cuts in place when shaping off the sliding table. Mac takes real pride in his work and the clamps are Martin like in quality. Dave

[Joe Calhoon]

I agree Dave, slider is great for breaking down rough lumber. We normally buy skip planed material but every so often have to work from the rough. If we are doing a lot it only takes a couple minutes to pull the outrigger off.
I have a SLR but in the case of bark edge rough lumber easier to break it down on the slider.

Sliders are almost as versatile as shapers for the craftsman. Made more so with clamps and the F&F jigs.

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[Mike Wilkins]

This idea is way out there for most folks, but if you can swing it, having both a slider and a conventional US-style cabinet saw in your shop would cover all your bases. I am only a serious part-time cabinet maker/woodworker, but I regularly use both on some projects. I could not see getting rid of my slider for a conventional saw.

[Warren Lake]

nothing far out there about that. I cut up some cross grain vynl flooring strips for a friend last night to 3/16" wide. It was simple and easy on a cabinet saw, cut like butter and clean and smooth with a piece of ply on top of the table for the it to run on. 10" general saw standing position for all of it comfortable and easy. better to have a splitter but tons of years on the saw a push stick and it worked perfectly.

[Chris Parks]

As a counterpoint to this thread, yesterday an acquaintance sold his less than year old Sawstop to buy a slider. He did not elaborate but mentioned that the SS as nice as it was had too many problems.

[Joe Jensen]

I sold a Sawstop ICS which I loved 10 years ago and switched to a slider. I can't imagine not having a slider now. The perfection of the cut when the stock is clamped to the table is unbelievable. Just today I was cutting mitered moldings on stock 5" tall and 1" thick. The parts had a 45 on one end and a 62.5 on the other end. Each piece was 7/8" long. I made a quick jig which I clamped to the slider and cutting those tiny pieces precisely easy and safe. I use air clamps and Brian Lamb's parallel cutting jigs so I can use the slider whenever possible to rip.