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View Full Version : Fiber Laser Parameters for Glock / Pmags



Dave Viggiani
12-29-2018, 1:59 AM
Hey guys, new here. I just bought a Trotec Speedmarker 700 ( 30w fiber) a couple of months ago and am having quite a hard time figuring things out. I have been in contact with Trotec's support staff and cannot get one single answer to anything it seems. Once they had my money they basically left me out to dry. There are a few there that act like they would like to help, but it doesn't seem like anyone over there knows a damn thing let alone will "get back to me" on anything. I'm very disappointed seeing as these machines are not the cheapest. Right now I am looking to find if anyone has guidance on parameters for:

Color changing Magpul Pmags

Example - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNIUQQkDnVQ

2. Laser stippling Glock Frames

Example - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIRsO7rhGhM

I know for a fact these are both done on fiber lasers very commonly but cannot find anywhere to even start as far as setting go. I have done test matrix's with no luck. For the Pmags, I have found several threads on this but no actual answers. Also, it is not lasering through a secondary color layer. These companies are actually changing the color somehow via laser.

I am a type 07 Manufacturer/Dealer so don't worry about the frames :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much!

Kev Williams
12-29-2018, 2:49 AM
http://www.permanentmarking.com/wp-c...ual-REV214.pdf
(http://www.permanentmarking.com/wp-content/uploads/TYKMA-Laser-Marking-Manual-REV214.pdf)
^^ this is a PDF from Tykma, explains fiber marking and lists their settings suggestions for different materials. All machines are different, but this is the best read for learning fiber's I've found--

Bill George
12-29-2018, 10:53 AM
When I had my fiber I also owned two AR15's and a lot of PMags. I just took a magazine and did some trial and error marking and kept a log book. Sound like your going need to do the same. In fact I spent a month or so doing a lot of various materials and logging the results.

John Lifer
12-29-2018, 3:55 PM
Hope it is a mopa. I have to get over 200 Khz color change at all. True Glock frames do engrave well. P80s don't at all. Different blend of nylon.

Kev Williams
12-30-2018, 1:26 PM
I didn't see any color change that I don't do with my non-mopa fibers--

this is a silver-dollar sized piece of basic black plexiglas-
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This is a dime-sized SS 'slug', I ran 8 separate color routines to get all the different shades
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(the laser warped these so badly that I engraved a tight spiral on the back side just to warp them back flat, but it worked! ;) )

takes some practice with power, freq and speed settings... Color changing plastics and such is (I believe) called 'foaming', any fiber will do it. In full color, nope- need a MOPA for that :)

Tony South
01-02-2019, 6:16 PM
Check out salelasers they do all sorts of this stuff. I’m not sure how much of their secrets they will give you but you never know.

Tony South
01-16-2019, 10:05 AM
401345I just did this real quick. I just tried a random setting, I have a Chinese 50w. just try putting the speed high and freq high and power low and see if it just changes the color. I ran mine at like 30 power 4000 speed and 80 khz but yours might be diferent.

Dave Viggiani
03-23-2019, 12:34 AM
Hey guys,

Thank you for the responses. I actually found something that worked for the Pmags! I have to do a little fine tuning, but results are looking decent. I will post pics soon if anyone's interested.

I'm still having absolutely no luck on the Glock frames for engraving/stippling. People all over the place are doing this and its driving me crazy that I cant figure it out. Ive ran dozens of tests and cant find anything that works. Can anyone shed some light on this? I believe the material is glass reinforced polyamide (nylon) 66. I have customers asking weekly for this service and it sucks to have to keep declining business, especially after investing so much into a machine that IS capable of performing the task. Please let me know if anyone has any experience.

Thank you!

chad shoemaker
03-23-2019, 12:49 PM
I am having the same problem. I just bought a 30w fiber laser and know it is capable to do stippling on frames!!! I am trying to figure out what settings they use or parameter to draw the outline of the frame before engraving. I will be following thread and Hopefully someone can tell us the Top secret settings...lol

Chris DeGerolamo
03-25-2019, 7:38 PM
Hey guys,

Thank you for the responses. I actually found something that worked for the Pmags! I have to do a little fine tuning, but results are looking decent. I will post pics soon if anyone's interested.

Thank you!

Care to share? Tee Hee...

Vasek Matyska
03-26-2019, 2:40 AM
Hey yall!

Id like to know about engravin glock frames aswell ;)

I got some results on magpul pmags, black and FDE, with 30w fiber, didnt know frequency is important back then so I didnt change original setting 30, and speed 1000 power 5-10% hatch line distance 0.1mm and three repeats - worked out fine for black, FDE needed much more power may be 100%. Result was ok but not perfect. Colour is fine, but you can visibly scratch it with your nail and it wont come off. More repeats help, but still, not perfect.

What was your setting, if I may ask, Dave?

John Lifer
03-26-2019, 1:35 PM
OK, I've done two glocks. and should probably do more, but I find getting files correct takes a good while. Sooo, here are my settings.
20 watt MOPA. You need frequency of 300khz...... Power is 100, speed is 1500mm/s I use one loop and two hatches at 90 and 270. It works GREAT on TRUE GLOCK frames. Series 3 G17 and Series 4 G26 at least.
I have tried every setting I can get (from 1 to 400khz) various speeds and hatches on P80 mags and it is total failure. I won't try M&P as I'm afraid to screw up frame.

Lee Childers
03-26-2019, 9:49 PM
I have tons of them...I have a 30 watt fiber laser....

The settings i use are .08mm single line hatch, 20 Hz freq, 400-600 speed, and 30-40% power....these are just initial settings ...depending on the pattern I may tweak the speed or power to get the desired look I want....Ive never been able to tell much difference changing frequency doing stippling . 406604406605406606406607406602

chad shoemaker
03-26-2019, 10:55 PM
Thanks for the help with the settings Lee!!! My problem is how you are getting the outline of the frame shape? Are you using bitmap or vector files? I cant figure out the outline for the life of me. Lol. I am really wanting to do some nice deer designs on my marlin 30 30 reciever but again I can't figure out how to draw a outline? If you could help me out you will be saving me hours literally. Thanks for the post

Dave Viggiani
03-26-2019, 10:56 PM
Lee,

Those look phenomenal !!!!! Great work! I will give yours and the others' settings a go in the next few days. What did you practice on for material prior to the real frames? Also, any advice on getting the template/shape figured out for the frames? I know guns very well, but this is an entire new world for me.

For those requesting my Pmag params, Next time I go into my program Ill get them for you.

Thanks so much!

Lee Childers
03-26-2019, 11:11 PM
I will usually take a picture of the frame with a digital camera and then upload it into my design software...I use Corel, then using the Bezier tool I trace the outline right on top of the picture, then delete the picture and I have an outline to install whatever pattern I want...I have an account with Shutterstock that I buy vectored patterns and just have my customers pick out what they want right from the website...hope this helps

Tony South
03-28-2019, 12:26 PM
I will usually take a picture of the frame with a digital camera and then upload it into my design software...I use Corel, then using the Bezier tool I trace the outline right on top of the picture, then delete the picture and I have an outline to install whatever pattern I want...I have an account with Shutterstock that I buy vectored patterns and just have my customers pick out what they want right from the website...hope this helps

I do the same thing. I am just using inkacape right now. pmags i use 2 passes using cross hatch 6000 speed 16 power 70 khz. .05 line distance 90 degree. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UyCmGHBoMI there is a youtube video I uploaded. those same setings work on xbox controllers and ps4 controllers also.

Anthony Rister
04-24-2019, 7:09 AM
Great work!

Tony South
04-26-2019, 9:07 AM
408680408681408682did my first laser stipple on a glock and turned out nice. also did deep engraving on the top and sides of the slide for looks and grip. I am using a 50 w. I run cross hatch .08mm line space single line hatch. 2 loops so a total of 4 with cross hatch. 500mm/s 20% power and 50khz. also did the cerakote on the polymer frame. also using inkscape to draw everything then convert to dxf and then to ez cad. works great!

Gary Conde
11-22-2019, 5:14 AM
Nice work!

Vasek Matyska
12-13-2019, 2:03 PM
Hey guys!
I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber), what do you guys think about the outcome? I am very satisfied with my first try ;)
421446421447

But now I am trying to engrave FDE and OLIVE Glock frame, not getting good results. Have you guys figured that out? Could somebody care to share settings for non-black Glocks? Would be much appreciated!

Gary Hair
12-14-2019, 8:44 AM
I don't think you could ask for better results, that came out great!

I don't have any suggestions for the fde and olive, but I'm pretty sure it's whatever they use for coloring that is reacting, or not reacting, with the fiber.


Hey guys!
I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber), what do you guys think about the outcome? I am very satisfied with my first try ;)
421446421447

But now I am trying to engrave FDE and OLIVE Glock frame, not getting good results. Have you guys figured that out? Could somebody care to share settings for non-black Glocks? Would be much appreciated!

Matt Schrum
12-16-2019, 8:35 PM
Hey guys!
I have done glock stippling aswell, used settings I found in this thread (speed 500, power 40%, fq 30kHz, hatch 0.08mm - 30w fiber)

Gosh darn it. I've been having issues with stippling my M&P for a while and posted on a facebook group (dedicated to laser stippling) asking for advice and literally was told "we don't share our settings here because you don't want someone to take your business" even though I'm only doing this for fun. So, I bought a "decommissioned" Glock grip for $25 off of GunBroker last week to test on (just arrived in the mail today). In between now and then I saw your post and your shared settings and tested them on the black grip I just bought. They worked great.

That's my long way of telling you "Thank you!". Even if these exact settings don't work on my M&P, I now have a solid starting point and that makes a world of difference. I truly appreciate it.

Matt Schrum
12-16-2019, 10:11 PM
Well, bugger. The 500/40%/30 settings worked great on the defunct Glock frame I purchased, but melted and bubbled my M&P Shield frame. I tried another 20 or so combinations of settings on my M&P and found some great ones for bright foaming marks (3000/40%/30 and 1500/10%/30), but nothing that vaporized as the Glock did.

Searched the internet to see what polymers each was made out of-- Glock is supposedly a "Nylon 6/6" based polymer with glass fibers and my M&P is "Zytel" (which is mostly "nylon 66" and includes some DuPont resin, nylon 6, and 610 plus glass fibers as per Wikipedia). Who knows how close the two polymers are to each other, but they sure behave different. With all of the settings I tried, I was sure I'd find one frame to by nylon and the other HDPE or some completely different plastic.

I did search the internet to find laser stippled M&P's and found evidence of two. One guy's video look like he sanded it smooth, then bubbled up his design. The second was only a picture from a company's Twitter account (so no video to guess settings) and definitely removed/vaporized plastic (instead of bubbling it up), but the quality looks terrible. Rough edges, poor alignment, and just not a crisp look. I don't know how much of that was operator/designer, but it doesn't look that great if you pay attention. There are some tidbits that make me nearly 100% sure they used a laser, but the terrible results almost had me convinced they did it by hand initially.

So, I'll halt things for tonight. I may see if I can find a different design that will look great as a white/light tan, or maybe I'll try to mimic the terrible results on the Glock so I can see how to adjust them to get back to good results (and maybe that'll transfer over to how to get good results on the M&P? I have my doubts).