"Stabilize" rotted wood section

[Jeff Ramsey]

I'd like to use a piece of cherry for the top of a mantle clock, and it has a very interesting looking partially rotted section (no insects or eggs are left). Any suggestions on stabilizing it to the point where no pieces flake out? I can use clear epoxy, but that might ruin the look.

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[Neil Gaskin]

Epoxy is what I would use. It will change the look.

[Wayne Lomman]

Use a low viscosity epoxy. It will penetrate and stabilise without building a sheet of plastic over the job. You will have to do your own research on where and what brand is available but all the major industrial and protective coating manufacturers usually make one. Cheers

[Brice Rogers]

I have mixed acetone with epoxy and made it very low viscosity (like water). But it took over a week to cure. If you can either apply a vacuum or can put it into a pressure pot, that could minimize the chance of air bubbles. But experiment with the mixture of epoxy and acetone before you commit to your target piece.

Other people have used "cactus juice" (google it) to stabilize a piece. But it usually requires a vacuum chamber.

I've used Min-wax wood hardener (the solvent based one) and it is resin thinned with acetone. It soaks in well. It cures after a few hours. It is pricey.

Another (good) alternative is to use thin CA (cyano-acrylate glue) and drizzle it on the rotted section. Thin CA is just like water and will soak into the rotted/punky areas very well. It is best to pre-coat the piece with shellac or lacquer or something similar so that the CA doesn't change the color of the wood.

Another alternative is to "dig out" the rotted section and then use a filler - - either contrasting or complimentary. Some people will use In-lace as a contrasting filler and some will use crushed turquoise.

[Phil Mueller]

I just watched a video where Smith’s Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) was used to stabilize some funky spalted wood. I’ve not used it, but you may want to check it out.

[Lee Schierer]

MinWax makes a wood hardener liquid that soaks into the wood. I have used it to stabilize some wood. It dries quickly but requires a well ventilated area to use.

[Julie Moriarty]

I've been using Ecopoxy on a flamewood slab with great results. The slab had a rotted out center and lots of soft areas from rot. Ecopoxy 2:1 has the consistency of watered down maple syrup and flows very well. I've seen it vanish into the tiniest cracks and crevices and into soft areas I didn't know were soft until the epoxy absorbed differently. It takes three days to cure and has an open time of up to 8 hours. You can pour up to 1-3/4" thick. It's crystal clear. But it's pricey.

[Jeff Ramsey]

Thanks to all who responded. I have questions out to Smith, Ecopoxy and Minwax. I'll update this thread with final results after I've finished.

[Richard Coers]

The Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener can be up to 74% acetone and 4% Methanol according to the MSDS. You are basically paying a lot of money for solvent. It's not going to fill in the missing chunks in that soft spot. Stick with epoxy.

[andy bessette]

That rot is ugly and should not be used.