Stihl 261 C-M chainsaw?

[Steve Mathews]

I'm planning to purchases another chainsaw the first of the year and have been thinking of getting the Stihl 261 C-M. It's probably more than I need preparing wood for woodturning, cutting down some small trees on my property, etc. but it seems to be a quality tool. Any suggestions on an alternative?

[Peter Kelly]

Either the Dolmar 5105 or 510 would be comprable. Build quality of Dolmar is overall much nicer than the lower end Stihls so tend to be a bit better value for the money imo. Not a lot of cheap feeling plastic parts on a Dolmar.

If your yard isn't terribly large and you intend to use this mainly for woodworking, I'd strongly recomend checking out an electric Stihl MSE 250 C-Q. Thye're amazingly powerful, quiet, lightweight and really a pleasure to use. Only limitations are extension cord length and bar. I think the longest is 18" for any of them.

[Mark Bolton]

I would second the recommendation for an electric. Have a large piece of property with a small bandmill on it and of course use and own several saws. But in the shop its a different story. We had an odd job a while back in a log home that required extensive re-work of log openings for window trim. We bought a dirt cheap Worx electric chainsaw to do the interior work (was a finished home) and I will say that saw gets more use in the shop than I would have ever guessed. We use it for all kinds of stuff. No gas, no oil (if we need chain lube we run vegetable oil but we often run the saw with just a light dry spray lube on the chain, its not like we are cutting down trees). It has miles of power and you never have to stop to fill up.

If I were within 150' of power I would never run a gas saw again.

[Steve Mathews]

The saw will be used well beyond reach of electric power so an electric chainsaw is out of the question. If I have to saw something inside the shop I've been using a bandsaw and it has worked out well enough so far. The Dolmar sounds promising. I understand they have been bought out by Makita, which may be good or bad.

[Peter Christensen]

Stihl and Husqvarna make good gas powered saws. My father used to buy logging truck loads of logs and cut them up with a Stihl corded saw. I think he did about 5 or 6 truckloads with it before it quit. I have a Husvarna electric that was even better made that I use once in a while. Stihl makes some cordless saws that work well and a few batteries would let you work for a couple hours or more. The batteries are comparable with their other yard tools like the string trimmers. All depends on how often you need them for and how big the trees are.

[scott lipscomb]

I love my MSA 200 C-BQ. Very powerful and with the 1/4" chain, it seems like it cuts as fast as a 35-40cc pro grade 2 stroke chainsaw. I use it all of the time...while the 2 strokes pack a good power to weight ratio, and I own a few of them (especially in the larger sizes), if I don't have to go through the process of getting one going, its a big plus. With cordless, just push the button and cut.

I think I would also consider a Makita cordless. Makita now owns Dolmar and I can't help but to think that there is a Dolmar chainsaw technology in a Makita cordless chainsaw (I could be wrong).

[Tom M King]

I got a good laugh by someone asking about a 1,000 dollar pro saw, and the recommended alternatives. I'm sure it's a great little saw, but I don't know anyone that owns one. It's probably the best choice there is in a 50cc saw. I have 60, and 90cc pro saws that have served me well for 20 years, but I run a cheap small saw. That's a pretty specialized pro saw that I don't see the price being paid back, unless you're going to be running it every day. I don't even remember anyone talking about owning one on the Forestryforum, and those guys are mostly all pros. My small saw is a MS180, and gets used more than the 036, and 066 combined.

The power to weight is pretty amazing in the pro saws, and they're very easy to work on, even including the bottom end, but for occasional use, something like the 300 buck 250 is a nice little saw. It's what the power company crews carry on their trucks.

Everyone does seem to like the electronics of the C-M's, especially if you work in really cold weather. For another 500, you could get an MS500i, if money doesn't matter.

Run non-ethanol in it with the synthetic Stihl oil, and even the homeowner saws will last for many years. I'd still be running a 20 year old 018, but I loaned it to a friend, who had it stolen, and he replaced it with the 180.

edited to add: If you're strong, and fit, you might consider going up to a 60cc saw that will pull a 3/8" chain. Some people like the .325 chains, but I never got on with them. If I'm not throwing big chips, I'd just as soon run a smaller saw with the 3/8 PICCO chain.

[Jim Andrew]

The 261 is considered a commercial saw, and is priced higher than a comparable 290 or 291. I have both a 290 and a 291, and both are heavier, but cut comparable and cost less than the 260 or 261. They also have fewer problems. I run synthetic oil in my saws, and switch off occasionally. When the chain starts to feel like you need to push hard, I switch saws, and avoid overheating a saw. Also have a ms250, it starts easy, but takes a shorter chain although both are 16". I use .325 on all my saws.

[John K Jordan]

I like the MS250s too, use two of them around the farm. I have 18" bars on them so I can easily cut through a 30"+ diameter tree. Plenty of power. They always start and run well.

What worries me about the MS 261 C-M is the computer, sensors, and electronics that Stihl describes as inside. This might sound attractive on the surface but I like to keep chain saws a long time. What happens if the computer or sensors break 20 years from now and it costs a fortune to get them replaced. I would consider sticking to the time-proven conventional Stihl saws.

BTW, I use the 250s and one larger gas Stihl as needed away from power. Outside the shop and inside the shop I use a Stihl electric to cut log sections as needed for woodturning. If I need a chainsaw at the sawmill I run a couple of hundred feet of extension cord and use the electric there too.

JKJ



The 261 is considered a commercial saw, and is priced higher than a comparable 290 or 291. I have both a 290 and a 291, and both are heavier, but cut comparable and cost less than the 260 or 261. They also have fewer problems. I run synthetic oil in my saws, and switch off occasionally. When the chain starts to feel like you need to push hard, I switch saws, and avoid overheating a saw. Also have a ms250, it starts easy, but takes a shorter chain although both are 16". I use .325 on all my saws.

[Larry Frank]

I think we are long past the time to worry about the electronics. They have been in cars for many years and starting to show up in many lawn mowers. I remember the days of no electronic ignition and no fuel injection in cars and do not want to go back. My car with electronics starts every time and in brutal cold weather.

[Adam Grund]

I have a 261cm as a limber/ light duty saw and I love it. Had the original 261 and when the c-m came out I traded up.
Have a ms460 70cc saw that I wish I was in the same position to trade to the 461cm or even the 661cm, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

At any rate, for simplicity I switched to 3/8 bar and chain and run a 20" bar on it, and if I don't feel like switching on/off I'll frequently use it to cut 16-18" logs, which it does with ease.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I'm not familiar with the electronic specifics that the CM offers, but the 261 is a fantastic saw. One of the best choices of its size for power to weight, feel, etc.

I used to do quite a bit of forestry work in the woods professionally and ran an older 026 Pro (16" bar) and a hopped up / ported 044 (20-24" bar). Those 2 saws with proper and sharp chains would handle any situation you could throw at them. I used the 026 about 75% of the time...as much as I could get away with just because of its lightweight.

I still have both saws and really like the 90s era of Stihl before electronics / tighter emmission controls came into the carb / motor / exhaust.

If you can afford it and value your time, life's too short to use tools less than what you need. A fine chainsaw that is light, powerful and reliable is a true joy to behold.

[Tom M King]

Adam, before you upgrade the 460, check to see what they're running in Europe. They're already on the 462 there, and I don't think the 500i is here yet either. the MS500i is a fuel injected (no choke) 60cc (I think) saw, with a lot more power, and lighter weight than the 360. You can find youtube videos in a Scandinavian language. Those saws will probably be here next year.

[Tom M King]

If you want an in-depth review of the 261CM, there is one on the forestryforum by a pro. Can't put a link here, but search there for Official MS261CM vs 550XP test

[Tom M King]

official MS261CM vs 550xp test

[Ed Mazuronis]

I own a 261 and 661. The 261 is used 98% of the time. It’s a very capable saw and is likely overkill from a quality perspective given the use cases you outlined. Don’t be tempted to spend another 50-500 dollars and get the next model up. You’re back will thank you for it. Buy a second saw when the need comes for more power.

[Steve Mathews]

The first of the year has arrived and I'm about ready to pull the trigger on another chainsaw. Sales taxes have decreased here after the Jan. 1 is the reason for postponing the purchase until now. I stopped by our local Stihl dealer a few days ago and they recommended the 391 instead of the 261 C-M primarily because of personal preference but also the larger bar capability. I still like the lighter weight of the 261 C-M and I don't think a larger than 20" bar is needed. I also don't think a more powerful engine is needed in my situation so the 550xp or larger saws mentioned don't seem to make sense to me. I realize the Professional 261 C-M is more saw than I need but I do appreciate the better build quality and at this stage of my life don't mind paying for it. None of my tools will actually pay for themselves in terms of money but I do get a good amount of satisfaction in owning and using them. I never considered an electric chainsaw before, either corded or battery operated but mention of them here has changed my outlook. I still plan to get the gas version for now but will later consider getting an electric because of the now realized convenience they offer.

[Jared Sankovich]

I have a few 79cc saws and a couple 45cc saws.. get the 261 if your want it. Bigger saws are nice until you have to carry them around.

[Tom M King]

Steve, I'm guessing the Stihl store had a 391 in stock. I expect there are few that have a 261 C-M in stock. The 391 is just a big Farm and Ranch saw, which are heavy and underpowered but designed for abuse like bouncing around in the back of a truck. I haven't looked at the specs, but know that it's the largest saw our Ace hardware keeps in stock, and they don't sell any pro saws. I know someone who sells firewood, and bought a 391 without doing any research-only assuming it was a good saw because of the name on it, and being the largest saw sold locally. It lasted a couple of years.

Do some reading over in the chainsaw forum at the forestryforum, and maybe ask some questions there. There are a number of pros posting, and many with small places to keep up too.

[Tom M King]

For curiousity, I just compared specs. The 261 C-M (and do note there are several 261 models) has 4.0 hp, and weighs 10.8 pounds
361 4.7 hp 12.3
391 4.4 13.67

The 361 (later version of my 036) costs less than the 261 C-M. I keep a 24" bar on it, not to cut down trees that size, but so I don't have to bend over so much.

[Adam Grund]

I run a 20" bar on my 261 with no problem in the oiling or power department.
I have found if your not looking to win a race, you can run bigger than recommended with no adverse effects. I run a 24" and a 36" bar on my ms460, which is supposed to max out at 32". Most guys on the logging forum won't put longer than a 24" bar on that 70cc saw, but it handles the 36" just fine. Most of the time I do not have all 36" of real estate covered (cutting slab wood in a v jig) but I have had it buried before in a tree trunk and never felt like I wanted more saw.
The m-tronic is real nice technology, never having to adjust the carb settings is nice. You can usually here it adjusting itself in the cut even. My opinion is whatever you go with, at least get the m-tronic. I held out for a while when the technology first came out as I was pretty skeptical about it, but it has seemingly held up pretty well with few problems

[Steve Mathews]

Steve, I'm guessing the Stihl store had a 391 in stock. I expect there are few that have a 261 C-M in stock. The 391 is just a big Farm and Ranch saw, which are heavy and underpowered but designed for abuse like bouncing around in the back of a truck. I haven't looked at the specs, but know that it's the largest saw our Ace hardware keeps in stock, and they don't sell any pro saws. I know someone who sells firewood, and bought a 391 without doing any research-only assuming it was a good saw because of the name on it, and being the largest saw sold locally. It lasted a couple of years.

Do some reading over in the chainsaw forum at the forestryforum, and maybe ask some questions there. There are a number of pros posting, and many with small places to keep up too.

You're probably correct about pushing the 391 because of what they had in stock. You're also correct that the 261 C-M is not in stock and will have to be ordered. Planning on doing that tomorrow.

[Greg Parrish]

Sounds crazy but check out the ryobi 40v cordless ones. We’ve been using one on the farm in place of a couple of stihl saws and it’s shocking how well the cordless model works. You would need to be doing logging for it to not make sense for a home owner and wood worker wanting to make blanks. Only issue might be bar length but not sure. I’m thinking of selling my small stihl and getting the 36v Makita variant one of these days since I have the batteries already.

[peter gagliardi]

A smaller pro saw, like the 261 is a much better fit, unless you are cutting big stuff all the time. I ran Husqvarnas for years, a big one with a 24” bar, and a small one with a 16” bar. The small one was used for everything that it could be, due to weight and nimbleness.
Husqvarna had some issues a while back with bad fuel lines, on lots of saws over several years.
So, I switched to Stihl. Bought a 361, and put a small bar - 16” on it. All it needs, and I can run 30” if i need it. Great saws, and I now own 3 of them.
The only complaint I have on the Stihl’s, is the fuel cap design is a PITA.
Guys who buy a big saw with a big bar, for occasional work, get what they deserve in my opinion.
Sounds like the 261 is the right choice based on your description of use.

[Steve Mathews]

I received my Stihl chainsaw today but realized after bringing it home it was the higher priced Stihl 261 C-MQ instead of the ordered 261 C-M. I paid the manufacturer's list price for the latter. The Q version is supposed to be about $150 more and have their Quickstop feature as well as a few other enhancements. I'm a little concerned that the dealer may be trying to unload some slow moving stock from the manufacturer and was able to sell the higher priced saw at the same price. I'm also not fond of the extra weight of the Q version and its added complexity. Anyone have the Q version and comment on it?

[David Hill]

I bought a 261 after I got tired of wearing out Poulans. Mine has a 20 inch bar & I love it. Had told my dealer that when I do cut it’s a lot, so he recommended this one. I process my own wood for projects— lots of Mesquite. For my longer ripping cuts I’ll use the 441 with a 30” bar.

[Tom M King]

I didn't even know what the Q was, so went to the Stihl page. Looks like an extra 2/3 lb. to stop the chain instantly any time you release the rear handle. Personally, I wouldn't want the extra weight, but I have grown up running chainsaws. You can check the boxes for which saws you want to compare, and then hit the compare box to see the individual specs.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/professional-saws/

[Steve Mathews]

I didn't even know what the Q was, so went to the Stihl page. Looks like an extra 2/3 lb. to stop the chain instantly any time you release the rear handle. Personally, I wouldn't want the extra weight, but I have grown up running chainsaws. You can check the boxes for which saws you want to compare, and then hit the compare box to see the individual specs.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/professional-saws/

I went through all of the comparisons and research before settling on and ordering the 261 C-M. The C-MQ was an additional $150 and added almost another pound to the saw. The price and added complexity is what made me decide on the C-M. The dealer removed the price obstacle by giving me the C-MQ for the same price but I'm wondering why they would do it. Is it because the manufacturer is overstocked with them. I'm just skeptical.

[Jim Barstow]

Re: electric chain saws

I always where kevlar chaps when using my (gas) chain saw for the sake of safety. I saw a demo that showed that due to the higher torque of an electric chain saw, the kevlar chaps are pretty much worthless with an electric. So in spite of using a saw that appears to be smaller and safer, it is actually far more dangerous.

Of course that assumes you use safety gear.

[Tom M King]

I would think probably trying to move them, so the manufacturer is probably giving the dealer incentives for moving them. I doubt many would go for the added weight of the Q. Hopefully, they will swap it if you want the C-M.

[Tom M King]

Speaking of electric chainsaws, I have a Craftsman, bought new in 1975, that I run a dry chain on for cutting out termite eaten parts of beams in the old houses I work on. I don't want to throw oil in the houses, so the chains are sacrificial. It's surprising how long a chain will last in dry wood without being oiled. This one has been sharpened a number of times on other jobs, and still cuts. I only remember having to replace it once. It did do a lot of stretching to start with, but not so much later.

[Steve Mathews]

I ended up returning the 261 C-MQ in exchange for the less complicated 262 C-M. The dealer gave me a hard time about it even though the saw was unused. They insisted that Stihl made the swap without their knowledge and tried to convince me that the Q version was a better saw and I should keep it. After speaking with the manager of the store they eventually agreed to order the correct saw. That's when I discovered that Stihl's new 2019 order guide didn't even list the Q version. It was apparently discontinued. Hopefully I'll eventually get what I ordered but I'm disappointed with the deceit that followed this transaction whether it's due to Stihl or the dealer or both.

[Tom M King]

Glad you ended up with what you wanted. The extra weight for the Q was an odd thing, especially since the saw was intended for pro users. My money would be on both, and that would probably be the last time I used that dealer. I'm fortunate to have one I like, even though I work on the equipment myself.