Tru-Flex Metal Hose for natural gas line?

[Steven J Corpstein]

I'm renovating a garage/shop and want to add a natural gas line from the house to the garage before I close the ceiling and walls for a heater. I've been told to use Tru-Flex Metal Hose inside of electrical PVC for the buried portion instead of iron pipe. I'm planning on buying a 45,000 BTU Hot Dawg. Has anybody any experience with this kind of thing? Any suggestions?

[Dino Makropoulos]

I'm renovating a garage/shop and want to add a natural gas line from the house to the garage before I close the ceiling and walls for a heater. I've been told to use Tru-Flex Metal Hose inside of electrical PVC for the buried portion instead of iron pipe. I'm planning on buying a 45,000 BTU Hot Dawg. Has anybody any experience with this kind of thing? Any suggestions?

Hi Steven.
The only right answer can come from the H.Park building dept.
I don't think you can do that.
YCf dino

[Norman Hitt]

I won't use anything except Black Iron Pipe. If it is to be buried, I always wrap it with black tape, (about 1 1/2" wide and slightly thicker than electrical tape) available at pipe dealers & plumbing supply houses. This is how we did every service line from the main to the meter run when I worked for the gas co, years ago.

[Frank Hagan]

I'm not familiar with it, but the website for Tru-Flex is at http://www.tru-flex.com/ ... check with them. Looks like it is corregated stainless steel pipe, in a sleeve already. I think I remember that this is now accepted by the national certifying agencies, but you'll have to check to make sure its OK with your local jurisdiction. The person recommending it will probably know.

If they allow you to bury it directly, then it might simplify the installation, as you don't have to cut and thread the black iron pipe. The website says "used wherever black iron pipe is used", so it may qualify for direct burial (the final authority is your local agency, so if you have a city building department, check with them).

Make sure you get the specs for the pressure loss, to make sure you have enough gas once you make the run. On larger appliances, a piece of flex tubing can create enough pressure loss to starve the appliance for gas. The fix is to size the pipe correctly, and its not rocket science ... just take the BTU/hr input of the appliance and find it on their chart for the size pipe you need for the length of the pipe run. For a 45,000 btu/hr heater, its probably 3/4 or 1" for a run under 100' (I'm guessing high because of the corregated nature of the pipe, but check with them!)

Also, are you getting the direct vent version of the Hot Dawg? I highly recommend that, as it solves some of the problems I'm seeing with people installing these with inadequate combustion air, which can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. If you're undecided because of cost, it might be worth discussing the hidden costs of having to provide combustion air for the non-direct vented models.

[Jim Becker]

I have the flexible yellow coated stuff in my home running to the kitchen range from the basement. It's pretty standard stuff these days. I don't know what the code requirements are for getting it between your home and shop. Even though what you suggest sounds reasonable, you really, really, really need to talk to your local building code officer to make sure it's installed correctly.

[Per Swenson]

Hello,

In New Jersey, the yellow gas line can only be installed

by a licensed plumber who has passed the installation course

and been certified. Actually you can't even buy it unless you show

certification. I tried.

Great stuff though, solves a myriad of problems. Yes it can be buried.

Per

[Jim Becker]

Per brings up a good point...gas lines are not something to screw around with. Work with a plumber, perhaps reducing the bill by doing some of the physical labor. Actually, your townshop/municipality may require that a plumber do this particular work. Mine does and they are downright hostle about anything to do with plumbing. Electrical? They don't even require permits although request independent inspection. Plumbing? You mortgage your first-born or the equivalent if you don't have one.

[Wes Bischel]

Even if you can do it on your own, I would follow Per's advice. Our hot water heater has a 4' run from the black pipe - only two connections. But the plumbers were back four times to fix the leaks. Each time it was one of the connectors (yeah, I know, the math doesn't add up). The last guy in knew what he was doing, replaced everything and got it done correctly - though it was by then 2AM.:mad: I suspect they didn't make much profit on that installation.
FWIW,
Wes

[John Gregory]

I installed the HotDawg in my detached shop 3+ years ago. I did not want to run Nat gas to the shop, so I use Propane. I have three 10 Gal tanks and the regulator is from a trailer supply with the auto switch over. When two tanks get emptied I get them refilled at a Propane store. About $1.55 per gal. Depending on weather, I refill them 2-3 times per year. I keep the shop at 55 at the lowest and 65-68 when working.

John