WoodRiver vs Lie Nielsen block plane

[Adam Grund]

I'll start by saying I have zero hand plane experience. I feel like I'd like to break the ice and try the basics.
Doing research, I found the general consensus are woodriver planes are a pretty good bang for the buck.
Only thing I notice is a ton of 2-3 star reviews on the block plane for the blade cap constantly popping open.
My post is three fold I suppose-
Do any of you have any input on the WoodRiver block plane?
At a price point of $165 for the Lie Nielsen, is it really worth a 65% jump from the WoodRiver?
And finally, any opinions on other options for beginners? I will say up front I don't think finding a bargain and restoring it is an option. I have pretty limited time to dedicate at this point, I'd rather spend the hours learning technique and whatnot (or, more than likely, being frustrated) than restoring.
Any input is appreciated.

I also just realized that there is a hand tool subforum. If this post needs moved, my apologies

[David Bassett]

I have the Woodriver and have handled the L-N planes at their shows. I think you should also consider the Lee Valley Veritas planes too.


I'll start by saying I have zero hand plane experience. I feel like I'd like to break the ice and try the basics.
Doing research, I found the general consensus are woodriver planes are a pretty good bang for the buck.
Only thing I notice is a ton of 2-3 star reviews on the block plane for the blade cap constantly popping open.
My post is three fold I suppose-
Do any of you have any input on the WoodRiver block plane?

It is well enough made it merits consideration. I don't think it is as well made as LV & LN though. I expect you can get it to work well, but I also think it will be least aggravating for an experienced user. Any plane will require adjustment and maintenance, the WR a little more.


... At a price point of $165 for the Lie Nielsen, is it really worth a 65% jump from the WoodRiver?

Your money, you need to make that call for yourself. Given made in China (to a fairly high spec) versus make exquisitely in Maine, an argument could be made only 65% more is impressive.


... And finally, any opinions on other options for beginners? I will say up front I don't think finding a bargain and restoring it is an option. I have pretty limited time to dedicate at this point, I'd rather spend the hours learning technique and whatnot (or, more than likely, being frustrated) than restoring.
Any input is appreciated.

I also just realized that there is a hand tool subforum. If this post needs moved, my apologies

Again, consider the LV offerings. They don't stick to traditional forms as closely as LN, but they also have superb quality and offer several models. One is similar to the ones you've considered. There are fancier, almost space age, models liked by many. (See Derek's review.) There is a smaller model, the Apron Plane, many of us like for it's simplicity and convenience. Plus, they just introduced an even smaller Pocket Plane. (Which I haven't seen in the flesh or seen reviews for, but is I'm sure also very well done if you need an even more nimble plane.)

[Mike Kees]

I have a Lie-nielsen and a veritas apron plane. I also have a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle from Lee Valley that is made in England. The stanley has a replacement blade from Lee Valley . I use all three ,they all have their place and excel in different ways. If you are looking for your first block plane the Stanley (England) from Lee Valley is an excellent budget choice. It works as well as the other two after I replaced the original blade.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Adam

As a complete newbie to hand planes, I doubt that you will be able to discern what amounts to subtle differences between the various higher end block planes. You are comparing LN and WR, and either will serve you well.

If you are asking which block plane is the better, I have read several reviews of the WR to realise that the quality control is not have a patch on LN and Veritas. WR make a pretty decent product, but the LN and Veritas have an extra 10-20% improvement in quality. Of course the law of diminishing returns applies. Is the extra quality worth the extra cost? That is a personal question. My memory is going from a UK-made Stanley #60 1/2 block plane 20-odd years ago to a LN #103 block plane, and falling deeply in love. It simply was a joy to use. It performed at a much higher level, and it looked amazing.

There are many Stanley #60 1/2 block planes around. The only ones to purchase are vintage (pre-WW2) USA-made versions. However, they need restoration and I never recommend that a newbie restore a plane before they have learned what to expect.

Stanley and LN 60 1/2 ...

https://i.postimg.cc/VvyyGdk9/LN-S1.jpg

The two best full size block planes on the market are the LN 60 1/2 and the Veritas DX60. I compared them when reviewing the Veritas here (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html). After several years, I still give the nod to the Veritas (because it is much easier to set up and adjust, plus has better steel, PM-V11). The LN is marginally more comfortable in the hand.


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_67db55fa.jpg
Left to Right: Premium Black, Premium SS, LN #60 ½, Veritas LABP.


Veritas NX and DX60 ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_59186bac.jpg

LN 60 1/2 ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_m779dd28d.jpg




If you have a large hand, then I would recommend the Veritas Low Angle Block Plane (LABP). It is wider than the rest, as seen above. In the Stanley vintage planes, it is the same width as the #65 (that is not a recommendation, as these knuckle joint lever capped block planes are a pain to adjust, in spite of their collectability status). Ironically, the Wood River (Mk3) block plane sought to emulate the #65 by adding the knuckle joint lever cap ..

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2302/5983/products/WoodRiver_Block_Plane_800x.jpg?v=1508910286


As I mentioned, I really dislike this lever cap on the Stanley #65. It is finicky to adjust. The LN is a dream by comparison ... until you use the Veritas.

There are also medium-small block planes available from LN and Veritas. Unlike the ones above, which have adjustable mouths, the following have fixed mouths. This is not a disadvantage. Rarely does one actually change the size of the mouth. The two I like are the LN #102 (the #103 is no longer available) and the Veritas Apron plane. The LN is my preferred of the two. I just like the extra heft of the brass construction.

My LN #103 (same size as the #102) on the far right ...

https://i.postimg.cc/HxfPtRkV/1.jpg

The advantage of the Veritas planes is that they can come with PM-V11 steel. This is a game changer for many. The powdered metal not only gets really sharp, but hold an edge longer than anything else out there. Plus it is not any more difficult to sharpen (outside O1 steel, which holds an edge the least of all).

Lastly I will mention a recent small block plane from Veritas, the Pocket Plane ...









http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/Woodworking/Planes/05P6501s3.jpg






This would not be my first choice, since it is so small, but is handy to own as it really can slip into a pocket.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jacob Mac]

Block planes are so useful, I think it will really improve your work. Wood River is a fine plane, and will serve you well. If you can sharpen it well, you will be fine.

With that said, I think the Lie Nielsen low angle rabbet block plane is a great first plane. The versatility of that plane helps with tenons, end grain, etc. I would give that plane serious consideration.

[Derek Cohen]

I think the Lie Nielsen low angle rabbet block plane is a great first plane. The versatility of that plane helps with tenons, end grain, etc. I would give that plane serious consideration.

(It is the middle plane in the three LN planes, above)

Jacob, I must disagree. The rabbet block plane is quite hazardous as an everyday block plane. The side edges of the blade are constantly projecting, and you will cut yourself .. we all do. I have one of these, and it is a specialist plane, one that comes out on infrequent occasions. It is too wide for rabbets/rebates, and the fixed mouth is too open to take fine cuts in end grain. It is always tempting for some to consider this block plane as it seems to be a jack-of-all-trades. However, I would stick to a standard block plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michelle Rich]

LN or Veritas.. if you don't want to be a fixer/restorer and it is your first plane...these two will work right out of the box. If you go with lesser planes you may find them so hArd to use, you will give up and lose the joy of hand tools.

[J. Greg Jones]

Lots of good suggestions given above-I would suggest that perhaps the most important consideration is if you will be happy with the WoodRiver knuckle-joint lever cap. Some people like that feature, others not so much. It's probably worth the time to visit a Woodcraft to try it first. Whatever brand/model you decide on, the low angle blade options is what you want.

[Carl Beckett]

With that said, I think the Lie Nielsen low angle rabbet block plane is a great first plane. The versatility of that plane helps with tenons, end grain, etc. I would give that plane serious consideration.

I have this and love it. I would not recommend it as my first/only plane, and would go with a standard traditional block plane instead.

And I am not 100% sure about not purchasing used. My favorite block plane is an old millers falls. Yes, there is learning involved but to be honest it is not that hard to setup a block plane. And by doing so you do not have to worry about nicking it or damaging it when using (since it didnt cost much, and pretty much any damage you do you now know how to fix). And sooner or later you are going to need to sharpen it, even if a shiney new one. Some of my nicer planes, at first, I was 'afraid' to use... defeats the purpose.

I would either 1) look on CL locally or 2) place an add on this site and you likely end up with one already tuned up for you by a member or 3) purchase one of the WR/LV/LN planes, all good.

I would suggest any of these routes are low downside risk. Given you state you dont want to mess with 'restoring', option 2 works (there are people here that LOVE to restore and block planes collect like tribbles...). Or for this reason I might give the edge to the LV/LN brand over the WR since those two will certainly arrive already setup for use.

Just one perspective...

[Gary Kman]

Adam,
I use a 60 1/2 Stanley I picked up on ebay. I don't see a block plane as something that can do much whatever it's quality. I put my money in a Record #7 and # 4 1/2 and sharpening equipment. Until I could get a hair-shaving edge quickly and easily the only things planes were good for was to pound on something when I misplaced my hammer. Mass produced equipment frequently needs careful adjusting and tuning before it works at it's best. That is not limited to turning the wheel on the back. Inspecting, filing, flattening, lubricating. (The #7 had to go to a machine shop to have the warped sole flattened). If the cap flies off once it's the manufacturer's fault. If it does it again, it's mine. It's a toggle, it's not rocket science, file something.

A Stanley 73 and Record 93 rabbet planes complete my collection.

[Robert Engel]

+1 on the WR cap popping open. That said, I've found it you tighten is just a bit, its ok. Still a good choice for your first block plane, IMO.

If you're mindset is "buy the best, buy it once" then the obvious choices are LN or LV.

If you can find an old Stanley good, but where to find one at a good price/how long you want to look is the issue there.

That's my answer but IMO the first plane a ww'er should buy is a #4.

[Brian Holcombe]

I have six LN planes, they’re pretty good. They’re very well made and adjust nicely. I hate the blades so I’ve replaced mine with Hitachi blue paper steel and O1 steel in my more commonly used planes.

LN is a good company, they stand behind their products. As example they replaced the lever cap on my plane when it started failing after years of use.

I’ve owned almost all of their products, the planes, spokeshaves, floats, screwdrivers and saws are really good.

I dont know wood river, never handled one of their products.

[Jason Lester]

Another option in between trying to restore one and buying a new premium is to buy an already restored plane from someone like Don W (timetestedtools.com). I bought a Craftsman (Stanley copy) from him a couple of years ago and it worked perfect right out of the box.

[Chris Fournier]

Buy once cry once! LN works for my likes, LV is a great plane as well. I find that good tools demand good work from me and they have driven my craft further! Either way learn everything you can about sharpening and plane set up and enjoy the versatility they bring to your shop!

[Simon MacGowen]

Since you are looking for your first plane, here's my "best-value" recommendation: Get two planes, not one, for the price of one (plus):

Veritas low angle plane http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=47881&cat=1,230,41182,45204,47881 $155

Veritas extra plane at 38* - $26

Now, you have a low angle block (12*+25* at 37*) AND a standard block (switch the blade to 38* so the cutting angle becomes 12+38=50*). My standard block is not cutting at 45* after I put a micro bevel on the iron. So 50* is fine for all intents and purposes.

If you insist, reground your optional blade to 33* to make the cutting angle at 45*. If Santa was kind to you this year, get the PMV11 blades. (Edit: Just a thought: If you don't have the equipment or know-how to alter the angle, check with Lee Valley if they could help you on that. No harm asking....)

I am using Veritas as an example (free shipping), but you can pick other brands. The Veritas has an optional chamfer guide, if that matters to you.

Veritas's apron plane is the one that i'd recommend if in future, you want a smaller addition for edge & inlay work.


Simon

[Randy Heinemann]

I bought the Wood River block plane several years ago. I love it. I don't know how much better the LN or Lee Valley planes are but I use the Wood River plane more than I use any other planes in my shop (mostly because I don't do a lot of hand work except for easing corners and some other small stuff). I like the weight and found no negatives with it.

I did buy the #101 LN Violin Maker's Plane from Lie-Neilsen (not because I'm a violin maker though). At first, it was just a cool little plane but, after I had it for awhile, I now think it was one of the best hand tool purchases I've made. It works great for some very small adjustments and, for easing edges, it just can't be beat for control and final results. Because it's bronze, the weight is really nice for a small plane.

Sorry this is a little off the topic of your question . .. so, to directly answer your question, I wholeheartedly recommend the Wood River plane based on my experience.

[Jeff Ranck]

...
Do any of you have any input on the WoodRiver block plane?
At a price point of $165 for the Lie Nielsen, is it really worth a 65% jump from the WoodRiver?
...

I first bought the woodriver block plane and got a lot of good service out of it. It worked well. Like others here have posted, I didn't like the cap that kept popping up. Also, the adjustor was hard for me to reach. It is quite a bit wider than the LN. That may or may not matter. Eventually, I sold the WR and bought the LN. I like the size a lot better as it fits my hand better. It adjusts easier and stays adjusted.

I think the WR gives a lot of value. I would not hesitate to purchase one. However, I do like the LN a lot better. Whether it is worth the price difference? I guess that depends on what you value and how much you're willing to pay.

Jeff.

[Mark Maleski]

(It is the middle plane in the three LN planes, above)

Jacob, I must disagree. The rabbet block plane is quite hazardous as an everyday block plane. The side edges of the blade are constantly projecting, and you will cut yourself .. we all do.

Agreed; not only do the blade projections draw blood but a mis-aligned blade will spoil the cut (in the wood). One of the joys of a block plane is that it’s ready to go as soon as you grasp it (provided it’s kept sharp). Every time I use my rabbet block I spend a few moments ensuring the blade is set where I want it...and these adjustments are too fiddly for most beginners.

FWIW, I have the brass LN apron block plane and the bigger LN block, and almost always find myself using the apron block. I have normal sized hands, and prefer the size. Have never touched a WoodRiver.

[Adam Grund]

Wow there's some great info and insight in these posts! Thanks for all of the opinions and reviews.
I don't love the idea of buy once cry once, mostly because I'm in unchartered territory here. I've just very recently gotten the finer woodworking bug, and I do think I'll stick with it over the span my life, but I don't know that for certain. If I applied buy once cry once to everything, I could spend $20k easily outfitting a shop just to find I suck at the craft, get uninterested and sell everything for a nickel on the dollar 😆
There's so much to learn, and tooling is so costly- it does get pretty overwhelming pretty quickly. Being an auto mechanic by trade I'm no stranger to the costs of tools and I recognize the quality difference of low and high quality tools and the effort needed to work around the shortcomings of cheap stuff. Which is ok when you know what you're doing- and can be absolutely counter productive to a person that has no experience and doesn't know what to look for.
Just looking for that sweet spot of dollar to performance value without breaking the bank. I will say though- that veritas premium ss is one beautiful plane! Completely out of my beginners proce ranfe though lol

[Tom M King]

I'll add my two cents, which really not applicable to the question, but about block planes.

http://historic-house-restoration.com/sitebuilder/images/windows3_018-344x262.jpg I bought a Stanley 9-1/2, and a 60-1/2 new in the very early '70's. They're both the burgundy color. Years later, I bought the same models that are NOS pre-WWII. I don't find any loss of quality in the newer ones, and in fact, very little difference at all. My users are the burgundy ones. These were probably made in the '60's, but at some point later, the design was changed, and I never liked the "improvements".

The 9-1/2 finally had its iron worn down by sharpening to the point that the notches didn't leave enough iron projecting to be able to be used, so I bought a replacement Hock iron. I still use the one with the Hock iron, and never bothered to grind down the square corners, but square corners on the top of the iron are not something you want on a block plane.

I always keep one handy if for no reason other than taking off pencils marks with very thin shavings, as in the picture.

I would recommend getting the one that feels best in your hand, and I would never buy another snap on cap after the first one I bought.

[Simon MacGowen]

I don't love the idea of buy once cry once, mostly because I'm in unchartered territory here. I've just very recently gotten the finer woodworking bug, and I do think I'll stick with it over the span my life, but I don't know that for certain. If I applied buy once cry once to everything, I could spend $20k easily outfitting a shop just to find I suck at the craft, get uninterested and sell everything for a nickel on the dollar ��
l

I hear ya.

Buy once cry once is really a concept; it is not universal true on everything. I go get a HF cheapo for one-time jobs or once-in-a-blue-moon applications. But when you plan to use something very often and with high expectations, don't go cheap. With cheapos, you get frustrated because you don't know if it is the tool or yourself (skills & techniques) that results in poor work. Just take the table saw as an example, so many woodworkers struggle with sawing results from their saws. I spent $4000 on a cabinet saw with all the bells andwhistles, and done with it. Perfect cuts every time -- for the rest of my woodworking life. The cabinet saw is used in 90% of my projects. $4000 is cheap if you look at the no of times it is used and the consistent results it gives you. Before I sold my Kapex, perfect cuts every time, too.

When you buy premium tools and end up having to sell them (for whatever reasons, loss of interest, say), you get 70% or so back from your investment. I often resell my tools (Festool, Veritas, etc.) recovering between 65% and 120% of my payments. With a weak brand, you would be happy to get back 50%. I often end up paying well well below rental rates to use my tools or machines after several years. People including my neighbors wonder how I could keep buying ("exchanging" in effect) new models and new tools.

Simon

[Jim Koepke]

Wow there's some great info and insight in these posts! Thanks for all of the opinions and reviews.
I don't love the idea of buy once cry once, mostly because I'm in unchartered territory here. I've just very recently gotten the finer woodworking bug, and I do think I'll stick with it over the span my life, but I don't know that for certain. If I applied buy once cry once to everything, I could spend $20k easily outfitting a shop just to find I suck at the craft, get uninterested and sell everything for a nickel on the dollar ��
There's so much to learn, and tooling is so costly- it does get pretty overwhelming pretty quickly. Being an auto mechanic by trade I'm no stranger to the costs of tools and I recognize the quality difference of low and high quality tools and the effort needed to work around the shortcomings of cheap stuff. Which is ok when you know what you're doing- and can be absolutely counter productive to a person that has no experience and doesn't know what to look for.
Just looking for that sweet spot of dollar to performance value without breaking the bank. I will say though- that veritas premium ss is one beautiful plane! Completely out of my beginners proce ranfe though lol

There is no need to spend $20k to test if your skill and enthusiasm for the craft will be sustained. One of the advantages of starting with the quality of LN or LV is their resale value is in the 80-90% recovery range. Some foreign buyers will actually pay more since a used article can avoid the import or Value Added Taxes.

As an auto mechanic, my guess is you do have knowledge of how things should fit together and how the different geometries can affect performance of a tool such as a plane. Though it could be easy to understand why at the end of the day you don't want to fettle metal, you just want to get right to working on a woodworking project. One of the most difficult aspects of woodworking is keeping the edges of the tools sharp.

Here is a repository of information that is useful to anyone getting started in woodworking or even those who have been working wood awhile.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

Being an auto mechanic by trade

If you can fix a car, you can definitely clean and tune up an old block plane. The only thing that is tricky is learning to sharpen the blade, and you need to do that regardless of whether you go new or old, premium or standard. I'm not saying whether it is worth your time to do it, but if you have that kind of skill, it is definitely a viable option.

[Adam Grund]

i have no doubt that I could clean and tune an old one up. evaluating my position right now, I think my time is better spent not having to spend the hours getting up and going, instead going right to the 'going' part.
I'm very enthusiastic about learning the craft, but at the same time I work full time, have a wife and a one year old that I value spending as much time as possible with. My time I dedicate to woodworking right now is minimal, so I'd like to make that time count.
Actually, when I put it on paper, I couldn't think of a worse time in a life to fall in love with a new hobby- but then again is there ever an opurtune time for anything?

[Andrew Seemann]

That allocation of time thing is the hard part. I used to do all my own car repairs, but now I have my mechanic do most of them, even though I still have the tools and a much better garage than I used to. It just isn't worth saving $70 to a brake job anymore. Plus the body complains a lot more about crawling under cars now compared to when I was 23. I still do some repairs, but only if I can do most of it from the topside.

I remember those days of having a one year old. Getting an extra two hours of sleep might be worth the cost of a new plane vs restoring an old one:)

[Rob Luter]

Sure, I’ll chime in.......

I have refurbed about a dozen Stanley block planes. I’m really good at it. At one point I had three 60 1/2 models of various vintages that I felt were excellent users. Then that year Santa brought a L-N 60 1/2. Game over. The L-N 102 followed. While I keep a vintage Stanley #18 and #65 (well tuned knuckle joint versions) they don’t even come close to the L-N planes. It’s not that the old timers don’t work well (they do) but the heft and precision of the L-N versions bring a whole different experience.

[Jim Koepke]

i have no doubt that I could clean and tune an old one up. evaluating my position right now, I think my time is better spent not having to spend the hours getting up and going, instead going right to the 'going' part.
I'm very enthusiastic about learning the craft, but at the same time I work full time, have a wife and a one year old that I value spending as much time as possible with. My time I dedicate to woodworking right now is minimal, so I'd like to make that time count.
Actually, when I put it on paper, I couldn't think of a worse time in a life to fall in love with a new hobby- but then again is there ever an opurtune time for anything?


That allocation of time thing is the hard part. I used to do all my own car repairs, but now I have my mechanic do most of them, even though I still have the tools and a much better garage than I used to. It just isn't worth saving $70 to a brake job anymore. Plus the body complains a lot more about crawling under cars now compared to when I was 23. I still do some repairs, but only if I can do most of it from the topside.

I remember those days of having a one year old. Getting an extra two hours of sleep might be worth the cost of a new plane vs restoring an old one:)

One of my common refrains is if you have the time but not the money, rehabilitate old tools. If you have the money and not the time, buy what you like and can afford.

With a young child in the house there are always things one can make for them like desks, tables, shelves, dressers and chairs. They may become heirlooms or passed on to friends with newborns of their own.

jtk

[Adam Grund]

With a young child in the house there are always things one can make for them like desks, tables, shelves, dressers and chairs. They may become heirlooms or passed on to friends with newborns of their own.

jtk

And that is what brings me to this current rabbit hole. My start was just building 2 sections of oddball sized cabinets for a cheap kitchen rearrangement (Which still isn't fully done. Life) and realizing how much I enjoyed it. I pretty much was only interested in case work- cabinet, pantry, bookshelf, stuff like that.
Furniture, lathe stuff, oddball creations never really appealed to me. Then one day a short while ago I was browsing an incra photo gallery and saw a really beautiful jewelry box (actually, I saw a lot of really beautiful pieces, but one really stuck out to me) and it hit me- if Some day I could build my daughter something even half as nice as that jewelry box looked, that's something she could hold on to and treasure even after I'm long gone.

[Dave Parkis]

If all you want to do is ease corners and make small chamfers, I don't think it matters too much and would suggest that you consider vintage. There are several people here that rehab and sell planes and most of us guarantee the tools we sell, so if you don't like it you can always return it. If you think you'll be venturing into joinery and trimming dovetails, I would suggest either the LN 60 1/2 low angle block or a Veritas. Lie-Nielsen tools are guaranteed forever and if you decide later on that, while there's nothing wrong with the tool, you just don't like it you can easily sell it for at least 80% of what you paid for it.

[Curt Putnam]

I only have one new point to add. When I start a new hobby (well when I did) with a steep learning curve, I have never regretted deciding to buy top-notch gear. My reasoning is/was that I wanted any failings to be clearly on me and not the tool. I have an LN 102 that I dearly love and LV LABP, Pocket plane and DX 60. I've not yet used the latter two. I also have a pair of rabbet blocks and some old, cheap Stanleys that adjust with a hammer. I may have a block plane problem. Will the WR be serviceable? Yes. But an LN or LV will lift your heart while they challenge you to do better.

[Kory Cassel]

Another point Adam,

Second tier tools may require the same sort of tuning as an antique to get them to operate properly. The savings in buying them is mitigated by time spent tuning them up plus materials used in the process. I recommend against buying any second tier tools until you are geared up to do some tuning and then you can make the value judgement based on the free time you have to devote to the task. It is probably not worth it in my opinion for a block plane.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Adam,
I am a fan of the WR planes, but I wouldn't suggest their block plane to you based on what I have read. If you have a Woodcraft store near you, I agree with others that you should drive over and try one first.

Here's a less expensive LN that lets you dip a toe in the water: buy an LN102 (https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/small-block-planes) for $115. This is an excellent tool at a good price. I bought one as my first foray into good tools. I've never been disapointed. I have since purchased other block planes and they all have their uses/place. But I still use this tool regularly. You must keep it sharp to have it work well. But you have to learn to sharpen regardless.

Best of luck on your decision!
Fred

[Randy Heinemann]

Given your current situation, I would just buy the Wood River plane. The cost is less and it will serve your needs. I have not had problems with the Wood River cap popping off and have been very satisfied with for what appears to be about the same uses you plan to put it to. Also, if you can wait, the Wood River plane may go on sale. I bought mine for either 10% or 15% off the regular price when Woodcraft was having a sale.

Restoring is a great process if that is what you want to do with your time. For me, working with wood is more interesting and satisfying than restoring tools.

I wouldn't agonize over it. I'm sure the Wood River plane will do the job you want it to as long as you keep the blade sharp. Regardless of which plane you buy, be prepared to learn about sharpening if you don't already know much about it. It is a necessity to make a plane work as desired.

[Brian Nguyen]

WoodRiver block plane is perfectly usable. I have it, along with the LN, Veritas DX, and an old Stanley 60 1/2. If I'm blindfolded and forced to pick one at random to use, I wouldn't notice any discernible difference except for the shape of each plane.

[Simon MacGowen]

Can't remember if Rob Cosman has ever been seen using a WR block plane in one of his videos, but he has used WR (V3) planes (5-1/4 or larger) to produce pristine surface, and the edge shavings were full-width and continuous for the length of the stock. Similar to what Brian noted, there is no way you can tell whether his shavings were done with a WR, LN, or Veritas. I heard that one should stay away from the earlier generations of the WR (ie prior to Cosman's involvement).

Simon

[Jason Lester]

Can't remember if Rob Cosman has ever been seen using a WR block plane in one of his videos, but he has used WR (V3) planes (5-1/4 or larger) to produce pristine surface, and the edge shavings were full-width and continuous for the length of the stock. Similar to what Brian noted, there is no way you can tell whether his shavings were done with a WR, LN, or Veritas. I heard that one should stay away from the earlier generations of the WR (ie prior to Cosman's involvement).

Simon

I used his #6 at a class to level some dovetails. It was very nice. He did mention using a LN rabbet plane for the tail boards. I'm not sure if WR makes a rabbet plane though.

[Frederick Skelly]

Given your current situation, I would just buy the Wood River plane. The cost is less and it will serve your needs.

Also, if you can wait, the Wood River plane may go on sale. I bought mine for either 10% or 15% off the regular price when Woodcraft was having a sale.

Randy made a good catch here about the sale price and he has first hand experience with the WR. If there's no sale when you need it, I'd go right to the LN102. (The LN 102 is $115 and the WR is $102.) And when you're ready for a bench plane, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the WRs - especially on sale. I personally prefer the Veritas (Lee Valley), but I get good use out of both my WR #3 and my WR #1. (I often use the #1 like a block plane. :) )

Edit: LINK (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?209704-Tool-Review-Wood-River-3-Version-3-Hand-Plane) for my review of the WR #3, for reference when you are ready for a bench plane.

[Stewie Simpson]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=yGDvkApDccM

[Simon MacGowen]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=yGDvkApDccM

Thanks.

Rob gives the same recommendation as I earlier did (regardless of brands): get the low angle... plus a spare blade.

Check WC if any sale is on its way.

Edit: Veritas does have the advantages of the set screws, chamfer guide (as an option), PMV11 blades (unless those blades also fit WR's), and optional handle to use it like a #3 (couldn't find it on its site for some reason).

Simon

[Chris Fournier]

Thanks.

Rob gives the same recommendation as I earlier did (regardless of brands): get the low angle... plus a spare blade.

Check WC if any sale is on its way.

Edit: Veritas does have the advantages of the set screws, chamfer guide (as an option), PMV11 blades (unless those blades also fit WR's), and optional handle to use it like a #3 (couldn't find it on its site for some reason).

Simon

In my opinion set screws ain't no advantage, just a marketing tool enabled by CNC production. Never owned a plane with them and never thought that I needed them. And never suffered for a lack of them.

[Simon MacGowen]

In my opinion set screws ain't no advantage, just a marketing tool enabled by CNC production. Never owned a plane with them and never thought that I needed them. And never suffered for a lack of them.

Right, the set screws aren't essential, nor is the stop-screw that prevents the mouth from hitting the blade (which is another advantage). But those set screws are there to keep the blade from shifting in use when you tighten the lever cap a "hair" loose. By that I mean with the snug clamping, I can still advance or retract the blade on the fly to the desired depth of cut without loosening the lever cap knob or the lever cap.

Because the set screws hold the blade in position, I am also able to make finer, controlled adjustments with the Norris style adjuster (usually with a hammer). In addition, after I do a quick hone on the blade, I can replace it in the exact (lateral) position in the body, which may matter for those who use cambered edges.


Simon

[Adam Grund]

Can't remember if Rob Cosman has ever been seen using a WR block plane in one of his videos, but he has used WR (V3) planes (5-1/4 or larger) to produce pristine surface, and the edge shavings were full-width and continuous for the length of the stock. Similar to what Brian noted, there is no way you can tell whether his shavings were done with a WR, LN, or Veritas. I heard that one should stay away from the earlier generations of the WR (ie prior to Cosman's involvement).

Simon

That's where I first heard of wood river. Got hooked on watching some of his videos last year, he can make some really nice stuff. Didn't notice what block plane he uses, but I've heard him say multiple times WoodRiver is the best performance for the money, and then States his bias right after that.
For the moment, I've kind of put the brands on the back burner and started searching sharpening materials and methods, and wondering what the hell im getting myself in to.

[Simon MacGowen]

That's where I first heard of wood river. Got hooked on watching some of his videos last year, he can make some really nice stuff. Didn't notice what block plane he uses, but I've heard him say multiple times WoodRiver is the best performance for the money, and then States his bias right after that.
For the moment, I've kind of put the brands on the back burner and started searching sharpening materials and methods, and wondering what the hell im getting myself in to.

Good luck with your shopping.

Sharpening?! You will hear a lot more opinions about it than WR vs LN!:p

Simon

[Adam Grund]

Good luck with your shopping.

Sharpening?! You will hear a lot more opinions about it than WR vs LN!:p

Simon

Yeah No joke!

[lowell holmes]

I would go to a store where I can pick one up. That way you will know when you find one you like.

[Adam Grund]

Closest woodcraft is about an hr away, I've been wanting to go there anyways.
There's a Cheesecake Factory up around there, so sounds like a date night to me

[Tony Zaffuto]

Northeast Ohio is close to Hartville Tool territory. There may be a few tools there to try.

The handiest tool is that one that feels comfortable in your hand. For my money, a LN 102 or the Lee Valley equivalent is a good starting point. Or watch for a forum member that has a vintage Stanley 60-1/2 for sale, and ask nice if he/she will have the blade sharpened!

[Adam Grund]

Not too far from me, though havent been there in quite a while.
They opened a 2nd location even closer to me, much smaller and from what I heard from a co worker a bit of a disappointment if you've been to the original

[Tony Zaffuto]

Not too far from me, though havent been there in quite a while.
They opened a 2nd location even closer to me, much smaller and from what I heard from a co worker a bit of a disappointment if you've been to the original

I believe they have a large flea market, where you can shop vintage. From Youngtown, I'm about two hours east, if you want to try a wide variety of planes.

[Don Howe]

I have an LN 9 1/2 and Stanley 60 1/2. Of late the LN stays the n the box while I use a Stanley 18 I picked up at a reasonable price.
I like the LN but IMO it is not enough better to justify the cost difference. I'll probably sell it.

[Carl Beckett]

These videos might be interesting to you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jWuU-Qbp4w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMKwANWawek