Choose my Sawstop for me

[Kevin Smira]

So Sandy Clause has decided that I can get a Sawstop for Christmas and my anniversary (Jan 14). So, now I’m looking to see what to get. I think I’ve pretty much got it narrowed down to the PCS 1.75hp (no 220 in garage and not going to put it in). I am not interested in the 30” fence, so 36 or 52 it is. I’ve got to rearrange for the saw, so I can accommodate either length fence.

Also, looking at overarm dust collection, but unsure of which one to get. Looks like the “overarm dust collection” uses 2.5” at the blade and that hooks into the 4” at the base. Whereas the floating arm uses 4” through the tube to a sep connection?

Also looking at mobile bases.

Lastly looking at a dado blade for saw.

Thanks!
Kevin

[Dan Rude]

A good choice for the 1.75 PCS, I got the 3 HP one. Due to some health issues, I did not get it hooked up for a while. I love the saw now that it is running. I got the 36" rails, the 52" would have been too big for my basement shop. Others will say get the Industrial Base, I wish I did, but manage with the PCS base. I have the standard guard with the 2.5" port, I run a hose to a small shop vac across the ceiling. Just upgraded this last black Friday to a C-Man 3 HP 6 Gallon vac from ACE, that does a much better job. Enjoy the saw! Dan

[Larry Frank]

36" Rails and Fence

Industrial mobile base

Overran dust collection based upon what dust collector you have

Buy an extra brake cartridge

[Ken Krawford]

If you can wait, Sawstop usually offers either a free mobile base or overarm dust collection option. I think this offer starts late March.

[Nick Decker]

Your situation sounds very similar to mine (except that I already bought one :)). 1.75 hp is working just fine, as are the 36" rails.

The ICS base is more important in small spaces like mine, where the saw needs to move in an arc to get into position/storage.

I'm using the 2.5" dust collector setup, with just a single 4" DC fitting. At first, I wasn't impressed with the dust collection at the blade, could barely feel any suction from that hose. Then I noticed the actual lack of collection when I had to make cuts without the guard in the picture. The small hose is pulling in more than I thought, and my guess is that includes a lot of the small, invisible junk. I'm sure a dedicated vac on that hose would be better, if you choose to go that route.

I have yet to read any glowing reviews of the larger 4" setup. Looks cumbersome to me.

Here's a tip: Check your blade-to-miter slot for parallel before you start assembling the cast iron wings and table. I didn't need to change mine, but if you need to, the adjustment points are easier to get at. Not a big deal either way, just something to think about.

[Patrick Walsh]

I personally bog down 5hp cabinet saws all the time ripping hardwood. It’s no big deal and usually my own fault as I’m feeding reall fast.

Non the less I would have no patients for less power. I’d go for ICS..

[Steve Mathews]

Since you already decided on the PCS and 1.75 hp I recommend the largest size rails that will fit in your shop, extra cartridge and industrial base with special emphasis on the latter. The smaller overarm dust collection is overpriced and anemic in my opinion. Don't forget the dado cartridge and insert if needed. I'm not overly impressed with my 5hp ICS but it's an OK saw.

[Patrick Walsh]

As Steve said the overarm dust collector is anemic.

If you can run you hard duct work to right above the saw. Then add a 4” adapter to a short run of 4” fleet hose. You will get excellent results and it cost about the same as the Sawstop stuff going all quick fit Nordfab. With this said I hardly ever use over blade dust collection. But when I do it really reall works.

I also second the mobile base. It is very nice. Get whatever length rails suit you best. You can always buy longer ones from sawstop for fairly short money if you ch get your mind.

[Kevin Smira]

Thanks for all the help thus far. As far as DC goes, I don’t have anything currently and will be getting it with the SS. As it sits currently, the SS will be the only thing on the DC. I have a lunchbox planer that I’ll most likely hook up to the DC however. I don’t own a bandsaw or jointer, so I won’t have that to contend with. My mitre saw is on a mobile cart and I just wheel that out to the driveway when I use it,

I’ll be replacing a ridgid job site saw that I never could adjust for square and frankly, just don’t trust it to cut anything but rough dims. I then true everything up with handplanes.

I wasn’t expecting this until the wife told me yesterday to call the local (1.5hrs away) woodcraft and see what they had in stock. I thought she was kidding, but I think there may be some hidden agendas in store here...

[Patrick Walsh]

If your suspicions are true, and they probably are......

PASS ON THE SAW!

[ChrisA Edwards]

The industrial bas e is a life saver in a small area. I got the overarm dust collector, but prefer to use my cross cut sled most of the time , so the overarm just sits in a corner. I didn't pay for it, it was part of the promotion.

I have the 36" rail setup, due to shop space.

The OEM blade is alright, but search around this forum, because there's many that are better and these get discussed fairly frequently.

Mine is 115V, I did occasionally have issues running my saw and Jet dust collector on the same 20A circuit. Fortunately, I have multiple 20A circuits, but it meant one of them had to use an extension cord.

Sounds like you might be getting the shop floor model already assembled, but if not, the instructions and packaging are excellent.

[Kevin Womer]

36" Rails and Fence

Industrial mobile base

Overran dust collection based upon what dust collector you have

Buy an extra brake cartridge

+1 but I would add a dado cartridge and throat plate from Infinity Tools, love mine and haven’t regretted the shorter fence. I love the industrial mobile base but rarely use the over arm dust collection. Also, be advised if you get a dado set, 8 inch are the only size you can use and make sure the blades do not have the anti kick back tabs on them as they are not recommended by Sawstop due to the safety brake.

[Jon Nuckles]

I have the 3hp pcs with 52” rail, overarm dust collection and pcs mobile base.

If you cut sheet goods often, I’d recommend getting the longest rail you can fit in your shop. Even with my 52” rail, the overarm dust collection sometimes interferes with cuts on full sheets and I need to disconnect it and rotate the vertical section of tubing to horizontal to get it out of the way. I assume, but don’t know for certain, that the overarm is sized for your rail length and would be a bigger problem for sheet goods with a shorter rail. If the 4” ducted dust collection avoids this interference, I’d go for it just for this reason, and I work with hardwoods far more often than sheet goods.

The dust collection is pretty good with the smaller tube unless you are just trimming the edge of a board, in which case dust sprays all over the table. It does occasionally clog at the blade guard if very thin offcuts are sucked up into it, and it can be a pain to get into and clean out. That’s another reason to look at the 4” duct option.

The pcs base works great for me, but I almost never move my saw and I have a big dedicated shop space right now and can roll it back and forth to move it when I need to. If you will move it often in a smaller space, users rave about the quality of the ics base and you should consider that.

Your mind is made up about the motor and I won’t try to change it, though I am tempted to.

I can’t imagine working without outfeed support. If you have room for a dedicated outfeed cabinet, that is easy to build. A folding outfeed support is also easy to make yourself, and the most recent Fine Woodworking “Tools and Shops” issue has an article by Christian Becksvoort on one. If you want a factory option, though, Sawstop offers one. I haven’t read much about it, but may look into it myself when I downsize my shop. It may only work with one of the two mobile base options, so there might be a tradeoff involved.

The Sawstop promotion of the free pcs mobile base or overarm dust collection is worth about $199. If you are interested in either of those items, it might be worth waiting for. It is the only price break you will find on a Sawstop unless some place will offer free shipping without increasing the saw price to hide that cost. When I looked at my local Woodcraft, they already had the shipping cost baked into the saw price, then they wanted to charge for local delivery. I believe in paying the required sales/use tax whether or not the seller collects it, but others may look for online vendors that allow them to avoid it.

The Sawstop blade is a typical cheap blade included with any saw. Don’t plan to use it for anything but rough cuts. You may want an extra brake, just in case, but Amazon has them with same day or next day delivery if that doesn’t set you off schedule too much to bear. You will need a dado cartridge and throat plate. I’d also recommend a blank plate to cut yourself for zero clearance. The included plate, at least when I bought mine, is not zero clearance because it requires more space to allow for angled cuts.

[Ben Rivel]

3HP PCS 36" with Overarm and ICS mobile base.

Highly recommend setting some money aside for some high quality blades (I recommend Forrest, thats all I use). Love the saw, zero complaints. 36" has been more than enough for me as I have no interest in breaking down sheets with my table saw. I have a track saw for that. Overarm dust collection works awesome after swapping the wye for an actual Y splitter. Other than that I recommend a Jessem ClearCut Stock Guides, some MagSwitch feather boards and an Incra miter gauge!

[Simon MacGowen]

. Other than that I recommend a Jessem ClearCut Stock Guides, some MagSwitch feather boards and an Incra miter gauge!

+1 on the stock guides. With that in place, you can handle 4x8s all by yourself. No sweat.

Be careful with the Incra fence...more than a couple of my friends activated their SawStop when the blade cut through the fence!

Simon

[Peter Christensen]

Be careful with the Incra fence...more than a couple of my friends activated their SawStop when the blade cut through the fence!

Simon

Osborne mitre gauge can do the same. DAMHIK twice. :eek: :( :eek: :(

[Richard Wolf]

If you get a blank throat insert to make a zero clearance, be sure to remove the spliter before raising the blade through the insert. If you don't, you will push the spliter onto the blade and set out the brake.

[Kevin Smira]

Thanks again to everyone. I think I’m leaning towards the 36” as I’ll continue to use my TS55 to breakdown sheet goods. Like I said earlier, I’ll have the room for either, as I’m rearranging my garage to make the saw fit, so I can do so. However, I don’t think it will be in my benefit to get the 52” rails, but that’s what I initially said, and it’s only a $100 difference, so who knows. I’ve decided on the ICS base, though my local Woodcraft doesn’t show one in stock. Will probably just pick that up on amazon or somewhere like that. Already have the money for a WWII or equivalent blade (haven’t decided on which one yet) as well as a dado, cartridge and throat plate. Will probably add another throat plate to make a ZC insert...didn’t even think about that one.

As I don’t have 220, and live in a rental house and don’t want to put in 220, but we have a contractor friend that might run it for me, but I’m unsure of cost. Would the 3hp run on 110, or is it strictly 220? I know the 1.75 can be retrofitted for 220, but was unsure of the opposite.

[Simon MacGowen]

You need 220v for 3HP.

Your ZCI options: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fk66IacfJ6o

Simon

[Mike Henderson]

As I don’t have 220, and live in a rental house and don’t want to put in 220, but we have a contractor friend that might run it for me, but I’m unsure of cost. Would the 3hp run on 110, or is it strictly 220? I know the 1.75 can be retrofitted for 220, but was unsure of the opposite.

The 3HP is strictly 240V. The 1.75HP is about all you can get out of a 120V 15 amp circuit. 120 times 15 is 1,800 watts. A HP is about 750 watts which would give you 2.4HP if everything was perfect. But motors are not 100% efficient and you have a higher draw at startup so you wind up with about 1.75 HP as the biggest induction motor you can reliably operate on 120V.

You could probably operate a 2HP motor on a 20 amp circuit but the company has to design for 15 amp circuits.

I'd spend the money to put in a 240V circuit and buy the 3HP unit. That's a saw you'll keep for life and I wouldn't want to be limited forever to 1.75HP.

Mike

[Frank Pratt]

I have a 3HP PCS with 36" fence. I needed the room & honestly, the 52" fence on my last saw very rarely saw use past about 30". The ICS is great if you have tight quarters & need to move the saw in multiple directions.

I got mine when they were running the promo & chose the mobile base. I returned the base for credit & got the ICS base. The other promo choice was the OH tubing for guard collection, but for me it's an awkward setup. I fed the guard with a 2.5" flex from an OH duct. It sucks better than the OEM setup & is not in the way.

[johnny means]

We've got a 1.75 hp at my job. IMO, it feels like a circular saw mounted to a table. Granted, we're working in the age of the "slab table" and I suppose most people aren't pushing 8/4 stock through a saw everyday. But if...

[Simon MacGowen]

5 HP, 480 V, 3 ph (at a friend's shop) is what I use for 8/4 stock.

Simon

[Neil Gaskin]

The floating over arm looks exactly like the General overarm I have. It works fairly well and swings nicely out of the way when needed.

[Simon MacGowen]

Don't, repeat, don't get the floating arm if it is similar to this: https://woodworker.com/overarm-tablesaw-guard-wdust-collection-mssu-914-337.asp

It is heavy and unless you have a large dust collector, you will regret it. My friend changed its old floating arm with the overarm dust collection and it's day and night in ease of use and dust collection. You can make thinner rip cuts with the overarm dust collection than this heavy and sometimes sticky floating arm. Most importantly, when you change the fence setting you may need to adjust the floating arm in or out, too, but not the case with the overarm dust collection/dust collection blade guard. You also have to adjust the shroud up and down when cutting stock of different thicknesses; again not the case with the overarm dust collection.blade guard.

Simon

[Ray Newman]

I run an 3HP ICS with 52" tables. As for zero clearance inserts, Infinity tools makes a very useful insert with replaceable inserts to accommodate different blade kerfs and different width dadoes. Not exactly cheap, but I soon found how useful it is, especially for dadoes of various widths. If you purchase a SawStop insert for a zero clearance and another for dadoes, you are just about at the price of the Infinity ZCI.

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-zero-clearance-inserts/sawstop-zero-clearance-throat-plate-with-two-inserts.

As far as blades: Forrest! -- been running them for 30+ years and no regrets. Also purchase a rip blade -- easier on the saw as the blade is designed for to effortlessly rip and clear the saw dust from the blade gullets. For years, I ran a Forrest WWII, then I had to rip a number of 2x4s. Decided to finally buy a rip blade and it cut like a hot knife in soft butter. Hardly any effort to feed the work into the blade.

As for the fence, opt for the T-glide fence, much better than the stock fence.

I first ran the overarm dust collector which worked well as was hooked up to a Oneida cyclone with a 5" duct. I then opted for the Floating Dust Collector (DC) because I prefer to attach an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge and the sliding table fence. The auxiliary fence extends to the right of the blade to act as a sweep to remove the cut offs away from the blade. I keep the plastic hood on the Floating DC extended to the left so I will not have the move it for bevels cuts. If you will be making thin cuts, the SawStop PCS manual shows how to fabricate an auxiliary fence and push block to rip safely.

Like others, I have the Jessem stock guides. I mounted the guides on a 1X3 , then added a MagSwitch front and rear to avoid drilling into the fence. Now it is easy on, easy off.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/magswitch-magjig-150-switchable-magnet

I was not impressed with the SawStop miter gauge and when I sold my old Uni-saw, I retained the INCRA 1000SE miter gauge.

My only SawStop regret is that is does not have a rip fence with a high and low position like my old Uni-fence had.

As an aside, here is a thread about "improving" the SawStop fences: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?199079-Perfect-Sawstop-fence-faces-finally

[Jim Dwight]

I bought the 1.75hp PCS a little before Thanksgiving. I like it but it certainly is not perfect. Due to the size of my shop and preference on how to work, I use my DeWalt track saw on large pieces of solid wood and sheet goods. I looked at the 30 inch fence at a local store but the 36 is a much nicer fence so that is what I got. I bought the Infinity zero clearance plate and made my own inserts for it last night. It is a good addition. The SawStop plates are not cheap but are made kind of cheap. I use the stock insert for cuts at an angle. I am using my shop vac on the exhaust at the moment and it works OK. It gets the bulk of the mess but not the fine stuff. I need to add a DC. I also got the essential blade pack from Infinity. It is a 50 tooth all purpose blade and a 24 tooth rip blade. I've used the 50 tooth for everything so far including a few rips in 8/4 oak. Those went well but I've had it struggle a little on a few rips in 5/4 oak. Seems to happen when the board closes up on the kerf. I got the full width blade pack and should probably have gotten the thin kerf. The 50 tooth also seems to burn the good side of some rips but leaves a very smooth surface. I blamed that on a half a degree toe in and reset it to about the same toe out. Still does it. I need to try another blade. But I don't think it's the saw.

The stock miter gauge is nearly useless. The stock blade is good for only rough work. The saw is also HEAVY. I managed it by myself but you need to plan it carefully. I could not pick it up but I could tilt it up. I also could walk it off the pallet it came with onto the mobile base I built. It took a long time to assemble it. It would be a good idea to plan on several hours and have a helper. But even with some drawbacks it is by far the nicest table saw I have owned.

[Simon MacGowen]

I am using my shop vac on the exhaust at the moment and it works OK. It gets the bulk of the mess but not the fine stuff. I need to add a DC

The 50 tooth also seems to burn the good side of some rips but leaves a very smooth surface. I blamed that on a half a degree toe in and reset it to about the same toe out. Still does it. I need to try another blade. But I don't think it's the saw.

The stock miter gauge is nearly useless. The stock blade is good for only rough work. The saw is also HEAVY. I managed it by myself but you need to plan it carefully. I could not pick it up but I could tilt it up. I also could walk it off the pallet it came with onto the mobile base I built. It took a long time to assemble it. It would be a good idea to plan on several hours and have a helper. But even with some drawbacks it is by far the nicest table saw I have owned.

Not sure from your post if you have overarm dust collection and dust collection blade guard. If you do, after you the dc (1.5 HP or more) for the 4" port, hook up the shop vac to the overarm dust collection tube directly and you will get 99.50% or plus dust collection most of the time.

Not sure if it's the fence or your blade. No burns here with the WWII in regular rips. Sometimes on 2" thick hard maple though.

I think SawStop recommends 3 persons to handle the PCS (400 lbs plus)...1 (solo) is a bit risky to me.

Simon

[Justin Horne]

I originally was going to get the 1.75hp to save some money...but I also thought about "what if" and ultimately settled on the 3hp pcs 52" tglide with industrial base. Had the electrician out to run 220 for the ss, dc, a couple more 110's because why not, and had them run 6 new can lights in the kitchen for the mrs.

I have crosscut 8/4 black walnut with a fine crosscut blade, and the saw didnt slow down a tick. I doubt the 1.75 would have not bogged down.

So all in all, spend the extra dough and be happy. If you settle for the 1.75, you might find yourself wishing you had the 3hp.

[Bill Space]

I hesitate to join those above who said to upgrade your electrical and get the 3 HP saw. But that is VERY sound advice if you can swing it. (I know you said this will not happen)

Myself, I moved from a Sears contractors saw to a 5 HP saw of the same 10” size. From where I am now, 3 HP seems the minimum I would want if I had to make that move again.

Just another thought. I learned long ago to choose wisely, as decisions made today often have to be lived with for a long time.

Bill

[Dustin Bullard]

Just to throw this out there...

The difference between the 1.75hp and 3hp saws is literally the switch box (120v vs 220v) and the motor*. You can upgrade the 1.75hp saw to 220 any time by replacing the switch box, and you can upgrade the motor to the 3HP as long as you have the 220v switch box... Unlike most manufacturers, SawStop will happily sell you what you need to upgrade the 1.75HP saw to 3HP...

Now I'm not certain on the pricing (IIRC the cost is around $550 for the motor/switch box) but everyone jumping on the buy the 3hp saw or you will regret it train probably isn't taking into consideration that you can just upgrade the saw later for about the same cost as the price difference between the two saws...

*The 3HP saw comes with the nicer dust collection blade guard but that's not really part of the saw itself...

Oh, just to add one extra detail... I work almost exclusively with 8/4 Maple/Walnut stock to make cutting boards and have yet to have my 1.75HP saw bog down on me. I'll admit that I swap between a thin kerf Freud Premier Fusion combo blade and a thin kerf Freud Industrial 24T Ripping blade but it's been handled everything I have thrown at it so far... I'm not saying the 3HP saw isn't totally necessary for everyone but if you aren't out to plow through material at mach 3 you may find that you don't need the 3HP saw at all... Regardless its realistically a $110 gamble (price difference between the 1.75HP + 3HP Parts is ~$110 more than the 3HP outright...) If you can't swing that then you are probably in the wrong hobby anyways ;)

[Bill Space]

Dustin, that is very interesting!

Wonder what the exact prices are today? Just thinking about IIRC and me personally...:eek:

Your point is very well taken at this end. I would have never guessed that one could upgrade a SawStop to higher horsepower for about the price difference between the two power levels, and have the original motor left over to boot.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 52" fence and for the way I work actually wish I had the 36". I too do sheet goods with my TS55 and have not dedicated the acreage to the necessary in/out feed for sheet goods. Dado blades do require a special dado cartridge. If you haven't spent time with a SS before, by all means get a spare cartridge. I quickly blew my first cartridge by getting my Accumiter bar to close to the blade. Who knew? SS kindly provided me with a one time rookie replacement at no charge. Being used to a Uni-saw I had to learn to really pay attention to every new piece of wood I was cutting and its condition. Get the extra cartridge and unlike me, be smart and don't use it!

[Rick Costa]

Personally I'm running the 52" with 3hp motor. I got the overarm dust collection as part of the promotion when I bought the saw. At the time i had an anemic DC so I let that pull only at the 4" port in the base and used my Festool CT26 to connect under the saw to the arm which works great. I now have a Dust Gorilla Cyclone for the whole shop bit still use the same set up as my outfeed table has a spot for my Kapex. I suggest waiting for the sale in March and getting to overarm collector and skipping on the base or getting the ICS base if you really need mobility. My saw never moves and I'd think long and hard about if you really need yours to move.

A 220 circuit is nothing special just your normal 12 gauge (20 amp) or 14 guage (15 amp) wire doing to a double breaker. Depending on your setup if your not too far from the panel you could put an offset on the panel and install an outlet there and either put a longer 12 guage rubber cord on the saw or make yourself a heavy guage extension. Very simple and not an expensive proposition at all.

Get a quality blade (Forest?), make an outfeed or buy depending on your space as it is critical. Consider the router table mounted to the left side as it will increase your ease in ripping wide sheets easily.

Lots of other jigs and ideas will come later but those are some top of mind thoughts.

[liam c murphy]

I started with the 1.75 HP PCS. After having a subpanel installed in the shop,
I added a 3HP motor. I switched motors in summer of 2018, and the costs mentioned above sound accurate. The process of switching motors is fairly easy. My only complaint about the 3HP motor is that it isn’t a 5HP motor.

[Jack Frederick]

I guess we work much differently, Rick. While my 3hp 52" doesn't move often, the mobility kit makes it very easy to do. Depending upon what I am cutting, I sometimes spin the saw for clearance on long rips. Depends on your space and way in which you work. On my 1 1/2 hp Grizzly Cyclone, which is also a mobile unit I have a 4" wye. One 4" branch to the SS and the other has a 4x2 reducer that the hose from an old Fein vac fits and connects to the overarm. It does a really good job, imho.

[Bill Space]

Just a thought, but on my saw I have a 52" fence. Not a SawStop, but that is irrelevant for this comment.

One thing I like about the longer fence rail, is that when I use my table saw sled, I can just push the fence to the right and it is well out of the way. With a shorter 36" fence that might not be possible, and require removing the fence to use the sled.

With my Unifence, removal is simple and not an issue, but i still like just being able to push it to the side and forget about it.

Also with the wider fence position, I was able to incorporate a router table, and use the table saw fence with the router as well.

So the longer fence rail has some desirable advantages in my case. Perhaps in the OP's case too...

[Simon MacGowen]

Also with the wider fence position, I was able to incorporate a router table, and use the table saw fence with the router as well.



Some people have decided to have a separate fence for the router (if installed on the tablesaw), because they found out that if they needed to make a rip cut in the middle of a routing operation, they had to move the saw fence and that could screw up the fence setting for the routing.

Simon

[Jon Nuckles]

I forgot to address the miter gauge in my earlier post. As others have pointed out and as is the case with most table saw purchases, you should plan to get an after-market one. Everyone seems to like the Incra gauges, but I prefer the Kreg.

[Lee Schierer]

Everyone seems to like the Incra gauges, but I prefer the Kreg.
That is what I have and I really like it.

[Kevin Smira]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express, so I’ll most likely leave it on there. However, I have to replace the panels as my ridgid job site is a right tilt saw and the SS is a left tilt.

[Gary Cunningham]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express, so I’ll most likely leave it on there. However, I have to replace the panels as my ridgid job site is a right tilt saw and the SS is a left tilt.

Triple check that the Incra is in the correct slot before making a cut. And if you cut angles make sure to adjust the arm so it doesn’t make contact with the blade.
:rolleyes::cool::mad:

[Nick Decker]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express...

This is exactly how my first and only misfire occured. The miter fence position was set for the Express, then I moved it to the SawStop and forgot to check the blade clearance. Forewarned...

[Kevin Smira]

This is exactly how my first and only misfire occured. The miter fence position was set for the Express, then I moved it to the SawStop and forgot to check the blade clearance. Forewarned...

Haha. Thanks! I actually will probably just take it off the sled and use it as is with a sacrificial fence. The sled and drop panel was ok on my job site saw.