Festool tracks - is double duty possible?

[Tom DiBiasio]

I am considering adding the Makita cordless tracksaw to my collection, before pulling the trigger I have a question for those smarter than me. I already own a ts75 and three rails, so I obviously don't want to buy new rails for the makita. So I have read in the ts55 suplimental manual about the technique to "adjust" multiple saws to the same track but those were both festool saws and had adjustment screws. So my thinking is that if I buy all new strips and set them first with the makita then adjust the tS75 to fit the freshly cut rail then life should be good and I can interchange the saws on the same tracks, granted that is until I change any of the blades that result in diff kerf size. Now almost every time in the past were I have concocted these plans and assured my mind that things will work perfectly, then outlay a ton of cash only to find out I missed some obvious point and the plan falls apart. Has anyone done this before or can provide me some level of assurance before I pull the trigger? At minimum can someone who owned the cordless makita tell me if there is the possibility to adjust the blade to rail distance?

TomD

[Larry Edgerton]

I have both and use the festool tracks for the Makita, and the Makita track for the Festool. Every time the blade wobbles a bit those strips are useless, so if something is picky I made a gauge that rides on the track for marking. Got tired of replacing the strips.

[Jeff Bartley]

Your plan should work Tom. I adjusted two Festool track saws to work with interchangeable tracks a month or so ago, the procedure is really easy.
But one of your saws might have less adjustment than the other so make sure you set it first.
I found the adjustment procedure by googling it; it's not in the regular manual.

[Tom DiBiasio]

Hi Larry - any chance you can share more info about the "gauge" you mentioned. A pic or two would be even better.

TomD

[Van Huskey]

Download the supplemental manual (you should do it for all your tools they have one for) for the TS55 and go to page 22, it describes using multiple saws on the same guide rails.

Manuals both normal and supplemental can be found here:

https://www.festoolusa.com/service/owners-manuals

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have both - Festool and Makita - ( you WILL absolutely love the Makita cordless!)
I sprung for an extra 55" Makita track and use that for the Makita and the Festool tracks for the Festool.
In the grand scheme of things, and with as much $$$ as I have invested in everything - the ~$80 for the extra Makita track was really insignificant - especially considering the cost of the Festool splinter strips (what are they, $35?- I'm too lazy/pressed for time to look it up)


At minimum can someone who owned the cordless makita tell me if there is the possibility to adjust the blade to rail distance?I'll run out to the garage later this morning, when I get back from my daily swim, and check. I'm like 90% sure the Makita has a similar saw to track adjustment that the Festool has.

[Simon MacGowen]

In the grand scheme of things, and with as much $$$ as I have invested in everything - the ~$80 for the extra Makita track was really insignificant - especially considering the cost of the Festool splinter strips (what are they, $35?- I'm too lazy/pressed for time to look it up).

Best advice here. Why bring pain to yourself in adjustments, fine-tuning, or with precision cuts gone astray for under $100? One day, if you find anything surplus to your needs, sell them. This is how I keep using and enjoying new tools and machines with little worries about the minor differences in the initial purchases.

Simon

[keith micinski]

I also want to hear more about this gauge. I think your saying instead of relying on the rubber piece, that doesn't do much good as a straight edge because your right it gets all cut up and out of whack as soon as you actually start using the saw, you made something that slides along the rail the saw uses and that places a mark on the piece your cutting showing you where the blade actually is going to cut?

[Jim Morgan]

I also want to hear more about this gauge. I think your saying instead of relying on the rubber piece, that doesn't do much good as a straight edge because your right it gets all cut up and out of whack as soon as you actually start using the saw, you made something that slides along the rail the saw uses and that places a mark on the piece your cutting showing you where the blade actually is going to cut?

Can't help with the gauge, but next time you put on new edge strips, start them with a very shallow backwards (climb) cut. This results in a very clean edge.

[Larry Edgerton]

I also want to hear more about this gauge. I think your saying instead of relying on the rubber piece, that doesn't do much good as a straight edge because your right it gets all cut up and out of whack as soon as you actually start using the saw, you made something that slides along the rail the saw uses and that places a mark on the piece your cutting showing you where the blade actually is going to cut?

You got it. I made a piece out of HMW that fits fairly tight on the rail, screwed a piece of aluminum to it that I cut to where the blade actually cuts, split it in half so I could have one on each end. Most times I resize with the panel saw, but when I need to be precise I use these. Camera is broken, can't take a pic. I line them up with the marks on the piece, clamp, pop them off and make the cut.

Rich is right, the Makita cordless is an awesome saw, cut is great, for a lot less.