Help with Router Table Build Needed

[Steve Siwek]

Hello,
I garbage picked this mobile kitchen island that I want to turn into my router table. This has a wood top 1.25 thick. Do I need to put a laminate or other material on top of the wood or can I start modifying the top?

Thanks!
Steve

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[Jim Dwight]

Laminate is not necessary. A waxed wood surface will be slick enough. You also do not need a router plate. I never use one. You will need to recess the underside of the top for the router, however. It should be no more than 1/2 an inch thick where the router mounts to prevent you extending the bit too far from the collet and getting in trouble. My fence is held in place by very short bar clamps that grab the outside of the top. You might want to think of something like that.

[Andrew Seemann]

Putting laminate on a solid wood top will cause problems with expansion and contraction, namely the wood will expand and contract, but the laminate won't. Laminates are typically put on particle board or MDF; it is one of the few places where particle board works well, so long as all sides are sealed against moisture. If the current top is flat enough and stays flat enough, wood would be fine. If you end up having problems with stability, you can always change to laminate on particle board or MDF.

Using a router insert is quite handy to remove the router for changing bits, plus they are only a 1/4 thick, so they don't take up too much bit length. They also make mounting easy, you just cut out for the insert and leave enough material in the corners for leveling screws.

The "Deluxe Router Station" episode of the New Yankee Workshop is available for free watching on the newyankee site (Season 15, Episode 2). It is a pretty good overview on how to make a router table. It isn't exactly what you are doing, but it covers the basics quite well. Norm did like his routers.

As an added bonus, the "Wall Mounted Tool Chest" featuring the Studley tool chest is available from that that same season. The beginning of that one is definitely worth watching as well.

[Rick Potter]

Just a thought. If the wood on your find is 'punky' or soft from water, you may be able to simply reverse it. I would check it out before deciding how to continue.

I agree with Andrew. No laminate on solid wood.

It looks like it will be a nice size RT.

[andy bessette]

The lower cabinet will just be in the way of accessing the router. And the solid wood top will not likely remain flat.

Here is what I did for my router table: attached an old cast iron table saw top as an extension to my Unisaw. That way my table saw fence can be used with the router.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZR0bfb5B/shop-1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Steve Siwek]

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Just got the stationary base attached and center hole cut out. Need to secure the top and work on guides etc.

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[andy bessette]

That hole is way too small. You'll need to greatly enlarge it and install a removable insert.

[Frank Pratt]

Yes, the hole will be too small for many router bits. Some questions:
- How is the router secured to the plywood top?
- What do you have to reinforce the plywood?
- How will you change the router bits?

[Brian Behrens]

How flat is that wood top? Do you plan on cutting any joinery with the router table? For $30 you can buy a sheet of mdf and make a torsion box that has a much greater likelihood of being and remaining flat. If you're not cutting joinery you may get away with an unflat top