Help picking a new table saw blade

[Tim M Tuttle]

Morning all,

I have a SawStop contractor saw with a 1.75 hp motor. The stock blade is getting pretty dull so I am wanting to take this opportunity to upgrade to the Forrest WWII. Should I go with a full .125 kerf or one of their thin kerf blades? What are the pros and cons to each? Obviously, a thin kerf will help my smallish motor but what are the drawbacks? My stock blade handled 8/4 walnut and maple just fine (when it was sharp) and it has a .118 kerf. Not sure how much difference going to a full .125 would make. Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks!

[Nick Decker]

The full kerf WWII is what's on my SawStop 1.75 PCS most of the time. IMO, where thin kerfs suffer (flex) is on skimming/trim cuts and especially on cutting bevels. I generally avoid them, but if you're cutting a lot of 2" hardwood they might make sense for you. My advice, have both available.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Tim, I had no problem cutting 8/4 hardwood with a full kerf rip blade with a 1.25HP contractor saw.

I recommend you buy an FS Tool 24 tooth rip blade.............Regards, Rod.

[Roger Feeley]

Tim, think about a family of blades. I use all Amana and they cut great. But...

The blades are all slightly different diameters. I also have a SawStop and the different diameters mean I have to adjust the safety system clearance every time. Actually it's two adjustments. I back the sensor off, install the blade and then adjust it closer.

If all my blades were exactly the same diameter, I wouln't have to worry about adjustment unless I changed cartridges.

I don't know if the blade world has given this any thought. A nominal 10" diameter is generally considered fine unless you have a SawStop. And then it's not much bother. But I can tell you that if I were shopping for a new brand and someone offered consistent diameters, that would be a tie-breaker.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have both of the Forrest WWII in 1/8" and .118" on my SawStop 1.75. I initially went with the 1/8" Forrest when my SawStop OEM blade started to get a little dull.

As the WWII started to leave a few burn marks, I decided to get the thin kerf as I sent the 1.8" back to Forrest for sharpening.

At this point, the thin kerf hasn't come off the saw. I love both blades.

[Jim Becker]

Silver's Mill has a nice sale on Forrest blades at present if that's helpful to you.

[Nick Decker]

The concept of all blades being exactly the same would be fine until you start sharpening them and they lose a little diameter each time. I check the clearance every time I change the blade, takes about 15 seconds.

[Lee Schierer]

I regularly rip hickory, maple and oak on my 1-1/2 Hp saw with a full kerf Freud Glue line rip bade with no problems or bogging down.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Silver's Mill has a nice sale on Forrest blades at present if that's helpful to you.

Nice! Good deal. Buying one today. Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Nice! Good deal. Buying one today. Thanks!
They are very nice folks to do business with. In fact, a few weeks ago, I noted to them that their Black Friday sale wasn't providing any "love" to those of us who require 12" blades. While the primarily sell the 10" versions for obvious reasons of market share, they actually reacted positively and added some things for the twelve-inch crowd which I subsequently took advantage of. Shipping is quick, too.

[Brett Luna]

Just to help out those who might look for it...and because I made the same mistake myself...it's Slivers Mill (https://www.sliversmill.com/). I mis-typed it as "silver" a couple/three times before placing my first order with them a few days ago for my first Forrest product: the 4-piece finger/box joint blade set. Great price and nice folks.