View Full Version : CerMark LMM-6060 Grrrrr

Tim Bateson
12-17-2018, 8:29 AM
OK, you know I am a LMM-6038 fan & VERY unhappy it's no longer available. Seriously you had to try pretty hard to mess up a job using 6038. It would work no matter how thin or thick. Even runs weren't much of an issue. Currently, I'm stuck using LMM-14 - very touchy or the old LMM-6000 - not very versatile.
So anyway, I decided to try their LMM-6060 replacement... First sample, I diluted with DNA - It wanted to separate like oil & water. I reduced the dilution until it worked, but was then too thick (engraved badly). So, I then tried another sample, diluting this time with water. Looked good... at first, but still separated before it could dry (water dries many times slower than DNA). Did I just get screwed with a bad batch or has anyone else had issues with 6060? I'm going to keep experimenting.
Did I mention I miss the 6038 formula?

Kev Williams
12-17-2018, 11:20 AM
I recently bought and tried EnduraMark, LMM-14, and LaserBond, which looks and acts exactly like LMM-14... Other than what I used for my testing, I haven't touched them...

Never tried 6030, guess I can't now.

I'm curious about the 'not very versatile' comment about 6000- in what way? It's ALL I used for 18 years, I've used it successfully on SS, titanium, nickel, brass, aluminum- the only thing I've not been able to blacken is chrome. But only tried it once, and there ARE different versions of chrome, some may work, don't know. Never tried it on copper, never needed to...

Mike Null
12-17-2018, 12:05 PM
I use 6000 also and find it very reliable. Never able to mark brass but I haven't tried with my 80 watt machine. EnduraMark works if you spray it but it is not compatible with a foam brush--my preferred application method.

Tim Bateson
12-17-2018, 1:37 PM
With 6038 even Chrome was a breeze. Did pewter & Brass too. Like I've said it was nearly impossible to screw it up. Problem I have with 6000 is it's limitations. Where 6038 worked on most any metals, 6000 is better suited to only Stainless Steel. Yes, one "could" use it elsewhere, but it isn't well suited for much else. Also 6000 works best with just a very light coating. In a perfect world no problem. With a foam brush - hit & miss. Get a bit too much or a run and it can mess up the project. None of that was an issue with 6038.
Anyway, they killed that formula. Still don't know why they'd do something that dumb. Now I'm looking for a substitute other than 14. The 6060 is "suppose" to be that formula. I'm not yet convinced.

Mike Null
12-18-2018, 7:52 AM
You might contact the owner of Enduramark. He seems to be a knowledgeable fellow and might give you some ideas. I'm sorry I can't remember the name but he won't be hard to reach.

John Lifer
12-18-2018, 12:12 PM
I've done limited testing on brass with 14 and 6000 and so far 6000 wins, but I'd much rather fiber brass. Now laserbond, in ALL my testing it was a complete fail on every surface. May just be me, but no go. 14 works easy but isn't dead black, i've moved to 6000 recently and it works fine so far. doesn't streak as bad as 14 in my opinion. (Brushing)

Kev Williams
12-18-2018, 3:03 PM
The likely reason they killed the formula is the same reason they changed 6000 a few years ago: some necessary ingredients suddenly aren't available. Why unavailable is anyone's guess. I know the old 6000 was very thick and a distinct gray/tan color, and it was nearly impossible to screw up. The 'replacement' for 6060 probably uses the same replacement ingredient used in the 6000. The new 6000 is much thinner and is beige/cream colored. I didn't like it so much at first but I've learned how to use it over time. One issue I have is that I tend to over-thin it, but that's easy to fix. Too thin is okay on flat work but for flasks I make it a bit thicker, to where a 1" swipe down the length tends to run slowly down the side if at all. My 'trick' to flasks is to have a fan blowing air as I brush: Brush a swipe down the length while the fan's blowing on it, wait 2 or 3 seconds for the fan to 'set' it, another swipe, wait, etc... it's easy to completely cover an entire flask this way with little or no runs at all, with smooth brush seams. If ever I get clumpy runs I think will come out weird, I just brush on a light coat over the engraving and run a second pass...





This is the kind of chrome Cermark didn't work on-
--as you can see, neither did a diamond tool ;) I've never tried Cermark on 'good' chrome...