Protecting front door

[joe webb]

I have a wooden front door. I am not sure what kind of wood that is, but my guess it is walnut or alder. The guy at Kelly Moor paint store suggested me to use a Marine Valspar to protect it from the weather. After 3-4 month, it turned yellow and we really disliked it. Then I sanded down the door and stained it again and got it close to the original look.

What can I use to protect it? I don't want its color to change significantly. It is covered by a porch and not exposed to direct sunlight for most of the day. Rain doesn't get directly on the door either. I live in northern California thus the weather isn't as harsh. Would Tung/Linseed/Teak oil work for this? I don't mind having to rub it on once a year.

To stain I mixed Danish Oil, Cabot Clear 19200, and color pigments. I used paint thinner and the same color pigment to make the shadow. May be, I can put a coat of Cabot Clear by itself?

Thanks much

[Steve Schoene]

If you want a "clear finish" you would need to apply a really good marine spar varnish. You will not find such at a paint store, regardless of the nautical sounding name. Good brands include Epifanes Clear, Interlux Schooner, or Pettit Captain's Follow directions, which will call for 5 or more coats. Another alternative is a two part finish. The one I know that includes directions for DIY application is Interlux Perfection. Real and follow ALL the directions.

A solid paint, in a light color will last much longer with less work.

[Bill McCarthy]

I don't have much experience with the finer points of finishing and I'm still learning, so take this for what its worth. I used to have a boat with a Teak swim platform. I used "Teak Oil" on it. It looked good for a little while, but eventually went back to a weathered wood color; it would not last the entire boating season in RI. I have since learned that "Teak Oil" is some variation of linseed oil. Linseed oil will impart a "yellow" color to the wood. Tung oil also imparts color, but if I remember correctly, not as much as linseed oil.

Any of the Spar finishes I'm familiar with are oil based. Which oil depends upon the manufacturer.

I'm now in the FL panhandle. I've made a screen door for my front door out of Cedar. Its on a covered porch, similar to what you describe. I used Waterlox on it, with the last coat being their gloss marine. I'm happy with it, but I also like the color imparted by the oil varnishes.

My understanding, is to get something absolutely clear, you need a waterbase. I'm not sure if there is such a thing in the Spar lines of products. (Spar varnishes are softer so they move with the wood and most of them contain UV inhibitors.)

[Doug Hepler]

I agree with most of what Steve Schoene wrote. Add McCloskey's Man-O-War spar vanish. I do not think you will need 5 coats in the location you describe. Multiple coats of these varnishes will impart a tan tone to what you already have.

I'd guess the yellowing might be explained if the valspar was polyurethane based. Polys do yellow with age. Maybe sunlight accelerated it. The best spar varnishes are made on an alkyd or phenolic base.

Doug

[joe webb]

Thanks all for your insight.

Steve, is this the product you described https://interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/topcoat-finish/perfection? It seems it's paint. Wouldn't it cover and hide all the grain?
Doug, McCloskey Man-O-War another Marine Spar Varnish 6509 was what I used and the door turned yellow. Are you referring to another product from McCloskey?
Bill, I tried Tung and Teak oil on a piece of pine, and Tung oil effect was less visible.

[John TenEyck]

Your door looks like alder to me.

All the exterior varnishes I've used turn yellow, sooner or later. Those w/o UV protectants in them turn yellow very quickly and then crack, flake, peel, etc. Good ones like Epifanes turn yellow more slowly, and the UV package lasts at least a couple of years where I live in NY before a maintenance coat is needed. The problem with all these exterior varnishes is the number of coats required, the time it takes each coat to dry, and how soft the finish is afterwards. I wouldn't use them for a front door.

Since you've already stained the door and Danish Oil was part of that mix, your options are limited in what you can put over it. Had you not already done that I would have recommended you look at PPG Prolux (Sikkens) Cetol Door and Window finish. You might still be able to use the Clear version w/o bond problems, but you would need to make a test board to be sure. I've had good luck using the recommended 3 coats (2 coats of pigmented product + one coat of clear), it can be applied with a brush, and it's easy to maintain.

The bullet proof option is a 2K Poly, but you'd have to use a solvent based one in order to bond to the Danish Oil and I think those are spray only. Those won't yellow and you wouldn't need to do any maintenance for a long time, likely, but when you do it will be a lot more work.

John

[Steve Schoene]

Not quite, I forgot the "plus". Try this material which is a clear, designed for marine brightwork.

https://interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/varnish/perfection-plus.

This is a 2-k polyurethane, but it is formulated to be applied by brush or brush and roller. It's the only one I know made for DIY application.

[liam c murphy]

I used Total Boat -“Gleam” Marine Varnish on a gate I built recently. I can’t vouch for it’s longevity yet. It is solvent based. 399213399214

[Doug Hepler]

Joe

I stand corrected. I have had excellent results with McCloskey on cypress (yellowish to start with) and redwood (yellowing would not be as noticeable. Sorry to give wrong advice. Maybe they changed the formula (I'm just trying to dodge the bullet.)

Doug