fitting for catching dust from a lathe

[Dean S Walker]

I am setting up a DC for the lathe to catch dust when sanding primarily. I will use it when cutting too but I am looking for some kind of a hood that I can fit a 4 inch hose to. I will make a stand for the hood but I want to be able to move the 4 inch hose from the hood and attach to the drill press when needed and also attach to a vacuum head to clean up with at the end of the day. So I need hood recommendations either purchase or home made. I can make from sheet metal or plastic. I also want to move this around so is there some kind of quick attach device that I can use instead of using a clamp on and off all of the time? I bought a 2 stage compact unit 1-1/2 horse for this it has two 4 inch ports. One I will hook to the bandsaw and the other will go from the lathe to the drill press as needed. If possible I will find some way to use it to as a vacuum or maybe to attach it to my track saw and other various hand held tools. I have never set up a dust collection system before so any information would be appreciated. I will put blast gates on but I am unsure as to where they should go, at the DC or at the machine.

Thank you

[Marvin Hasenak]

I use a flexible cell phone holder with a clip like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-360-Clip-Lazy-Bed-Desktop-Bracket-Mount-Stand-Holder-For-Cell-Phone-MT/352546133568?hash=item5215631640:m:mWvJr7egb9i5BWd N3uKSkaQ:rk:8:pf:0

To that I have duct taped part of a gallon milk jug. The hose from the DC is connected to a DC connection that I have duct taped to the milk jug. One clip and I can move it where I need it, and bend the flex arm to get the "milk jug collector" exactly where I want it. I also have one using part of a 2 liter soda pop bottle for when I turn small stuff.

[Chris A Lawrence]

I just use a floor register the biggest one i could find at the big box store with the cheap foil flex duct. I built an articulating arm out of some scrap wood and a big magnet to stick it to the lathe.

[Doug Hepler]

Dean,

I gave up on trying to collect shavings and chips from the lathe. They fall where they may and I sweep them up. I bought the largest plastic hood that Penn State Industries offered. It came with a clamp that fits in the ways on my lathe. It goes to the right of what I am sanding. Another, smaller, hood is on an articulated arm. It usually goes over the workpiece. I have a home-made plywood box under the workpiece that I connect to my shop vac. The shop vac and one of the hoods get the job done. I also have an air cleaner above the lathe. I think that answers your question but I will add a photo when I get a chance. Edit: here is the photo. You can see the 2.5" fitting for the shop vac hose on the plywood box at the bottom center. A lot of sanding dust is carried downwards and this simple box works pretty well

Doug398990

[Chris A Lawrence]

I never concerned myself with collecting the chips that fall right to the floor. A plastic snow shovel and broom makes quick work of that. I do want to get as much of the floaters in the air as possible for lung protection and to minimize the need for dusting all the horizontal surfaces that it can collect on.

[Alex Zeller]

I did like Chris. Went to Lowes and bought a register duct and the adapters to bring it down to 4". I was at the free section in the dump and someone left an oscillating fan. It's the kind with a stand, the fan stayed and the stand holds the duct. It may not be the best but I'm not sure what is. I've just come to accept that when sanding or turning dry wood on the lathe that I should wear a dust mask.

[John K Jordan]

I got this dust pickup nozzle together with a length of stay-put flex duct in one box from Woodcraft, like this but it might have been without the second smaller nozzlel:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-dust-source-rigid-flex-set

The red adjustable arm is from Amazon, just $20 (identical in operation to the Noga I paid $100 for):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5T2ZA8
It's doesn't have much range for moving around but it works for my situation. It would be easy to make one from sticks and wing nuts.

398951

I was amazed at how well this picks up sanding dust. I've watched dust come off a spindle and travel horizontally maybe 18" to get pulled into the nozzle. When turning, most of the larger chips fly elsewhere but smaller chips and even many of the fines and dust that come off the tool towards me will make a turn in the air and get sucked up. When turning in reverse, all sanding dust that comes off the top of a piece gets picked. With the 5hp ClearVue cyclone don't let you cat get close.

It doesn't matter if the blast gate is at the beginning or end of the hose. Near the tool is more convenient.

JKJ


I am setting up a DC for the lathe to catch dust when sanding primarily. I will use it when cutting too but I am looking for some kind of a hood that I can fit a 4 inch hose to. I will make a stand for the hood but I want to be able to move the 4 inch hose from the hood and attach to the drill press when needed and also attach to a vacuum head to clean up with at the end of the day. So I need hood recommendations either purchase or home made. I can make from sheet metal or plastic. I also want to move this around so is there some kind of quick attach device that I can use instead of using a clamp on and off all of the time? I bought a 2 stage compact unit 1-1/2 horse for this it has two 4 inch ports. One I will hook to the bandsaw and the other will go from the lathe to the drill press as needed. If possible I will find some way to use it to as a vacuum or maybe to attach it to my track saw and other various hand held tools. I have never set up a dust collection system before so any information would be appreciated. I will put blast gates on but I am unsure as to where they should go, at the DC or at the machine.

Thank you

[Barry McFadden]

I use this https://www.busybeetools.com/products/dust-hood-in-big-gulpin-12in-x-16in.html with some rare earth magnets glued to the bottom so I can quickly put it on and off the lathe bed. The 4" hose is pressed on so it can also be removed if needed for something else.

[Terry Vaughan]

I made a stand like an inverted L from scrap timber,. The leg of the L stands in a bucket of gravel on the floor behind the lathe. I added a bit of plywood to help anchor the leg. The horizontal arm has a bandsawn cradle to which the end of the hose is strapped with a bungee cord. I can easily move the bucket and swivel the arm as required. Depending on the space, the upright alone may be enough.

The hose is 7 inches in diameter, the same as the extractor port. The suction falls off rapidly with distance from the inlet (down to about 10% at one diameter away), so you need a wide opening with a large volume of air moving. The dust source must be within the effective collection zone where the speed of the suction is greater than the speed of the dusty air. A large hood with a small pipe will not have a very good air speed at the opening. If the inlet is small, you need to keep it adjusted close to the dust source.

A lot of the air entering the inlet will be coming from behind it. A disc around the inlet like a hat brim will reduce this.

I would route both the extractor inlets to the lathe. One four inch inlet is better than nothing, but not sufficient. A branch leading to other machines could be added.

The spinning lathe throws dusty air outwards. Running it slower will help collection.

[Randy Heinemann]

I use this from Craft Supplies USA - HC-Black-Hole-Dust-Catcher-System (https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/89/6387/HC-Black-Hole-Dust-Catcher-System?term=lathe+dust+collection&term=lathe%20dust%20collection). I guess it's pricey and I suppose you could make a similar setup yourself, but the thing is it really works well and was quick and easy to install. I think it would likely work on any lathe. It's very adjustable and connects to my 4" dust collector hose. Of course, nothing will collect shavings and chips, but it let the dust collector suck up all the fine dust created from sanding and some from turning, as well as the smaller shavings.

[Robert Hayward]

Here (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-dust-nozzle-12-x-16-with-floor-stand) is what I use.

[Brice Rogers]

I bought a "big gulp" dust fitting. I thought that it didn't work as well as I wanted, so I switched to a smaller version, perhaps a "mini" ? gulp. It seems to work well for sanding, especially if I use a work light and pay attention to the best position to hold the sand paper to ensure that 99% goes into the fitting.

I saw a video by Robo Hippy on Youtube for what was basically a small plastic barrel cut in half lengthwise. It seemed like it really worked well. If you do small things, perhaps a 5 gallon bucket would work. Or bigger if you do larger bowls.

When I reconfigure my dust collection (from lathe to bandsaw to radial arm saw, etc.) I just pull off the flex 4" pipe and reconnect it. When I switch from lathe (et al) to the floor sweep (best thing since sliced bread) then I use a pair of blast gates.

[Brice Rogers]

BTW, trying to use a dust collector to pick up more than just a fraction of the big chips is a waste of time. If the chips were already getting directed towards the pick up, then maybe they'll go in. But if they're headed in the opposite direction. their inertia won't be overcome by the dust collector. But you probably already knew that.

[Barry McFadden]

After posting here about the system I use and seeing posts about very similar systems costing almost $200 I thought I'd post a couple of pic's of mine in use that cost about $25 for the chute and hose...

398996 398997

[Dean S Walker]

thanks everyone. I realize the chips will go where they go , what I'm trying to avoid is all the fine dust mostly from sanding. 200 bucks is just a bit much for me. I will build a head to hold the port. I have stand that has a roller on it for the out feed of the bandsaw or to extend holding for the drill press. I will use it to anchor the port to. I have a oneway lathe and I turn from both sides of the head so I need to move it around depending on what I'm working on. I really need to be able to change the hose from port to port easily. some kind of fitting that I can attach the hose to with a clamp and push onto ports easily.

Barry, what size DC do you have?
John did I understand it correct. Does the black hose hold its form like a flex arm on a moffet work light?

[John K Jordan]

John did I understand it correct. Does the black hose hold its form like a flex arm on a moffet work light?

Yes, more or less, mostly more. It is pleated plastic instead of spiral with a spring wire inside. When you bend it some of the pleats come together on one side forming a radius. It's not as strong and freestanding as a Moffatt lamp but it doesn't take much to hold it in place.

Besides the one at the lathe, I also have one I position at the bandsaw. I fastened a strong magnet to the lip of that one so I can either park it out of the way on the side of the table or position it as needed on the top of the table to catch sawdust that would otherwise skid across the table during "skimming" cuts to clean up a turning blank.

That hose is visible in this picture in its parked position.
399006

Probably cheaper somewhere else but this has a good photo. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/dust-collection-hose-stay-put-4-od-x-36

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

Well, a straight hose does work, a big gulp type hood works better, and this is a lot better, but I didn't make it so I could turn with it in place:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZsVc7qVx7A

More than anything, the more enclosed the piece is, the better chance you have of catching all the dust at the source. In my new shop, with my Robust Liberty lathe (16 inch), it is up against the wall. I am going to make a full length hood that stays in place and is screwed to the wall, and will have partitions so I can open the hood wider or make it narrower for bowls. Plastic sheet stock is available in 4 tn 8 foot sheets, and maybe bigger... I did see one turner who used a big bowl that he had turned through the bottom and used that for his hood. Not sure what I am going to do with my big lathe as it is out off the wall several feet...

robo hippy

[Ted Calver]

Which ever port you choose, I found it helpful to attach a piece of 1/2" square plastic covered wire mesh to the front to prevent the inevitable sanding disc/paper/tool/glasses from being sucked into the DC. The mesh lets the dust and fine chips through but keeps the big stuff out.

[Barry McFadden]

Dean... I'm not sure what the volume rating of my collector is. I made it out of the main blower from a machine I used to work on before I retired. I bought the collection bag at Busy Bee and put it together. Works great for sanding ( I don't use it for chips since I can easily vacuum them up). Just wanted something to keep the air clean when I'm sanding... Don't know if these pics will help you or not...

399018 399017

[Brian Deakin]

This what I use in the Uk

https://www.axminster.co.uk/stayput-extraction-hose-ax22323

[Prashun Patel]

I installed a Super Dust Deputy under my 3/4" hp mobile dc. I was able to find fittings at HD. My lathe has brackets on the back that allowed me to hang a Big Gulp and slide it back and forth as necessary.
It's good for catching sanding dust - not catching chips. I vent mine outside (mounted a lexan sheet and port outside my egress window)

[Dick Mahany]

I only use a dust hood typically for sanding as I gave up trying to collect shavings as the picture below shows. I believe this collector hood came from Woodcraft many years ago. It is mounted to the lathe with a set of articulated arms and was enlarged to 6" port to match a newer cyclone. To make it effective, it really needs more enclosure as it was pretty marginal in the configuration as shown.

399023

399025

[John K Jordan]

I only use a dust hood typically for sanding as I gave up trying to collect shavings as the picture below shows.

I used to only use mine for sanding until one day I realized Pentz was right - even cutting with a sharp edge tool releases fine dust into the air. I had a bright light shining downwards and had temporarily put a dark background behind the work to get a photo. When I took a few cuts with a sharp spindle gouge I was surprised at how much fine dust was floating around in the light. Repeating with the DC running pulled a lot of the fines from behind and even in front of the piece. (This is with the 5hp cyclone and dry wood - might be different with wet wood and/or wimpy DC. I use it all the time now.

I like your swing arm. I'd like to make one similar, articulated differently since my lathes are close to the walls.

JKJ

[Dick Mahany]

I used to only use mine for sanding until one day I realized Pentz was right - even cutting with a sharp edge tool releases fine dust into the air. I had a bright light shining downwards and had temporarily put a dark background behind the work to get a photo. When I took a few cuts with a sharp spindle gouge I was surprised at how much fine dust was floating around in the light. Repeating with the DC running pulled a lot of the fines from behind and even in front of the piece. (This is with the 5hp cyclone and dry wood - might be different with wet wood and/or wimpy DC. I use it all the time now.

I like your swing arm. I'd like to make one similar, articulated differently since my lathes are close to the walls.

JKJ

After reading Pentz a number of years ago, I installed a 3HP Oneida cyclone and also purchased a Trend Air Shield which I use when ever I am turning. Due to downsizing, I no longer have the space for the cyclone and now use HEPA vacs and an overhead air filter along with my Trend. I mainly turn dry or semi-dry wood and definitely notice the fine dust in the air even with those huge piles of shavings on the floor.

[David M Peters]

I've had good luck with the clear plastic magnetic dust hood (https://www.pennstateind.com/store/DLHOODC2.html) mounted to a french cleat. My dust collector is the 2HP Jet cyclone unit and I also run it while turning in order to catch the fines with chip a bonus should it happen.

399030399031399032399033399034

[Dick Mahany]

I've had good luck with the clear plastic magnetic dust hood (https://www.pennstateind.com/store/DLHOODC2.html) mounted to a french cleat. My dust collector is the 2HP Jet cyclone unit and I also run it while turning in order to catch the fines with chip a bonus should it happen.


Slick idea !

[Wes Ramsey]

Which ever port you choose, I found it helpful to attach a piece of 1/2" square plastic covered wire mesh to the front to prevent the inevitable sanding disc/paper/tool/glasses from being sucked into the DC. The mesh lets the dust and fine chips through but keeps the big stuff out.

I've been working out a design of my own for a temp dust hood. Don't know yet if I will mount it on an articulating arm (preferred) or with magnets (could be simpler in design). In any case, a screen is something I hadn't considered, but now that I have officially pirated your idea it will save me much hassle digging valuable what-nots out of my chip collector from day one. Much appreciated!

[Peter Christensen]

You should remove the "Y" splitter form the DC when you want to extract from the lathe and put on a 6" pipe to the lathe and then the shortest amount of 6" flex you can get away with. Make a bell mouth hood for the end of the hose. It potentially can pull almost 3 times as much air as a 4" can. Put the "Y" back on for the 4" work.

https://youtu.be/xjtHCmR-N3M

https://youtu.be/usk3qWv-8Yc

You can make your own bell mouth hood by turning a form from a block of wood that a length of PVC will fit over that flairs to 1/2 the radius of the duct (the radius of a 6" duct is 3" and 1/2 of that is 1 1/2" radius for the bell mouth lip). Turn a second plug to fit in the end for the tailstock to push against. You put the PVC over the form and apply heat to the lip with a heat gun while turning the lathe slowly. When it is warm enough you advance the tailstock, pushing the warm end over the form until the PVC has stretched the right amount and remove the heat.

[Marvin Hasenak]

399054

This is the cell phone holder I use, it can be moved easily, but does not move on it's own. As stated above I have a gallon milk jug that I have duct taped as my collector. $4.2 plus tape and one fitting for connector.

[Glenn C Roberts]

Barry, I think that motor cam out of a 9000 product: low in[put volume, high hg lift, like a vacuum motor, but has more of a balance with a little more volume and a little less lift. I do use one of those blowers in a fume hood, and it does ok but not great. I will be using the blower from my August West chimney cleaning days. Not so much lift, but much higher volume.

[Barry McFadden]

Barry, I think that motor cam out of a 9000 product: low in[put volume, high hg lift, like a vacuum motor, but has more of a balance with a little more volume and a little less lift. I do use one of those blowers in a fume hood, and it does ok but not great. I will be using the blower from my August West chimney cleaning days. Not so much lift, but much higher volume.

LOL...... Glen... you are right!!!... it's from a 9400.......did you work for Xerox at one time??

[Glenn C Roberts]

Yep! Seems like everybody in Rochester worked for either Kodak or Xerox. Started at Xerox in 74 as a service rep, then went on my own in 85 - to present. I saved a couple of blowers for the same purpose, but found the HF blowers move a much higher volume, and are cheap enough. So the blower and separator will sit on the shelf for another project someday....

[Barry McFadden]

Yep! Seems like everybody in Rochester worked for either Kodak or Xerox. Started at Xerox in 74 as a service rep, then went on my own in 85 - to present. I saved a couple of blowers for the same purpose, but found the HF blowers move a much higher volume, and are cheap enough. So the blower and separator will sit on the shelf for another project someday....

Small World!!... I started as a service rep in 74 as well and stayed at it for 42 years... retired 5 years ago...

[Randy Heinemann]

I used to only use mine for sanding until one day I realized Pentz was right - even cutting with a sharp edge tool releases fine dust into the air. I had a bright light shining downwards and had temporarily put a dark background behind the work to get a photo. When I took a few cuts with a sharp spindle gouge I was surprised at how much fine dust was floating around in the light. Repeating with the DC running pulled a lot of the fines from behind and even in front of the piece. (This is with the 5hp cyclone and dry wood - might be different with wet wood and/or wimpy DC. I use it all the time now.

I like your swing arm. I'd like to make one similar, articulated differently since my lathes are close to the walls.

JKJ

You are absolutely correct. All woodworking produces fine dust, regardless of whether it is jointing, planing (with a power planer), or turning. From the moment I started turning about 2 years ago, I set up dust collection via my cyclone with a hood at the lathe. Very little dust escapes in to the shop air and, in fact, small shavings get sucked up many times also. I wouldn't be without the hood on my lathe, regardless of how much it cost

[Dean S Walker]

You should remove the "Y" splitter form the DC when you want to extract from the lathe and put on a 6" pipe to the lathe and then the shortest amount of 6" flex you can get away with. Make a bell mouth hood for the end of the hose. It potentially can pull almost 3 times as much air as a 4" can. Put the "Y" back on for the 4" work.

https://youtu.be/xjtHCmR-N3M

https://youtu.be/usk3qWv-8Yc

You can make your own bell mouth hood by turning a form from a block of wood that a length of PVC will fit over that flairs to 1/2 the radius of the duct (the radius of a 6" duct is 3" and 1/2 of that is 1 1/2" radius for the bell mouth lip). Turn a second plug to fit in the end for the tailstock to push against. You put the PVC over the form and apply heat to the lip with a heat gun while turning the lathe slowly. When it is warm enough you advance the tailstock, pushing the warm end over the form until the PVC has stretched the right amount and remove the heat.

Wow almost three times as much, I'm in! I can spin a metal bell mouth to keep it ling and just yous it on the drill press as well. then set up the splitter for the band saw. Or can you get a 4 inch Y to a 6 inch outlet?
Thanks

[Peter Christensen]

If you put a 6" on a 4" line the 4" becomes the limiting factor. It is the choke point. In an ideal world you would have a more powerful DC (3hp or more) and run a 6" to the bandsaw and split it into 3 pipes 4" in diameter. One to the cabinet around the lower wheel. a second bell mouth under the table by the guards and the third with a bell mouth above and behind the blade. In your case I would just put the one bell mouth to the underside of the table. Get a bigger impeller as soon as you can afford it.

With 3/4hp you won't get nearly triple the airflow because the DC just can't pull that much but it will pull more than a 4" which is always better.

[John K Jordan]

If you put a 6" on a 4" line the 4" becomes the limiting factor. It is the choke point. In an ideal world you would have a more powerful DC (3hp or more) and run a 6" to the bandsaw and split it into 3 pipes 4" in diameter. One to the cabinet around the lower wheel. a second bell mouth under the table by the guards and the third with a bell mouth above and behind the blade.

You've described my setup - 6" from a 5hp cyclone split to three 4" at the bandsaw. I get no sawdust inside the cabinet.

My bandsaw has two collection ports built into the lower cabinet, one just below the lower guides. To catch the dust that sprays onto the floor from the lower guides I built a little shroud from plexiglas, held around the guides with magnets. As described earlier, the flex tube is is positioned or parked as needed, held in place with a strong magnet.

399137 399138 399139

Absolutely worth the effort.

JKJ

[Larry Frank]

I recently built a portable style dust collection pickup for general use in the shop and used it yesterday to pickup dust from sanding on my lathe.

The base is a large brake drum. It uses a 4" DWV pipe on top which connects to my DC with flex hose. I can lengthen the pipe with a couple and short lengths of the DWV. On the end, I have a bell mouth hood. The hood seems to catch dust better than just the end of the pipe. I purchased the Bell Mouth Hood from Parts-Express which sells audio and electronics. It is made for speaker ports but works well for dust collections.

399147399148399149

[Dean S Walker]

Sweet gents, lts of great ideas. I bought the laguna 18bx earlier this year and I will try what is set up from the factory and go from there. The dust collector is a 1-1/2 grizzly G0860 new design due in at the end of December but we will see. I'l do a little review on it when it get it going. The DC has a 6 inch port with a removable Y for two four inch. What i am thinking is find a 6 inch with a 4 Y-ed in to run to the bandsaw more or ess fixed, put a blast gate to close it when not needed the run a 6 inch to the lathe with a bell mouth. Then move it to the drill press when doing some heavier drilling. It will be on a free standing stand something like larry so I can move it around as needed. Drill press and lathe in two positions.

Thanks for the help fellas

[Hayes Rutherford]

Dean, here is still another hood. It simply sticks in between the ways and hangs on the wall when not in use. I went 6" to a gate and wye and can use just the top inlet, just the hood, or both. I have a variety of pipes that friction fit into the top inlet.