Quick finish for small spindle turnings

[Dave Bunge]

I've been turning for about 9 years and have made hundreds of bowls. But so far, only about a dozen spindle turned items, and 11 of them were tool handles.

But I've been asked to make some snowmen. Picture below is my first one, inspired by some that Curt Fuller posted on other forums.

I'd like to hear suggestions for easy to use finishes. I'm thinking that the wipe on ones that I usually use (wipe on poly or Antique Oil) would be more trouble than necessary.

So what do folks use for items like this? Perhaps while they are still on the lathe?


Thanks,
Dave

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Off set/multi axis turning for the hat? Cool! Not that I would know what snow or snowmen look like:D, but I would guess white latex paint. Snowmen should not look like wood. Just my $0.02.

[Stan Calow]

CA glue? Thats what I used, if you want glossy.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If the hats are turned separately and the snowmen are not turned using an offset method. I would use a modified mandrel as a spur drive using a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the snowman. Then after turning, I would set them on a rotisserie type spinner and spray paint them with rattle can paint. Or just use a 3/8 dowel to hand spin while spraying.

[Ian Parish]

I just soak them in BLO Boiled Linseed oil and let them cure. Nice real wood finish and easy. I have a few new videos of making these on my youtube Channel TurningRound if you want to see how I make them.
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[John K Jordan]

I'd like to hear suggestions for easy to use finishes. I'm thinking that the wipe on ones that I usually use (wipe on poly or Antique Oil) would be more trouble than necessary.


Dave,
For quick finishes for spindles (on the lathe) I use:

Mylands Friction polish. Shellac-based, goes on easily, creates a high gloss in a few seconds - at that point it is dry and done. Takes just a little experimenting for the best way to use. I apply with a piece of cotton cloth about 1"x3", not big enough to be a safety hazard. After wiping on at lower speeds I run the lathe at 3000rpm to heat and polish. Don't use it for bottle stoppers or things that may be around alcohol. I use it often for finger tops, magic wands, ornaments, etc.

Spray lacquer, Deft, can. Very quick to apply. Available in gloss, etc. I spray while the piece rotating slowly. Easy to use off the lathe too. I usually use two coats with a little steel wool between.

Spray acrylic, Krylon, rattle can. A lot of people use this. I like the matte finish. I assume they sell a gloss version but the matte can be buffed. Spray while rotating. Dries fairly quickly, faster if I direct compressed air toward it.

Lacquer sanding sealer, brushed on. Slower to dry but still pretty fast, makes a nice finish.

I know a lot of people use white spray paint on snowman ornaments. Yours (very nice, BTW!) would look good with a black or colored hat and some details added with a paintbrush or marker. John Lucas is an expert at this - maybe he will reply here or you might ask him.

BTW, as for adding color with brushes, I haven't tried them over white paint but on bare wood my new favorite "markers" are actually Arteza brush markers, water based, some fantastic colors. I've bought several when on sale, for myself and for some art student friends. https://www.amazon.com/Watercolor-Painting-Flexible-Coloring-Calligraphy/dp/B01N9IY5QF

JKJ

[Paul Williams]

Almost anything I have laying around for clear or stained wood. For opaque snowmen I use acrylic craft paint.

[Dave Bunge]

Thanks everyone for the responses and suggestions.

I am looking for a clear finish that lets the grain show. For the one in the picture, I will probably use spray lacquer since it's already off of the lathe. I would like to finish the next one on the lathe. I had tried Myland's Friction polish (from my 8 year old bottle) on the stub left from the 1st snowlady. I had uneven coverage. I'll try again with your tips, John. I'm reluctant to use CA since the fumes cause me trouble and since it's a fairly large project, about 9" tall. Any other suggestions for on the lathe finishing?

Just a little more about the project: The hat is turned separately and placed on top of the snow lady at an angle. I'll attach it with hot melt adhesive after finish is applied. I am planning to add eyes (burned or archival ink) and an orange carrot nose. Maybe add a hat band or make the hat from walnut for the next one.

Dave

[Derek Cohen]

Shellawax.

Australian product. Sold at Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=54188&cat=1,190,42942

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

I make dozens of tree ornaments, much smaller than 9 inches. I have tried several different finishes on the lathe and like the shine juice used by Capt Eddy, 1 part BLO, 1 part unwaxed shellac (Sold under the name Zinsers Sanding Sealer) and 1 part DNA. I keep it in repurposed tall skinny soy sauce bottles/hot sauce bottles so it is easy to dispense and there is no evaporation through plastic problem. I mixed up too much at first and filled three bottles. I am half way what I mixed two years ago. It does separate and it is necessary to shake it up good. After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction. I can sometimes get even coverage without the first coat, but it depends more on the wood used and how much it soaks up the finish. I also sometimes use wipe on poly. And I have tried a brush on lacquer I found on sale for $1 a qt on clearance at Lowes, but it raises the grain more. It does dry almost before I am done applying it.
With the shine juice, I do not have to wait or give it dry time before removing it from the lathe and the grain does not lift up.
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[Art Moore]

Wood Turners Finish, from General Finishes, is one of the go-to finishes that the pen guys use. Easy to use and dries in minutes.

[John K Jordan]

I forgot to mention another quick finish - no finish! Some fine-grained woods, in particular holly, hard maple, persimmon, ebony, boxwood, can be buffed directly then waxed to keep clean. Some will end up with a mirror gloss (and will certainly let the grain and figure show!) Obviously not as good for something that gets handled a lot, but might be worth trying a test on the wood you are using for the snowmen.

For wax I usually use carnauba wax with the Beale buffing wheel followed by hand application of Renaissance Wax. (The Renaissaance wax alone can also be used as a subtle finish.)

JKJ

[Peter Blair]

I like to use Pre Catalized Lacquer in a spray can. Quick and easy after all the details of my snow people are done except for any additional fabric. I sell mine quite inexpensively and each year sell everything I make.

[carl mesaros]

I make dozens of tree ornaments, much smaller than 9 inches. I have tried several different finishes on the lathe and like the shine juice used by Capt Eddy, 1 part BLO, 1 part unwaxed shellac (Sold under the name Zinsers Sanding Sealer) and 1 part DNA. I keep it in repurposed tall skinny soy sauce bottles/hot sauce bottles so it is easy to dispense and there is no evaporation through plastic problem. I mixed up too much at first and filled three bottles. I am half way what I mixed two years ago. It does separate and it is necessary to shake it up good. After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction. I can sometimes get even coverage without the first coat, but it depends more on the wood used and how much it soaks up the finish. I also sometimes use wipe on poly. And I have tried a brush on lacquer I found on sale for $1 a qt on clearance at Lowes, but it raises the grain more. It does dry almost before I am done applying it.
With the shine juice, I do not have to wait or give it dry time before removing it from the lathe and the grain does not lift up.
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I have to agree with Perry. Shine juice is just the perfect shine, not to glossy, but not dull either. I find it lasts much longer than Mylands or other friction polishes I have used. I've made lots of "snowmen" family's thanks also to Curt Fullers inspiration. I personally wouldn't paint them as it takes away from the hand turned look.
Shine juice is also great for smaller bowls > than 8" or so. Takes a little more time but the end result is worth it. My 2 cents only.

[Dave Bunge]

Thanks everyone for the additional replies. Lots more good ideas for me to try.


...After sanding and with the piece still, I use a cheap kiddie water color brush to paint the hard to reach corners and then wipe the stuff over the entire piece, then I turn the lathe on and apply the stuff again using pressure to cause the friction...

I tried the Mylands again on another piece, precoating it like you suggested. I got much better results, a nice smooth shiny surface. I'm using ash which soaks up up quite a bit of finish.

I think I'll use Mylands for my first round of snowmen. I'm on a bit of time crunch, trying to finish up a spindle turned project to bring to my woodworking club annual Christmas party/show and tell on Tuesday. I'm notorious for always bringing bowls, was prodded into promising to bring something else this year.

Dave

[mike ash]

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I am a fan of Minwax Polywipe. I good coat, wipe off excess and after a few hours i buff and wax with the Beale system. I've done a probably 100 angels with this method and after 10 years they all look like just finished.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I like to keep the wood color as is, so I polish them with Carnauba wax, enough shine and no color changes plus it’s quickly done.

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[Stan Smith]

The finish I use depends on the wood. I've tried a few over the years and I keep coming back to my 2 basics. One is wipe-on poly and the other is a mix that I found in a review of finishes on PSI. The guy who wrote it liked his own finish (for pens) better than the one he tried. He liked it because it was a nice finish and lasted a long time due to durability. It's simply a 50-50 mix of Deft (I use gloss) and lacquer thinner.

I just use a little 2 oz glass bottle of 1 oz each. I apply it with a 1/4 square of a blue shop towel and buff with an old handkerchief which is lint free. I do it all on the lathe and do at least 6 coats. I apply the 1st coat with the lathe off, turn the lathe on, and let it run at around 2800 rpm for 2 mins. I buff for 1:45 min. The 2nd coat is applied with the lathe running using the same towel with the finish already on it from the 1st coat. This is done with just a light swipe. Then, let the lathe keep running for 1:45 min to dry the coat and then buff again for 1:45 min. Repeat this for at least 6 coats or more if you want. This method can be used for turnings other than pens. I just had to use it for a cocobolo bottle stopper because the wipe-on poly I first tried stayed sticky. Lesson learned is not to use wipe-on poly on oily woods Please note that this is not my original idea. I really like it because there is no mess to clean up. I do wear a cheapo pair of nitrile gloves from harbor freight though. Compared to wipe-on poly, the smell of Deft is pretty intense.

I apply the wipe-on poly off of the lathe. I use the blue shop towel for applying 4 coats letting each coat dry over night. If there are any nibs, you can lightly sand with 600 grit. I'm thankful that I learned about these 2 methods of finishing. They are easy to apply and the results are adequate for the amateur work that I don YMMV

[John K Jordan]

...I just had to use it for a cocobolo bottle stopper because the wipe-on poly I first tried stayed sticky. Lesson learned is not to use wipe-on poly on oily woods ....

One thing I discovered to avoid using on Cocobolo - Watco "Danish" oil. I don't know exactly what ingredient caused the problem, but the beautiful colors in a piece turned black very quickly. After just a few months it looked almost as black as ebony.

JKJ

[Stan Smith]

One thing I discovered to avoid using on Cocobolo - Watco "Danish" oil. I don't know exactly what ingredient caused the problem, but the beautiful colors in a piece turned black very quickly. After just a few months it looked almost as black as ebony.

JKJ

Hi John. I guess there are a lot of things that affect the color(s) of wood. I was not happy when some osage orange and also purple heart turned brown.

[tom lucas]

what about bleach to turn them white?

[John K Jordan]

Hi John. I guess there are a lot of things that affect the color(s) of wood. I was not happy when some osage orange and also purple heart turned brown.

Osage and purpleheart will always turn brown. Purpleheart is usually brown when cut then turns purple, some say, with exposure to oxygen and light, then slowly turns brown again. You can often delay color change with a good sealing finish and keeping the piece out of strong light.

But there are different types of purpleheart. I got some boards some years ago that are a strong purple color as soon as they are cut and stay that way far longer than most. You can bet I keep the remaining stock guarded! I read that some purpleheart from Mexico is like that.

BTW, the late Jim King, wood dealer from Iquitos Peru, said people in his area can't believe the demand for purpleheart n the States. They use it for floor joists and such!

An excellent article about wood color is on the Wood Database web site: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/

JKJ

[Stan Smith]

Osage and purpleheart will always turn brown. Purpleheart is usually brown when cut then turns purple, some say, with exposure to oxygen and light, then slowly turns brown again. You can often delay color change with a good sealing finish and keeping the piece out of strong light.

But there are different types of purpleheart. I got some boards some years ago that are a strong purple color as soon as they are cut and stay that way far longer than most. You can bet I keep the remaining stock guarded! I read that some purpleheart from Mexico is like that.

BTW, the late Jim King, wood dealer from Iquitos Peru, said people in his area can't believe the demand for purpleheart n the States. They use it for floor joists and such!

An excellent article about wood color is on the Wood Database web site: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/preventing-color-changes-in-exotic-woods/

JKJ

Thanks so much, John. The url you provided is quite comprehensive on properties of the woods they discuss. It really does explain, quite well, how the woods change and what finishes to use. Some woods that I used recently, I have had for a few years. They also were exposed to some extreme heat from a wildfire. Most all were covered with wax. I am lucky that I can still use it.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I've been making small snowman ornaments for practice with the skew and detail gouge - here's what I've made so far in the last couple weeks. I personally like the natural/unpainted look, though others that have painted look great too.

The more shiny ones I just used a single coat of lacquer/lacquer thinner mix on the lathe, the less shiny have no finish. Most are from a bradford pear tree that came down in our yard last year, a couple are cedar, and the two lightest are unknown (a branch that came down at my church from a flowering tree....maybe magnolia???).

I'm still learning and far from competent, yet really enjoying the process!!!


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[Perry Hilbert Jr]

Decades ago, I had access to teak cut offs from a furniture factory. Teak is sort of a honey color, turns easy and is very oily. You need to use a sharp scraper for the finish cut, because sand paper just builds friction, the heat brings the oil to the surface and it just gums up the sand paper. However, once you get a nice finish cut, just hold a rag to the wood and create friction. The friction creates heat, the heat brings the oil up to the surface and the friction causes the oil to dry to the surface.

[Stan Smith]

Those are really nice, Thomas. I've made a few from the Craft Supplies kits, but I like yours better.

[Stan Smith]

Hi Perry thanks for the tip. I don't have any teak, but I'm going to try your suggestion on other oily woods.

[John K Jordan]

Hi Perry thanks for the tip. I don't have any teak, but I'm going to try your suggestion on other oily woods.

I think I mentioned in an earlier message that some species don't need any finish, some oily, some just hard, fine grained. Ebony, cocobolo, and lignum vitae can be buffed to a shine. I usually hand rub with renaissance wax afterwards.

JKJ

[Randy Heinemann]

Just recently I used a product called Aussie Oil sold by Penn State Industries (maybe others also). I haven't turned a lot of pens but on the few I have used it on, it really brings out the grain in whatever wood you use it on. So far I've used it on rosewood, wedge, and walnut. It is meant to apply while the work is on the lathe and polish while turning on the lathe. The finish is shiny but I would suppose it could be dulled a little with light sanding with very fine sandpaper, steel wool or the artificial pads. Don't know about that though. Just know it really brings out the grain.

[Dean Thomas]

Good info in this thread, but at least two aspects are kind of lacking attention for me.

Most of the friction polishes are shellac-based. Even so-called blonde shellac will immediately color the wood. It's a pleasant color, but it's not water clear like many lacquers. Even the whitest maple or holly will gain a honey color. Again, it's pretty, but if you want white snowmen, shellac might not be the way to go.

I had a conversation with the folks at Deft about guarding those special woods from UV rays that are a prime cause of browning for Osage Orange and purpleheart and the like. They have a few lacquers that are designated for outdoor use that contain UV inhibitors. Those lacquers will delay the oxidation of the wood and the effects of UV rays, but are not a full prevention.

The other factor in my choice of finish has to do with how much handling the items will undergo. A pen for daily use is going to get a lot more handling than the Christmas tree ornament that is handled going onto and coming off from the tree. A CA finish for pens is very hard and wears well, but it can crack if struck on a metal edge, say a desk edge. You can guess how I know this, right? CA cures in days. Some lacquers take up to 30 days to cure. I'm not sure about polyurethanes or urethanes. There is a dry time and a cure time for all finishes. It's worth looking into so you have some ideas about the finishes.

My two cents worth...

[Randy Heinemann]

I've used the Aussie Oil on the pens I turned recently (a new direction for a short time). It works well but, I suppose, does add a slightly yellowish cast to the pens just like poly would I imagine (maybe less than poly). It does a great job of bringing out the grain in all the woods I've tried, but it does end up with a shiny finish which I suppose could be made less shiny with some sort of extremely fine abrasive.