Cermark on A2 Tool Steel heat treated to 58-60 RC

[Justen Harness]

Hi all,

Which Cermark would mark best on this steel, LMM6000 or LMM14? Need to put 6 digits on an area .6385 wide, so it will be very small point.

[Trey Tull]

Once you go to LMM14, you won't go back to 6000. The 14 tip doesn't clog and you can get all of it out of the can. The mark color is the same on both.

[Kev Williams]

Once you go to LMM14, you won't go back to 6000.
lol, I would, and did... but then, I don't spray the stuff, I foam brush it, and the 14 I bought melts my foam brushes, so.... ;)
That all said, either one will give you pretty much the same results...

[Justen Harness]

Thanks guys! I only have a spray can of 6000 right now, but the parts are pretty small, I will waste more than what will be on the part. So, I want to order some paste, just didn't want to get the wrong one, stuff ain't cheap ya know! lol

[John Lifer]

I started with Lmm14 and it does work fine. Brushing is what I do and it melts the foam brushes. So I used a small acid brush. But I bought some 6000 and once you get past the dropping out of solution. (way worst than the 14,) it works way better.
Smoother surface once engraved, Lmmm14 has a rough texture. I've got a big bottle of both, don't know when I'll use the 14 up.....

[Kev Williams]

Before I actually bought the 'mud' version of Cermark, I would drill out the hole in the spray nozzle on the cans and spray it into a small jar with a good lid. I found I could add nearly the same amount of DNA to thin it and air brush it, cutting my cost in half (minus the DNA) ;) -- eventually I moved exclusively to brushing, after finding that I was using half as much to brush the same amount of surface as I used to spray it. And brushing gives you total control...

And btw, don't throw out empty cans, they're not empty! It's amazing how much hardens in the bottom of the can that the stir marbles never touch...