Veneer softener on shop sawn veneers

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm using veneer softener on .100" shop sawn veneers. I sawed up some Iroko recently that just would not behave itself.

I've clamped it flat, just wondering the length of time one should wait until removing it from clamps, to check it. Also, How many soaks does a shop sawn veneer require?

I also understand that one should keep weight on it after the fact so that it does not retake it's curly shape, prior to using. I'm going to do this since I don't know when the job will near install.

[David Zaret]

i like to keep my shop-sawn veneers to .050 or less. i've just seen too many issues as i've gone thicker - cracking, curling, etc. at .050, i see no issues, the material acts like veneer, not solid wood... and is still plenty thick to manage. not sure about veneer softeners with a piece that thick. are you veneering both sides? maybe let the vacuum bag/press suck it flat, and the balance will keep it that way.

good luck, report back with your findings.

--- dz

[Brian Holcombe]

Dave, I usually take them thinner after gluing. I can put glued panels through the planer and knock them down. Given how awful these have been I may have them sanded prior.

[Andrew Gibson]

I discovered last year that I am allergic to Iroko. Just now I got Itchy just reading the word.

[Simon MacGowen]

Super soft2 is what I have used before:
https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/flattening.htm

I use a flattening process like this, except with a vac press for clamping (from 1:30):

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2015/05/27/introduction-to-wood-veneering

Critical: wait until the veneer is really dry.

Simon

[Brian Holcombe]

Not a big fan of Iroko, it may have just been the particular board but I normally expect quarter sawn veneer to simply bow, if anything, which is not really a problem. I cut a different batch of iron to 3/8" thickness for a wrap and that behaved fine, so it may just be the board I used for veneering.

Thank you, Simon. I clamped it up after about 10-15 minutes and it already seems fairly dry after a few hours so maybe I did not use enough solution. It did flatten, so that was encouraging. Also, I'm using the stuff from veneer supplies.

[Simon MacGowen]

In my last job, I changed the newsprint every day and re-clamped.

Yes, you may check next time if enough solution is sprayed. If the paper comes out wet, change it again until it comes out dry. It may be a couple days to a few days process.

Simon

[Brian Holcombe]

I took it apart and soaked it down a lot this time, it flattened under the cauls a lot easier, so I assume the first time around was not nearly enough solution.

Appreciate the insights, cheers!

[David Zaret]

brian that makes sense, and is reasonable! good luck with your project.



Dave, I usually take them thinner after gluing. I can put glued panels through the planer and knock them down. Given how awful these have been I may have them sanded prior.

[Richard Coers]

I only used veneer softener on really buckled up burl veneer. No need to try and take out a little twist or cup, vacuum bag does that

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Dave!

Richard, I agree but these are definetly on the far side of what I'd consider gluing. This is for a countertop which will be 54" wide and 60" long, so I want to stack all the chips in my favor before I go to glue. Given the construction approach I have to have a fully formed substrate prior, so it's going to be a tricky job.

[Phil Mueller]

Brian, can’t offer experience with shop sawn veneer, but I use the same softener for commercial veneer. As others have said, wet it, press it, change the paper (I use the packaging paper from UHaul) after 24 hours, then keep it pressed for a few days. Check it. If it feels cold, it isn’t “done” yet. Doesn’t hurt to keep it pressed until ready to use. I’ve left it for a week with no I’ll effects. I did the same once with 1/16” twisted veneer and got the same good results...just needed to soak it more with the softener and change the paper a couple of times.

I will note, that if you don’t change the paper now and then, it can stick to the veneer.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Phil!

[Brian Holcombe]

I changed the papers just now, it is considerably flatter than it was.

[Brian Holcombe]

Hasn’t been much if a success, the veneers curled back up even with weight in them. I decided not to bother with further treatments and simply cut new veneer. New veneervut beautifully and planed beautifully so I am assuming there was just a great amount of tension in the board.

[Phil Mueller]

Sorry to hear it didn’t work out. But glad to hear the new veneer is acting nice. Was it all from the same board? I think it’s satisfying and humbling to know we can’t always beat nature.

[Brian Holcombe]

Same species but different board, I bought two matching boards and one that did not. The odd one sawed up and curled. One I sawed into thin boards, and it behaved so the matching board sawed up nicely.

A shame to basically throw away a good board.