Epoxy vs Carbide

[mike mcilroy]

I just did my first project with epoxy filled knots... unfortunately some portion of the knots went missing after going through the planer. My question is would my carbide inserts in the planer be damaged if I filled the knots with epoxy first?

[Dave Cav]

Not at all, done it lots of times.

[mike mcilroy]

Thanks. Just got the planer and wantrd to err on the side of caution/fear

[Kevin Beitz]

I mix up colored two part epoxy for missing not holes.
I also use a mix of glue and sawdust.
This week I seen professorial floor repair workers using cork for repairs.

[eugene thomas]

Epoxy Might help cause lose knots and my Byrd head not like each other.

[Ron Citerone]

I am a newbie at the epoxy as a knot/defect filler. What seems to work for me is plane first. Then I filled with epoxy. After it cured one or two days, I carefully scraped it with a flat scraper ever so proud of the surface and then sanded the piece as usual. Seems to have worked for me. I put 3 coats of waterlox over it and it looks pretty good. Interested to see what epoxy guys who ave used it more have to say.

Cheers

[John Blazy]

Epoxy Might help cause lose knots and my Byrd head not like each other.

How in the world can epoxy cause loose knots? Completely counter intelligent. The dream of epoxy (as opposed to titebond) is that it actually soaks into wood fibers, micro splits and crevices, solidifying the entire section - perfect for knots.

[Dave Cav]

Not at all, done it lots of times.

To elaborate (previous post was from my phone), for example, last year I made a run of 18 interior alder frame and panel doors. The 8/4 stock for the rails and stiles was pretty clear but in a number of cases I had to fill knots, some relatively large. I used regular slow set epoxy (12 to 18 hours for a full cure) that I dyed with transtint and sometimes added sawdust. My normal procedure was to rip and rough plane to approximate size, then fill the knots, then finish plane, rip and mill, then assemble the doors, then send them through the widebelt. No problems at all. I have a Powermatic PM180 with a Byrd head.

[John Blazy]

How in the world can epoxy cause loose knots? Completely counter intelligent. The dream of epoxy (as opposed to titebond) is that it actually soaks into wood fibers, micro splits and crevices, solidifying the entire section - perfect for knots.

I completely retract my comment, now that I understand your grammar. I think Eugene meant "epoxy might help because loose knots and his Byrd head doesn't like each other. See how important grammar is?

[mike mcilroy]

Just to be clear I had complete knots and the planer destroyed them because they were unstable

[eugene thomas]

Well since someone misunder stood my last post. I have turned lot of Byrd knives into tiny pieces from knots so MENT if epoxy the knot before feeding to planer it would not be as likely to turn the Byrd cutters into flying srapnel.

[Jim Andrew]

If I have a loose knot, just knock it out, then later after the board is planed I fill it with bondo. To color, just take a magic marker and color it before finishing. Tried dieing, did not work. Can you color epoxy?

[mike mcilroy]

I used black acrylic paint(post planing) to colour my epoxy with no problems.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

If I have a loose knot, just knock it out, then later after the board is planed I fill it with bondo. To color, just take a magic marker and color it before finishing. Tried dieing, did not work. Can you color epoxy?

Yes- you can buy dyes made for coloring epoxy, but you can mix graphite powder, a TINY dab of acrylic paint (test first- works with west system and by tiny I mean a drop or two), or photocopier toner. I've done all of the above many times to make black epoxy for gluing in black surfboard leash cups and fin boxes. I have used colored toner from laser jet printers to color the hot coat on surfboards.

Magic marker-even permanent kind- will bleed when wet out with epoxy and many clear coats.

[John Blazy]

I used black acrylic paint(post planing) to colour my epoxy with no problems.


Yes- you can buy dyes made for coloring epoxy, but you can mix graphite powder, a TINY dab of acrylic paint (test first- works with west system and by tiny I mean a drop or two), or photocopier toner. I've done all of the above many times to make black epoxy for gluing in black surfboard leash cups and fin boxes. I have used colored toner from laser jet printers to color the hot coat on surfboards.

Magic marker-even permanent kind- will bleed when wet out with epoxy and many clear coats.

I recently ordered cement coloring pigment powder off amazon for cheap. I wanted just pure pigment, no binder that might inhibit epoxy cure, and sure enough it works awesome. Needs to be dispersed well, so I take some resin and grind it with a spatula on scrap glass to really mix it in a concentration, then add that to rest of batch of epoxy and continue mixing. I've done black, white, and yellow iron oxide - all works great, doesn't affect cure. I have used graphite alot, but it is gray, and I need deep black, so went with the raw pigment.

[Mark Gibney]

I use a bit of Transtint to color epoxy dark. Seems to me it takes a little longer for the epoxy to fully cure.

I use Sculpt Wood with a black powder from Abatron that works great when you can press it into cracks.
Right now with the cooler weather it takes a few days to get to full hardness.

[Joe Spear]

How in the world can epoxy cause loose knots? Completely counter intelligent. The dream of epoxy (as opposed to titebond) is that it actually soaks into wood fibers, micro splits and crevices, solidifying the entire section - perfect for knots.
I think he meant to write, "Epoxy might help because my Byrd head doesn't like loose knots," not that epoxy causes loose knots.