Working with formica

[Brian Behrens]

I'm building a new router table and bought a sheet of Formica for the top. I will be laminating two layers of 3/4 mdf for the top, and covering this with Formica. I've never used Formica, so I would appreciate some help on a few questions:

1. Am I better off making the top and installing the Formica on it, then cut to exact size on the tablesaw, or cut mdf to exact size then add Formica. I will be installing a hardwood edge all the way around .

2. Will a regular bearing guided straight router bit give me a clean cut on the formica, or do I need a specialty bit? I am planning to cut the opening for the router lift after the top is done .

Thank you for any advice!

[Jim Morgan]

You could go either way. If you apply the laminate first and then trim to size, a blade with a triple chip grind will yield the best edge. If you do not already have such a blade, you may prefer to cut to size first, apply the laminate, then trim the laminate - you can use the same router bit for trimming around the edge of the table and trimming around the router lift opening. A solid carbide downcut spiral trim bit will yield the cleanest edges, but they can get a bit pricey and a straight carbide trim bit will work OK. If you use contact cement, keep an eye out for your bit & its bearing getting gunked up and clean as necessary.

[Paul Girouard]

I'm building a new router table and bought a sheet of Formica for the top. I will be laminating two layers of 3/4 mdf for the top, and covering this with Formica. I've never used Formica, so I would appreciate some help on a few questions:

1. Am I better off making the top and installing the Formica on it, then cut to exact size on the tablesaw, or cut mdf to exact size then add Formica. I will be installing a hardwood edge all the way around .

2. Will a regular bearing guided straight router bit give me a clean cut on the formica, or do I need a specialty bit? I am planning to cut the opening for the router lift after the top is done .

Thank you for any advice!





Let’s start with the name , Formica , is a brand of Plastic Laminate, there are other brands , Wilson Art , Pinoite , Nevermar , etc.

#1: Do you want to see the hardwood edges on the top side of the top?

Seeing you are doubling up the 3/4” stock , I’d recommend cutting the piece you are calling the top side , to your final size, of course less the thickness of your hardwood self edge.

I’d cut the “bottom” piece 1/2” over sized , then I’d pre-drill the holes where I planned of using screws to attach the two sheets together.

Then apply white glue to the down side of the top piece, lay the over sized piece on spreading the glue by rotating the second piece to spread the ridges of glue around.
Once you are happy with glue spread drive the 1 1/4” screws that clamp the two pieces together.


Then flip the top over and use a 1/2” shank flush trimmer bit to rout off the 1/4” ish of MDF that’s sticking past the smaller piece.


A) IF the S/E is going to show to the top, nows the time to spread your contact bond onto both surfaces , let it tack up , then stick the P.Lam which you’ve cut a inch wider and longer than the top.


B) If you want to cover the top edges of the S/E with the P. Lam you’d NOW install the S/E, in what ever fashion you wish , glues and nailed on OR glued and clamped no fasteners . Maybe use biscuits , but really the glue will hold the wood S/E to the MDF. The wood S/E should be milled a fuzz over final thickness , after you attach it use a belt sander to flush up the S/E to the top surface , well and the bottom should be sanded flush as well.

After the S/E is installed and flushed up , you’d be back to spreading contact bond and sticking the P. Lam.

Which you’d then flush trim off.



#2: Yes a straight cutting bearing bit will cut the P. Lam fine. There are reasons to use other types of P. Lam bits , but for what you are doing the bearing bit will work fine.

[Paul F Franklin]

If you apply the laminate first, you won't have a reference edge to run along the rip fence on the table saw as the laminate will hang over the edge and it is unlikely to be perfectly aligned with the edge of the mdf. So I would recommend cutting the mdf to size first and then applying the laminate and trimming it flush. Usually laminate is trimmed at a slight bevel using a laminate trim bit, but since you will be applying solid wood edging you can trim at 90 degrees. A standard carbide flush trim bit will work fine for that, especially since you don't have that much to do.

[Paul Girouard]

Old metal blinds work great to use to lay large sheets , once you get the P.Lam where you want it , I generally stick the center and then pull blinds and work toward the end.

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I made this 1/4” plywood jig what it’s purpose is , is to keep the lam from going under the rip fence. Guys with Uni-fences can lay their fence sideways to the lam can be on top of the narrow fence edge , IIRC , that is the one thing a Uni-fence is / was good for.

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[Tom Dixon]

I'm building a new router table and bought a sheet of Formica for the top. I will be laminating two layers of 3/4 mdf for the top, and covering this with Formica. I've never used Formica, so I would appreciate some help on a few questions:

1. Am I better off making the top and installing the Formica on it, then cut to exact size on the tablesaw, or cut mdf to exact size then add Formica. I will be installing a hardwood edge all the way around .

2. Will a regular bearing guided straight router bit give me a clean cut on the formica, or do I need a specialty bit? I am planning to cut the opening for the router lift after the top is done .

Thank you for any advice!

Cut your top to the finished size and if desired radius the corners. If you plan to use hardwood on the edge put it on before radiusing and adhering the laminate, but I recommend using a slot mounted Bumper T moulding which you apply after the top is adhered. I order mine from Outwater plastics. http://www2.archpro.com/cgi-bin/worderc?confc=B2C&s=105-1916-260*&catalog=150161&target=top They also sell the correct slot router bit for this moulding I use the 1 9/16 width for laminate covered double ply MDF. I bought a roll and have made many shop work surfaces with this, (router table, drill press table, etc.).

Cut the laminate to be 2 inches larger in both top dimensions for a 1 inch overhang.

Use Contact cement and follow the directions on the brand container for recommended dry time, applying to both the top and the laminate. (I find 3M spray adhesive 99 is great for small jobs.)

Uses several dowels to position the laminate over the top. Remove one dowel at a time starting in the center as you press the laminate to the top. This makes sure you will not get bubbles and the edge overhangs all the way around.

Use a laminate roller to apply even pressure to insure a good bond, (20 to 40 bucks or so at a big box store). https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bon-Tool-3-in-J-Roller-for-Laminates-Aluminum-Handle-14-526/305903882?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202533153-_-305903882-_-N

A bearing guided straight router bit will definitely give you a clean cut on the laminate but will leave a sharp edge. Use a file to smooth out the edge and put an ever so slight bevel on the laminate edge.

Search for some youtube videos on applying laminate tops.

[Andrew Seemann]

Not related directly to your questions, but important in applying laminate (Formica), especially if it is your first time. It isn't particularly difficult to work with, but it has kind of a steep learning curve. So:


Spread the contact cement on the laminate and substrate (your MDF) with a grooved spreader (or whatever the manufacture recommends if different). This is important to get an even coating and prevent pooling, lumps, and voids. Most contact cement had gross chemicals in it, so do it in a well vented area.
Allow the contact cement to dry as per the directions, usually at least until tacky. Again well ventilated.
Place a number of sticks of wood at least 3/4 in thick on top of the substrate, so that when you put the laminate on top of the substrate it cannot touch. Align it carefully. You can't remove or reposition it once you get good contact between the laminate and substrate.
Remove sticks from the center first, until you can get the center to touch, say about a foot's worth. Making sure the laminate is aligned, push it down in the center and start smoothing from the center outward. Remove more sticks and continue smoothing until you have all the sticks out and the laminate is all smoothed onto the substrate.
At this point, you normally take a J-roller and roll it across the top working from the center out to fully bond the laminate and substrate. For a router table you might get away with using the palm of your hand, but J-rollers aren't that expensive either.


I'm sure there are lots of videos on youtube on how to do this, watching a few is probably a good idea.

I have just used a straight bearing bit when I trim it. Check that the substrate edge is smooth, otherwise bumps will telegraph to the laminate.

Also, laminate can be a pain to cut with blades and saws designed for wood. It tends to chip, and it has a habit of sliding under rip fences. Doing a practice cut or two before you do final sizing would be a good idea. If you can avoid sawing it after you bond it to the substrate, you probably will be happier. Wear safety glasses whenever you saw or route it.

[Mel Fulks]

If the table is likely to be your only laminate project I would use yellow glue. Then cover it with a piece of mdf for even pressure,put spring clamps around perimeter and a weight in the center. It's easy and typical when new to laminate to
spread the contact stuff unevenly. And I'm guessing you already have the yellow glue.

[johnny means]

A paint roller is the easiest way to spread contact cement evenly. Just pour it right into your material and roll it out. Don't bother with a tray, the cement just thickens up while it waits. Use two layers of adhesive on the substrate as the first will be absorbed and dry very thin.

[Nick Decker]

This is a timely thread for me, laminate noob who needs to put together a couple of sub-fences for a router table. I don't need a giant sheet of laminate, and have found a product by Wilsonart called "Re-Cover" that comes in 2' x 4' sheets. It has self-adhesive already applied, which seems pretty easy to use. Anybody have experience with it?

[Tom M King]

Just a few points that may not have been covered.

When applying the contact cement, you only make one pass. As an example, if you are brushing, you don't brush back and forth.

You get one shot to get the placement right with contact cement. Both pieces need to be dry completely. It's better for it to dry a little longer than absolutely necessary, than to be not quite dry. Worse case is to put it together when it's not quite dry.

It should be sealed down with pressure after the placement. I use a roller similar to this:https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/concrete-cement-and-masonry/masonry-trowels/2207249?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiArqPgBRCRARIsAPwlHoXJLPA0s6VTPaJwI1Da 36IJfjrTibTtrbhU-k4Po1JOfYFUbH33PzEaAj77EALw_wcB

After trimming with a router bit, it often will need some touch-up from a smooth mill file. Only file downward.

If you cut it to rough size on the table saw, come up with some method to keep it from going under the bottom of the fence. A strip of wood with a dab of double sided tape works fine. It doesn't matter if it flexes up a little.

It's so simple that once you do it once correctly, you are now qualified as an expert.

[Jim Becker]

My preference when using laminate is to size the substrate, apply the laminate, trim with a flush-trim router bit and then apply the wood surround, taking great care to make the surround flush with the panel's surface. The alternative to this is to create the substrate to side, apply the edging, apply the laminate over all and then trim the laminate with a flush-trim laminate bit that provides a slightly eased edge all around. I favor this second method for surfaces like a router table top because there's no change to the surface that could catch material in the future.

[Robert Engel]

Brian,

Cut to exact size, then flush trim. I always do edges first. Best to apply hardwood edging before laminate but you can do it either way.

Any good quality flush trim bit will work. Double check your edges for drops of glue, bumps etc first. Keep the cutting part just above the laminate. Go over the edges with sandpaper at just a bit of an angle to remove the sharp edge.

Since you're edge banding, you could also do a chamfer if desired.

For your application I recommend laminating both sides.

Nick,,

I have no experience with that product, but I would be pretty confident it will work. I would check with the supplier about substrate. Sounds like its meant to go over existing laminate.

[Nick Decker]

Robert, according to Wilsonart it'll work fine on MDF, which is what I'll probably use. FWIW, they say it'll also work on painted surfaces, and yes, other laminates. Not for high-heat areas, which doesn't concern me. Thanks.

[Warren Lake]

dont know exactly what he is doing but I always did solid on first laminate over top then flush trim and profile. do that and with good laminate it will last 30 years or more say Nevemar matrix wears very well. The solid put on after will stand up poorly over time no matter what finish if its being used all the time. At the low end of that the sheen on the lacquer will come up from rubbing. I always sprayed contact as that was how I started but not for your set up. What Mel said I had a friend in a top shop in town they put on all their laminate or almost all with carpenter glue and their press. they also had custom tools to trim the solid down flush with the laminate for edging added after if that did that. they set the tools so they left a thin strip and sheared if off with a chisel. Another reason I dont like the solid after is the work to make it flush and perfect then add a finish and it has some mills of thickness, then the fact flush never is, it might be now but wont be down the road.

Like tom I use dowels have 30 or so that are just used for that, keep them clean all the time, everything clean or you will end up with a bump somewhere. On plywood you can tap that down with a hard block, harder on MDF. I sometimes used a roller or sometimes just one of the sanding blocks that had a soft side to it.

[Kevin Beitz]

Yep....Watch that contact cement... if you touch down before your ready you will have some choice words to say....

[brian zawatsky]

Personally, I would oversize everything. Use the contact cement to adhere the two pieces of MDF substrate together. Make sure it is very dry before sticking. then glue the laminate down with contact cement. If you can't spray it (which I assume you can't) then pour out a small puddle in the center and roll it out with a cheapo disposable roller. Again, glue both surfaces and let dry completely. Stick the P-lam and roll it out good with a J roller. Then use the table saw to cut it to size. Make your rough pieces well oversized to compensate for the out of square condition you will have after the glue up. To square it, cut one side, then put the cut side against the fence and cut again. now you have 2 parallel sides. Use a crosscut sled (or a miter gauge) to square the other 2 sides. Also I'd skip the wood edge and use a rubber T-mold like someone above suggested. There is very little chance you will end up with a dead-flat top if you apply wood edge to it, whether before or after laminating, and the goal for a router table is to be dead flat.

Some of the other suggestions are good too, and there's more than one way to pull this off. I do laminate & commercial casework for a living, and this is just how I would do it.

BTW, lacquer thinner is the best solvent for contact cement. Good luck!

[Brian Behrens]

Thanks for the overwhelming response. I think I learned everything I needed to know here. Based on the responses, I am rethinking the hardwood edge. It was only for looks. The base cabinet will be kitchen quality with all raised panels, so I thought it would be a nice touch. Maybe I will just cover the edge with laminate also .

[Wayne Jolly]

A few years ago I did just what you are talking about. 2 layers of mdf glued together with normal wood glue, Formica brand laminate, and maple edging. After gluing the mdf, I cut it to finished size, then laminated it, then flush trimmed it, and added the edging with normal wood glue.

A couple of things I don't see mentioned above. One, almost everyone mentioned cutting it with a table saw (since you asked anyway), but I cut it with my die grinder with cutoff wheel. Works very well, and smells WONderful. :D Next, I used the Weldwood brand of contact cement, and there are two types. Red can (oil? based), and green can (water based). They both work well, but I prefer the red can because it was easier to get spread evenly because it takes a little longer to tack. I usually use one of those 4" paint rollers when applying the cement. Also, I used dowels to keep the two pieces separated while aligning the laminate, but I read somewhere that someone recommended waxing them. I did that and it made them very easy to remove when needed with no adverse effects. I have also used unwaxed bare dowels and that worked too. Lastly, the recommended procedure is to start in the middle and work outward in all directions, and it is probably the best way to do it. But I started by aligning the laminate on the dowels, and then applied the laminate starting at one end and worked across an inch or two at a time using a j-roller making sure to eliminate all air pockets. I don't think I would have done it this way on a larger piece, but it came out great.



Wayne

P.S. I don't think I would use black again.

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[Jim Becker]

Maybe I will just cover the edge with laminate also .

This is actually a good method for shop use because there's no possibility of catching anything on the edge. I think I mentioned that on my previous response. It looks clean, too, and any minor variations in the work surface you have from constructing it are masked when you route the edges of the laminate. :)

[Paul Girouard]

Thanks for the overwhelming response. I think I learned everything I needed to know here. Based on the responses, I am rethinking the hardwood edge. It was only for looks. The base cabinet will be kitchen quality with all raised panels, so I thought it would be a nice touch. Maybe I will just cover the edge with laminate also .

For a router table the hardwood S/E is a good idea, but I’d recommend it go under the P. Lam
top.
I wrote about that in post # 3 or 4.

[Brian Behrens]

I decided I will definitely run the laminate over the hardwood edge, then bevel the edge at 45 with a chamfer bit. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

The top will be large (36*60) to accommodate my 25" incra positioner and the projects I have in mind. I am concerned about the 1.5" mdf sagging over time. Does anyone have any suggestions to address sag prevention? I am considering inlaying some angle iron on the bottom with epoxy and screws, and running some hickory stretchers across the 36" width.

Also, is it necessary to cover the bottom of the tabletop with laminate? I do have enough laminate to do this.

[Brian Behrens]

My Incra package arrived after only 4 weeks. Incra initially told me there was an 8 week lead time, so
it was a nice surprise! Here's what I'm working with for this router table build . The laminate is Formica brand in the "timberworks" color .The cabinet will be raised panel drawers/doors in soft maple since I have a bunch leftover from my work bench build.



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[Robert Engel]

Hey Brian,

No need for that. Yes, laminate both sides this stabilizes the top & you won't have to worry about sagging. But If you're still worried run a couple cross braces either side of the router if you want. Can't recall if this is going to be a cabinet in which case the router will be enclosed and the sides of the router box will support the top on either side.

Good choice on the edge treatment. I was going to say the issue with laminating the edge is sharp corners which is a no-no for shop use.

Show us some pics when you're done. Here's mine: 27X43" top. I've since redone the fence. Bottom drawers hold handheld routers.

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[Nick Decker]

I used the MDF table top sold by Woodpeckers when I put my system together. It's covered with laminate on both sides, which I think is the right way to go. They suggested sealing any exposed areas, like the edges of the insert hole, which I did as well. Used Danish Oil, if memory serves.

I thought about using stretchers of some kind underneath, but ended up just putting a thickness of 3/4" Baltic Birch under the top. That's worked fine over a couple of years, still nice and flat.

Don't know what your plans entail for dust collection, but I later added the Incra dust bucket under there. Glad I didn't go with stretchers, as that would have been a bit of a mess to undo.

[Brian Behrens]

Beautiful setup Robert. What kind of wood is that?