1/4" bandsaw blade

[mark downing]

My bandsaw is a MM16. I've mostly used it for straight cutting and resawing and have never owned a blade smaller than 3/8". I'm about to enter the worlds of toy and bandsaw box making and would like recommendations on blade selection. I'm ok with investing in a carbide tipped blade if advisable.

Also, Mini-Max saw instructions recommend the teeth of the blade slightly extending off the front edge of the upper tire which is not crowned. With a 1/4" or 3/16" blade should it still be positioned that far forward or more centered?
Thanks!

[Van Huskey]

I run the teeth off the front down to 1/4" though I have had small blades that wouldn't track well at the front so I tracked them farther back. There aren't many (if any) 1/4" carbide blades, I would suggest a Lenox bi-metal Diemaster II 1/4" blade if you want something more durable than carbon steel.

When you get down below 1/4" on flat tired saws they become more tricky to track. I have done it but it really does beg for a second smaller saw with crowned tires. In any event, you will need to use you will need to use different guides on an MM16. Either the SCM/Minimax cool block guides, fashion some wooden blocks that get held between the Euro guides or get the Carter Stabilizer. I would suggest the Carter, especially for bandsaw boxes. I think the Stabilizer model you need is the JET1 but verify it.

[Tom M King]

Compare what you need to spend on your saw to the price of a 10" saw.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, I do the same as Van with my MM16, but rarely put on a band narrower than 3/8". I have used as small as a 1/8" blade, but as noted, I had to re-track to the center for that specific band and be really careful with tension.

I also agree with Tom that the best play may be to acquire a smaller saw specifically dedicated to narrow blade usage. I've considered that myself, but haven't really had the projects to support the need.

[Bill Space]

I also agree with Tom that the best play may be to acquire a smaller saw specifically dedicated to narrow blade usage. I've considered that myself, but haven't really had the projects to support the need.

Jim, wait a minute! Since when does the need for another tool require projects to support that need?

:confused::D

On second thought, don't tell me! Wife could stumble on this thread somehow...

[Jim Becker]

Jim, wait a minute! Since when does the need for another tool require projects to support that need?

:confused::D

On second thought, don't tell me! Wife could stumble on this thread somehow...

ROFLOL! Very true, but I'm also conscious of space...I actually have a 14" HFT saw in the adjacent garage that I can refurbish for scrolling if I found I needed that, but to-date, I've not been inspired enough to do it nor do I really have the space since acquiring my CNC. (Which is remarkable for "scrolling" in itself. LOL)

[Tom Bender]

My 17" Grizzly has flat tires and I usually run a 3/16" blade, occasionally a 1/8" or 1/2" blade. I always run it in the center of the tires, never heard of running on the edge. What am I missing here?

[Van Huskey]

My 17" Grizzly has flat tires and I usually run a 3/16" blade, occasionally a 1/8" or 1/2" blade. I always run it in the center of the tires, never heard of running on the edge. What am I missing here?

First, which Grizzly do you have, I am unaware of a 17" Grizzly without a crown.