Curved Work

[Kevin Smira]

So, this may not be a "all-in" neander question...so, if this needs to be moved to the general forum, I'm good with that too...

However, I am building a bench for the end of the bed and the legs on the bench will be in the shaker style. I cut them out the other day, laid out my arc in the bench legs and cut with a jigsaw close to the line (no bandsaw, so jigsaw it was). However, when I went back to my spindle sander, I just couldn't get the gentle curve I was looking for and the wife was not impressed.

So, that brings to question, how would you do it?

"Pre-option" - what's the best way to lay out the arc?
Option 1 - create a template and use a router with a template bit
Option 2 - buy a spokeshave (or two) and use them to ease the edge into the shape I want

Option 2 would be my first "want" as it would allow me to buy more tools. If that's the consensus, where should I start with spokeshaves? I have no experience with them, nor have I ever used one. Should I look at flat bottomed, curved bottom, size, brand, etc?

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Kevin

[Andrew Seemann]

For laying out the arc, I usually use a flexible rule or aluminum yardstick or a thin piece of wood; that's assuming a gentle curve.

If I had to do more than one, or especially if the curves needed to match, I would do #1. Otherwise #2. If you can, skew the spokeshave about 30 degrees or so to give you a little better bearing reference and it will help make the curve more even. My spokeshaves are just old Stanleys with curved bottoms.

Option #1 will probably make your wife happier sooner, if that has any bearing on the decision:)

[William Fretwell]

Bow saw and spokeshave. Neither has to be expensive, both are very useful!

[Phil Mueller]

For laying out the arc, you can use a drawing bow. One can be made from a thin piece of stock and a string, or there are both asemetrical and semetrical drawing bows available from Lee Valley. Once the line is drawn, either a jig saw or bow saw cutting just fat of the line. The convex side can be brought to the line with a plane. The concave side begs for a spokeshave. I’ve also fine tuned both sides with a cabinet scraper.

For gentle curves, a flat bottomed spokeshave will work fine. Tighter curves would benefit from a curved bottom spokeshave. Both take a bit of practice to get the hang of it, but are a real joy to use. Spokeshaves can hog material, but are best used for fine shaping. So if you’ve left a lot of waste, you may want to spindle sand close, then go with the shave. Keep in mind grain direction. Typically you would start at the top of the curve and work in opposite direction toward the ends...but as all things wood, it just depends.

I would avoid a cheap spokeshave. Either look into a vintage stanley #151 (which still could require a bit of fettling), or a new one from LV or LN (which should only require a small amount of honing). There are also a number of specialty makers that offer excellent shaves.

[Tom Bender]

Before worrying about how to cut the wood, start with a satisfying curve on paper. This can be from a plan but if not then you are on a challenging and rewarding path. Over years and many pieces your eye will mature and you will like different materials, styles, balance and of course different curves. Part of a circle is ok at first but later will seem simplistic. Part of an ellipse is much more elegant and owing to it's flexibility will fit much better. Sometimes part of a parabola or hyperbola is better. These constructs can form a basis but you will want to fair them to the piece at hand. Combine bits into ogees and cloud lifts. Enjoy the journey

[lowell holmes]

I made one of these. It was a fun project.

https://www.fine-tools.com/gramercy-tools-bow-saw.html

[Bill Houghton]

Definitely start with a flat-bottomed spokeshave. The balance point between cutting and not with a curved-bottom shave is really delicate, and it takes practice. You can do a lot of inside curves with a flat-bottomed shave. If you decide to buy used/vintage, I personally think a Stanley 51 (gull-wing handles) or 52 (straight handles, and my preference) is better than a 151. You lose the fine adjustment knobs of the 151, but you gain the ability to get into tighter curves without the knobs getting in your way. It takes a little while to learn to adjust it by feel, but not long: brush off your bench, then set a piece of paper on it. Set the front of the spokeshave bed on the paper, then press firmly down on the spokeshave. With a finger or two, press gently on the cutting iron. Tighten the lever cap and try it out. Try again as needed until it's right.

For inside curves, if there's a lot of material to remove, you can learn to use a drawknife - not an expensive tool if you look around for a used one - or you can use the cross-cut-and-break-out-the-waste method, which works like this:
398060
You lay out your curve, cross-cut every 1/2" or so to close to that curve, then use a chisel to knock out the resulting short blocks. From there, some chisel and spokeshave work will get you the desired curve.

[James Pallas]

I'm sure ther are many methods so here is a way that I find useful. first I lay a straight line with a carpenter pencil so it's dark. I then measure out from the center the depth of the arc I think I want. I sharpen a piece of chalk and use a flexible drafting edge to create an arc. I then can experiment just by rubbing off the chalk until I get what I like. Once I'm where I want to be I pencil it in. I can then make a paper template sprayglue to the work and use the weapon of choice to cut the arc. Usually true with a spoke shave inside and a plane outside followed by scrapers rasps or maybe sand paper. I also like trammel points, large compass, and drafting curves for layout work. I've taped chalk to compasses dividers and trammel points on occasion.
Jim

[Kevin Smira]

Thanks all. I used a drawing bow to create the curve I wanted on a pc of 1/8” hardboard. I cut that out and trued it up using a multitude of things. I’ll use it as a template to route, but have to buy a longer cut length flush trim bit. But, while buying the bit, I’ll “have” to buy a spokeshave as well. Been looking around and have decided that it will either be a vintage Stanley 52, a Lie Nielsen Boggs or a Veritas flat bottomed. Unless someone wants to talk me into something else...

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks all. I used a drawing bow to create the curve I wanted on a pc of 1/8” hardboard. I cut that out and trued it up using a multitude of things. I’ll use it as a template to route, but have to buy a longer cut length flush trim bit. But, while buying the bit, I’ll “have” to buy a spokeshave as well. Been looking around and have decided that it will either be a vintage Stanley 52, a Lie Nielsen Boggs or a Veritas flat bottomed. Unless someone wants to talk me into something else...

Eventually you will want a curved bottom spoke shave like a Stanley #63 or something similar.

A little practice on a piece of scrap will help you learn a few tricks.

jtk

[James Pallas]

I enjoy work that has curves or angles. Everyone has different approaches. That is what makes it interesting. in my experiments I’ve found that a little goes a long way. It always surprises me what our eyes can detect. I’ve found that using a straight line to work from helps. For example if you put an eigth inch taper on an eighteen inch leg it’s very noticeable. It’s the same for curves. I believe it is very easy to go too far with curves. So I’ve adopted a theory that a little is good but too much goes bad quickly. Just adding some thoughts for discussion..
Jim

[Steven Lee, NC]

I went with a version of your option 1. Bought one of these when they were available for pre-order with curves in mind to make my own tenplates.

Love it. https://www.shapertools.com/

[Prashun Patel]

I am in a camp of one here, because I've mentioned it a million times but I've never seen someone else use this technique:

a small block plane.

The slightly longer sole of a block plane (vis-a-vis a spokeshave) FAIRS rough curves as well as a spokeshave. In fact, even if you use a spokeshave - which I also use, make sure you skew the angle. Skewing the block plane makes its reference face shorter, whereby skewing the spokeshave makes it longer. Both are desirable on concave surfaces.

For convex surfaces, you don't have to skew the block as much.

I find a block easier to use in all but the slow, gradual curves. You don't even have to LOOK at the curve; if roughed out close enough, the block plane just finds the perfect curve.

Sight along the edge to find your bumps.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is my favorite for large inside curves:

398102

It also does well on outside curves.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Here is my favorite for large inside curves:

398102

It also does well on outside curves.

jtk
I have often been tempted to buy one. Never have found one in the wild that didn’t look like it had taken many unsuccessful flight lessons or that had a price like buying a plane, as in airplane.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

I have often been tempted to buy one. Never have found one in the wild that didn’t look like it had taken many unsuccessful flight lessons or that had a price like buying a plane, as in airplane.
Jim

Then there is a problem many of them have, a previous owner who unknowingly switched the chip breaker with one from a #3. The blades are the same size, but the #3 chip breaker doesn't work well in the #113.

It took me a couple of tries to find one that was proper and worked well.

jtk

[Mark Maleski]

Man, I can relate to challenges with smooth curves. Here's a ultra-curvey project I just finished (I don't know why the image is rotated counter-clockwise...but you get the point):
398179

I don't think anyone's mentioned rasps yet? I prefer rasps to spokeshaves, particularly if the curve is too tight for a spokeshave (though it doesn't sound like you're facing that on this project). However....

...I don't think your challenge is going to be solved by tools. You already own tools that can get a nice, smooth curve (jigsaw plus sander). Changing tools might make things a bit better, but ultimately you're going to solve the problem by focusing on the cut (whether jigsaw, bowsaw, bandsaw...) to stay a consistent distance from your line with minimal humps. Then focus on using whatever smoothing/fine-tuning method you choose to get a fair curve that lands right on your line. Spend time on these steps to get it right, and don't accept compromises. Don't worry about spending a lot of time on this...you need to get it right before you can get it fast.

Even were you to switch to a router, you'd still need to follow those steps to get a smooth curve in your template.