Chuck stuck on spindle

[Chuck Sager]

I just picked up an older 3520b from a friend and it has been I a storage garage for over a year with a One Way Talon chuck on. I can not get the chuck off🤷🏻*♂️🤷🏻*♂️ I am locking the spindle and using a half inch bar as a lever pulling towards the operator position. I can’t figure it out. Rust? Checked for a lock nut but didn’t find one. Need some ideas

[Paul Williams]

You checked for a lock nut. Did you mean a grub or set screw? I have never seen a lock nut on a spindle, but all of my SN2 chucks have a set screw that can be used to lock the chuck to the spindle for reverse turning.

[Steve Eure]

I am not familiar with the One Way Talon chuck, but on all of my Nova' there are allen screws closest side to the head-stock. Is that what you mean by a lock-nut?

[Marvin Hasenak]

Is there any way to lock the spindle without using the built in spindle lock? If you can, stick a solid blank side ways in the chuck so that a part of it is hanging for enough that you can leverage on it. But what you want to do is rap it with a hammer. I personally use a piece of 2" angle iron to but the chuck loose on my metal lathe, I chuck it in, an whack it, and remove the angle iron and then unscrew it. Just remember to have it set up to loosen the chuck when you whack it, so as to not tighten it.

But most of the built in spindle locks won't take that kind of a treatment

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Using impact will always work better to get something like that to come loose.

Lock the spindle, clamp a piece of hard wood or steel into the chucks jaws, something like a foot long or better.

Then hit that piece with a fast impact, that should get it to come loose, but before all this try to get some good penetrating oil into the treads of the spindle and chuck.

[Chuck Sager]

That is what I checked for the reverse set screw

[Chuck Sager]

Yes none found

[Chuck Sager]

I think I did just what you suggested I used the spindle lock on the front of the control panel and put a piece of 1/2” steel stock in the chuck to be used as a lever and pounded on it with a dead blow hammer. The chuck did not budge!😔. Maybe more force with the hammer tomorrow

[Chuck Sager]

I haven’t tried WD40 yet. I will give it a goog soaking before service tomorrow and try the hammer again afterwards

[John K Jordan]

If locked up from a bit of corrosion I'd try squirting some PB Blaster towards the threads on both ends of the chuck (my favorite stuff for getting things unstuck around the farm.) Let sit for a few hours, spray some more, rap sharply on the connection to set up vibrations then try again. If still stuck, repeat a few times, perhaps waiting overnight.

If all else fails, heat will break loose almost anything but I'd kind of hate to take a propane torch to the back of a chuck. (I wonder if the dry ice trick would work here?)

I'd also be cautious of escalating with longer cheater bars and more and more force - how much will the spindle and spindle lock mechanism take before something is damaged?

JKJ

[Chris A Lawrence]

Do you have an impact wrench? If you do you might be able to clamp down on a socket. The impact action might help loosen it up.

[Matt Mattingley]

Penetrating fluid is my go to. The regular WD-40 I considere it kind of an outdoor machinery preventative maintenance fluid. There is the WD-40 that has a penetrating oil in it.

Fluid, shock, fluid, shock...heat, shock... heat, fluid, shock...then go to lawn bar persuasion with heat, fluid, shock....

[JohnC Lucas]

Penetrating fluid and patience. WD 40 is not a penetrant. I would be nervous about using force when you only have the spindle lock pushed in. The spindle locking ring is cast and can break. Try to figure out some way to lock the handwheel as well as the spindle lock. I have what's called a chain wrench that would work but there is probably a good solution without using a chain wrench on the handwheel. My experience with things like that is to put penetrant on it, wait, apply some more and wait. Each time you apply some tap on the chuck to create some vibrations. That helps the penetrant get into it. Might take several days. Only after that would I apply the impact kind of force. A piece of steel about 2 feet long clamped in the jaws and then a sharp rap with the deadblow should work after you give the penetrant enough time to work. I remember one lady actually bent an aluminum pipe wrench trying to get her chuck off.

[Chuck Sager]

John thx for the ptopain idea. Took about 5 minutes of heating but it did come off👍👍👍

[Thomas Canfield]

I broke the index ring/spindle lock on my little Nova Comet with excessive force and found out it was plastic ring. Only one cog missing and I have replacement on hand when (no if) I have to change spindle bearings or belt. Impact is key to breaking loose. Penetrating oil and tapping on the back end of the chuck with hammer (use rod if cannot hit with hammer direct) can also help to loosen the rust/contact. Just don't loose your cool and over impact and do permanent damage. DAMHIK.

[Chuck Sager]

It seams the old saying is true, there is nothing that a torch can’t fix. 5 minutes of butane and it popped right off😉

[John K Jordan]

John thx for the ptopain idea. Took about 5 minutes of heating but it did come off👍👍👍

Excellent! Heat (or cold) are excellent for expansion or contraction - putting the shaft in a freezer and/or heating the bearing in hot oil is a way to install bearings on a press-fit shaft. I have used dry ice to cool one part but it's harder to come by than a torch flame. (These days I generally use mapp gas to heat quickly - great for heating steal for bending and more convenient than the oxyacetylene torch.)

JKJ

[Fred Belknap]

397950



Don't do this

[Richard Coers]

How hot did the shaft get? The bearings have seals in them, and too much heat could hurt them and you can lose some grease out of the bearing as well. Bearings that have been is storage for a while might need to be replaced anyway.