Need More Gripping Power on Shave Horse

[Mike Hutchison]

I built this Shaving Horse years ago.
I don't use it much; in part because legitimate need
for it doesn't present itself all that often. However, another reason
it doesn't get a lot of use is that it has never had what I thought
was a firm grip on the workpiece. I have added hardwood pieces to
the side of the head to try and add mass, another upright piece under
"ramp" to eliminate flex, wrapping clamp cross piece with leather. In the
second photo you can see some adapter pieces that fasten to the ramp.
These were made in square and round shapes to see if that would help.
Also, a second foot peg on other side of horse was added to even/level
out pressure. None of these measures has really improved the situation.
The other day I started wondering if basic design was the problem.
To Wit: Angle of Incline of ramp. I can't remember where I got dimens,
and the angle or it was just all guessed or what but that angle shown
in first pic is 20 Deg. or thereabouts.
I have some ideas to remedy problem but they involve metal parts
and I wanted to stick to, if not a traditional look, at least all wood construction.

397663

Any thoughts appreciated.

[ken hatch]

I built this Shaving Horse years ago.
I don't use it much; in part because legitimate need
for it doesn't present itself all that often. However, another reason
it doesn't get a lot of use is that it has never had what I thought
was a firm grip on the workpiece. I have added hardwood pieces to
the side of the head to try and add mass, another upright piece under
"ramp" to eliminate flex, wrapping clamp cross piece with leather. In the
second photo you can see some adapter pieces that fasten to the ramp.
These were made in square and round shapes to see if that would help.
Also, a second foot peg on other side of horse was added to even/level
out pressure. None of these measures has really improved the situation.
The other day I started wondering if basic design was the problem.
To Wit: Angle of Incline of ramp. I can't remember where I got dimens,
and the angle or it was just all guessed or what but that angle shown
in first pic is 20 Deg. or thereabouts.
I have some ideas to remedy problem but they involve metal parts
and I wanted to stick to, if not a traditional look, at least all wood construction.



Any thoughts appreciated.

Mike,

I just checked my shave horse and the head and treadle are similar to yours. The main difference is in the ramp. My ramp is a thick block of wood that sets under the pivot point and is adjustable up and down via a ratchet. The ramp itself is slightly over 20* (rough measurement) and the horse has no finish. Mine holds very well, I wish I had a better answer for you.

ken

[Bob Leistner]

Squats, jogging, running up and down stairs, adjust the seat forward, leather on the ramp.

[Bob Glenn]

Your ramp looks like it is angled up too much, unless you are very very tall. Lower the ramp then move the pivot of the treadle towards the seat a bit and cover both the treadle clamp and ramp deck with leather that is glued down. That should fix it.

[russell lusthaus]

Nice looking horse. Really like the seat. Something seems off to me, though. On my horse, when at rest (no foot pressure), the head is naturally in the max open position and the foot brace is at it closet (horizontally) to the user. Put in the work, press away with feet, and the head closes on the work . Take pressure off foot brace, head opens by itself, reposition the work, press with feet, etc. In yours, it looks like the head is resting on the ramp with no foot pressure. I would think that would be awkward, to say the least, as you have to use your feet to pull the foot brace toward you to open the head before putting the work.

If you move the pivot point further away from the feet, you will get more hold. Maybe put the pivot in the edge of the the ramp?

I find the angle of the ramp matters most depending on how long the work piece is. The longer the work piece, the shallower the angle is needed, or else the back of the bench is in the way of the workpiece lying flat or the work piece is too high or extends too far forward to work from the seated position. I like my ramp to run off the back off the bench to accommodate long thin work pieces. I work longbows on mine, so typically I am working with 5-7 foot work pieces. Sometimes they even hit the floor at the back. Been thinking of putting longer legs or blocking mine up to stop that. Hope these thoughts help.

Russ

[David Silverson]

I agree the dimensions, pivot point and ramp angle seem off. Have a look at Peter Follansbee Green Woodworking plan, free on line, for the basic layout.

[Ira Matheny]

I just check my shaving horse and found something. The length of my the pivot point is different. I have nearly twice the distance from my foot-bar to pivot as is the pivot point to the holding head. Therefore, with foot pressure applied, I get a two-to-one pressure advantage.
By moving the pivot point, you should be able to significantly add more holding pressure at the head.

[Mike Hutchison]

All replies appreciated; I think my first course of action will be to try either leather, a piece of belt sander belt,
or some of the material that is put on steps for traction, applied to the ramp. This is the least invasive surgery
at this point. Will advise if satisfactory result obtained.

[Tyler Bancroft]

Lee Valley sells some "Super-High-Friction" tape that sounds like it might be appropriate.

[Ted Phillips]

I have successfully used some "Stair Tread Grip Tape" from the big box hardware store. It has an adhesive backing, but can be peeled off when it needs replacing. It gives good grip, while not marring the wood like coarse sandpaper.

[Mike Hutchison]

A week or so ago I was doing some filing of paid household bills and found a sample "shingle" in the presentation folder the roofer gave us when we had the roof re-done a few years ago. It was bigger than area of ramp I wanted to cover and had
a peel back. Why not. Just had a chance to give the horse a try after sticking that stuff on there. Much improved gripping
power.