hand saw sharpening tools

[Eric Rathhaus]

I want to learn how to sharpen may hand saws and have some old cheap ones that are perfect to learn on, both back saws and panel saws. So I'm looking for suggestions on the files I'll need and sources.

[lowell holmes]

Lee Valley has all the saw sharpening tools you need.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

I have their saw files, file holder, and saw set. I have a collection handsaws.
You will need the jointer edger tool to flatten the tooth line.

[Jim Koepke]

I want to learn how to sharpen may hand saws and have some old cheap ones that are perfect to learn on, both back saws and panel saws. So I'm looking for suggestions on the files I'll need and sources.

Recently my local hardware stores have been carrying decent triangle files for saw sharpening.

For information on saw sharpening Vintage Saws dot com is a great source:

http://www.vintagesaws.com

Look in the library link.

There is also information on saws and other tools in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

My first saw vise was shop made from wood for holding back saws.

jtk

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks, Jim. i've read Bob Smalser's instructions in the Faq and downloaded the pamphlet he believes is great for beginners. I just want to avoid buying too many items until I've tried sharpening a few saws.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks, Lowell. I was looking at Lee Valley, which prompted my post. I'm tempted to buy the EZE-Lap diamond file sets bus I also have some moulding plane irons to sharpen but don't know if the EZE-Lap set can be substituted for the normal steel files.

[justin sherriff]

I got my saw files from blackburn tools http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/taper-saw-files/index.html
there is some good info on there too about filing
allso Paul sellers has a good video that helped me out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUo
just buy 1 or 2 files and try it out. Your old saw will cut better even if you do not do the best job your first time.

[brian zawatsky]

don't go buy a bunch of gizmos. all you need to joint is a mill file and a steady hand. you can make a rake angle reference jig out of a simple block of wood in literally 3 minutes, so skip the file guide/holder too. Good info at Blackburn tools, also check out http://www.vintagesaws.com Lots of good info there. I've had good luck with Bahco saw files, but there's really no substitute for old U.S. made Nicholsons. They're getting a bit harder to find though. If you have a tough time finding good files shoot me a pm, I can perhaps spare a couple from my stash for you.

[Phil Mueller]

If your eyes are as old as mine, you might also want to pick up a small bottle of dykem to paint the teeth. It sure helps me keep track of where I am while filing...especially crosscut.

[Eric Rathhaus]

I will! Thanks.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks, Brian. I posted the question to avoid going out a buying a whole slew of item I don't need. I've already determined to make that the jig I see Bob Smalser use rather than purchase the Lee Valley tool.

[Kory Cassel]

I bought a boxed dozen nos vintage Kearney and Foot 6" slim tapers on ebay a few months ago for $40. Search 'nos slim taper file' and see what you can find. A dozen of a given size should keep you going a while. Also recently used a couple of the Glardon swiss files from Blackburne tools. They did a great job on my 20 ppi dovetail saw, pretty pricey though. The old Providence, Rhode Island Nicholsons are supposed to be better than what's generally available new. This is what I mostly use (I also buy these nos from ebay) and they do file very smoothly. The nos box lots come up fairly often, so it's worth keeping an eye out and snatching the ones you need as they appear. It doesn't take too long to collect a pretty good supply.

[Tom M King]

Two things of high importance are a vise that holds securely, and good lighting. In the picture of the vises below, I had used the small one for decades, but ran across the larger one just a few years ago. I actually liked the regular sized one, but you had to move a handsaw twice to cover the full length, but the larger one only once. There are some good, new ones, but if you can find a decent condition old one, they work fine.

The other thing is good lighting. When I'm sharpening a saw at a jobsite, like in the picture, that Lowes LED worklight gets moved to either side to shine the faces of the sharpened teeth back at me. I find that lighting more useful than the overhead one in my shop.

Once you get a saw sharp, if you sharpen it fairly often, before it requires multiple strokes on each tooth, it's only takes a light, single stroke. I do most of my sharpening with that light stroke only using one hand. Just as I sharpen a chainsaw chain, I can see better with one hand, and placing the little smooth end in the gullet, gives me a split second extra to see that I'm on the right tooth.

A comfortable file handle makes a big difference too. I find that Oregon wooden chainsaw file handles fit my hand perfectly, which makes the repetitive motion more comfortable.

[steven c newman]

Long while back..picked a Wentworth No. 1 saw vise....( $10)
397739
I also found a handle to hold a file....at least better than the Visegrips I was using..
397740
I buy the 6" extra slim "saw files" Stanley sells..
397741
I can get about 4 saws out of each $6 file...since these old eyes have trouble seeing anything higher the a 7ppi ( two teeth look like 4, or even 8) I usually stick with..
397742
Rip saws....and, in case they NEED it...I have a Millers Falls saw set #214....

There is a LONG mill file in the shop, IF I ever need it. haven't yet. I do have a "spotlight" at the bench, usually for joinery work, that I can adjust to shine on the saw teeth

[Pete Taran]

The bigger the saw vise the better. More mass makes for a nicer cut and not having to hassle with moving the saw. Attached is the dog diggity of saw vises, picked up last year at the MWTCA meet! 26" rip clamped for scale.

397748

[Tom M King]

I've been looking for one of those for decades. The closest I've come was an Acme that included the filing machine. I only wanted the vise, so kept waiting, and still am. I don't know who made the larger one that I have. It has no name on it. I bought it from Lee, at the Best Things, and he had never seen another one like it either.

I absolutely agree about more mass. I've never used a wooden one that I came close to liking. The heavier one I have now makes for noticeably smoother filing than the old Stearns I had used for so long before.

edited to add: Just for curiousity, I checked on ebay, and sure enough, there is an Acme on there now, with the rest of the machine. There is also a Zapart on there, the likes of which I have never seen before.

[lowell holmes]

I have filed the teeth off of a handsaw, made a paper pattern of the tpi, taped it to the saw plate, filed the teeth progressively .
The teeth were cut square and then the fleam filed, and then the teeth set. Try it on an old saw, it is a fun trip.


Fleam is the angle across the face of the tooth or perpendicular to the tooth line. By adding fleam you turn the teeth into little knives that slice the grain instead of chop it like a chisel. ... As such high fleam saws should be used in softer woods that won't push back so much on the more fragile teeth.

You can get everything you need to do it with from Lee Valley. You will want a saw set, but you can set the teeth with a screwdriver.
I use a screwdriver set on finer teeth.

[Eric Rathhaus]

very nice. I have the small wentworth No 1

[Tom M King]

That will work fine. I have one of those vises too.