Felder Diamond Universal Saw Blade

[Jeremy Snow]

Does anyone know who makes the diamond saw blade for Felder? I have one on my KF700. I have never been more impressed with a saw blade..

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Wow, never see it on Felder e-shop. Impressive blade, including price too :eek:.
Ed.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Jeremy, the few times I've seen it mentioned, here, no one had bought one, but everyone was curious. Sounds like you have one? Tell us about it!

[Ed Mazuronis]

I was very interested in this blade as well, but was talked out of it by a few member on another forum. I also have a KF700s, so I'd like to hear your thoughts. Never too late to place an order if it really is as nice as you say.

[Jeremy Snow]

I have had blades from Forrest and Freud on my old Jet Cabinet Saw, I probably had eight blades overall for ripping, cross cutting, laminate and so forth. I was intrigued by the blade being quieter. I can say that it is quieter, much quieter. I measured below 80dB at the blade during cutting. My cyclone is 82-85dB.

This blade, while new, rips and cross cuts laminate, cherry plywood, solid cherry and maple as if it was not even there. I can barely feel pressure on the slider when making a cut. At first I thought that I had not raised the blade high enough.

The quality of the cross cuts is amazing and rips on the slider produce what I would call a true glue line rip cut, depending on the side being used. The closet I have seen to this was an old Forrest Wood Worker II.

On plywood and laminate there has been no tear out. I mean none, no fuzzies, no broken melamine, none. The scoring unit on the saw may have been a unnecessary feature. I will admit that the larger blade diameter produces a more favorable cut for sheet goods.

While the price may not be cheap, when I consider that this may be the one saw blade to rule them all, it ends up being cheaper than buying three separate blades with the added benefit of not having to change it out.

Time will tell on how often it has to be cleaned and how well the cutting edges hold up. I do not think it can be sharpened so that should be factored in as well.

Did I say it was quiet?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Now I want one...

A little googling led me to these:
https://www.ake.de/en/highlights/supersilent-saw-blade/new-supersilent-3/
http://www.napgladu.com/Products/woodsawblades/PanelSaw_Super_Silent.html

Actually, you can see the AKE logo on the blade on one of Felder's videos.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Leitz maybe? They made some of the blades several years back, I have several that are pretty good. I don't have the one you are talking about though.

[Brent Malwicks]

I think they've got really good universal diamond sawblades. I actually got one from them a couple months ago, and the performance it provided left me a little surprised - it was one of the most silent saw blades I've purchased since taking up woodworking. They're the real kings of "silent Power", but beyond what others have said here, I don't know much about who makes the blade. :)

[John Sincerbeaux]

I bought my blade through Martin. They call it “SuperSilent”. Made by AKE.
One thing not mentioned here is the blade’s thickness. These blades are super thin. So minimal noise, minimal waste, minimal tearout, and will stay sharp 20 times longer than conventional blade. The blades come with a dedicated thin riving knife which adds to the cost. It is my go to blade for “money” cuts, where minimal waste and tearout are desired.
397548

[Dan Friedrichs]

John, it seems like part of the value proposition is that you can just leave it in the saw all the time and use it for everything (no need for separate rip/crosscut). You swap it with other blades, though?

[John Sincerbeaux]

John, it seems like part of the value proposition is that you can just leave it in the saw all the time and use it for everything (no need for separate rip/crosscut). You swap it with other blades, though?

Dan, great question! To be totally honest, I haven’t even thought about using the blade as my “daily driver”. I bought the blade for various delicate applications. Actually, the blade was sold to me based on what things I wanted to do.
I guess kind of old-school thinking that I would preserve the blade for the finicky cuts.

The literature that came with the blade seemed to really stress keeping the blade CLEAN! Even on the Felder video, they show the blade being cleaned. The blade comes with a “magical” cleaner. I suppose, the very geometry that makes this blade so amazing, is also it’s curse? It probably does not shed wood pitch as well as conventional “toothed” blades. I think on these blades the inverse relationship of dirty blades to performance is way more dramatic than that of conventional blades.

I have a set of LN dovetail chisels that never see anything but dovetail work. Probably just ancestor worship?

[Chris Parks]

Gee, you wouldn't want to hit a nail or screw with one! I have about a dozen blades I have picked up cheap over the years and if I sold all of them I wouldn't be out of pocket and absolutely no need to change blades. The idea is certainly appealing now to ask the price.

[Paul Gilmartin]

I've been using my the Felder Diamond Universal blade since I got my Felder sliding table saw and if you can afford it I highly recommend it. The issue is finding one that fits non-Felder machines. I use it to rip and crosscut everything; I actually laugh sometimes at how smooth, quiet and effortless the cuts are. It cuts 3" thick cocobolo like butter. As mentioned above it requires a very thin riving knife as this is a very thin (and quiet) blade.

[Mark e Kessler]

wondering cost to resharpen and where...

[Erik Loza]

wondering cost to resharpen and where...

I don't know if it could even be re-sharpened. The teeth are tiiiny. That being said, it gives AMAZING finish quality! We have (or had) one laying around the Dallas showroom. Thought it was a tile or cement fiber blade when I first saw it. Does not look like anything you would ever use to cut wood with, let alone crosswise against the grain of a tropical hardwood. The guys up there were like, "Yeah, this thing is awesome". Looking at it, my first though was, "You guys are drinking the koolaid. Wanna' watch me stall out and burn your magic $500 blade?" But sure enough, it cuts beautifully. Quiet but makes a high-pitched sound during the cut. More router than table saw. Tried it out on a bunch of different species, both with and across the grain and gives amazing finish quality and never slowed down. As others have mentioned, this is not an all-purpose blade. It reminds me very much of a Lenox Tri-master in that way: You might clog it up with wet softwoods. I did notice a lot of resin buildup on the blade, probably because the kerf is so thin. So, there is probably a maintenance element to using one I've never used a sawblade that gives such a perfect finish as this thing. Applications I could see would be furniture makers working with hardwoods, especially strips. And for cabinet makers who are doing real wood edgebanding and want to rip strips on the table saw. They could go right to the bander from this blade. Just my experience.

Erik

[Mark e Kessler]

I don't know if it could even be re-sharpened. The teeth are tiiiny. That being said, it gives AMAZING finish quality! We have (or had) one laying around the Dallas showroom. Thought it was a tile or cement fiber blade when I first saw it. Does not look like anything you would ever use to cut wood with, let alone crosswise against the grain of a tropical hardwood. The guys up there were like, "Yeah, this thing is awesome". Looking at it, my first though was, "You guys are drinking the koolaid. Wanna' watch me stall out and burn your magic $500 blade?" But sure enough, it cuts beautifully. Quiet but makes a high-pitched sound during the cut. More router than table saw. Tried it out on a bunch of different species, both with and across the grain and gives amazing finish quality and never slowed down. As others have mentioned, this is not an all-purpose blade. It reminds me very much of a Lenox Tri-master in that way: You might clog it up with wet softwoods. I did notice a lot of resin buildup on the blade, probably because the kerf is so thin. So, there is probably a maintenance element to using one I've never used a sawblade that gives such a perfect finish as this thing. Applications I could see would be furniture makers working with hardwoods, especially strips. And for cabinet makers who are doing real wood edgebanding and want to rip strips on the table saw. They could go right to the bander from this blade. Just my experience.

Erik


Thanks, assuming if you hit a nail your screwed but other than that seems if you could eliminate multiple blades and resharpening (i have heard that they stay sharp wicked long) it might be worth it, I only do this on the side now but when I had my shop multiples of the same blade and probobly around 8-10 blades per saw. Now I am looking at maybe 2 -36t to 48t ATB for every day cuts then maybe two other specialty blades, I will probobly only need to send out the 36t or 48t for sharpening 2-3 times a year but I am in VT and it can be a hassle since their is no local sharpening. Now if I could get my sales guy on the phone to finalize my order....

Mark

[Erik Loza]

Thanks, assuming if you hit a nail your screwed but other than that seems if you could eliminate multiple blades and resharpening (i have heard that they stay sharp wicked long) it might be worth it, I only do this on the side now but when I had my shop multiples of the same blade and probobly around 8-10 blades per saw. Now I am looking at maybe 2 -36t to 48t ATB for every day cuts then maybe two other specialty blades, I will probobly only need to send out the 36t or 48t for sharpening 2-3 times a year but I am in VT and it can be a hassle since their is no local sharpening. Now if I could get my sales guy on the phone to finalize my order....

Mark

That approach makes sense. Since the teeth are diamond coated, I can't imagine you could even sharpen it. Not that you would need to. But I could see a nail wrecking this blade. As long it's going to be used on properly dried wood that has no chance of screws or nails, I'm sure you'll be fine. One other thought occurred to me: "If" you plan to run it on a saw with a 1" or 5/8" arbor, you will obviously need a reducer bushing. BUT, that blade is so narrow that you might have to have the bushing machined down so as not to interfere with the arbor flange or nut. Someone needs to buy one of these for a regular saw and report back on how it went.

Erik

[Mark e Kessler]

Thanks for the info, it would be going on a k700s

Mark

[Tim Derr]

Hey Jeremy -

AKE and Felder both work together with the Diamond Saw blades. The blades are made in Germany.
Had to run out to the showroom to double check because we have one on our showroom K700S - and they're AKE. Great quality and finish of work pieces.

If anyone ever needs the part number for future reference it's 03.11.30043



Dia. = diameter
300 mm


Z = Number of teeth
43


ø = Bore diameter
30 mm


W = Tooth width
2,4/1,8 mm


SB = Cutting width
2,4 mm


BQ = Blade quality
DP

[Tom Paulley]

Tim, make that blade available in 10" diameter with 5/8" arbor, and you won't be able to keep them on the shelf. The reviews/comments are nothing short of amazing.

[Jon Snider]

Hey Jeremy -

AKE and Felder both work together with the Diamond Saw blades. The blades are made in Germany.
Had to run out to the showroom to double check because we have one on our showroom K700S - and they're AKE. Great quality and finish of work pieces.

If anyone ever needs the part number for future reference it's 03.11.30043



Dia. = diameter
300 mm


Z = Number of teeth
43


ø = Bore diameter
30 mm


W = Tooth width
2,4/1,8 mm


SB = Cutting width
2,4 mm


BQ = Blade quality
DP



















do you have a part number for the riving knife that fits? K700S

thx.

[Mark e Kessler]

As I understand it this blade will require more maintenance as far as keeping it clean as there is just not a lot of room for the pitch to go or build up and then of course if you hit anything metal you are SOL, more common in residential and farm wood but I have hit metal from commercial bought lumber. Still the benefits seem to outweigh the negatives, I might just have to try it...

Mark

[Zac wingert]

Agreed, it could change a lot

[Marvin McConoughey]

Is there a 30mm to 1-inch spacer washer to permit use on a non-30mm saw arbor?

[Erik Loza]

Is there a 30mm to 1-inch spacer washer to permit use on a non-30mm saw arbor?

Pretty sure Freud makes one (so probably Amana, too). Be aware: This blade is very thin-kerf, so you may have to sand the bushing to get it to the correct thickness.

Erik