SawStop Router Table - Stand alone first, then add to saw?

[Erik Oerter]

My long term plan is to get a SawStop PC saw and have the router table built into the right side.

I am wondering if I can get the in-line router table first and use it stand alone, than add it to the saw once I get it. The in-line table is only 27"d x 16"w, so that would be small for a stand alone, but do-able for the benefit of just adding it to the new saw, thus saving space, etc.

Anybody have thoughts or experience with this? Should I be looking at non-SawStop router table options, that could fit the new saw? What is the best stand alone router table (of any size) right now?

Thanks

[ChrisA Edwards]

I just decided to add a router table to the right side of my SawStop. I did this mainly because I wanted to add the Incra LS-TS rails and fence positioner.

The Incra Table saw fence lifts off and rotates through 180 degrees and becomes the router fence base. i use the Incra router table with a Jessum Lift.

Just an alternative.

Sorry I don't have a better picture
https://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/Incra%20LS-Fence/IncraFence1_zps0lvj2zt3.jpg

[Simon MacGowen]

I just decided to add a router table to the right side of my SawStop. I did this mainly because I wanted to add the Incra LS-TS rails and fence positioner.

The Incra Table saw fence lifts off and rotates through 180 degrees and becomes the router fence base. i use the Incra router table with a Jessum Lift.

Just an alternative.

Sorry I don't have a better picture
https://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/Incra%20LS-Fence/IncraFence1_zps0lvj2zt3.jpg

I would not use the same fence for both the saw and router because if in the middle of a router job and you need to rip a piece, you will lose your router fence setting. Partly for this reason, I decided against putting a router on my SawStop (though I could add a second fence for the router).

Simon

[Bill Dufour]

Does this sawstop router table have a brake setup? Since they say it is criminal not to have a one on a tablesaw I assume it does. Is it standalone or doe sit require the saw for the controls? can you use other brand routers on their table?.
Bil lD.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I would not use the same fence for both the saw and router because if in the middle of a router job and you need to rip a piece, you will lose your router fence setting. Partly for this reason, I decided against putting a router on my SawStop (though I could add a second fence for the router).

Simon

The fence has positive positioning stops for both use in the saw or routing positions. The LS Positioner has micro repeatable adjustment.

The hardest part would be setting the router bit height after lowering it into the table to make the spare saw cut part. But not having been in this situation, I believe the markings for height adjustment are also pretty accurate on the Jessum router lift.

[Rick Potter]

I would suggest that if you start with separates, you will probably decide not to marry them if you don't have to.

Your plan sounds like a good way to try it out.

[Simon MacGowen]

The fence has positive positioning stops for both use in the saw or routing positions. The LS Positioner has micro repeatable adjustment.

The hardest part would be setting the router bit height after lowering it into the table to make the spare saw cut part. But not having been in this situation, I believe the markings for height adjustment are also pretty accurate on the Jessum router lift.

If you can do that with the LS fence, having one fence for both the saw and router will make good sense.

Simon

[Bill McDermott]

A Stanley Workmate is a dang handy thing to have in a shop (or when you are working outside, etc..). I have a router lift built into the side table on my SS. But before I made that, I used a sheet of plywood with cleats that the Workmate could grab. It worked fine. When you upgrade, you still have the Workmate.

On the fence topic. I made a simple plywood fence for the router table that has a dust collection hole. I use F clamps to attach it. The 4" hose goes into the simple box below the table. A 2 1/2" hose goes from the back of the fence to the back of the router box. The over / under setup works amazingly well. I could not do that using the TS fence.

[Dave Anthony]

I added a Bench Dog router table & Triton router to the right side of a SS, with a separate base for support. I don't see any reason you couldn't do this & add the saw later.

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[Josko Catipovic]

With advance apologies for thread drift, has anybody compared Sawstop and Jet router tables? I'm looking for a nice stand-alone cast-iron table, and these two seem to have it all. Is there any reason to prefer one over the other? Thanks in advance.

[Brent Malwicks]

There are many ways to handle it that are just fine. I remember having a similar issue before I found a long-term solution on Highland Woodworking - they offer both phenolic tables and cast iron tables, which are all standalone SawStop router tables. You should check it out on their website.

[Maria Stepanova]

I dont know very much about Sawstop and Jet router tables. Please help me to do comparision with other routertable.

[glenn bradley]

To the OP's original question, I do not have experience with Saw Stop's table but, started as you suggest. I had a router table on legs which became a wing on the saw. As I got better at dust collection the wing became a stand alone cabinet that bolted to the saw. This configuration continued when I got a Saw Stop PCS.

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The RT top has inserts sunk into the side that butts up against the TS wing. Bolts go through the wing and into the RT top as if it were another wing. This is done as a last step once both machines are leveled and aligned.

P.s. Just laughing to myself as there is little sign of "better" dust collection in that photo. :rolleyes: