File handles - how to attach???

[Randall J Cox]

Ok, not exactly purist woodworking question but - I have a drawer full of files, metal, wood, needle, round, triangle, long, short, etc. I don't think I have ever had a handle on one over the years. I normally wrap a small rag around the tang for use. I have one handle that the end screws and two metal brackets inside clamp down - only problem is that the file handle always comes loose. I know I can turn some on the lathe, drill a hole in the end and embed the tang with something like epoxy. Of course when the files are shot, so is the handle. Is there a reasonably priced answer to fitting my files with handles? What do you all do for handles? And how do you keep them attached? My 70+ year old hands would like something a little easier to use. Thanks. Randy

[Grant Aldridge]

Wood handles simply push onto the tang. No epoxy needed. Files only cut on a forward stroke, you should lift it to pull back, there won't be any pulling action to loosen the handle. They don't lend themselves to being swapped between files, but replacing a worn file on the same handle a couple times is no problem

[Bill Dufour]

Old timers drill a hole a little smaller then needed. heat the tang up a little, but not enough to draw the temper, and shove the handle on quickly so it burns an exact fitting socket.
Bill D

[John K Jordan]

After first using handles on files years I hate to use one without, especially the smaller files.

I have some that twist on and stay on well. Others I insert the hand then tap the end of the handle on the workbench to drive the tang tight. I also use a set I bought somewhere with a bunch smaller tapered plastic pieces that stay on the file and a removable handle that fits the plastic pieces. I've also turned wooden handles and drilled a hole sized so the corners of the tang compresses/cuts into the wood.

But the last set of decent files I bought came with a handle on each file - no fuss! I keep those in a wall rack at my mill and metal lathe.

JKJ

[Phil Mueller]

Google “screw on file handle” and you’ll get a lot of low priced options. I believe they are made in sizes based on the length of the file. I think Nicholson also makes push on handles that are reasonably priced.

[Neil Gaskin]

I’ve bought a lot of wooden thread on handles from lee valley. There very reasonable and are removable for reuse.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20136&cat=1,42524,50738

[Frederick Skelly]

I make my own handles because I don't like the price of store-bought around here. YMMV.

Before I had a lathe, I made my handles from a dowell rod cut to length. I varied the dowell diameter depending on the size of file. For the hole, I usually measure the width of the tang about half way along its length, then drill the hole the same size. Then, put the handle on a little, turn it all vertical and rap the handle on my bench to drive the tang into the hole. (Occasionally, this splits the handle. Go slowly.)

I recently saw a description that drilled the hole in 3 stages, to get a sort of step-tapered hole. I havent tried it yet and it might be more bother than you want. But I'll describe it in case it gives you or someone else an idea.
1. Drill a hole a little more narrow than the end of the tang. Drill it a little deeper than the full depth of the tang (so there's clearance).
2. Re-Drill the hole using a bit that is as wide as the tang at its half-way point. Drill it to a depth that is an inch or so less than the full length of the tang.
3. Re-drill again with a bit that is slightly more narrow than the widest part of the tang. Drill to a depth of only an inch or so.
The result of steps 1-3 is a step-tapered hole. Workholding will be key to getting it right.

For many people, this might be more bother than they want and "store bought" is a better solution.

Fred

[Bill Dufour]

a file handle really should have a metal ferule made of pipe or copper tube to prevent splitting. I wonder if heat shrink tubing would be good enough.
Bill D

[John Lanciani]

For smaller files the cork from a Patron bottle* works perfect. Just drill a small pilot hole and push the file into the cork.

*You couldnt pay me to drink the stuff but I have a good friend that is a bartender and I get all the corks I can use and then some.

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/f40d2521-a762-47a5-aa46-a5388c1d4894

[Dean S Walker]

If you have one that is epoxied on just heat it up with a heat gun and drive it off. If you do not have a lathe but a sander and a drill you now have a lathe good enough to make a handle. If you buy them just tap them on a table much like you would do with a socket chisel to keep them seated. I drill the handle with two bits the first one is up from the point about an 1/8 of and inch. measure that and drill a little deeper than needed. then measure up 60% or so and drill to that depth. then heat your tang and drive it in the handle. Use a copper tube or brass or steel to make the ferrel out of and put it on first. if its just a little loose it will not be after you drive the file in it. I do have some that I knocked the handle off of an old screw driver (plastic one) and drove the file in and they work good too.

[Tom M King]

Oregon chainsaw file handles are perfect for small files, and my hands. They're often available pretty cheap on ebay in multiples. They come with a small hole for chainsaw files, but can easily be drilled out for things like small mill files.

[Randall J Cox]

Ok, thanks, lots of good ideas. Randy

[Tom Bender]

I never understood using files without handles. The cheapest push on wooden handles work perfectly. McMaster Carr sells them for under two bucks. Just buy a dozen or two.

[Grant Aldridge]

Oh yeah the cork reminded me, not sure why I didn't mention it before but golf balls make great file handles too! I've got them on my bigger lathe files