Oh what finish to use:

[Jeremiah Jordan]

I am just wondering with all of you small bowl, pen/pencil and bottle stopper turners out there; what finish do you guys think that is the easiest to master, cheapest and lasts the longest? I have tried shellawax, but i have found that it wears off way too soon. I do have a pint of French Polish laying around but kind of afraid to use it. I welcome all of your suggestions.

Jeremiah

[Jim Ketron]

I have been using Rocklers poly gel for the last few bowls. Easy and simple!

[Dave Smith]

Hi Jeremiah,

I use several things. For pens, bottle stoppers and the like, I use home made friction polish. Equal parts of boiled linseed oil(BLO), pale shellac, and denatured alcohol. Make very small batches as it goes a long way. I found that shellac made from flakes works best for me. I also make a polish made with tung oil for light wood.

BLO and CA glue is a little tricky to master but the results can be spectacular on the right piece of wood.

For bowls I have started using Rockler's gel polyurethane almost exclusively. With 43% solids it builds fast and drys fast too. It is pretty much sailor proof.

Learn to rub out lacquer if you want a deep shine on a special piece.

Good luck and stay tuned to SMC for good information from other turners.

Dave Smith

Waiting for glue to dry on pen blanks in Longview, WA.

[John Miliunas]

BLO and CA glue is a little tricky to master but the results can be spectacular on the right piece of wood.

For bowls I have started using Rockler's gel polyurethane almost exclusively. With 43% solids it builds fast and drys fast too. It is pretty much sailor proof.



Dave, not to steal the thread but, if I could ask for just a bit more info? How is the BLO/CA applied & finished? I've done CA for pens, though that's just been 100 proof CA.

On the Rockler's gel, is that like most other gels? Wipe it on and then back off after a few minutes?

Thanks for the info!:) :cool:

[Dave Smith]

I have problems with CA so I use BLO to keep from sticking everything together. I hesitate to try to explain how to do it. I apply BLO to the pen while the lathe is running then add a drop of CA, if I can keep it to one drop, and continue moving the applicator rag very fast. It seems everybody has their favorite method. I am happy if I don't glue something together. Did I tell you about the time I glued my fingers to the lathe bed? Fortunately I had debonder. unfortunately it was on the other side of the shop.

Rockler Gel Polyurethane is not like any gel poly I have tried. It is 43% solids and produces a durable finish. Although it is satin it can be buffed to a nice luster and doesn't look like a plastic coating.

I got Larry Hancock to try it after he saw my bowls in Dallas a couple of years ago. Jennifer Shirley has been using it also. Either I am a good salesman or the stuff is pretty good.

Dave Smith

If I could sell I wouldn't be broke in Longview, WA.

[Raymond Overman]

Just to throw another wrench in the works:

I've had some problems with using BLO/Danish Oil under my CA finishes on pens. I've seen some discoloration and uneven seperation of the CA after a period of a couple of months after using Watco to bring out the grain. I've stopped using oil and clean my finish turned and sanded (to 400) pens with DNA. After the DNA drys I apply a coat of thin CA using a piece of wax paper and let that dry. I go back with the 400 grit and step through micro mesh to 12000. I'll wipe the pen down again with DNA, let it dry, and then go through the process with thick CA until I'm satisfied.

I personally like a plain Watco finish on many of my bowls but have used a spray lacquer with good results.

[John Hart]

BLO/CA....just my 2 cents. My personal favorite method of application is to put BLO on the cloth...then 5 drops of non-gel CA...then immediately apply using quick movement. The CA and BLO seem to gel together almost immediately and the BLO provides a lubricant for smoother application.

[John Miliunas]

Thanks for all the info, gents! I think I may go ahead and try the BLO/CA on a pen or two, as well as order me up some of that gel finish. Sounds like the bomb!:)

As an aside, if you're looking for a real durable finish, this is what I did on a couple pens a few years ago: Once off the lathe, I simply stuck some wire through the barrels and dipped them in some of my witch's brew. (BLO/poly/naphta) Once dry, I chased the barrels with my mill. Not sure about one of the pens but, the other one is Padauk and has been my daily user for no less than 3 years now! Just ever so slight "dulling" at the base of the pen, where I hang on to it. Otherwise, still looks like new!:) :cool:

[John Hart]

It's nice to hear about a finish that has held up so long John. So many of these finishes that I hear about aren't backed up by years of experience. That is a very good tip!!! Also, from what I'm hearing, the BLO/CA won't last as long as your witches brew. But then, I don't know that from experience.:confused:

[John Miliunas]

It's nice to hear about a finish that has held up so long John. So many of these finishes that I hear about aren't backed up by years of experience. That is a very good tip!!! Also, from what I'm hearing, the BLO/CA won't last as long as your witches brew. But then, I don't know that from experience.:confused:

I guess it was more of a "test", than anything else. I think what "should" be used is what each person's recipient prefers. For instance, on pens, there's something to be said for a more natural finish, which after time starts to attain that nice patina from being used. :) OTOH, when selling to the masses and possibly putting some type of warranty on them, a more permanent "shine" may be preferred.:) :cool:

[Jeremiah Jordan]

Thank all of you guys for your opinions. Right now sittingin the library, trying to write a program, I think that I am going to get some of the Roclker Gel Poly. My next questions are

1) How do you guys apply it?

2) Any buffing needed?

3) Hong long will it last?

Thanks again you guys!

Jeremiah Jordan.

[Jim Ketron]

1 All you do is wipe it over the turning, and wipe it back off!
I use paper towels to apply and remove the excess with clean paper towel. I also wear latex gloves and keep a clean towel between the turning and my gloves as I remove with the other hand.

2 you can buff if you want a shiny finish but it is not needed

3 I have not been using it for long but it will be better than any friction finish by a long shot. It seems to be holding up well for me.

[John Miliunas]

1 All you do is wipe it over the turning, and wipe it back off!
I use paper towels to apply and remove the excess with clean paper towel. I also wear latex gloves and keep a clean towel between the turning and my gloves as I remove with the other hand.

2 you can buff if you want a shiny finish but it is not needed

3 I have not been using it for long but it will be better than any friction finish by a long shot. It seems to be holding up well for me.

Good info, Jim! Thanks. If I may just query you a tad more? Single coat application? Typical drying time after wiping off? Lastly, I was always under the impression that gel finishes are a film. Does the Rockler have any penetration attributes (such as helping to pop the grain a bit)? Thanks again for all the great info!:) :cool:

[Jim Ketron]

Good info, Jim! Thanks. If I may just query you a tad more? Single coat application? Typical drying time after wiping off? Lastly, I was always under the impression that gel finishes are a film. Does the Rockler have any penetration attributes (such as helping to pop the grain a bit)? Thanks again for all the great info!:) :cool:

John I apply 2 coats I let the first coat dry at least 18 hrs/ or the next day, and repeat. I rub it in good it does penetrate the wood not quiet as well as a oil but it gives it a reliable finish IMO. and it does pop the grain nice, especially after a good buffing. Not as well as oil again but you are cutting a lot of curing time v/s oil.

[John Miliunas]

John I apply 2 coats I let the first coat dry at least 18 hrs/ or the next day, and repeat. I rub it in good it does penetrate the wood not quiet as well as a oil but it gives it a reliable finish IMO. and it does pop the grain nice, especially after a good buffing. Not as well as oil again but you are cutting a lot of curing time v/s oil.

Bingo!!!! Exactly what I was "fishing" for! Fantastic and I think you just sold me on some! Will need to get it ordered up. Many thanks, Jim!:) :cool: