Which slotted screwdriver tips: Cabinetmaker or Keystone?

[Bruce Walters]

I'm going to pick myself up a nicer set of screwdrivers (probably Wera's). I'm curious if people prefer Keystone or Cabinetmaker profile for the slotted screwdrivers? Keystones seem like they'd be stronger, but I can see the Cabinetmakers being better for some recessed situations.

[Jim Becker]

I'm looking forward to the answers from folks, Bruce...I can't even remember the last time I used a slotted screwdriver for anything other than prying something apart. LOL Welcome (back) to SMC!

[Stan Coryell]

Buy both! Just kidding. I like Stanley 100's. If I was getting a set of Wera's, I think I'd get the cabinet tip. Think precision, not strength. I'm doubt you'll have a issue with them twisting.

Stan

[Davis Young]

My preference is to avoid slotted screws at all cost. But if you foresee using counterbored slotted screws, then get the cabinetmaker tips.

[Van Huskey]

I have several sets of Wera screwdrivers and use their diamond bits. I have all keystone drives and honestly never wanted for the cabinet bits. BTW I have never heard them called cabinetmakers bits just cabinet bits and the cabinet it comes from is radio cabinets back in the day. While I have most of the "standard" sizes of slotted Wera screwdrivers in the Kraftform Stainless, 300, 900 and 100 VDE series I usually only use slotted for electrical work and occasionally the 900 series demo versions.

BTW Amazon.de (German) is an excellent source for Wera socket sets, screwdrivers and bits. The only place I do better is Zoro when I get a 20% or 25% off coupon. Sometimes Chad's Toolbox is good during the holidays but you need to sign up just like Zoro. Anyone that does not shop Zoro for tools is missing out. If you sign up and buy from them they send 20-25% off coupons on a regular basis. I buy tons of stuff from them when I get 25% coupons, including a Tormek and jigs, lots of Starrett stuff, Wera (some is still cheaper on Amazon.de mostly ratchets/socket sets and the bit sets), Knipex and lots of other high-end handtools.


One of my favorite items they have is the Kraftform Kompakt 25 Screwdriver. The bits can be used in any 1/4" drill driver and so can the bayonet when it is removed. The Rapidaptor is also very cool.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYUj62ByHhw

[Rod Sheridan]

I always buy cabinet tipped slot screwdrivers because the only thing I use slotted screwdrivers for is electrical stuff like terminal blocks.......Rod.

[Bill Dufour]

I have a few smaller keystone screwdrivers that I ground the sides off so they fit into a electrical breaker screws which are often recessed into a plastic guard. Based on that get keystone style and if the need ever arises grind the side down. Grinding takes maybe a minute or two if you want it to be nice and smooth with round overs.
The reason for the keystone design is that if you need to grind the tip off, as it wears, the width increases correctly so the new tip thickness matches the screws with a thicker slot.
Bill D

[johnny means]

Does your finish come in plastic or metal cans?

[Van Huskey]

Does your finish come in plastic or metal cans?

The most salient and concise reply in the thread!

It occurred to me I had misspoken earlier in the thread when I said I had all keystone tips, this is not correct as all my VDE screwdrivers are obviously cabinet tips.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a few smaller keystone screwdrivers that I ground the sides off so they fit into a electrical breaker screws which are often recessed into a plastic guard. Based on that get keystone style and if the need ever arises grind the side down. Grinding takes maybe a minute or two if you want it to be nice and smooth with round overs.
The reason for the keystone design is that if you need to grind the tip off, as it wears, the width increases correctly so the new tip thickness matches the screws with a thicker slot.
Bill D
That's interesting about thickening and widening if you grind the tip back. I always thought keystones were made that way so you could put a crescent wrench on the flat part and use that the turn the driver while you put pressure downward on the top of the driver. At least I've used them that way. Some of my older big screwdrivers have square shanks specifically (I think, and I was told by an older machinist) so you can put a wrench on the shank.

You can't do that with cabinet screwdrivers, especially if they have a round shank.

Mike

[Van Huskey]

Speaking of wrenching screwdrivers Wera's 900 series Chisel Drivers have a large hexagonal bolster for just that purpose. They are one of the few slotted screwdrivers built for the way a lot of people use them...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAey3z5qEXg

[John K Jordan]

For relatively small screws? My favorite screwdrivers are made for gunsmiths. I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TABWYU This set also has some other tools like soft brass punches good for working on guns.

The flats on the tips are ground parallel so the right size of screwdriver holds better and less likely to slip. Many screws on a gun are slotted and gunsmith does not even want the screwdriver to slip and mar the gun. I don't know if they come in larger sizes but I've made my own similar tips on a standard screwdriver by grinding the flats on parallel.

JKJ

[Bruce Walters]

Lots of great wisdom shared - thanks for the insights!

I think I'm going to get the cabinet tips and if needed, augment with a 900 series or two.

[William Adams]

I recently tried to put together something of a survey of hardware fastener sizes and screwdriver sizes:

https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Tools:_Screwdriver#Sizes_.28Imperial.29

largest ones got up to 1.375″ diameter/width and 0.149″ thick.

The chisel/keystone shape seems to've been a conscious decision to allow a limited number of screwdrivers (typically 9) to fit a wider variety of hardware sizes (#1--30)

[Brett Luna]

For relatively small screws? My favorite screwdrivers are made for gunsmiths.

I have a set of the Grace woodworking screwdrivers that work well for me. But when I need a really precise fit, I go to the Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits. The largest in my kit are 0.360" wide, in six thicknesses.

[Roger Feeley]

To me, the problem isn't the screwdriver but the screws. I work with old furniture from time to time and the old screw slots were nice and deep and pretty much any screwdriver would be effective. These days, it seems that the slots aren't as deep and the screw alloy is softer leading to the driver slipping out. All due respect the the thread but aren't you guys trying to solve the problem of the screws by tweaking the drivers?

For things that don't show, my preference is square drive screws or torx. But they are a bit off-putting if the head is visible. I've been known to sort of pre-thread a screw with a square drive, remove that screw and in a slotted screw using a lubricant so it goes in easy.

[Curt Harms]

Roger brings up a good point. Square drive or torx screws really don't look good in furniture or cabinetry when they're exposed, neither do Phillips IMO so slotted drivers are required. Threading with a power driven screw first then replace with a nice looking slotted screw seems like a good way to go.