How to cut this edge detail?

[Dave Cav]

This is the top edge detail of an Ikea dresser that's part of a bedroom set. It's older Ikea stuff that is actually made of real wood and of pretty good quality. I need to make a top shelf unit for the dresser, and need to reproduce this profile if possible. The stock is about 15/16, the beads are around 3/16 and the rabbet between the beads is 1/2". I need to go around the corner as shown in the picture, and could use a template. So how would I do it? Grind a custom shaper knife and use a corner template and rub collar? I was actually hoping for something a little less involved than that if possible.

After some more thought I'm thinking a piloted corner beading bit (Amana 54163)
https://www.amanatool.com/54163-carbide ... shank.html
could be used to cut the beads from the top and bottom. After the beads were cut the rabbet could be cut using a 1/2" rabbeting bit and the proper sized pilot with the pilot riding on one of the beads.

396703

[Jim Becker]

Beading bit along the edges first and then relieve the field in the middle with a straight cutter.

[Dave Cav]

I ordered the Amana bit so I'll give that a try. Thanks

[Paul Girouard]

That’s going to be a tough cut, especially with the round corners! Good luck.

[Rick Whitehead]

Yes, I think you can do it with that Amana bit. Cut the rabbet first, and then use the beading bit from the top and then the bottom.
Rick

[Derek Cohen]

I did this with a hand (plough) plane ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallPlowasaBeadingPlane_html_1eda653f.jpg


... but this does not count! :)

With a router I would do exactly as Jim suggested ..


Beading bit along the edges first and then relieve the field in the middle with a straight cutter.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Morgan]

I did this with a hand (plough) plane ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallPlowasaBeadingPlane_html_1eda653f.jpg


... but this does not count! :)

With a router I would do exactly as Jim suggested ..



Regards from Perth

Derek


Jim & Derek, can you explain how you would relieve the field around the corner with a straight bit?

[Derek Cohen]

Jim, when you cut the bead on one side of the board, it will leave a quirk ...

https://vintagewoodies.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/sidebead.jpg (https://vintagewoodies.wordpress.com/tag/bead-profiles/)
Cut the other side in the same way. This also leaves a quirk.

Now you can remove the waste between the quirks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John TenEyck]

Yeah, except you can't go around the corners with a straight bit, you would need a piloted rabbet bit narrower than the center section to be removed, unless you can find one the perfect width. The bearing would ride on the beads, first one side then the other.

John

[Derek Cohen]

Yeah, except you can't go around the corners with a straight bit, you would need a piloted rabbet bit narrower than the center section to be removed, unless you can find one the perfect width. The bearing would ride on the beads, first one side then the other.

John

John .. right. So do the centre first.

EDIT: On second thoughts, use a grooving bit in a router table to remove the centre. Easy peasy.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71boyU-u5zL._SX466_.jpg (https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14481-Slotting-Grooving-Router/dp/B00KZM1UE8)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John TenEyck]

John .. right. So do the centre first.

Regards from Perth

Derek


That makes the most sense to me but you will likely have to upsize the bearing on the beading bit to do it that way.

John

[Jim Becker]

Feather boards are going to be critical for this operation, especially when removing the waste between the radiused edges.

[Alan Marchbanks]

How about using a pattern to guide the bearing around the corners?

[Paul Girouard]

Cut the beads first using the guide bearing.

Cut the groove or center out last by putting the rabbeting bit in a router table , you’d have to run it twice flipping the top over so you’d set the bit the proper height to come into the bead cuts.

You’d have the to the corner carefully But IF you use a sacrifal fence that you plunged into the rabbit bit such that only the cutter was sticking out of the fence you’d have a zero clearance fence and direct bearing to run the top around the round corners.

[Dave Cav]

Cut the beads first using the guide bearing.

Cut the groove or center out last by putting the rabbeting bit in a router table , you’d have to run it twice flipping the top over so you’d set the bit the proper height to come into the bead cuts.

You’d have the to the corner carefully But IF you use a sacrifal fence that you plunged into the rabbit bit such that only the cutter was sticking out of the fence you’d have a zero clearance fence and direct bearing to run the top around the round corners.

Thanks, Paul; I was going to use a variation of your suggestion but hadn't thought about a zero clearance fence. That's a good idea I'll try. I also have a lot of different sized pilot bearings (and a lathe to cut more if need be) so I could cut the rabbet in stages if need be.

In any event I'll be milling lots of extra stock for practice.

[Dave Cav]

I did this with a hand (plough) plane ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallPlowasaBeadingPlane_html_1eda653f.jpg


... but this does not count! :)

With a router I would do exactly as Jim suggested ..



Regards from Perth

Derek


Very nice Derek. My first thought was a plow plane or even a scratch stock, after wasting out the groove in the center, but I couldn't figure out how to do the corners. The end grain might be a bit of a problem, too. And, of course, my lack of a plow plane is an impediment as well.

[Paul Girouard]

Thanks, Paul; I was going to use a variation of your suggestion but hadn't thought about a zero clearance fence. That's a good idea I'll try. I also have a lot of different sized pilot bearings (and a lathe to cut more if need be) so I could cut the rabbet in stages if need be.

In any event I'll be milling lots of extra stock for practice.

I’m not sure you can get a rabbeting bit wide enough to accomplish the zero clearance fence , you might need a three wing slot cutter which most likely means you’d need to raise the bit and make multiple passes to get the full width of the groove.

[Dave Cav]

I’m not sure you can get a rabbeting bit wide enough to accomplish the zero clearance fence , you might need a three wing slot cutter which most likely means you’d need to raise the bit and make multiple passes to get the full width of the groove.

The groove is about 1/2". I do have a stackable 3 wing slot cutter that might work. I also have a much larger (in diameter) 1/4" shaper rabbeting cutter that almost certainly will work with a zero clearance fence on the shaper.

[Michael Costa]

This might do the trick.396787

[Jared Sankovich]

Do you have a quirk bead cutter for your shaper?

[Dave Cav]

Do you have a quirk bead cutter for your shaper?

No, but I'll have one from Amana for my router table by Monday or Tuesday.

[Jeff Duncan]

Hmmmm, looks similar to these parts I made last year. I used a rabbeting bit and appropriately sized bearing to clear the inner field and then cut the beads with Rockler beading bit #91826. I did need to slightly "modify" the beading bit for my purposes.... but a few minutes of careful time on the bench grinder got me where I needed to be;)

I needed the bearings as my parts were curved, so no reason you should't be able to do the same on your rounded corners.

good luck,
JeffD