Flooring question- garage/concrete area

[Matt Lau]

Hi Creekers,

I've been inspired by Alexander's thread to get back to neandering.
There's a space in the garage where I can set up a small workbench and make sawdust.

However, the area has a hard concrete floor.

Do you guys recommend some sort of flooring?
I'm thinking of putting in some type of foam or cork tiles, so it's easier on the feet (and any chisels that fall off the bench).

[David Eisenhauer]

With a concrete floor in my shop, I have a death fear of bumping or rolling a chisel or steel square off my bench. I have some of those interlocking-piece rubber mat sections to help ease the feet/legs/back in places of my shop but cannot use them at my bench where I do lots of heavier planning because the mats slip when I lean into the plane. I have not tried to tape them down or something similar because I like to move them for sweeping up. When I win the lottery, I will have hardwood flooring laid over my slab. And I mean the expensive, pretty looking stuff too.

[Andrew Zetts]

Interlocking foam tiles work pretty great, are affordable and can allow you greater flexibility with regards to floor plan/other uses around the house. Definitely enough to deaden a plane's fall, but it's not going to stop a direct hit from a chisel from penetrating through.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’ve been thinking of replacing my rug with plywood. Just had about a month long episode of allergies/colds and so I think it’s reached the point where it’s time to change it. Thinking to use something neat but easy like Baltic birch ply.

[Paul F Franklin]

In addition to the interlocking foam tiles, you can also get interlocking rubber tiles sold for garage floors or workout areas. They are thinner but heavier and more durable than the foam (and more expensive). I think they might stay put better than the light foam tiles, especially if you put your bench and stationary tools on top of them. Probably not as sharp-edge friendly as the foam, but still way better than concrete.

[Richard Verwoest]

Have a look at 3/4 inch stall mats sold by Tractor Supply.

Richard

[John K Jordan]

I came close to putting T&G wood flooring in my shop. I have a bunch of rough-sawn cherry boards in the barn I sawed years ago that I'll probably never use for anything else. I never did it but still think it would be nice - I worked in a shop in Berea KY with wood floors and I liked those. After all the work to build the shop the thought of milling it all and and installing it made me tired, though. I bought a number of rubber anti-fatigue mats on sale and use them at the lathe, bandsaw, etc.

About the stall mat idea. I bought dozens for in and around the barn. They are a lot harder/denser than the anti-fatigue mats so I wonder if they would help as much. Probably better than standing on concrete, though. At over $40 a piece for 4x6 they are about the same cost as the softer mats. Can be cut with a utility knife but can be tricky.

JKJ

[Matt Lau]

I was just going to buy something from Amazon.
I was either going to go with playroom interlocking tiles in cheery primary colors (to avoid losing that one piece of wood during a glueup),
or going with natural cork...because it's warm and natural looking.

Knowing me, I'll probably go with the kiddy playroom look.
It's cheaper and easier to clean.

[Bob Andre]

I installed Tractor Supply stall mats last year. We have had them in our horse barn for years and they wear well. In my shop they offer a great cushion for feet and tools. They are thick, heavy, and priced right. They don't move around enough to be a problem and I'm glad I installed them around my bench. Drop one plane or chisel and you will have paid for them.

[John K Jordan]

I installed Tractor Supply stall mats last year. We have had them in our horse barn for years and they wear well. In my shop they offer a great cushion for feet and tools. They are thick, heavy, and priced right. They don't move around enough to be a problem and I'm glad I installed them around my bench. Drop one plane or chisel and you will have paid for them.

Bob, have you ever used them outside? They stay in place in the stalls but I like to put one outside on the ground at each stall exit. The problem is they will scoot around, especially on a slight slope. I found a tip once that really works. I bought some huge galvanized nails from Home Depot, maybe a foot long and 1/2" in diameter, and some washers to fit. I drive one through the mat and into the ground at each of the two corners closest to the barn. They are still in place after years of horses, goats, mini donkeys, and llamas. I put them under outdoor hay racks too for easier cleaning. Sometimes I find them cheaper at the local farmer's co-op.

JKJ

[Brandon Speaks]

I would not mind a hard wood floor in my shop, on the other hand I have not had any real issue with either fatigue from standing on concrete or from dropping tools. If I felt it was an issue and could not do the wood flooring I would do the stall mats.

[Al Weber]

I installed some cheap laminate flooring with the thin foam layer over plastic sheeting in my walk out basement shop. I looked at a lot of options but in the final analysis, it made more sense to go that way. Looked at the thick rubber garage tiles but the cost was prohibitive. It isn't the most elegant flooring but it serves its purpose in my case. It is easily removed if the next owner doesn't like it and I'm not out a bundle.

[Bob Andre]

John your spike idea sounds good. We have stall mats in our run in and they move a bit. Project for warmer weather. Sorry to move away from the in shop aspect, but good information.
Bob

[David Dalzell]

Tack suppliers (horses) sell heavy duty rubber mats for use in horse stalls.They are tough, resilient, provide good solid footing, don't slip/slide around, good on the feet, and are reasonably priced. Cheaper than an equivalent mat sold in woodworker stores or on-line woodworking sites. Several students at the Krenov woodworking school bought these during their time there. Everyone loved them.

[John K Jordan]

John your spike idea sounds good. We have stall mats in our run in and they move a bit. Project for warmer weather. Sorry to move away from the in shop aspect, but good information.
Bob

Who knows, maybe someone's shop has a dirt floor on. On a slope. Out in the rain.

Another thing some might benefit from, for shop use or whatever, is how to move the stall mats. They are HEAVY and awkward with no good way to grip them. Some people have pinched them with big vice grips for sliding around. Usually two people are needed, or one Hulk. I struggled moving a bunch of them from the truck and into and around the barn until I read this on a horse lover's blog:

Get a length of rope a little longer than twice the width a mat, maybe 10' or so. When the mat is on the ground with the side up that you want up, fold it in half so the short 4' sides are touching, making kind of a 3'x4' taco. Put the rope through the "tunnel" at the bend. Tie the ends of the rope into a loop. (I tied big snaps on the ends to give some weight to throw through the tunnel and quickly make a loop.) Now it is easy to pull on the rope and the folded mat will easily slide along the ground to the new location. It's still a struggle to get through doors less than 4' wide but I eventually got better at that.

Another thing is cutting them. I've tried several methods but what works best for me is a standard utility knife. I mark with a white grease pencil and make one cut with a straightedge. The utility knife won't penetrate very deep even with a lot of force. Then I put a length of 2x lumber under the cut line and press down on the sides to force the cut open a bit. Multiple cuts can then cut all the way through.

There are various surfaces on these mats, I've bought some "smooth" on both sides, some with a slightly raised pattern on one side, and some with a bunch of diagonal grooves molded into one side. If the mats have the diagonal grooves, that side goes down, at least when used with horses. A friend installed them with the grooves up thinking that would provide better traction. What happened instead was with use the rubber started breaking off in strips causing a problem. I'm guessing someone thought they could save money manufacturing them with the grooves to use a little less rubber for each mat.

To me, stall mats look like they are made from recycled auto/truck tires. They have a rubber strong smell but maybe it goes away after a while. With everything else in the barn stall, I can't smell the mats. :)

JKJ

[Bob Andre]

I've had no problem cutting them with a jigsaw/sabersaw and relatively fine tooth blade. Nice to be able to notch around things.

[Pat Barry]

I've had concrete floor forever and never had a disaster. I do have a soft rubber pad to stand on that is more comfortable than cold concrete and this helps immensely in the winter months. I would not spend money on anything fancy

[Dean Arthur]

Matt, my shop has an uneven, sloped concrete floor - pretty much the worst flooring for woodworking. After dropping a chisel (always blade first) and denting my spokeshave I just amazon'ed one of these 3' x 12' anti-fatigue mats and laid it across my bench and sharpening area - where 95% of the action happens in the shop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SJZE9A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- NORMAL --
Doesn't slip, is light enough to move around, is delivered to your door, and the difference from standing on regular concrete is dramatic. It's already saved several of my tools too. Highly recommended and easy. The benefit of having a concrete floor is you'll insist on having a wooden floor if and when you ever build a new shop.

[John K Jordan]

I've had no problem cutting them with a jigsaw/sabersaw and relatively fine tooth blade. Nice to be able to notch around things.

If this refers to the stall mats, what blade did you use? I tried several and they bogged down and barely cut. Maybe my mats are different.

[Richard Verwoest]

I used a skill saw with a straight edge and an old rip blade. Though I did need to "open" the kerf as I went along.

Richard

[Bob Andre]

Unfortunately can't recall what blade I used, but I had to notch around some machines and it went well. I would start out with a wood medium coarse blade. It may have been the type of rubber in the mat as in the past cutting them was not fun. I did end up with my bandsaw on top of the mat and it has been sufficiently stable. I also switched to Dansko shoes a few years ago and they helped a lot with the concrete floor.

[steven c newman]

Although the Dungeon Shop has a concrete floor ( it IS a basement..) there is a very good reason for not putting down mats or rugs......after the lot of rain, I have the Dungeon Creek going across the floor, heading for the one floor drain....as long as I keep the "creek bed" clear, and the drain free of junk....I merely wait out the water, then go back to work. Soggy rugs and matts stink, and become moldy...not something I want in the basement, or the house. Half the woodworking I do, I simply sit down on the shop stool....saves the legs a bit.

[William Fretwell]

My shop has a heated concrete floor (luxury I know!) so I resist covering the floor and racks are on feet or wheels to allow air movement. I relied on good footware safety boots but after removing the corner of a Japanese chisel I bought a heavy rubber mat 4*8’ about 1/4” thick. The relief to the legs is noticeable!
A sprung wooden floor is the ideal answer for your joints, noise absorption, floor insulation but not damp issues.

[John K Jordan]

...I relied on good footware safety boots but after removing the corner of a Japanese chisel I bought a heavy rubber mat 4*8’ about 1/4” thick. The relief to the legs is noticeable! ...

On a similar note, I found the footwear to be the most important thing. I use to have intense heel pain from plantar fasciitis which required periodic medical attention including cortizone shots. When a friend introduced me to Tellec footwear I tried them and have been wearing them almost every day since. With those plus one simple stretch on occasion I haven't had any foot pain in a bunch of years. I wear them nearly all day, around the farm, to church, in the shop. What I buy are sort of closed-toe sandels, somewhat like Clogs but much spongier. Where at one time I had to sit after an hour of standing and walking, herding peacocks, feeding horses, I can now stand even on concrete for most of the day, walking for breaks and sitting for meals and this silly computer. I switch to other shoes/boots for chainsawing and horseback riding or going to weddings/funerals.

I usually buy black. https://www.amazon.com/Telic-Unisex-Dream-Fresh-Cranberry/dp/B07GC67F1K

JKJ