Logo engrave solidworks --> trotec

[Andrew Romanousky]

New to the forum. Hello all :) I have found some helpful information on this site but nothing that answers a very specific requirement of mine.

I am brand new to lasers and know very little about them. I own a small business operating a machine/fab shop. Our products are generally made from aluminum and typically have Type II anodize finish. We need to mark them with our logo and currently use an outside vendor for this process.

Just ordered a Trotec speedy 360/80watt C02 machine. Should be delivered in a week.

I am a Solidworks/Autocad guy with no experience with adobe photoshop or Corel or anything like that (prefer to keep it that way). The models of my products have the logo present as a sketch and "CUT" feature in Solidworks. Ideally, I would machine a fixture plate that can be laid on the laser bed so that a multitude of parts could be laid out very quickly and accurately and then use the Assembly drawing of this fixture to actually "print" the markings.

Does this sound possible? Anyone interested in sharing details on how to do this? Maybe create a new layer within the drawing and use the "hatch" tool to fill the logo outlines with solid color and then somehow ONLY print that layer?

I'll take some screen shots this evening to try and better explain requirements.

[Andrew Romanousky]

So here are some pics.
1. Product in Solidworks
2. Array of product on a machined aluminum fixture plate
3. machined fixture plate measures 24" x 12" so I made a custom sheet size in solidworks with those same dimensions and located the plate in the upper left corner. Then I created a new "Layer" called ENGRAVE and filled the logo in solid RED color using the hatch tool.
4. Just a close up of what I did in the above step.

So am I on the track? Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mbfHQ33/0/M/i-mbfHQ33-M.jpg (https://romanousky.smugmug.com/Business/Vanasche-Motorsports/690701-PROUDCTS/Fuel-Filler-Adapter-for-701/n-682m4W/i-mbfHQ33/A)


https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JS2Jv4C/0/M/i-JS2Jv4C-M.jpg (https://romanousky.smugmug.com/Business/Vanasche-Motorsports/690701-PROUDCTS/Fuel-Filler-Adapter-for-701/n-682m4W/i-JS2Jv4C/A)


https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JQQDrG7/0/M/i-JQQDrG7-M.jpg (https://romanousky.smugmug.com/Business/Vanasche-Motorsports/690701-PROUDCTS/Fuel-Filler-Adapter-for-701/n-682m4W/i-JQQDrG7/A)


https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vCkJSbB/0/M/i-vCkJSbB-M.jpg (https://romanousky.smugmug.com/Business/Vanasche-Motorsports/690701-PROUDCTS/Fuel-Filler-Adapter-for-701/n-682m4W/i-vCkJSbB/A)

[Trey Tull]

I can’t help with solidworks to engraving but just wanted to point out that you can’t engrave/mark metal with a CO2. You need a fiber laser or you will have to spray them with Cermark or paint/pc and remove the coating.

[Darren Wilson]

I can’t help with solidworks to engraving but just wanted to point out that you can’t engrave/mark metal with a CO2. You need a fiber laser or you will have to spray them with Cermark or paint/pc and remove the coating.
Think the OP said they have type II ano finish, which should mark nicely with CO2

[Dave Garrett]

it will mark VERY nicely. I have the same exact machine and anodized aluminum is probably the best material for fine detailed engraving. Solid Works is a program I dont have any experience with but surely what you need to do is possible. For areas to engrave fill with solid (rgb)black and red (hairline) is reserved for cutting (useless for aluminum). You don't need to duplicate them on a plate in solidworks, just make one and Print to job control where the object can be duplicated out and saved to a plate. Hope that helps.

[Gary Hair]

That would be a very simple job using Corel to create a template and a fixture using acrylic, no need to machine one out of aluminum. Corel has a feature called step and repeat that makes tasks like this extremely simple and very quick. I could create the template and fixture in just a couple of minutes and then cut it out of acrylic in about 3-4 minutes - total setup would be no more than 10 minutes and you would be ready to make parts!


New to the forum. Hello all :) I have found some helpful information on this site but nothing that answers a very specific requirement of mine.

I am brand new to lasers and know very little about them. I own a small business operating a machine/fab shop. Our products are generally made from aluminum and typically have Type II anodize finish. We need to mark them with our logo and currently use an outside vendor for this process.

Just ordered a Trotec speedy 360/80watt C02 machine. Should be delivered in a week.

I am a Solidworks/Autocad guy with no experience with adobe photoshop or Corel or anything like that (prefer to keep it that way). The models of my products have the logo present as a sketch and "CUT" feature in Solidworks. Ideally, I would machine a fixture plate that can be laid on the laser bed so that a multitude of parts could be laid out very quickly and accurately and then use the Assembly drawing of this fixture to actually "print" the markings.

Does this sound possible? Anyone interested in sharing details on how to do this? Maybe create a new layer within the drawing and use the "hatch" tool to fill the logo outlines with solid color and then somehow ONLY print that layer?

I'll take some screen shots this evening to try and better explain requirements.

[Bill George]

I would guess before ordering a $30,000 machine he would have had a Sample done first. If he designs in Solidworks would not the print driver work in it or he could Export to a DXF.

[Gary Hair]

I would never assume that mostly because I've seen it many times where someone posts about their shiny new machine that won't do what they want it to do because they didn't do any research or were given a sales pitch full of half-truths. I don't know if Solidwords can print to JobControl like you can from Corel, it's likely that it may work but with strange inconsistencies that don't happen with Corel. Exporting to a dxf would work as well but why add in a step when the drawing could be done in Corel in minutes (single-digit minutes).


I would guess before ordering a $30,000 machine he would have had a Sample done first. If he designs in Solidworks would not the print driver work in it or he could Export to a DXF.

[Mike Null]

Gary has it right. Corel is easy and an acrylic material is perfect for the jig. Here I used 1/4" acrylic, taped 1" ply wood risers to the bottom and ran several thousand whiskey bottle caps, as shown. Every one was perfect. There were two sizes, thus the different holes sizes.

396599

[Justen Harness]

Gary has it right. Corel is easy and an acrylic material is perfect for the jig. Here I used 1/4" acrylic, taped 1" ply wood risers to the bottom and ran several thousand whiskey bottle caps, as shown. Every one was perfect. There were two sizes, thus the different holes sizes.

396599

Off topic here, but I've had my new Trotec Speedy 400 80W for a few weeks now, figured out quite a bit on my own, have done some jobs already, BUT, I'm struggling with jig layout. Is there any step by step info out there or simplifed explanations on laying out a jig, putting the artwork on it, and aligning the laser to a starting point? I'm not sure why, but I'm making it harder than it probably is. Also, using and understanding plates in JC?

[Andrew Romanousky]

it will mark VERY nicely. I have the same exact machine and anodized aluminum is probably the best material for fine detailed engraving. Solid Works is a program I dont have any experience with but surely what you need to do is possible. For areas to engrave fill with solid (rgb)black and red (hairline) is reserved for cutting (useless for aluminum). You don't need to duplicate them on a plate in solidworks, just make one and Print to job control where the object can be duplicated out and saved to a plate. Hope that helps.

Thank you Dave. My vendor uses the same machine and the quality of work is great. I just need to learn to duplicate it.

The duplication in solidworks is really so I can create the fixture plate. You can't see it but there are many different parts that layup in different ways on the same plate all using press fit dowel pins for location. I can change from one configuration to another and different product arrays show up and drawings are automatically created. It is super fast and easy. I'm trying to explain something you know nothing about as you are trying to explain an easy way of doing something I know nothing about :) The good news is that it will give me more information to ask the Trotec guy that is coming to install/setup the machine.

[Andrew Romanousky]

That would be a very simple job using Corel to create a template and a fixture using acrylic, no need to machine one out of aluminum. Corel has a feature called step and repeat that makes tasks like this extremely simple and very quick. I could create the template and fixture in just a couple of minutes and then cut it out of acrylic in about 3-4 minutes - total setup would be no more than 10 minutes and you would be ready to make parts!

Appreciate the suggestion Gary. I like the acrylic idea....looks cool!! I'll look into this but please understand acrylic is completely out of my wheelhouse. Wouldn't know where to buy it let alone how to cut it. I've got Mic 6 laying all over the place and machining this fixture would take sub 10 minutes. Not saying it's a better way to do it but for me it is what we are setup for and would cost me very little time which is what is scarce at the moment.

I could purchase Corel but regardless howquickly some of you could do this it's going to take me much longer in a newprogram. I already have to put the engraving on the parts in solidworks for proper scale/location so adding Corel would be an additional step regardless.....creating the arrays and drawings in solidworks takes literallyseconds of time. Next step to drawing is only a minute or two.

Everything we do is done in Solidworks. However, sounds likeall of you guys use Corel, so maybe it would be of some value using the sametools as the laser community is using.

[Bert Kemp]

1/4" acrylic is sold at the big box store or online many places cut it with the laser easy pz.

[Ross Moshinsky]

Your work flow should be:

Solidworks. Flatten the artwork. Export as an EPS file.

Bring into graphics program of choice (Corel, Illustrator or Inkscape are the most popular)

Now setup your files for engraving including making sure the fill is right and setting the cut colors for vectoring.

Do a few tests to make sure your cut will fit. Often a small offset is required. Material can be anything from acrylic to MDF to masonite.

Once you have the fit right, throw in your sheet good. Cut up the jig. Then do an engraving test at the bottom corner (will show the most error). Once everything is good. Run the job.

Trying to do this all in Solidworks is probably possible but is likely making your life more complicated. I can tell you from first hand experience it's very typical to bring 3D models and break them down and do the actual machine programing in other programs like Illustrator, Corel, or Inkscape.

[Gary Hair]

Off topic here, but I've had my new Trotec Speedy 400 80W for a few weeks now, figured out quite a bit on my own, have done some jobs already, BUT, I'm struggling with jig layout. Is there any step by step info out there or simplifed explanations on laying out a jig, putting the artwork on it, and aligning the laser to a starting point? I'm not sure why, but I'm making it harder than it probably is. Also, using and understanding plates in JC?

Fixtures are easy, once you know the basics and how to apply it to your specific needs. Plates are also fairly easy, but again, depending on your needs.
Fixtures will vary depending on what it is you are engraving, how many pieces at a time, and how often you do that part/design. The picture in Mike's post is a perfect example of a simple fixture to engrave lots of small parts.

If you want to call me it would be much easier to explain over the phone and maybe exchanging a drawing back and forth vs posting here. Message me if you like and I'll give you my number.

[Kev Williams]

you absolutely do NOT want to make a laser engraving jig with a '3rd party' machine. As accurate as Trotecs or any other laser may be, a matrix jig made on a CNC machine simply won't match up to the laser; you WILL have locate the coordinates of every machined pocket to match the machine.

Ergo, the laser that will engrave the parts should make the jig; everything WILL line up :)

I do this with batches of watches to be cermarked, just lay out a staggered matrix that works, make a circle the size of the crystal, put the engraving where it goes on the watch within the circle, tape some thin cardboard on the laser table, cut the 20 or whatever holes for the watches, apply cermark, put the watches in the holes, send the job, press start and go have lunch. I've never had a mis-alignment...

[Jerome Stanek]

you absolutely do NOT want to make a laser engraving jig with a '3rd party' machine. As accurate as Trotecs or any other laser may be, a matrix jig made on a CNC machine simply won't match up to the laser; you WILL have locate the coordinates of every machined pocket to match the machine.

Ergo, the laser that will engrave the parts should make the jig; everything WILL line up :)

I do this with batches of watches to be cermarked, just lay out a staggered matrix that works, make a circle the size of the crystal, put the engraving where it goes on the watch within the circle, tape some thin cardboard on the laser table, cut the 20 or whatever holes for the watches, apply cermark, put the watches in the holes, send the job, press start and go have lunch. I've never had a mis-alignment...

I have made several jigs on my CNC to use on my laser and they all work great.

[Kev Williams]

Then you're one of the lucky ones. The only 2 machines I can trust to sync with each other are my Gravo IS machines. And even then 0/0 home alignment and squaring come into play, depending on the job. If you cut the jig with the same machine that will use it, most variables, aren't...

[Gary Hair]

I have made several jigs on my CNC to use on my laser and they all work great.

Same here. I have a customer that made several fixtures for their parts to be used in my Trotec. One held 100 parts and with the upper left and lower right aligned in Corel it lasered the rest perfectly.

[Brennan Sheremeto]

I'm first and foremost a solidworks guy, corel/inkscape only because I have to for the laser.

Do a 1:1 sheet of your drawing to your jig size, hide all of the stuff you don't want to engrave (this would actually be easier if you had a configuration that was just the logo as extruded bodies, solidworks will yell at you but should stay in the right place from previous mates) do a solid hatch in black and save it as a PDF.

you should be able to open that in whatever your PDF program is and do your print from there. You might be able to print from solidworks directly but I don't have a trotec so I'm not sure.

[Bert Kemp]

wow so many do it this way or this way yikes it must be so confusing to a new guy. I have to agree with Kev the easiest way and the way with less chance of mistakes is to cut the jig with the laser. Sure he's new but hey its not that hard. I'm just a hobbyist but I make jigs all the time for dog tags I do for Veterans urns. I just layout a bunch of tag shapes cut the holes put the tags in the holes and engrave all the names it fast and easy.

[Bob Loesch]

I use Solidworks for my CNC work and soon with my 80W laser. If you made a jig with precise spacings and can index the laser correctly, you should be able to make an array of your logo in SW to match the parts in the jig. Then export the file as a DXF and you should be able to import it into either RDWorks or LightBurn. When I belonged to an OpenWorks studio, this is what I did.

[John Lifer]

Nice Bob, but Trotec has their own print driver. Not rdworks, or lightburn for Chinese stuff like we have. I'd make my jigs with the laser not with another program and machine. But I wouldn't be buying an expensive laser without knowing more about it either. Sounds like a company I used to work for.

Hope you have a bunch of seconds to test on..... Anodized aluminum is pretty easy to get right though

[Andrew Romanousky]

I'll post a quick update here. Trotec guy came out on Monday, we setup the machine, and started running my desperately needed production runs ASAP. Also learned how to use the Rotary before the day was out.

Turns out this is SUPER easy. I was right on track at the beginning of this post.

First, I made the jigs cut on my CNC machine from UHMW before the trotec guy even showed up hoping I was on the right track. Then I just created a custom sheet size (same size as jig plate), justified the model in upper left corner, used solid hatch tool to fill in the logo, then hide ALL of the models and you are left with the hatch marks on the sheet. THEN PRINT DIRECTLY TO JOBCONTROL FROM SOLIDWORKS.

I can swap the plastic jigs out and print different groups of parts in a matter of seconds.

Jigs were perfect, engraving locations were perfect, didn't scrap a single part and made ZERO adjustments. Maybe I was lucky but we ran through 3 different jigs are all were perfect. I'll post some pics later. Also, the markings are WAY nicer/cleaner than what my vendor had been providing.