Advice on choice of wood

[Rob Blaustein]

I'm in the process of designing a bathroom vanity that I plan to build soon, and I need some advice choosing wood. I've posted some questions about it over in the Design Forum (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26823) (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26823%29), but some of them probably are better addressed here.

The vanity will be mostly veneered plywood, with solid wood used for plain drawer fronts, and for rails/stiles on the Shaker style doors/cabinets (with ply for the rest of the face).

Here are some preferences:
Darker and less red/orange than cherry.
Reasonably obtainable here in the Boston area, both as a solid wood and as veneered ply.
Not too difficult to work with or to finish.
I realize that how dark it will be can be tuned by staining it, though I've heard that maple is tough to stain.

Would something like walnut or mahogany be good choices? I'm not too concerned about using a costlier wood (within reason) since there will not be that much solid wood in the piece.

Thanks for your help, and sorry of these are silly questions--I'm just starting out in this fine hobby.

-Rob

[Bob Winkler]

Hi Rob,

Looks like a fun project. I wish I could help more with the wood decision, but so much depends on you personal preference. I happen to love cherry because of it's look, machining, and availability. I wouldn't rule out staining the cherry to fit your exact taste. Also, keep in mind the "aged" brown cherry look after a little time.

But if the look you're after is a deep brown, then I think the walnut is a good choice. I checked my local source, and both the solid wood and plywood is in stock. I believe it also machines very well. My only concern is that I don't believe it can be lightened easily, so be sure of the dark brown look.

Honduras Mohagony is also available, but it is more expensive and like the cherry, I believe it would need to be stained to get your look. Plus, I usually stay away from imported woods if I can help it. Cherry and walnut would be domestically grown.

Hope this small amount of input helps. Good luck and I can't wait to see the finished product.;)

Bob

[Jamie Buxton]

...Reasonably obtainable here in the Boston area, both as a solid wood and as veneered ply....
-Rob

Obtainability can be a key issue. One can buy the six standard cabinet woods in almost any city in the country. However, in a city as big as Boston, you may be able to find lumber dealers which carry more choices. You might do well to first find your lumber source, and then see what it offers.

[Lars Thomas]

Based on your criteria (and aside from staining, toneing or dying). Looks like walnut may be your choice.

[scott spencer]

Lots of choices...birch, maple, ash, walnut, mahogany.

[Gail O'Rourke]

Rob, if you are going for a stain, then pick birch hardwood and ply, the prices are reasonable, even for cabinet grade ply and it takes a stain very nicely. If you don't want a stain, choose a wood that is the color you are looking for.

fyi: recent purchases of cherry/walnut ply were about $120 with bf hardwood anywhere from 4.50 to 7.00

cabinetgrade birch is about 70, with shop grade (good for interior) is about 45...bf hardwood aroud 4.00 maybe less.

good luck.

[Scott Parks]

Anather vote for stained birch. As I sit here in a hotel room, the armoire I'm staring at is cherry stained birch. It actually looks pretty darn good.. (except for the crooked doors)

[Mark Singer]

Walnut...just use oil...

[Rob Blaustein]

Walnut...just use oil...
I am leaning towards walnut. It seems to have a bit more pizzazz than birch. This may be a question for the Finishing Forum (boy, all these forum to keep track of), but is a plain oil finish ok for a bathroom? Would I need poly too?

[Chris Padilla]

Again, personal preference for the poly over oil. Do you have kids? I have a little girl...everything I do is usually some form of oil or easily repairable finish. Velvet Oil is my personal favorite...it is basically a wiping varnish.

[Rob Blaustein]

Do you have kids?
I will in about a month:).

[Jim Becker]

Walnut is wonderful. But do be aware it gets lighter over time, not darker!!

[Chris Padilla]

I will in about a month:).

Hidden Gloat! Hidden Gloat! Hidden Gloat! Rob's gonna be a Ta-Ta (Serbian for Daddy!). Congrats!

So, yeah, poly everything in site or make it easy to fix! :p

[Rob Blaustein]

Hidden Gloat! Hidden Gloat! Hidden Gloat! Rob's gonna be a Ta-Ta (Serbian for Daddy!). Congrats!

So, yeah, poly everything in site or make it easy to fix! :p
Thanks! And I gather that a photo must accompany a gloat--might have to wait a bit (no time to scan in the ultrasound right now).

I seem to remember that David Marks uses some home brew of BLO, tung oil, and poly--is that right? I think he's used it on walnut (what is that Claro walnut he keeps raving about?) but I'm not sure. Would something like that offer more protection than plain BLO? Does it take a long time to cure?

I probably don't have a problem with the walnut getting lighter over time--it wasn't the 'lightness' of cherry that I was trying to avoid, more the reddish tint. That said, is it easy to darken walnut with a stain if I do want to start darker?

Thanks everyone for your input.

[Mark Singer]

David Marks likes the General Finishes Seal a cell and then Armor Seal...
On woods it is better to use a dark wood rather than stain if you want to go dark...enhancing the color can be nice if it looks natural..

[Rob Blaustein]

David Marks likes the General Finishes Seal a cell and then Armor Seal...

Yes--and I just checked out David Marks's website. There's a discussion of these products there (http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/What_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_Linseed_Oil_Tung_Oil _and_Urethane_46687.asp). Have any of you used them?

[Mark Singer]

Yes,
I have tried them and they seem very good. Right now I am using Barley's Gel Varnish Satin and it is really a great product. The key is to just work a small area and wipe and buff lightly and then move on...work quickly so it doesn't get sticky...3 coats is a nice finish and it drys quickly...

The General finish will take longer