What would you do?

[David Harris]

I need to attach 2x4 studs or furring strips to a block chimney that was built in the 70's. it has mortar marks on it done with a trowel, like they would do in the 70's. I am in the process of covering it with various pieces of wood. I will need to add 2x4's, then add 3/8 plywood over the studs or furring strips for a nailer, then attach the wood to the outside of that. I have a 22 Cal. nailer to blast them in but I am concerned that it would break the blocks. best I can tell they are 4x6" blocks mortared in place. I still will use construction adhesive between the 2x4's and the mortar.

This is on the inside of the house not the outside.

[Jim Becker]

Drill into the mortar, install anchors and then screw/bolt the 2x material to the surface. You avoid any damage from firing the powder-fired fasteners. (I only use them on the floor or into concrete/cinder block walls)

[William Hodge]

Where I live, the code calls for a 2" setback from the chimney for all flammable materials. Apart from being legal, I have done this to try to do what the local fire department would like to see happen. Does this code applies to your situation?

[Lonnie Gallaher]

What Jim said. Any hammer drilling or shooting into the brick veneer of a fireplace will loosen the mortar joints and cause problems. Use a masonry drill bit with a regular drill motor (not a hammer drill) to drill the holes and install with a TapCon type anchor. Construction adhesive is always a good option.

[Doug Garson]

+1 on what Jim said. When I renovated our 120+ year old double brick house I insulated the walls by attaching 2x4's flat against the wall, added 1 1/2" rigid foam insulation, vapour barrier and drywall. I attached the 2x4's by drilling into the brick but instead of anchors I used cedar shims split to fit and pounded into the holes and then screws. Not sure if it met code (wood in contact with masonry) but it worked.

[Bill Dufour]

Fire code rules in this situation. Will the work be inspected by inspector or insurance person? If it burns down the insurance will be voided since it was a unsafe non code approved modification. You could be liable for it 50 years later.
Bill D

[Bill Carey]

If you are going floor to ceiling use top and bottom plates and don't attach to the block. Much easier to get it square and plumb using plates than shimming off the block. And you can turn the studs flat so you're only coming out 1 1/2 to 2".

[David Harris]

Thanks everyone. I'll check the fire codes. Drilling sounds like the way to go.

Dave

[Lisa Starr]

I'll second the top and bottom plate method. When we renovated our 1838 brick on brick home, we framed new interior walls this way to allow room for electrical and insulation. That will allow you to space it away from the actual chimney, letting you meet code and making a much safer installation.

[johnny means]

What Jim said. Any hammer drilling or shooting into the brick veneer of a fireplace will loosen the mortar joints and cause problems. Use a masonry drill bit with a regular drill motor (not a hammer drill) to drill the holes and install with a TapCon type anchor. Construction adhesive is always a good option.
I've watched many a newb run a perfectly good bit doing this.

[marlin adams]

Drill into the mortar, install anchors and then screw/bolt the 2x material to the surface. You avoid any damage from firing the powder-fired fasteners. (I only use them on the floor or into concrete/cinder block walls)

What jim said get a anchor kit but you might have to purchase longer screws than whats in the anchor kit.

[Bill McNiel]

I'll second the top and bottom plate method. When we renovated our 1838 brick on brick home, we framed new interior walls this way to allow room for electrical and insulation. That will allow you to space it away from the actual chimney, letting you meet code and making a much safer installation.

This is the "correct" approach IMHO. Around fireplaces I always us metal studs with a minimum 2" air gap for additional fire safety.

[Paul Girouard]

I’d agree with the studs on the flat attached to top and bottom plates with the 2” air gap.

[Jacob Reverb]

If you are going floor to ceiling use top and bottom plates and don't attach to the block. Much easier to get it square and plumb using plates than shimming off the block. And you can turn the studs flat so you're only coming out 1 1/2 to 2".

+1 Best way to do it.

[David Harris]

I am going with the plate method with studs to allow for "electrical, cable" wiring I will post before and after pics. This will meet the code regulations plus meet the look that we are going for. I will need to figure out the tile or framing surround but that is rather east to the build.

It will be awesome!

Thanks everyone.