Adhesive System for MDF

[Mark Blatter]

I am working on a project that will require gluing up boxes made from MDF. They will have dados and rabbits, and as this will be a commercial, and on-going venture, speed in assembly will be critical. My first thought was standard yellow glue, with staples. However after working on a few prototypes I am thinking that isn't going to work. Also the customer would rather not have the staple holes visible when done. I can fill them of course but still that adds a step and cost. I tried using hot melt glue and that may work, especially if I get an industrial grade gun. Not cheap at close to $1000 but as a one time investment for what should be years of revenue, well worth it.

Any other suggestions? I know there are many options out there but I have little experience with this area. The final products needs to be strong, relatively speaking, as the product is 100% MDF.

Thanks

[John TenEyck]

Have you looked at https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Adhesives-Tapes/Industrial-Adhesives-and-Tapes/Structural-Adhesives/PUR-Adhesive/?N=5002385+8710676+8710815+8710979+8711017+8713619 +3294857497&rt=r3

John

[Jim Becker]

I would probably use PVA glue and Confirmat screws countersunk with plugs if a lot of strength was needed or regular #8 screws of some length in pre-drilled and countersunk holes in the same manner. But since the glue does the most work, even brads or nails (slightly angled) can have the holes filled prior to finishing.

[Mark Blatter]

Thanks John and Jim. I don't have the time to use screws and while it would be nice to completely eliminate staples or brads, I don't think it is possible with MDF. In looking at the 3M system, I think the TE-100 is just about perfect. I believe that, combined with a few 2" brads or 1 1/2" staples will be perfect. The few holes I can fill with Seam Fill or a wood putty and it is ready for paint.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Mark Blatter]

Thanks John and Jim. I don't have the time to use screws and while it would be nice to completely eliminate staples or brads, I don't think it is possible with MDF. In looking at the 3M system, I think the TE-100 is just about perfect. I believe that, combined with a few 2" brads or 1 1/2" staples will be perfect. The few holes I can fill with Seam Fill or a wood putty and it is ready for paint.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Then I saw the price of the TE100 and back to searching again. I am going to try the Titebond Quick and Thick.

[johnny means]

High production shops often use dowel construction for quick case construction. They would typically use some types of boring machine or a CNC router. You would be surprised how fast you could bang out dowel jointer with a couple of accurate jigs, a drill, and a well planned work flow. This would give you plenty of strength and avoid the tedious work of filling any holes. It also allows for parts to be prefinished if wanted.

[Peter Kelly]

Seconding dowels. The Jessem jig is good and not terribly expensive. https://www.jessemdirect.com/JessEm_Dowelling_Jig_p/08350.htm

If you're looking to reduce cycle time with PVA glueups, you could go with a Wood Welder. Sets any water-based glue in seconds. http://workriteinc.com/003.html

[Bradley Gray]

Titebond makes a PUR glue gun - cordless but sits on a charging base and stays hot. 30 and 60 second set cartridges available.

We used one installing cement board lap siding to glue mitered corners. The glue set fast enough to just hold the pieces in place.

The gun was only $100 or so but the glue cartridges are kind of spendy but way faster than filling nail holes or setting clamps.

https://www.gluegun.com/products/titebond-1361-hipurformer-pur-glue-gun

[johnny means]

The strongest adhesion known to man means nothing when your MDF just splits.

[Andrew DiLorenzo]

A drop of super glue in the center of each joint. Then run a bead of wood glue on each side of that. Push joint together by hand for 15 seconds. The super glue acts as a clamp.