small gloat

[Gregg Mason]

I just received my new Incra 1000SE miter today. I got it from Amazon on sale for $95.00 and free shipping. Now it's $145.00 + shippping, a nice savings.

I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it seems solid.

Gregg

[Vaughn McMillan]

I have enjoyed my 1000SE. I use it almost daily, and it hasn't disappointed me yet. I think you'll be glad you bought it.

- Vaughn

[Dick Parr]

Nice score Gregg, I have had one and love it.:) But I sure didn't get if for that price,:( you are REALLY going to love it.:D

[John Gregory]

I got mine for the same price. I use it alot more now then I ever did my stock miter. I really like the 1000SE

[Jack Hogoboom]

I have one, but have never figured out how to use it properly. The measuring tape on top seems to bear no relation to where the stop is placed. Someday, the light bulb will go on and I'll figure it out....:confused:

Jack

[Vaughn McMillan]

Jack, the measuring tape scale is made to slide from side to side on the top of the fence to "zero" it for that particular setup, You can then use the edge of the stop as a reference to the scale. For example, if I adjust the fence to be 1/4" or so from the edge of the blade, I can move the stop to the point where it just touches the blade, then I slide the scale so that the 0" mark is right on the edge of the stop block. Thereafter (until you loosen the fence and slide it closer or farther away from the blade), that edge of the stop block will tell you how far the block is from the blade, and thus how long your cut piece will be.

More often than not, I don't use the scale, but instead measure and mark my first piece for length, then adjust the stop block to get that exact length (using the mark on the workpiece and the tip if the saw blade) for any other matched pieces. This is where the micro-adjust feature on the stop block comes in real handy. Once the stop block is adjusted and locked down, any subsequent cuts are that exact length.

I also added a sacrificial 3/4" BB ply fence to the face of the Incra (they even supply the extra bolts and nuts, and it also slides from side to side in the various t-slots), but the stop block can be re-positioned to reach "over" the extra 3/4" face thickness. Since the extra wooden fence allows me to have the aluminum fence itself a couple inches away from the blade, that means I'd need to slide the scale on the top over farther than there's track to slide it in. As a result, I really don't pay attention to the scale when I'm using the sacrificial fence, unless I happen to have the aluminum pretty close to the blade. Here again, once I get the first one right, the rest will follow, even without the scale. IMHO, the scale is the least necessary (and in my case, least used) feature of the 1000SE. But if I need to use it, it's there, and easy to "zero" out.

I hope this helps, but let me (er...us) know if you have any more questions.

- Vaughn

[Roy Wall]

Jack, the measuring tape scale is made to slide from side to side on the top of the fence to "zero" it for that particular setup, You can then use the edge of the stop as a reference to the scale. For example, if I adjust the fence to be 1/4" or so from the edge of the blade, I can move the stop to the point where it just touches the blade, then I slide the scale so that the 0" mark is right on the edge of the stop block. Thereafter (until you loosen the fence and slide it closer or farther away from the blade), that edge of the stop block will tell you how far the block is from the blade, and thus how long your cut piece will be.

More often than not, I don't use the scale, but instead measure and mark my first piece for length, then adjust the stop block to get that exact length (using the mark on the workpiece and the tip if the saw blade) for any other matched pieces. This is where the micro-adjust feature on the stop block comes in real handy. Once the stop block is adjusted and locked down, any subsequent cuts are that exact length.

I also added a sacrificial 3/4" BB ply fence to the face of the Incra (they even supply the extra bolts and nuts, and it also slides from side to side in the various t-slots), but the stop block can be re-positioned to reach "over" the extra 3/4" face thickness. Since the extra wooden fence allows me to have the aluminum fence itself a couple inches away from the blade, that means I'd need to slide the scale on the top over farther than there's track to slide it in. As a result, I really don't pay attention to the scale when I'm using the sacrificial fence, unless I happen to have the aluminum pretty close to the blade. Here again, once I get the first one right, the rest will follow, even without the scale. IMHO, the scale is the least necessary (and in my case, least used) feature of the 1000SE. But if I need to use it, it's there, and easy to "zero" out.

I hope this helps, but let me (er...us) know if you have any more questions.

- Vaughn

Perfect description Vaughn!! It's a technical issue...

Jack - yes, I stared at the guage for quite a while before my brain kicked in.....:confused: :p :)

[Gregg Mason]

Jack, the measuring tape scale is made to slide from side to side on the top of the fence to "zero" it for that particular setup, You can then use the edge of the stop as a reference to the scale. For example, if I adjust the fence to be 1/4" or so from the edge of the blade, I can move the stop to the point where it just touches the blade, then I slide the scale so that the 0" mark is right on the edge of the stop block. Thereafter (until you loosen the fence and slide it closer or farther away from the blade), that edge of the stop block will tell you how far the block is from the blade, and thus how long your cut piece will be.

More often than not, I don't use the scale, but instead measure and mark my first piece for length, then adjust the stop block to get that exact length (using the mark on the workpiece and the tip if the saw blade) for any other matched pieces. This is where the micro-adjust feature on the stop block comes in real handy. Once the stop block is adjusted and locked down, any subsequent cuts are that exact length.

I also added a sacrificial 3/4" BB ply fence to the face of the Incra (they even supply the extra bolts and nuts, and it also slides from side to side in the various t-slots), but the stop block can be re-positioned to reach "over" the extra 3/4" face thickness. Since the extra wooden fence allows me to have the aluminum fence itself a couple inches away from the blade, that means I'd need to slide the scale on the top over farther than there's track to slide it in. As a result, I really don't pay attention to the scale when I'm using the sacrificial fence, unless I happen to have the aluminum pretty close to the blade. Here again, once I get the first one right, the rest will follow, even without the scale. IMHO, the scale is the least necessary (and in my case, least used) feature of the 1000SE. But if I need to use it, it's there, and easy to "zero" out.

I hope this helps, but let me (er...us) know if you have any more questions.

- Vaughn

Vaughn,

Thanks for the nice explanation. I'm sure I would have been scratching my head too, when it came time to use the scale.

[Jack Hogoboom]

Vaughn,

Thanks for the attempt at an explanation. I'm going to print out your post, take it down to the shop and try to figure out what the heck you are talking about. I'm still waiting for the light to kick in over my head.

Thanks for trying....

Jack

[Vaughn McMillan]

Jack, lemme know if you need or want pics...

- Vaughn

[Gregg Mason]

Jack, lemme know if you need or want pics...

- Vaughn

If you get a chance to post pics, that would be great.

Thanks,

Gregg

[Vaughn McMillan]

If you get a chance to post pics, that would be great.

Thanks,

Gregg
May take a day or so, but I'll get some shots and post 'em.

- Vaughn

[Vaughn McMillan]

Here ya go, Gregg and Jack...these pics will hopefully explain what I was trying to describe. For these first shots, disregard the plywood “sacrificial” fence. I’ve adjusted things as if the extra wood wasn’t attached to the extruded fence. Also disregard the rip blade. I was planning to show off a new 80-tooth Freud crosscut blade, but I was in the midst of ripping up a bunch of wood, needed to do a couple crosscuts, and remembered to take a few pics, but didn’t want change blades for two cuts and a few photos.

This shot shows the edge of the extruded fence is set about 1/8” from the blade, and the stop block has been adjusted so it just barely clears the tips of the blade. We know that point as zero, regardless of what the scale on top of the fence says, but eventually we’ll use the right-hand edge of the stop block as the reference point for reading the scale. BTW, the electric plug is not just there for scale. These initial adjustments involve touching the blade...it’s just a reminder.

26848

The next shot shows the scale slid past the zero mark:

26849

And now with the scale “zeroed out” on the edge of the stop block:

26850

Now, simply use the location of the right-hand edge of the stop block along the fence scale to read the length of cut. Here’s the block set for a 12” cut:

26851

This works great unless you want to use the scale beyond the “main” fence. Even though there’s a scale on that part too, and there are surely ways to make use of it, I haven't used up any energy figuring it out. As I mentioned earlier, I seldom use the scale anyway, and instead usually cut one piece and make the others match.

I also usually set the aluminum fence a couple inches away from the blade, and use the sacrificial fence to support the workpiece at the blade. This is especially important for miter cuts. Unless you intend to cut the aluminum fence the match the miter (which I personally wouldn’t recommend). The Incra is nicely designed to hold the additional fence, and the wood face can be slid left and right just as the aluminum fence can. Here’s how I typically use it:

26853

You can see the angled cuts in the wood fence that have been made by previous miter cuts. (Obviously, the aluminum fence was slid farther to the left for those cuts, and the wood was farther to the right.) My sacrificial fence started out at maybe about 30” long, and as I chew up the end, I just loosen it up and trim it a bit shorter. As a side effect of using a long fence, I now tend to use the Incra instead of my crosscut sled for 90 degree "panel" cuts (such as cutting boards). It’s easier, and more accurate that my sled (which moved a bit and now needs a bit of adjusting).

Anyway, ask a tech writer a quick question; get a late-night book.

Hope this helps -

- Vaughn

[Gregg Mason]

Vaughn,

Thanks so much for taking the time to post pics and the write up. Very helpful. Hopefully I'll get some shop time on Monday to mount it up.

Gregg