Dan Mages
11-29-2005, 1:20 AM
Good evening all.
Sorry for not starting the basement thread just yet, but I promise to start it tomorrow night. Anyhow, I started the work with the installation of a new rear door to the basement. Man this was a pain in the rear!! I pulled out the old door to find the old frame completely rotted away. Welp, there goes Murphey's Law!! So I had to tear out the old frame, add a tripple beam of 2x8s on both sides and a new header. On top of that, I discovered that the outside patio is 1" higher than the basement floor. So I grabbed a 20 lbs bucket of quickcrete patch concrete and filled in the door area to bring it to the correct hight. Once this was done, The door went in easily and is dead nuts on. There are no fewer than 4 packs of shims and 3 cans of Great Stuff, holding this door in place. The door is also sitting on a bed of silicone caulk. I did not bother grabbing the calking gun, I just cut the sucker open and slathered a 3" wide, 1/4" deep bed of the stuff on the base of the door. I doubt anything will get through it!! This sucker is dead nuts on and will be a real PITA to rip out. I will feel sorry for the SOB that wants to do so!!
Now for the screw up. I forgot to compensate for the 1/2" drywall on the inside of the door that will span the 2x8s on both sides of the door. Oopsie! I also will have a 2x4 wall that needs to be framed up. In hind sight, being worth what it is, I would have done the final 2x8 as a 2x12" so the door will be flush with the inside of the wall and a recessed can on the outside for lighting. What is the best way to compensate for this mess up? Should I frame the walls so they are flush with the inside frame for the door? Add a 1/2" (or 1" to add 1/2" of expanded foam insulation) extension to the jamb and frame as I originally planned? Any other ways to fix this mess up?
Thanks!!
Dan
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/DanMages/Basement%20work/100_1005.jpg
Sorry for not starting the basement thread just yet, but I promise to start it tomorrow night. Anyhow, I started the work with the installation of a new rear door to the basement. Man this was a pain in the rear!! I pulled out the old door to find the old frame completely rotted away. Welp, there goes Murphey's Law!! So I had to tear out the old frame, add a tripple beam of 2x8s on both sides and a new header. On top of that, I discovered that the outside patio is 1" higher than the basement floor. So I grabbed a 20 lbs bucket of quickcrete patch concrete and filled in the door area to bring it to the correct hight. Once this was done, The door went in easily and is dead nuts on. There are no fewer than 4 packs of shims and 3 cans of Great Stuff, holding this door in place. The door is also sitting on a bed of silicone caulk. I did not bother grabbing the calking gun, I just cut the sucker open and slathered a 3" wide, 1/4" deep bed of the stuff on the base of the door. I doubt anything will get through it!! This sucker is dead nuts on and will be a real PITA to rip out. I will feel sorry for the SOB that wants to do so!!
Now for the screw up. I forgot to compensate for the 1/2" drywall on the inside of the door that will span the 2x8s on both sides of the door. Oopsie! I also will have a 2x4 wall that needs to be framed up. In hind sight, being worth what it is, I would have done the final 2x8 as a 2x12" so the door will be flush with the inside of the wall and a recessed can on the outside for lighting. What is the best way to compensate for this mess up? Should I frame the walls so they are flush with the inside frame for the door? Add a 1/2" (or 1" to add 1/2" of expanded foam insulation) extension to the jamb and frame as I originally planned? Any other ways to fix this mess up?
Thanks!!
Dan
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/DanMages/Basement%20work/100_1005.jpg