Alan Marr
10-30-2018, 9:11 PM
I have designed a table saw top for the used table saw I got and would like to read feedback on it and maybe a question answered. (My first post)
The saw is an ancient Delta 10 inch (13A 110V) with plastic base and a 26 x 16 top so old that the mitre tracks are 5/8 wide, not 3/4. But the main strike against it is the flimsy metal fence. My big project, I am gearing up to, is making a modular box system with many boxes (about 15 inch cubes with 1x2s and 1/4" plywood).
I have very limited workspace; 6 x 8 feet dominated by workbench 6 ft x 26 inches (I store most stuff outside of the workspace). I don't have metalworking skills or tools. And I don't have a big budget.
My design motivations are:
- proper mitre track channels
- robust, fast, adjustable, safe fence
- accurate for 16th inch dimensioned work, so means +/- 1/32 or better.
- fit under the bench so one dimension less than 26 inches
- readily available materials:
- 3/4 plywood (6 ply)
- BusyBee / Lee Valley parts
Design Notes:
The table top is basically 26 x 36 inches. It will fit directly on the existing metal sawtop and be secured underneath by screw down swing tabs or better. About 2 inches of saw blade would protrude above the table. The mitre tracks would be glued in with Gorilla glue, and I believe there would be sufficient bracing under the plywood to maintain all the flatness needed.
The fence is secured against the front by a floating pressure block that is pressed on by cam lever. The fence is pulled tight against the table at the back by force transmitted through the fence and dowel. The dowel should be metal, I think, and there are two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood transmitting force through the fence. Note: When the fence is clamped, only the back runner takes force, not the front runner.
The faces of the runners front and back are 1/4" UHMW Polyethylene or equivalent. The rear runner would pivot on a dowel/rod that would allow the fence angle relative to the saw to be adjusted from the front.
The front runner is adjustable left and right on the fence with two captive knurled knobs (not illustrated) that push from two blocks attached to the fence. This allows making the travel as tight or loose as desired, but it also allows the fence to be adjusted parallel to the saw blade (or with fractional (say 1/64) veer away from the blade at the rear end of the fence). The front runner can be adjustable because it doesn't receive force.
The fence is removable. There is a 24 inch T-track on top of the left face of the fence. Clamp lever is Lee Valley but could be wood.
Feedback?
Questions
1. What should the fence height be? Currently I'm thinking 4 inches left and 3 inches right.
2. Could the design for the top(s) of the fence be improved?
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395784395785395786
The saw is an ancient Delta 10 inch (13A 110V) with plastic base and a 26 x 16 top so old that the mitre tracks are 5/8 wide, not 3/4. But the main strike against it is the flimsy metal fence. My big project, I am gearing up to, is making a modular box system with many boxes (about 15 inch cubes with 1x2s and 1/4" plywood).
I have very limited workspace; 6 x 8 feet dominated by workbench 6 ft x 26 inches (I store most stuff outside of the workspace). I don't have metalworking skills or tools. And I don't have a big budget.
My design motivations are:
- proper mitre track channels
- robust, fast, adjustable, safe fence
- accurate for 16th inch dimensioned work, so means +/- 1/32 or better.
- fit under the bench so one dimension less than 26 inches
- readily available materials:
- 3/4 plywood (6 ply)
- BusyBee / Lee Valley parts
Design Notes:
The table top is basically 26 x 36 inches. It will fit directly on the existing metal sawtop and be secured underneath by screw down swing tabs or better. About 2 inches of saw blade would protrude above the table. The mitre tracks would be glued in with Gorilla glue, and I believe there would be sufficient bracing under the plywood to maintain all the flatness needed.
The fence is secured against the front by a floating pressure block that is pressed on by cam lever. The fence is pulled tight against the table at the back by force transmitted through the fence and dowel. The dowel should be metal, I think, and there are two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood transmitting force through the fence. Note: When the fence is clamped, only the back runner takes force, not the front runner.
The faces of the runners front and back are 1/4" UHMW Polyethylene or equivalent. The rear runner would pivot on a dowel/rod that would allow the fence angle relative to the saw to be adjusted from the front.
The front runner is adjustable left and right on the fence with two captive knurled knobs (not illustrated) that push from two blocks attached to the fence. This allows making the travel as tight or loose as desired, but it also allows the fence to be adjusted parallel to the saw blade (or with fractional (say 1/64) veer away from the blade at the rear end of the fence). The front runner can be adjustable because it doesn't receive force.
The fence is removable. There is a 24 inch T-track on top of the left face of the fence. Clamp lever is Lee Valley but could be wood.
Feedback?
Questions
1. What should the fence height be? Currently I'm thinking 4 inches left and 3 inches right.
2. Could the design for the top(s) of the fence be improved?
--
395784395785395786